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Author Topic:   1980 Revenge Cuddy

lakergrad posted 05-10-2011 09:53 PM ET (US)
After deciding to move up from a Montauk, I picked up a 1980 Revenge Cuddy. It's been a bit of a project, but will come into its own with time. I have a few questions as I get more familiar with the workings of the boat:
There appears to be a bilge pump of some kind installed in a compartment where wiring runs through the hull. When I launched the first time yesterday, this compartment filled with water. Is this normal? What is the bilge pump designed to do? Remove water from where?
There is a pull switch on the dash marked "FUEL". What is this for?
I don't believe the fuel gauge is working. Is this year equipped with the magnetic or electric gauge?
I had a terrible time with loading the boat on the E-Z-Loader, roller trailer. I do plan to convert it to bunks, but does anyone have any tips for loading?
Thanks in advance for the information.
jimh posted 05-10-2011 10:04 PM ET (US)
Typically on classic Boston Whaler hulls there is a sump area on the Starboard side in the aft portion of the cockpit. This sump is also connected to the rigging tunnel, which itself also acts as a way for water to drain into the sump. There is a through-hull drain to the sea in the sump. As an option an electric sump (or bilge) pump can be installed in the sump.
If the sump fills with water you probably do not have the through-hull plugged. See the owner's manual:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/operations. html#selfBailing
jimh posted 05-10-2011 10:06 PM ET (US)
I don't recall reading about any electrical accessories related to the fuel system. You will have to investigate the circuit that is wired to the switch at the helm marked FUEL to see what device is controlled by it. My guess is perhaps an electric fuel primer pump.
jimh posted 05-10-2011 10:08 PM ET (US)
You can generally deduce the principle of operation of the fuel gauge by its location. If the gauge is located immediately above the fuel tank there is a mechanical-magnetic linkage. If the gauge is remote from the fuel tank and has wires connected to it, the gauge is electrically operated.
Jeff posted 05-10-2011 10:29 PM ET (US)
Laker,
Didn't you buy Tony's 1980 22 Revenge, or did you get another boat?
https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfingsuploads/home/Astrb%20bow%20web. jpg?attredirects=0
https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfingsuploads/_/rsrc/1284734950497/ home/Astrb%20trans%20web.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfingsuploads/home/APort%20trans%20web. jpg?attredirects=0
There is a difference in the layout of the cockpit, helm and rigging on a Revenge and a Revenge Cuddy.
lakergrad posted 05-10-2011 10:57 PM ET (US)
Yeah. That it is. It's rigged with a new 225 now, kicker, and some other goodies. I have nothing good to say about the previous owner, as he intentionally sold it to me with a blown motor, laughed, and said I should have known better. What a guy. It's now in the hands of my attorney and has not been forgotten.
Anyway, I'm refocused on making it the rig I envisioned form the beginning. So, back to the questions at hand.
Thanks jimh. You have given me some things to start with for sure.
lakergrad posted 05-10-2011 11:06 PM ET (US)
Also, I installed a new winch on the trailer and have noticed the boat is very quick to bounce on the trailer at the bow. We tried reversing the winch strap so it connects to the bow from the bottom instead of over the top of the winch, but this didn't improve the bouncing.
Should I add a cross-strap to secure the boat or am I missing something at the bow?
Jeff posted 05-10-2011 11:34 PM ET (US)
Interesting about the motor. I seem to remember some dancing around it when I asked.
jimh posted 05-11-2011 12:36 AM ET (US)
The Boston Whaler shown in the images linked above appears to be a REVENGE V-22, not a REVENGE CUDDY.
If the boat were initially rigged with an OMC V6 it might have had an electric fuel primer pump. Such a pump was optional with the larger OMC engines. This would be congruent with my speculation above that the switch marked FUEL might be to control the primer pump. By the way, if you still have the primer pump, please let me know.
jimh posted 05-11-2011 12:45 AM ET (US)
Regarding the rigging of the winch and winch strap on the trailer:
I like the position of the winch to be oriented so that when loading the boat on the trailer the line or strap from the winch tends to pull the boat's bow slightly upward. My feeling is that a slight upward pull helps to lift the boat onto the trailer and pull it forward more easily. If the pull of the winch strap exerts a downward force on the bow, this tends to increase the friction of the hull moving forward on the trailer. However, when the winch is rigged with a slight upward pull, the hull can bounce up and off the notch of the V-rest bow stop. To compensate for that I employ a separate tie-down which I add after the boat has been loaded. The second tie-down hooks into the bow-eye at the stem and pulls downward. This keeps the bow firmly in the V-rest of the bow stop. When rigged as I have described there will be no observable bouncing of the bow in the notch of the V-rest bow stop.
