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Author Topic:   Johnson Flooded

Powergroove803 posted 08-17-2011 02:32 PM ET (US)
Out of nowhere a strong-running [1988] two-cycle Johnson 25-HP outboard engine flooded. But I think something began before this trip and this incident, as I noticed an oil streak running down both sides of the shaft cover of the outboard engine after a morning of fishing. When I opened up the cover I could see clear liquid in the bottom rim, and I smelled gas. I thought the oil streak was from the kids washing the boat and outboard engine down after fishing that morning, as they had a little water fight. When we went back out that afternoon, [the 1988 Johnson 25-HP two-cycle outboard engine] started fine, ran fine but after we parked at a sandbar for an hour or so, it was flooded when I tried to crank it. I finally got [the outboard engine] started and got home, but even after running all the gas out of the outboard engine before leaving the water, I smellws a strong odor of gas. Could there some tubing loose? Does it sound like something else?
newt posted 08-17-2011 02:48 PM ET (US)
Try taking the cowling off the outboard engine and squeezing the primer bulb firmly. Look for fuel leaking around the carburetors. It could be time to service the float valve assembly.
Tohsgib posted 08-17-2011 03:25 PM ET (US)
Ditto! Only one carburetor can't be hard to find. If it is coming out the mouth of the carburetors without the engine being tilted--float.
jimh posted 08-17-2011 08:15 PM ET (US)
Perhaps the carburetor float has become saturated and no longer has buoyancy.
contender posted 08-17-2011 09:28 PM ET (US)
See all the above....
vkr posted 08-18-2011 11:56 AM ET (US)
I thought I read somewhere that there is an old float style that either dried out or would fail in it's ability to float. If this is actually the case, does anyone know what the cut over date/year was for the revised float design?
Just curious, for this case would it be ok just to replace the float and needle valve, or should one just rebuild the entire carb?
adlert posted 08-18-2011 01:26 PM ET (US)
Rebuild the carburetor completely once you're there. If using the Bombardier kit you'll have all the parts necessary anyway. Plus, you really do want to replace the old gaskets with the newer alcohol tolerant ones.
Tohsgib posted 08-18-2011 01:26 PM ET (US)
Rebuild the carb and get the new "ethanol proof" needle and float. I think the kit is under $20.
newt posted 08-18-2011 01:27 PM ET (US)
Sure you can just replace a float and needle valve assembly if you can find the parts, but you are probably better off just purchasing a carb kit and replacing all the gaskets, O-rings, needle valve, and float at the same time. A carb kit for my OMC V6 engines costs $18 online or $25 at the dealer, and includes all the parts (and then some) for a rebuild.
newt posted 08-18-2011 01:29 PM ET (US)
Whups, a couple posts popped up while I was typing mine, but we are all saying the same thing.
Powergroove803 posted 08-18-2011 01:41 PM ET (US)
Thanks everyone, one footnote, I did install a transom saver, so the motor is slightly tilted, but this was not the case when it flooded, and I also always run out all of the gas before trailering(someone told me to do that, hope that is the right thing to do)
Tohsgib posted 08-19-2011 11:25 AM ET (US)
Running it out of fuel is fine...not necessary to trailer but good if being stored.
Stevebaz posted 08-19-2011 03:35 PM ET (US)
Could be your vent in the tank. When not running the fuel heats up and pressureized the tank. Excess pressure may have overcome the needle and seat in the carburator.
Stevebaz posted 08-19-2011 03:35 PM ET (US)
Could be your vent in the tank. When not running the fuel heats up and pressureized the tank. Excess pressure may have overcome the needle and seat in the carburator.
Powergroove803 posted 08-22-2011 03:55 PM ET (US)
Found part of the overwhelming gas smell and the source of the oil and gas running down the shaft. The "Braided?" fuel line from the fule line(from tank) connector was frayed at both ends, and leaking at at least one end.
I searched 5 different places on saturday trying to find this "braided" gas line with no luck. Is it braided or whatever that is because of heat?
Where can you find such a line?
Would a gas leak into the engine under the cover cause flooding?
Now that I think of it, I wonder if it was even flooded at all, the gas smell could have been from the leak alone, maybe it was not getting any gas at all.
Crap, more to think about now....

