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Author Topic:   1968 13 sport interior placement.

Treypescatorie posted 08-18-2011 10:26 PM ET (US)
I finished painting my 13 and, and now I am ready to put back the interior mahogany. I purchased all new wood. My question is, I need come dimentions on where the seats, console and side rails are placed inside the hull.
Thanks Paul.
Tohsgib posted 08-19-2011 12:14 AM ET (US)
No offense but look at the holes. If you filled in the holes and can NOT figure it out then you are on your own.....
Tohsgib posted 08-19-2011 12:16 AM ET (US)
Ps...if the engine is heavy, move the ENTIRE interior 6"+.
Waterwonderland posted 08-19-2011 12:19 AM ET (US)
Tohsgib, cold, very cold.
FYI - Dimensions needed for your 13 can be searched on this site.
Powergroove803 posted 08-19-2011 09:07 AM ET (US)
Im no expert, but...my friend just added a 25 HP 4 stroke and with the added weight, he has moved everything forward 1 foot to balance it out. There is a diagram that shows where the wood is located under the floor, so figure that out most specifically.
Tohsgib posted 08-19-2011 11:33 AM ET (US)
I did not mean to be cold but if you paint your boat why would you fill in the holes unless you wanted to move the interior? If you wanted to move the interior than you need to know where the old one was so you can adjust it. When I replaced my entire interior I was not able to move the interior forward due fact that I have a custom wooden box that goes under the front twart. If I move mine forward the box would not fit as the floor slopes upward. Moving it up a foot would make it odd looking in my opinion.
Powergroove803 posted 08-19-2011 12:28 PM ET (US)
If you thought that was odd looking...then(Purists turn away!)
Center colnsole adaptation, plus Mahogany Transom Fill and jackplate install.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/66560235@N04/6059587308/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/66560235@N04/6059039841/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/66560235@N04/6059587142/in/photostream/

I know the purist are cringing, but it works real well for me. BTW 1963 13(not sure what model, sport maybe?)
Tohsgib posted 08-19-2011 12:39 PM ET (US)
To each their own. Whaler did sell bare hulls up until the 90's so there are a LOT of different setups.
contender posted 08-19-2011 01:18 PM ET (US)
Tohsgib: If you paint your boat why would you fill your holes? The holes could be cracked, or screw pulled out, or a bad spot. I filled in all the holes on my two whalers for the re-dos except the engine mounting holes on the 17. My reason being is to give the new screws something better/more to bite on. The other reason is as you stated moving the interior forward/backward or different interior all together....Why did whaler quit selling the bare hulls?
Tohsgib posted 08-19-2011 01:38 PM ET (US)
I think when either Reebok or Brunswick bought them they quit. I know you may fill them for that reason but if you did you should have taken pics, had a wood diagram(available here) or known where you were going to mount it. Correct? Lastly...consoles rub the nonskid off the floor where they mount. This can be your starting point and everything else will fall into place.
Here is quite the setup: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/BiggieFL/misc%20pics/ 01010501020101030420071203353f42068.jpg
Waterwonderland posted 08-19-2011 03:58 PM ET (US)
Nick, I was just teasing you. I may have to start putting a smiley face behind my comments:)
contender posted 08-19-2011 07:24 PM ET (US)
Tohsgib: Good points, you are correct I did do a lot of measurements, but I think I ended up moving the 11 interior foward some. I grinder/sanded down all the nonskid in the whalers and shot my own back on to make it all the same. I understand they stop selling the bare hulls but was there ever a reason for it? Has to be easy for the whaler company just to sell a bare hull.
Treypescatorie posted 08-19-2011 09:25 PM ET (US)
I refurbishes the whole hull, including filling all the holes. I had some delamination on the hull bottom, but I drilled holes and filled with epoxy. The hull bottom is rock solid now. I Coated the bottom with epoxy and bottom painted. The top sides and inter I sprayed with Interlux Brightside. Today I installed the new rub rail. So far boat is looking great. I picked up new mahagony to remake the interior. I am going to make everything except the console to the dimensions that I got from the specialtymarine web site. That leads up to my original question. The interior on my boat was remade at some point. And it was not made per the original. That's why I was looking for some measurements on where everything sat according tho the original design. I am looking for distances from the transom to the beginning of the first bench seat and the distance from the end of the bench seat to beginning of the console and the distance from the transom to the beginning of the seat clamps. The distance from the console the the foward bench seat.
Paul
dowdhh posted 08-19-2011 10:06 PM ET (US)
Paul, it sounds like you did a nice job. I think there's drawings on the imbeded mounting wood locations, somwhere on this site, look around. Or maybe, Jimmh will guide you.
Tohsgib posted 08-20-2011 10:50 AM ET (US)
The front twart is mounted against the console so that one you don't have to worry about. When I get back from boating later I will measure my distances as I know my interior is in the factory location.
Waterwonderland posted 08-20-2011 12:17 PM ET (US)
Don't be afraid to make changes to the interior that may suit your purposes better than the original setup.
rhysleo posted 08-28-2011 09:43 AM ET (US)
Treypescatorie, sounds like you did a good job on your BW. Can we see some pictures?
Treypescatorie posted 08-30-2011 07:01 PM ET (US)
Here are the picts. Will update this weekend.
www.flickr.com/photos/15822686@N05/6090481285/
dg22 posted 08-31-2011 09:46 AM ET (US)
Looks great -- quite the transformation from what you started with. I also used Interlux Brightside. It has held up very well. I think it has been 3 years now. Mind you I'm from Canada so the boat only gets a few months of sun each year.

