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Author Topic:   Dauntless 160 Console Improvements

John McBride posted 04-04-2011 10:43 PM ET (US)
I have been trying to get my "hole in the water" in top shape before the season starts in earnest. I pulled all the moldy PFDs from the center console and sprayed some chlorine around to get it all clean in there.
During the rinse off, I accidentally sprayed water on deck in front of the console and found that there is no weather seal to keep water from running into the console and into the depressed well under the console! No wonder it always seems damp in there. I think I will try to seal it up better (3M 5200) from the inside; does anyone have experience dealing with this or should I simply expect not to have dry storage in a small whaler? Also, drainage from the well within the console is slow and dirt can accumulate there.
I also found a nice starboard glove box on ebay that has an O-ring seal (although not advertised as water proof) and installed it below the steering wheel. This thing is really nice for wallet/phone/car keys and has kept the water out nicely.
After some debate, I went ahead and pulled out the recessed VHF from the dash and put a nice Sony splash-proof CD player in. I have a handheld VHF and have never used the one I uninstalled.
The hard part was deciding to cut holes for speakers; I thought I might mount them in the gunnels amidships where the port side has an inspection port. I couldn't get anywhere with my snake so I ended up putting them in the kick panel below the stern seats. I hate cutting up fine boats but maybe I'll do penance by filling and gelcoating the holes on the console where the VHF antenna and mic clip used to be. I want to keep the boat forever and I hate seeing older boats with swiss cheese dash panels going back 6 generations of electronics.

Jefecinco posted 04-05-2011 10:32 AM ET (US)
John,
First, do not use 3M 5200 as a sealant. It is a very strong and difficult to remove adhesive. Second, I believe your Dauntless is better off without sealing the console. On my Dauntless 16 there was a dam inside the front of the console to keep large amounts of water from entering from the front and it also served for an attachment point for the front console mounting screws.
The advantage of the "ventilated" console is to help water in the bilge spaces around the fuel tank to evaporate and to allow the gasoline smell to be less obvious. I never had mold in my console but I didn't store PFDs or anything else in it except the batteries. I used the RPS for all that stuff. If you clean it well and include it in your wash and rinse routine you should not have a mold problem.
Butch
John McBride posted 04-05-2011 11:04 PM ET (US)
Thanks Butch. I'll take a long hard look before sealing anything and if I do so, I'll use something less permanent.
I had another Dauntless 16 and the fuel odor in the console was always strong but I could never find a reason for it.
Russ 13 posted 04-06-2011 12:48 PM ET (US)
Although slightly off topic, how does the ride in the Dauntless compare to the classic hulls, does the Dauntless have a V hull shape?
Jefecinco posted 04-06-2011 06:38 PM ET (US)
Russ,
The 16, or later 160, Dauntless would be classified as a semi-V hull with a fairly sharp entry forward tapering back to a semi-V shape at the transom.
It rides well but in a chop it is sensitive to trim adjustment. It is normally seen with a 90 or 115 HP engine for power. IMO the 115 HP engine on the 16 Dauntless provides for a much more satisfactory boat/engine combination and the trim can be adjusted to handle most conditions. With the 115 HP engine I believe it can maintain plane at lower speeds than with a 90 HP engine. Use of a four blade propeller such as the Stiletto Bay I allows for an even slower planing speed which can be a significant advantage in a chop. Sometimes you just have to slow down unless your fillings are mounted in epoxy.
Use of trim tabs on the hull may be very beneficial but I've not heard of anyone using them on this relatively small boat.
It is an excellent boat for almost all purposes.
Butch
davej14 posted 04-06-2011 08:47 PM ET (US)
I lined the floor of my console and the rps with dry-deck. Keeps everything up about a half inch and allows for any water to flow under the contents. I did cut of the dry-deck in the console to allow the battery to sit directly on the floor.
John McBride posted 04-06-2011 09:40 PM ET (US)
The D16 is a bit nicer in the chop but has more wave steer. It takes a lot more time to get on plane but I think it is worth the trade off over a classic tri hull. The boat is noticeably heavier to tow than a 17' classic hull and longer to get on plane.
I have a 4s 90 hp and it is MUCH better than the 2 s 90 hp version for some reason. Top speed with two aboard is 43 mph. Factory charts show a slightly better top end but I enjoy the economy.
Jefecinco posted 04-07-2011 09:58 AM ET (US)
John,
I agree with Dave's recommendation of dry deck. It's very helpful in both the console and RPS.
If you have not yet tried a good four blade propeller on your 160 I suggest you consider it. When I changed to a four blade on mine hole shot was so improved that it was shocking. Top end was dialed down by perhaps two MPH but the trade off was good value.
I switched to a Stiletto Bay I 13 1/4 X 15 on the advice of Tom Clark but I was using a 115 HP FICHT so that is probably not the optimum four blade for your 90 HP four stroke. If you are interested check with Tom. He'll know what propeller would meet any of your needs.
Butch
John McBride posted 04-07-2011 06:44 PM ET (US)
Butch,
I had a prior thread on my performance. With the foil I use, stainless prop, etc. the hole shot is fine and top speed is probably optimum given the power, weight, etc.
Unless I manage to destroy this prop I don't see spending that kind of money for an improved hole shot.
John