JMARTIN posted 05-11-2011 01:03 PM ET (US)
My 1983 V22 Revenge has a fuel gauge on the dash. It has a pull knob marked "Fuel" by the Navigation lights. You pull the knob, the power comes on to the gauge and the needle moves. I guess you were suppose to turn it on, note your fuel level and then turn it back off. Strange system and not very accurate at all. I got a flow meter instead.
John
flippa posted 05-12-2011 12:44 AM ET (US)
I was just about to ask this same question. I have been putting hours on my new Revenge 22 WT and was wondering about the fish box full of water.
I have the check valve on the fishwell but am missing the ball check valve on the exterior of the transom.
Where would I get a replacement for this item?
The swich on my dash also turns on the fuel gauge. Kind of an odd set-up.
JMARTIN posted 05-12-2011 01:21 PM ET (US)
Flippa, I have a plug in both of the through-hulls in the fish/bait box. It still gets wet in there, but I think it is better than constantly filling up with water then emptying back out when you are running.
John
flippa posted 05-13-2011 11:44 AM ET (US)
I was thinking of keeping a plug on the interior of the splashwell once I get drained when underway, but I would prefer to install another ball check valve.
The check valve works fairly well on the fishbox. It doesn't bother me to have the water in the boat when at rest, but it would be nice to have these remain drained. It is kind of crazy to be carrying around all that water.
Does anyone know if the ball check valve are still available?
flippa posted 05-13-2011 11:47 AM ET (US)
Hey Laker
The only advice I can give regarding the trailer is to keep practicing.
It took me seconds to load my Montauk back on it's trailer, but my Outrage 21 was often a challenge. I still need to get a trailer for the Revenge.
Good luck with your new boat.
mgeiger posted 05-13-2011 02:39 PM ET (US)
I'm still stuck on the fact that this boat was sold with a blown engine and the buyer wasn't aware of it. Is it simply because a sea trial, or even muffs & a hose aren't an option in the winter?
I prefer the look of these older Revenges with the taller glass. Hope the price was right. Beyond the motor, it looks like a matter of some serious cleaning and polishing & you'll have a fine vessel.
Congrats.

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Author	Topic: 1980 Revenge Cuddy
lakergrad	posted 05-10-2011 09:53 PM ET (US) After deciding to move up from a Montauk, I picked up a 1980 Revenge Cuddy. It's been a bit of a project, but will come into its own with time. I have a few questions as I get more familiar with the workings of the boat: There appears to be a bilge pump of some kind installed in a compartment where wiring runs through the hull. When I launched the first time yesterday, this compartment filled with water. Is this normal? What is the bilge pump designed to do? Remove water from where? There is a pull switch on the dash marked "FUEL". What is this for? I don't believe the fuel gauge is working. Is this year equipped with the magnetic or electric gauge? I had a terrible time with loading the boat on the E-Z-Loader, roller trailer. I do plan to convert it to bunks, but does anyone have any tips for loading? Thanks in advance for the information.
jimh	posted 05-10-2011 10:04 PM ET (US) Typically on classic Boston Whaler hulls there is a sump area on the Starboard side in the aft portion of the cockpit. This sump is also connected to the rigging tunnel, which itself also acts as a way for water to drain into the sump. There is a through-hull drain to the sea in the sump. As an option an electric sump (or bilge) pump can be installed in the sump. If the sump fills with water you probably do not have the through-hull plugged. See the owner's manual: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/operations. html#selfBailing
jimh	posted 05-10-2011 10:06 PM ET (US) I don't recall reading about any electrical accessories related to the fuel system. You will have to investigate the circuit that is wired to the switch at the helm marked FUEL to see what device is controlled by it. My guess is perhaps an electric fuel primer pump.
jimh	posted 05-10-2011 10:08 PM ET (US) You can generally deduce the principle of operation of the fuel gauge by its location. If the gauge is located immediately above the fuel tank there is a mechanical-magnetic linkage. If the gauge is remote from the fuel tank and has wires connected to it, the gauge is electrically operated.
