posted 12-15-2010 08:39 PM ET (US)        

Anyway, my 40 does not have power tilt and trim, so as usual I got a good footing, put all my muscle into it and tilted it up, lock the assist tilt lever in the up position to put the ear muffs on. As I let it down, I eased the tilt lever so I could leave it slightly tilted (leaving it slightly tilted helps save the back as I was going to tilt it up again to remove the ear muffs after I ran it). As it went down something made a click sound that I never noticed before.

When I went to tilt it up, I grabbed the cowling/engine cover handle and put some pull on it and released the tilt lever. The tilt lever did not have any tension on it like normal. I continued to tilt the engine up with a good bit of effort, it started to tilt then POP the cowling came off! I fell back hard on my arse, landing on the helm seat, and trying to hold onto the cowling best I could. Unfortunately I could not and the cowling went overboard. Off course the cowling did not float, but the tide was pretty low and the water clear so I was able to fish it out with my boat hook.

I was shocked the cowling came off like that, ticked it was at the bottom of the canal but, glad l I did not really hurt myself. I flushed the cowling/cover to remove the saltwater and canal muck with a hose and then in a large Rubbermaid bin. I used the rubber maid bin as a make shift cover to keep the morning dew and rain out while the insulation inside the cowling dries out.
The latches for the cowling were all down, the metal catch on the cowling may be slightly bent.

So I went to try to lift the engine again and nothing, only budges slightly. I can not tilt it up at all. Kinda bummed as I have some time off coming up and wanted to use the Whaler. Any suggestions on how to fix this while still on the lift? I will not be able to get the Whaler on the trailer with the engine locked down. I remember on my previous Whaler there was screw to release the pressure to lower it if the the trim pump failed.I looked around the best I could from inside the boat (on the lift) but did not see any on the 40 horse.

posted 12-15-2010 09:10 PM ET (US)            

Being that your engine is a 1993, most likely the pivot joint has rusted do to age and the fact that the engine lives in a salt water environment. Break out your can of WD40, CRC or any other brand of pentrating oil and give the pivot location a spritz... allow the spray to soak in over night and then spray it again the next day. Follow up with 90w gear oil. With time and some assistance by you, it should start to move a bit.

I have a 1984 90hp Johnson without power trim and tilt, the pivot tube gave me trouble 15 years ago. I gave it the lubrication treatment outlined above. Over time it got much easier to tilt, but has never returned to like new. To keep it that way I spray and oil it twice a year. Sorry to say, I don't believe your engine will ever be as easy to tilt as she was in her younger days.

Best of luck,

posted 12-15-2010 10:48 PM ET (US)            

Right now I am trying to wrap my head around this exploded view to figure out where a spring could be for the tilt assist.
The only place I see is #29 listed as "Lever Ay. Tilt Assist." A $42.47 part. Not that bad if that is all it takes. Just not very clear to me and I want to be certain before I order a part.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5265350910_6fa757f32c_o.png

posted 12-16-2010 08:04 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for the offer contender. Should be good, but I will shoot you an email.

I have been meaning to get to Superior to look for a tach anyway Russ.
BTW, I have not seen you out in Estero bay, been looking for that 13 with the poling platform.

I will take a closer look at it this weekend, but I think Nick called. I actually did not mind the manual tilt with the lever design. It is simple and functional... well not now that I broke it. Especially at $400. Not cheap. Would rather of had a PTnT. I recently had to sink $400 into the engine for a lower unit rebuild and a prop reconditioning. Previous owner ran it with a dinged up prop and wore the bearing carrier causing a lower unit leak. So I am resistant to put any more money into the Johnson.

My big issue may be if it is stuck in the down position, how do I get it on the trailer? I do not have enI may have to get in the canal at low tide (I will be able to stand knee deep or less) to try to unlock it/disassemble it.

I have been seriously considering a Bob's Hydraulic Jake Plate due to the area I live in. In the winter months, when it is shallow and a fast moving tide, a jack plate will let me make headway much easier with a level but elevated engine. If my engine is un able to tilt, I think I may go this route until I re power in a year or two. This way I do not have to invest anymore into it. I can live without reverse lock, I have left it off many times and as long as I do not gas it hard in reverse I will be fine.

It may be time to just pull the trigger on a re power with jack plate anyway. But then I have the dilemma of choosing between a 60 E-TEC or F70!

Good news I should be able to use it as is, if I leave/return while the tide is high and I stay in the channel like Nick mentioned. So hopefully it will not ruin my next two weeks of vacation time.

posted 12-20-2010 09:07 PM ET (US)            

I think it is good news...

