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Author Topic:   Installing New Wires In Rigging Tunnel

solongdarling posted 03-25-2011 07:37 AM ET (US)
[Seeks] advice on how best to fish [a new] cable through the tunnel to the console on my Montauk. I am replacing [a cable].
jimh posted 03-25-2011 08:00 AM ET (US)
An easy way to install a new cable into the rigging tunnel when replacing an existing cable in the rigging tunnel is to use the existing cable to pull the new cable through the tunnel, or, use the existing cable to pull a new pull rope into the rigging tunnel, making the length of the pull rope twice as long as the distance in the rigging tunnel, then using the new pull rope to pull in the new cable.
twickenham posted 03-25-2011 08:34 AM ET (US)
Adding to JimH's response...I recommend that when you pull the new wire through, you also pull a second cord along side, which remains in the tunnel, tied at both ends to avoid slippage. Next time you need to replace a wire, you already have a pull-through cord in place.
jimh posted 03-25-2011 11:55 AM ET (US)
You do not need a second wire if the pull wire is twice the length of the tunnel.
contender posted 03-25-2011 01:34 PM ET (US)
Second what twickham stated: Jim, I think he means to leave the rope in the tunnel for a future application...
leadsled posted 03-25-2011 01:45 PM ET (US)
I used to keep an old control cable around to use it to snake through.
Tom W Clark posted 03-25-2011 02:01 PM ET (US)
You will often read the advice to leave an extra "pull cord" in the tunnel for future use. I think this is not a good idea.
I have bought used Whalers that had an old cord left for pulling cables and wires. The extra cord is always disgustingly filthy and tangled around everything else down there. Adding to the tunnel congestion is not helpful as it helps hold dirt restricts drainage and leads to more confusion in the future about what all that mess really is.
Furthermore, the cord has to be secured at both ends to something because if one end gets pulled into the tunnel over time, it is of no use.
It is a trivial matter to pull any new cable or wire through the tunnel of a Montauk by simply fishing an electrician's fish-tape or other similar tool down the tunnel, securing the end of the cable or wire you want to pull to it, then pulling it all through the tunnel again.
If you do not own a fish-tape just use a tape measure. A tape measure with a 3/4" or 1" wide blade works quite well. You can also use a plumber's snake or any other semi-rigid length. Even a garden hose will work if there is not already too much crap pulled through the tunnel already.
andygere posted 03-25-2011 02:15 PM ET (US)
If I am replacing a device such as a sonar transducer, I tie my pull string to the old cable when I'm removing it, then use the pull string to pull the new cable through the tunnel. I don't leave it in the tunnel, and agree with Tom that it's not a terribly useful thing to do. What I have found is that weed whacker line (super heavy monofiliment) really works great as a pull string. It doesn't stretch much, it's slippery, and it's heavy enough that it doesn't cut your hands as you work your cable through the tunnel. I usually enlist some help, and use the tug-o-war method to pull the new cable through. By keeping tension on the new cable, it lifts off the bottom of the rigging tunnel and avoids wedging in between existing hoses and cables. If it does, the helper backs it out and it can usually be navigated through.
I join the cable to the pull string with electrical tape, and try to taper the joint so it's less likely to get hung up. A little dish soap on the tape covered plug end (is anyone else annoyed at how large these plugs are now?) helps things slide along.
If it's a new cable or hose, I use my fish tape to draw my pull string through the tunnel, then use the string to pull the electrical cable through. I've had difficulty pulling cables directly with the fish tape due to it's stiffness and tendency to coil. It's much harder to tell when you are hung up with the steel tape than with the weed whacker line.
L H G posted 03-25-2011 02:49 PM ET (US)
I agree with Tom on the bad idea of an old cord in the tunnel of any Whaler.
I use an old Teleflex throttle/shift cable. It is stiff enough and is easy to feed in with a wire, etc, taped to it.