Jeff	posted 05-10-2011 10:29 PM ET (US) Laker, Didn't you buy Tony's 1980 22 Revenge, or did you get another boat? https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfingsuploads/home/Astrb%20bow%20web. jpg?attredirects=0 https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfingsuploads/_/rsrc/1284734950497/ home/Astrb%20trans%20web.jpg https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfingsuploads/home/APort%20trans%20web. jpg?attredirects=0 There is a difference in the layout of the cockpit, helm and rigging on a Revenge and a Revenge Cuddy.
lakergrad	posted 05-10-2011 10:57 PM ET (US) Yeah. That it is. It's rigged with a new 225 now, kicker, and some other goodies. I have nothing good to say about the previous owner, as he intentionally sold it to me with a blown motor, laughed, and said I should have known better. What a guy. It's now in the hands of my attorney and has not been forgotten. Anyway, I'm refocused on making it the rig I envisioned form the beginning. So, back to the questions at hand. Thanks jimh. You have given me some things to start with for sure.
lakergrad	posted 05-10-2011 11:06 PM ET (US) Also, I installed a new winch on the trailer and have noticed the boat is very quick to bounce on the trailer at the bow. We tried reversing the winch strap so it connects to the bow from the bottom instead of over the top of the winch, but this didn't improve the bouncing. Should I add a cross-strap to secure the boat or am I missing something at the bow?
Jeff	posted 05-10-2011 11:34 PM ET (US) Interesting about the motor. I seem to remember some dancing around it when I asked.
jimh	posted 05-11-2011 12:36 AM ET (US) The Boston Whaler shown in the images linked above appears to be a REVENGE V-22, not a REVENGE CUDDY. If the boat were initially rigged with an OMC V6 it might have had an electric fuel primer pump. Such a pump was optional with the larger OMC engines. This would be congruent with my speculation above that the switch marked FUEL might be to control the primer pump. By the way, if you still have the primer pump, please let me know.
jimh	posted 05-11-2011 12:45 AM ET (US) Regarding the rigging of the winch and winch strap on the trailer: I like the position of the winch to be oriented so that when loading the boat on the trailer the line or strap from the winch tends to pull the boat's bow slightly upward. My feeling is that a slight upward pull helps to lift the boat onto the trailer and pull it forward more easily. If the pull of the winch strap exerts a downward force on the bow, this tends to increase the friction of the hull moving forward on the trailer. However, when the winch is rigged with a slight upward pull, the hull can bounce up and off the notch of the V-rest bow stop. To compensate for that I employ a separate tie-down which I add after the boat has been loaded. The second tie-down hooks into the bow-eye at the stem and pulls downward. This keeps the bow firmly in the V-rest of the bow stop. When rigged as I have described there will be no observable bouncing of the bow in the notch of the V-rest bow stop.
JMARTIN	posted 05-11-2011 01:03 PM ET (US) My 1983 V22 Revenge has a fuel gauge on the dash. It has a pull knob marked "Fuel" by the Navigation lights. You pull the knob, the power comes on to the gauge and the needle moves. I guess you were suppose to turn it on, note your fuel level and then turn it back off. Strange system and not very accurate at all. I got a flow meter instead. John
flippa	posted 05-12-2011 12:44 AM ET (US) I was just about to ask this same question. I have been putting hours on my new Revenge 22 WT and was wondering about the fish box full of water. I have the check valve on the fishwell but am missing the ball check valve on the exterior of the transom. Where would I get a replacement for this item? The swich on my dash also turns on the fuel gauge. Kind of an odd set-up.
JMARTIN	posted 05-12-2011 01:21 PM ET (US) Flippa, I have a plug in both of the through-hulls in the fish/bait box. It still gets wet in there, but I think it is better than constantly filling up with water then emptying back out when you are running. John
flippa	posted 05-13-2011 11:44 AM ET (US) I was thinking of keeping a plug on the interior of the splashwell once I get drained when underway, but I would prefer to install another ball check valve. The check valve works fairly well on the fishbox. It doesn't bother me to have the water in the boat when at rest, but it would be nice to have these remain drained. It is kind of crazy to be carrying around all that water. Does anyone know if the ball check valve are still available?
flippa	posted 05-13-2011 11:47 AM ET (US) Hey Laker The only advice I can give regarding the trailer is to keep practicing. It took me seconds to load my Montauk back on it's trailer, but my Outrage 21 was often a challenge. I still need to get a trailer for the Revenge. Good luck with your new boat.
mgeiger	posted 05-13-2011 02:39 PM ET (US) I'm still stuck on the fact that this boat was sold with a blown engine and the buyer wasn't aware of it. Is it simply because a sea trial, or even muffs & a hose aren't an option in the winter? I prefer the look of these older Revenges with the taller glass. Hope the price was right. Beyond the motor, it looks like a matter of some serious cleaning and polishing & you'll have a fine vessel. Congrats.