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Author Topic:   84 Montauk Floor Repair

low tide posted 07-06-2011 10:53 AM ET (US)
Hello,
I just purchased my first Montauk restoration project. I could use some guidence on repairing a large hole in the floor. The area of concern is where the fuel tank will sit under the seat. I have included some pics. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
http://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x358/driftwood7/
Tohsgib posted 07-06-2011 12:11 PM ET (US)
Ah...the old dealer removed the seal for the tank hoses hole so the Pate tank would sit flush scenerio.
Looks like you are handling it pretty well. What in particular are you asking? How to finish it or? The good thing is the tanks will cover most of it and some other kind of decking or tank pads can cover the rest so only you will know the repair is there. Just make sure it is all sealed well before you cover it up.
low tide posted 07-06-2011 02:27 PM ET (US)
What is the best way to finish the job? Should I replace the plywood and then use 5200 to seal the glass back? How would I secure the plywood? Should I just poor in apoxy and sand smooth? How do I go about sealing the fuel ine hole? thanks
low tide posted 07-06-2011 08:22 PM ET (US)
What does Boston Whaler recomend? I have been reading old threads and the debate has been weather to use West Marines injection or to cut out the glass. I am past using the West Marine system. I just need to know how to reassemble now that the water is gone. Help Please!!! Please look at my pics. Thanks, Kris
low tide posted 07-07-2011 12:42 PM ET (US)
I have read many old threads regarding this issue. I have come to the conclusion that there are many ways of going about this. All are right as long as my hole is dry, covered well, and sealed well. All right here is what I plan on doing.
First I am going to replace the old rotten plywood with a new piece of marine grade plywood. I plan on cutting the wood about a half inch less on all sides. The thought here is that I can leave a half inch channel to fill with resin all the way around.
Then I plan on glassing over the seams.
Then I will use 5200 to glue the laminate back to the marine plywood.
Next I will Glass over the edges of the laminate, sand, and apply gel coat.
Any thoughts?
Tohsgib posted 07-07-2011 01:17 PM ET (US)
Sounds good.
SpongeBob posted 07-07-2011 02:35 PM ET (US)
Why would you use 5200? Was not the laminate originaly glassed to the plywood? Was any foam removed? This is how I would approach the repair:
1. If foam was removed refoam and surface to the level of the existing foam.
2. I would not leave 1/2" gap around the edges of the plwood that is to much. No more than an 1/8th of an inch.
3. Wet out the foam and underside of the new plywood with epoxy resin. My choice choice of resin would be WEST Systems but certainly there are others on the market. Between the foam and plywood lay down and wet out one or two layers of 3/4 oz. fiberglass mat. Weight down the top of the plywood (cement blocks should do). Fill the gaps around the edges with a thickened epoxy/milled fibers. allow to cure.
4. Two choices here: a) Grind the edges smooth. Lay
down a layer of 3/4" mat and
wet it out then place the original
laminate on top of the wet mat and
weight it down. Allow to cure and
tape the seams.
b) Bevel the edges of the glass
around the opening back about
3/4". Lay down several layers of
mat the first the size of the
plywood and then increase the size
untill you reach the size of the
beveled area. Place a piece of
of oversize plywood on top with
waxpaper between and weight it
down.
Procedure "a" keeps factory nonskid but as Nick says it is usually covered up. I would probably go with "b" because I believe it will be stronger. The only objection to "b" is appearance and that will be taken care of with the tanks. However if your boat is a 9 out of 10 you may opt for "a".
Jeff
SpongeBob posted 07-07-2011 02:43 PM ET (US)
Forgot to add cutting the hole for the fuel line in the new layers of glass.
Jeff
low tide posted 07-07-2011 03:19 PM ET (US)
Thanks Spongebob...that is what i needed. I like your option a. You are right no need to use the 5200. No foam has been removed. Only the wood was removed. One question. What do you mean by tape the seams? Do you mean glass the seams?
SpongeBob posted 07-07-2011 08:21 PM ET (US)
Yes glass the seams using probably 2" fiberglass tape. Grind back the gelcoat down to the glass 1" on either side of the deck and the re-attatched laminate. Tape off the areas to be glassed using painters tape. This will keep the boat clean and help define the area you will be working in as well as making clean up easier. Wet out the ground out area. Wait till the resin starts to get tacky then lay a layer of tape around the joint. Work it into the resin. Let it set a little longer(don't let it set up though) then apply a second layer of fiberglass tape if needed and wet both out. Use a squeegee to work the resin into the cloth and remove excess resin before it sets. Sand smooth and gelcoat or paint to protect the resin from UV rays.