For the steering cable this person is asking about, usually a fish is not needed, as the steering cable is heavy enough to just push through. It should be done from the stern, so that the straight ram end does not have to go through the tunnel. New cables come with a protective tube over the exposed cable that feeds into the helm. Tape it in place first so it won't come off, and pull the ram end all the way out first, to shorten the exposed helm end.
contender posted 03-25-2011 04:50 PM ET (US)
Well If you really want to do it correctly, 1st the tunnel should be empty (void of anything) clean it out, you will be surprise what finds its way into the tunnel. Then all wires, cables should be laid out from the rear tunnel of the boat to be pulled forward through the tunnel. The cables, electrical connections, should be made at one end first, (I made all of my connections at the engine first) Then pulled the slack forward. Route your wires and cables to your console as needed and make the connections (extra slack can be trimmed) I used a spiral wire loom from the entrance of the rear tunnel to the connection on the engine. I also used a smaller size wire loom under the console to hold the wires in place and to keep them neet. By doing this I can pull out any wire, cable(to replace) with out it getting tangled with the others in the tunnel. By having the wires loomed at the ends it also makes it easy to pull/push another wire through if I want. If you plan things out and think about what you are doing you only have to do it once (unless it breaks). I also like the wire loom because it protects the wires and cables from the sun also....Take care
kwik_wurk posted 03-25-2011 06:23 PM ET (US)
I use a ~1.5" OD thin wall plastic piping from Home Depot/Lowes. It is rigid enough to push against, flexible enough to bend, and has a cone put on the tip so it doesn't catch wires/cables. -- I have a pre-run piece of rope and it takes a seconds to get ready, and can run cable in a couple minutes.
It's about 8' long and flexible enough to slide under the forward lip of the console, and yet in dip into the tunnel. (The only draw back is I typically have to pull cable aft to forward, otherwise it is like a mind bender puzzle trying to get the wiring through and be able to pull the tube out.)
Granted, you likely don't need this if you have one boat, but I take care of several boats and use at least once per season.
modenacart posted 03-25-2011 06:36 PM ET (US)
I just use my toilet snake. Tape it to the snake and shove it through.
jimh posted 03-25-2011 08:53 PM ET (US)
My pull cord is a length of 16-AWG marine wire. It is not likely to deteriorate at a significantly different rate than any of the other similarly covered wires or cable in the tunnel. Nor would a length of polypropylene rope.

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Author	Topic: Installing New Wires In Rigging Tunnel
solongdarling	posted 03-25-2011 07:37 AM ET (US) [Seeks] advice on how best to fish [a new] cable through the tunnel to the console on my Montauk. I am replacing [a cable].
jimh	posted 03-25-2011 08:00 AM ET (US) An easy way to install a new cable into the rigging tunnel when replacing an existing cable in the rigging tunnel is to use the existing cable to pull the new cable through the tunnel, or, use the existing cable to pull a new pull rope into the rigging tunnel, making the length of the pull rope twice as long as the distance in the rigging tunnel, then using the new pull rope to pull in the new cable.
twickenham	posted 03-25-2011 08:34 AM ET (US) Adding to JimH's response...I recommend that when you pull the new wire through, you also pull a second cord along side, which remains in the tunnel, tied at both ends to avoid slippage. Next time you need to replace a wire, you already have a pull-through cord in place.
jimh	posted 03-25-2011 11:55 AM ET (US) You do not need a second wire if the pull wire is twice the length of the tunnel.
contender	posted 03-25-2011 01:34 PM ET (US) Second what twickham stated: Jim, I think he means to leave the rope in the tunnel for a future application...
leadsled	posted 03-25-2011 01:45 PM ET (US) I used to keep an old control cable around to use it to snake through.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-25-2011 02:01 PM ET (US) You will often read the advice to leave an extra "pull cord" in the tunnel for future use. I think this is not a good idea. I have bought used Whalers that had an old cord left for pulling cables and wires. The extra cord is always disgustingly filthy and tangled around everything else down there. Adding to the tunnel congestion is not helpful as it helps hold dirt restricts drainage and leads to more confusion in the future about what all that mess really is. Furthermore, the cord has to be secured at both ends to something because if one end gets pulled into the tunnel over time, it is of no use. It is a trivial matter to pull any new cable or wire through the tunnel of a Montauk by simply fishing an electrician's fish-tape or other similar tool down the tunnel, securing the end of the cable or wire you want to pull to it, then pulling it all through the tunnel again. If you do not own a fish-tape just use a tape measure. A tape measure with a 3/4" or 1" wide blade works quite well. You can also use a plumber's snake or any other semi-rigid length. Even a garden hose will work if there is not already too much crap pulled through the tunnel already.