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Author	Topic: 1968 13 sport interior placement.
Treypescatorie	posted 08-18-2011 10:26 PM ET (US) I finished painting my 13 and, and now I am ready to put back the interior mahogany. I purchased all new wood. My question is, I need come dimentions on where the seats, console and side rails are placed inside the hull. Thanks Paul.
Tohsgib	posted 08-19-2011 12:14 AM ET (US) No offense but look at the holes. If you filled in the holes and can NOT figure it out then you are on your own.....
Tohsgib	posted 08-19-2011 12:16 AM ET (US) Ps...if the engine is heavy, move the ENTIRE interior 6"+.
Waterwonderland	posted 08-19-2011 12:19 AM ET (US) Tohsgib, cold, very cold. FYI - Dimensions needed for your 13 can be searched on this site.
Powergroove803	posted 08-19-2011 09:07 AM ET (US) Im no expert, but...my friend just added a 25 HP 4 stroke and with the added weight, he has moved everything forward 1 foot to balance it out. There is a diagram that shows where the wood is located under the floor, so figure that out most specifically.
Tohsgib	posted 08-19-2011 11:33 AM ET (US) I did not mean to be cold but if you paint your boat why would you fill in the holes unless you wanted to move the interior? If you wanted to move the interior than you need to know where the old one was so you can adjust it. When I replaced my entire interior I was not able to move the interior forward due fact that I have a custom wooden box that goes under the front twart. If I move mine forward the box would not fit as the floor slopes upward. Moving it up a foot would make it odd looking in my opinion.
Powergroove803	posted 08-19-2011 12:28 PM ET (US) If you thought that was odd looking...then(Purists turn away!) Center colnsole adaptation, plus Mahogany Transom Fill and jackplate install. http://www.flickr.com/photos/66560235@N04/6059587308/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/66560235@N04/6059039841/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/66560235@N04/6059587142/in/photostream/ I know the purist are cringing, but it works real well for me. BTW 1963 13(not sure what model, sport maybe?)
Tohsgib	posted 08-19-2011 12:39 PM ET (US) To each their own. Whaler did sell bare hulls up until the 90's so there are a LOT of different setups.
contender	posted 08-19-2011 01:18 PM ET (US) Tohsgib: If you paint your boat why would you fill your holes? The holes could be cracked, or screw pulled out, or a bad spot. I filled in all the holes on my two whalers for the re-dos except the engine mounting holes on the 17. My reason being is to give the new screws something better/more to bite on. The other reason is as you stated moving the interior forward/backward or different interior all together....Why did whaler quit selling the bare hulls?
Tohsgib	posted 08-19-2011 01:38 PM ET (US) I think when either Reebok or Brunswick bought them they quit. I know you may fill them for that reason but if you did you should have taken pics, had a wood diagram(available here) or known where you were going to mount it. Correct? Lastly...consoles rub the nonskid off the floor where they mount. This can be your starting point and everything else will fall into place. Here is quite the setup: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/BiggieFL/misc%20pics/ 01010501020101030420071203353f42068.jpg
Waterwonderland	posted 08-19-2011 03:58 PM ET (US) Nick, I was just teasing you. I may have to start putting a smiley face behind my comments:)
contender	posted 08-19-2011 07:24 PM ET (US) Tohsgib: Good points, you are correct I did do a lot of measurements, but I think I ended up moving the 11 interior foward some. I grinder/sanded down all the nonskid in the whalers and shot my own back on to make it all the same. I understand they stop selling the bare hulls but was there ever a reason for it? Has to be easy for the whaler company just to sell a bare hull.
Treypescatorie	posted 08-19-2011 09:25 PM ET (US) I refurbishes the whole hull, including filling all the holes. I had some delamination on the hull bottom, but I drilled holes and filled with epoxy. The hull bottom is rock solid now. I Coated the bottom with epoxy and bottom painted. The top sides and inter I sprayed with Interlux Brightside. Today I installed the new rub rail. So far boat is looking great. I picked up new mahagony to remake the interior. I am going to make everything except the console to the dimensions that I got from the specialtymarine web site. That leads up to my original question. The interior on my boat was remade at some point. And it was not made per the original. That's why I was looking for some measurements on where everything sat according tho the original design. I am looking for distances from the transom to the beginning of the first bench seat and the distance from the end of the bench seat to beginning of the console and the distance from the transom to the beginning of the seat clamps. The distance from the console the the foward bench seat. Paul
dowdhh	posted 08-19-2011 10:06 PM ET (US) Paul, it sounds like you did a nice job. I think there's drawings on the imbeded mounting wood locations, somwhere on this site, look around. Or maybe, Jimmh will guide you.
Tohsgib	posted 08-20-2011 10:50 AM ET (US) The front twart is mounted against the console so that one you don't have to worry about. When I get back from boating later I will measure my distances as I know my interior is in the factory location.
Waterwonderland	posted 08-20-2011 12:17 PM ET (US) Don't be afraid to make changes to the interior that may suit your purposes better than the original setup.
rhysleo	posted 08-28-2011 09:43 AM ET (US) Treypescatorie, sounds like you did a good job on your BW. Can we see some pictures?
Treypescatorie	posted 08-30-2011 07:01 PM ET (US) Here are the picts. Will update this weekend. www.flickr.com/photos/15822686@N05/6090481285/
dg22	posted 08-31-2011 09:46 AM ET (US) Looks great -- quite the transformation from what you started with. I also used Interlux Brightside. It has held up very well. I think it has been 3 years now. Mind you I'm from Canada so the boat only gets a few months of sun each year.