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Author	Topic: Johnson Flooded
Powergroove803	posted 08-17-2011 02:32 PM ET (US) Out of nowhere a strong-running [1988] two-cycle Johnson 25-HP outboard engine flooded. But I think something began before this trip and this incident, as I noticed an oil streak running down both sides of the shaft cover of the outboard engine after a morning of fishing. When I opened up the cover I could see clear liquid in the bottom rim, and I smelled gas. I thought the oil streak was from the kids washing the boat and outboard engine down after fishing that morning, as they had a little water fight. When we went back out that afternoon, [the 1988 Johnson 25-HP two-cycle outboard engine] started fine, ran fine but after we parked at a sandbar for an hour or so, it was flooded when I tried to crank it. I finally got [the outboard engine] started and got home, but even after running all the gas out of the outboard engine before leaving the water, I smellws a strong odor of gas. Could there some tubing loose? Does it sound like something else?
newt	posted 08-17-2011 02:48 PM ET (US) Try taking the cowling off the outboard engine and squeezing the primer bulb firmly. Look for fuel leaking around the carburetors. It could be time to service the float valve assembly.
Tohsgib	posted 08-17-2011 03:25 PM ET (US) Ditto! Only one carburetor can't be hard to find. If it is coming out the mouth of the carburetors without the engine being tilted--float.
jimh	posted 08-17-2011 08:15 PM ET (US) Perhaps the carburetor float has become saturated and no longer has buoyancy.
contender	posted 08-17-2011 09:28 PM ET (US) See all the above....
vkr	posted 08-18-2011 11:56 AM ET (US) I thought I read somewhere that there is an old float style that either dried out or would fail in it's ability to float. If this is actually the case, does anyone know what the cut over date/year was for the revised float design? Just curious, for this case would it be ok just to replace the float and needle valve, or should one just rebuild the entire carb?
adlert	posted 08-18-2011 01:26 PM ET (US) Rebuild the carburetor completely once you're there. If using the Bombardier kit you'll have all the parts necessary anyway. Plus, you really do want to replace the old gaskets with the newer alcohol tolerant ones.
Tohsgib	posted 08-18-2011 01:26 PM ET (US) Rebuild the carb and get the new "ethanol proof" needle and float. I think the kit is under $20.
newt	posted 08-18-2011 01:27 PM ET (US) Sure you can just replace a float and needle valve assembly if you can find the parts, but you are probably better off just purchasing a carb kit and replacing all the gaskets, O-rings, needle valve, and float at the same time. A carb kit for my OMC V6 engines costs $18 online or $25 at the dealer, and includes all the parts (and then some) for a rebuild.
newt	posted 08-18-2011 01:29 PM ET (US) Whups, a couple posts popped up while I was typing mine, but we are all saying the same thing.
Powergroove803	posted 08-18-2011 01:41 PM ET (US) Thanks everyone, one footnote, I did install a transom saver, so the motor is slightly tilted, but this was not the case when it flooded, and I also always run out all of the gas before trailering(someone told me to do that, hope that is the right thing to do)
Tohsgib	posted 08-19-2011 11:25 AM ET (US) Running it out of fuel is fine...not necessary to trailer but good if being stored.
Stevebaz	posted 08-19-2011 03:35 PM ET (US) Could be your vent in the tank. When not running the fuel heats up and pressureized the tank. Excess pressure may have overcome the needle and seat in the carburator.
Stevebaz	posted 08-19-2011 03:35 PM ET (US) Could be your vent in the tank. When not running the fuel heats up and pressureized the tank. Excess pressure may have overcome the needle and seat in the carburator.
Powergroove803	posted 08-22-2011 03:55 PM ET (US) Found part of the overwhelming gas smell and the source of the oil and gas running down the shaft. The "Braided?" fuel line from the fule line(from tank) connector was frayed at both ends, and leaking at at least one end. I searched 5 different places on saturday trying to find this "braided" gas line with no luck. Is it braided or whatever that is because of heat? Where can you find such a line? Would a gas leak into the engine under the cover cause flooding? Now that I think of it, I wonder if it was even flooded at all, the gas smell could have been from the leak alone, maybe it was not getting any gas at all. Crap, more to think about now....