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Author	Topic: Dauntless 160 Console Improvements
John McBride	posted 04-04-2011 10:43 PM ET (US) I have been trying to get my "hole in the water" in top shape before the season starts in earnest. I pulled all the moldy PFDs from the center console and sprayed some chlorine around to get it all clean in there. During the rinse off, I accidentally sprayed water on deck in front of the console and found that there is no weather seal to keep water from running into the console and into the depressed well under the console! No wonder it always seems damp in there. I think I will try to seal it up better (3M 5200) from the inside; does anyone have experience dealing with this or should I simply expect not to have dry storage in a small whaler? Also, drainage from the well within the console is slow and dirt can accumulate there. I also found a nice starboard glove box on ebay that has an O-ring seal (although not advertised as water proof) and installed it below the steering wheel. This thing is really nice for wallet/phone/car keys and has kept the water out nicely. After some debate, I went ahead and pulled out the recessed VHF from the dash and put a nice Sony splash-proof CD player in. I have a handheld VHF and have never used the one I uninstalled. The hard part was deciding to cut holes for speakers; I thought I might mount them in the gunnels amidships where the port side has an inspection port. I couldn't get anywhere with my snake so I ended up putting them in the kick panel below the stern seats. I hate cutting up fine boats but maybe I'll do penance by filling and gelcoating the holes on the console where the VHF antenna and mic clip used to be. I want to keep the boat forever and I hate seeing older boats with swiss cheese dash panels going back 6 generations of electronics.
Jefecinco	posted 04-05-2011 10:32 AM ET (US) John, First, do not use 3M 5200 as a sealant. It is a very strong and difficult to remove adhesive. Second, I believe your Dauntless is better off without sealing the console. On my Dauntless 16 there was a dam inside the front of the console to keep large amounts of water from entering from the front and it also served for an attachment point for the front console mounting screws. The advantage of the "ventilated" console is to help water in the bilge spaces around the fuel tank to evaporate and to allow the gasoline smell to be less obvious. I never had mold in my console but I didn't store PFDs or anything else in it except the batteries. I used the RPS for all that stuff. If you clean it well and include it in your wash and rinse routine you should not have a mold problem. Butch
John McBride	posted 04-05-2011 11:04 PM ET (US) Thanks Butch. I'll take a long hard look before sealing anything and if I do so, I'll use something less permanent. I had another Dauntless 16 and the fuel odor in the console was always strong but I could never find a reason for it.
Russ 13	posted 04-06-2011 12:48 PM ET (US) Although slightly off topic, how does the ride in the Dauntless compare to the classic hulls, does the Dauntless have a V hull shape?
Jefecinco	posted 04-06-2011 06:38 PM ET (US) Russ, The 16, or later 160, Dauntless would be classified as a semi-V hull with a fairly sharp entry forward tapering back to a semi-V shape at the transom. It rides well but in a chop it is sensitive to trim adjustment. It is normally seen with a 90 or 115 HP engine for power. IMO the 115 HP engine on the 16 Dauntless provides for a much more satisfactory boat/engine combination and the trim can be adjusted to handle most conditions. With the 115 HP engine I believe it can maintain plane at lower speeds than with a 90 HP engine. Use of a four blade propeller such as the Stiletto Bay I allows for an even slower planing speed which can be a significant advantage in a chop. Sometimes you just have to slow down unless your fillings are mounted in epoxy. Use of trim tabs on the hull may be very beneficial but I've not heard of anyone using them on this relatively small boat. It is an excellent boat for almost all purposes. Butch
davej14	posted 04-06-2011 08:47 PM ET (US) I lined the floor of my console and the rps with dry-deck. Keeps everything up about a half inch and allows for any water to flow under the contents. I did cut of the dry-deck in the console to allow the battery to sit directly on the floor.
John McBride	posted 04-06-2011 09:40 PM ET (US) The D16 is a bit nicer in the chop but has more wave steer. It takes a lot more time to get on plane but I think it is worth the trade off over a classic tri hull. The boat is noticeably heavier to tow than a 17' classic hull and longer to get on plane. I have a 4s 90 hp and it is MUCH better than the 2 s 90 hp version for some reason. Top speed with two aboard is 43 mph. Factory charts show a slightly better top end but I enjoy the economy.
Jefecinco	posted 04-07-2011 09:58 AM ET (US) John, I agree with Dave's recommendation of dry deck. It's very helpful in both the console and RPS. If you have not yet tried a good four blade propeller on your 160 I suggest you consider it. When I changed to a four blade on mine hole shot was so improved that it was shocking. Top end was dialed down by perhaps two MPH but the trade off was good value. I switched to a Stiletto Bay I 13 1/4 X 15 on the advice of Tom Clark but I was using a 115 HP FICHT so that is probably not the optimum four blade for your 90 HP four stroke. If you are interested check with Tom. He'll know what propeller would meet any of your needs. Butch
John McBride	posted 04-07-2011 06:44 PM ET (US) Butch, I had a prior thread on my performance. With the foil I use, stainless prop, etc. the hole shot is fine and top speed is probably optimum given the power, weight, etc. Unless I manage to destroy this prop I don't see spending that kind of money for an improved hole shot. John