andygere	posted 03-25-2011 02:15 PM ET (US) If I am replacing a device such as a sonar transducer, I tie my pull string to the old cable when I'm removing it, then use the pull string to pull the new cable through the tunnel. I don't leave it in the tunnel, and agree with Tom that it's not a terribly useful thing to do. What I have found is that weed whacker line (super heavy monofiliment) really works great as a pull string. It doesn't stretch much, it's slippery, and it's heavy enough that it doesn't cut your hands as you work your cable through the tunnel. I usually enlist some help, and use the tug-o-war method to pull the new cable through. By keeping tension on the new cable, it lifts off the bottom of the rigging tunnel and avoids wedging in between existing hoses and cables. If it does, the helper backs it out and it can usually be navigated through. I join the cable to the pull string with electrical tape, and try to taper the joint so it's less likely to get hung up. A little dish soap on the tape covered plug end (is anyone else annoyed at how large these plugs are now?) helps things slide along. If it's a new cable or hose, I use my fish tape to draw my pull string through the tunnel, then use the string to pull the electrical cable through. I've had difficulty pulling cables directly with the fish tape due to it's stiffness and tendency to coil. It's much harder to tell when you are hung up with the steel tape than with the weed whacker line.
L H G	posted 03-25-2011 02:49 PM ET (US) I agree with Tom on the bad idea of an old cord in the tunnel of any Whaler. I use an old Teleflex throttle/shift cable. It is stiff enough and is easy to feed in with a wire, etc, taped to it. For the steering cable this person is asking about, usually a fish is not needed, as the steering cable is heavy enough to just push through. It should be done from the stern, so that the straight ram end does not have to go through the tunnel. New cables come with a protective tube over the exposed cable that feeds into the helm. Tape it in place first so it won't come off, and pull the ram end all the way out first, to shorten the exposed helm end.
contender	posted 03-25-2011 04:50 PM ET (US) Well If you really want to do it correctly, 1st the tunnel should be empty (void of anything) clean it out, you will be surprise what finds its way into the tunnel. Then all wires, cables should be laid out from the rear tunnel of the boat to be pulled forward through the tunnel. The cables, electrical connections, should be made at one end first, (I made all of my connections at the engine first) Then pulled the slack forward. Route your wires and cables to your console as needed and make the connections (extra slack can be trimmed) I used a spiral wire loom from the entrance of the rear tunnel to the connection on the engine. I also used a smaller size wire loom under the console to hold the wires in place and to keep them neet. By doing this I can pull out any wire, cable(to replace) with out it getting tangled with the others in the tunnel. By having the wires loomed at the ends it also makes it easy to pull/push another wire through if I want. If you plan things out and think about what you are doing you only have to do it once (unless it breaks). I also like the wire loom because it protects the wires and cables from the sun also....Take care
kwik_wurk	posted 03-25-2011 06:23 PM ET (US) I use a ~1.5" OD thin wall plastic piping from Home Depot/Lowes. It is rigid enough to push against, flexible enough to bend, and has a cone put on the tip so it doesn't catch wires/cables. -- I have a pre-run piece of rope and it takes a seconds to get ready, and can run cable in a couple minutes. It's about 8' long and flexible enough to slide under the forward lip of the console, and yet in dip into the tunnel. (The only draw back is I typically have to pull cable aft to forward, otherwise it is like a mind bender puzzle trying to get the wiring through and be able to pull the tube out.) Granted, you likely don't need this if you have one boat, but I take care of several boats and use at least once per season.
modenacart	posted 03-25-2011 06:36 PM ET (US) I just use my toilet snake. Tape it to the snake and shove it through.
jimh	posted 03-25-2011 08:53 PM ET (US) My pull cord is a length of 16-AWG marine wire. It is not likely to deteriorate at a significantly different rate than any of the other similarly covered wires or cable in the tunnel. Nor would a length of polypropylene rope.