Jeff

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Author	Topic: 84 Montauk Floor Repair
low tide	posted 07-06-2011 10:53 AM ET (US) Hello, I just purchased my first Montauk restoration project. I could use some guidence on repairing a large hole in the floor. The area of concern is where the fuel tank will sit under the seat. I have included some pics. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, http://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x358/driftwood7/
Tohsgib	posted 07-06-2011 12:11 PM ET (US) Ah...the old dealer removed the seal for the tank hoses hole so the Pate tank would sit flush scenerio. Looks like you are handling it pretty well. What in particular are you asking? How to finish it or? The good thing is the tanks will cover most of it and some other kind of decking or tank pads can cover the rest so only you will know the repair is there. Just make sure it is all sealed well before you cover it up.
low tide	posted 07-06-2011 02:27 PM ET (US) What is the best way to finish the job? Should I replace the plywood and then use 5200 to seal the glass back? How would I secure the plywood? Should I just poor in apoxy and sand smooth? How do I go about sealing the fuel ine hole? thanks
low tide	posted 07-06-2011 08:22 PM ET (US) What does Boston Whaler recomend? I have been reading old threads and the debate has been weather to use West Marines injection or to cut out the glass. I am past using the West Marine system. I just need to know how to reassemble now that the water is gone. Help Please!!! Please look at my pics. Thanks, Kris
low tide	posted 07-07-2011 12:42 PM ET (US) I have read many old threads regarding this issue. I have come to the conclusion that there are many ways of going about this. All are right as long as my hole is dry, covered well, and sealed well. All right here is what I plan on doing. First I am going to replace the old rotten plywood with a new piece of marine grade plywood. I plan on cutting the wood about a half inch less on all sides. The thought here is that I can leave a half inch channel to fill with resin all the way around. Then I plan on glassing over the seams. Then I will use 5200 to glue the laminate back to the marine plywood. Next I will Glass over the edges of the laminate, sand, and apply gel coat. Any thoughts?
Tohsgib	posted 07-07-2011 01:17 PM ET (US) Sounds good.
SpongeBob	posted 07-07-2011 02:35 PM ET (US) Why would you use 5200? Was not the laminate originaly glassed to the plywood? Was any foam removed? This is how I would approach the repair: 1. If foam was removed refoam and surface to the level of the existing foam. 2. I would not leave 1/2" gap around the edges of the plwood that is to much. No more than an 1/8th of an inch. 3. Wet out the foam and underside of the new plywood with epoxy resin. My choice choice of resin would be WEST Systems but certainly there are others on the market. Between the foam and plywood lay down and wet out one or two layers of 3/4 oz. fiberglass mat. Weight down the top of the plywood (cement blocks should do). Fill the gaps around the edges with a thickened epoxy/milled fibers. allow to cure. 4. Two choices here: a) Grind the edges smooth. Lay down a layer of 3/4" mat and wet it out then place the original laminate on top of the wet mat and weight it down. Allow to cure and tape the seams. b) Bevel the edges of the glass around the opening back about 3/4". Lay down several layers of mat the first the size of the plywood and then increase the size untill you reach the size of the beveled area. Place a piece of of oversize plywood on top with waxpaper between and weight it down. Procedure "a" keeps factory nonskid but as Nick says it is usually covered up. I would probably go with "b" because I believe it will be stronger. The only objection to "b" is appearance and that will be taken care of with the tanks. However if your boat is a 9 out of 10 you may opt for "a". Jeff
SpongeBob	posted 07-07-2011 02:43 PM ET (US) Forgot to add cutting the hole for the fuel line in the new layers of glass. Jeff
low tide	posted 07-07-2011 03:19 PM ET (US) Thanks Spongebob...that is what i needed. I like your option a. You are right no need to use the 5200. No foam has been removed. Only the wood was removed. One question. What do you mean by tape the seams? Do you mean glass the seams?
SpongeBob	posted 07-07-2011 08:21 PM ET (US) Yes glass the seams using probably 2" fiberglass tape. Grind back the gelcoat down to the glass 1" on either side of the deck and the re-attatched laminate. Tape off the areas to be glassed using painters tape. This will keep the boat clean and help define the area you will be working in as well as making clean up easier. Wet out the ground out area. Wait till the resin starts to get tacky then lay a layer of tape around the joint. Work it into the resin. Let it set a little longer(don't let it set up though) then apply a second layer of fiberglass tape if needed and wet both out. Use a squeegee to work the resin into the cloth and remove excess resin before it sets. Sand smooth and gelcoat or paint to protect the resin from UV rays. Jeff