The tilt lever shown here does not work:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5278817748_523c4a5543_b.jpg

It made a click then stopped working. The click sound appears to have been the connector on the backside of the tilt lever breaking. In this photo you can see the broken connector and the broken piece laying there.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5278209621_f33762c313_b.jpg

Now did it click because something in the manual hydraulic unit failed and then I pushed it too hard? Or did just the connector fail? The hard part is that the engine is stuck down. Not sure if I can get in there to release it to lift the engine up to replace the connector. That is my next challenge.

The part I need is listed as $7.20 ~ #48 (48 0334153) "SHELL, Tilt assist cable" on the above exploded view.

Hope to fix it in the next few days and see you out on Estero Bay Russ.

posted 12-22-2010 06:18 PM ET (US)            

I had the same T&T failure several times on our early 90's 40 VRO (79 13 sport). The cable that operates the T&T system is much like a cable on a 10 Spd bicycle. It goes from the back of the "tilt lever" and at the other end it pulls a hydraulic release valve. Our recurring problem was salt water intrusion of the cable, corrosion, resistance, and failure. The plastic piece broke because the inside of the cable is corroded or frozen (you might be lucky and only the plastic piece behind the "tilt lever" is broken but I wouldn't hold my breath).

To release the T&T, follow the cable to T&T end, pop it out of its cradle while leaveing the ball in the valve and pull (might take some grunt). Might be hard to do on a lift.

I remember those cables costing $250+/- 10 years ago, no telling what they cost now.

I know there are some defenders of the faith when it comes to the Johnson vros of the early 90's but this manual T&T deisgn for saltwater was absoultely "craptastic" and cost me many an hour on the water (I had it fail in the up position as well). We cussed ourselves for not getting power T&T. Don't even get me started on the oiling systems.

posted 12-22-2010 06:28 PM ET (US)            

Part #48 is broken. work it from that end.

posted 12-23-2010 06:51 PM ET (US)            

I picked up the plastic piece (#48) from my OMC dealer for $6.

This afternoon I tried to work it for almost an hour, it was very frustrating.
I just do not have enough room to get in there and I can not get seem to get a good angle from inside the Whaler (I may not be able to get it from outside the Whaler either). I tried to put a heavy string on the end and pull it, but no luck. I think a pair of very long needle nose vice grips would work, mine are too short and the tips too wide. Not even sure if they make longer/thinner vice grips than I have. Even if I can grip the end of the cable, will I be able to pull it hard enough to release the valve?

After giving up, I went for a short ride on the Whaler right before sunset just to remind myself it is worth the effort.

posted 12-30-2010 10:53 AM ET (US)            

There is still very little room to access the broken connector part. The engine will tilt up about an inch, that may be just enough to get my hand in the tight space to unscrew the broken plastic connector at the end of the cable and screw the new one on. I just need to secure the engine up really well so it does not crush my hand.

If I still cannot get enough room/access, would I be able to remove the tilt position bolt? If so would it allow me to just lift the engine and the hydraulic assembly? Or is that a bad idea? Would I not be able to get it back if the the tilt unlocked (released the piston)?

Here is a photo with a red circle around the tilt position bolt I am thinking about removing.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5005/5306278907_8fe1b5d1da_b.jpg

Thanks,
James

posted 12-31-2010 09:51 AM ET (US)            

quote:

---

if I attempt to remover the tilt/trim position bolt I won't be able to or I will never get it back in? It looks like with that bolt removed the whole assembly will tilt up. Then I would need to secure it up and have access to the cable with the broken connector.

---

Your motor has a latch to keep it tilted all the way up for servicing.

posted 01-01-2011 12:54 PM ET (US)            

I tried to remove the tilt adjustment pin/bolt, but no luck. After a while of spraying and tapping I gave up. It is frozen and will not budge.

I used my floor jack to jack up the engine as much as it would go (about an inch and a half). Then put an old transom saver I had laying around in place to secure the engine from falling (that inch and half) and prevent my hand from being crushed when I inserted it under the engine. This gave just enough clearance. I used a thin piece of rope tied to the end of the cable that I pulled and worked so I could access the cable end. It took some force(maybe too much), but I got it.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5312287489_d0798bca14_z.jpg

The $6 part next to the broken one at the end of the cable.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5312289017_25fbedcc1c_z.jpg

Unfortunately I broke another plastic part on the $80 cable when I pulled on it so hard.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5286/5312293019_d4b6431efd_z.jpg

I then used two vise grips to pull on the cable and release the hydraulic assist. Now I am able to tilt it up and have full access to underside of the engine! I will pick up a new cable this week and hope to be back out on the water next weekend!