13-footer Engine Mount - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  13-footer Engine Mount

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   13-footer Engine Mount

Sojo81007 posted 09-13-2011 05:56 PM ET (US)
I read some of the posts about mounting an engine, and I assumed it would be a simple job. :) But I need a little direction. I have a 1968 Sport 13, obviously with the notched transom. I have a 1966 Big Twin 40 that I'm trying to mount on it. When I was thinking of putting my Mercury 50-HP on it, it looked like a simple job. The bolts run through the Mercury mount and you put the nuts on the inside, at least for the lower ones.
The Big Twin has room for two bolts, but you can't just run them through. They are threaded holes which are not accessible unless the engine is raised and it appears that the end of the bolt goes on the inside of the transom and runs through to these threaded holes. There's not even really enough clearance to put a nut on. The problem is I drilled my holes and must not have been square because when I put the bolts through the transom only one of them matches the bolt holes on the motor.
I'm concerned about how these bolts will seal, even though they should be above the water line. I coated the inside of the holes with black ATV silicone sealant.
Am I missing something? Should I drill larger holes, fill them with epoxy, and then redrill? If I do redrill, how do I make sure to get them straight so the bolts will go into the motor.
Feel totally stupid for asking such questions but I'm not too proud to admit that I'm not so brilliant when it comes to this stuff (though taking it to the dealer is not an option. With the old engines I can afford this could become routine, haha)
Thanks
contender posted 09-13-2011 08:22 PM ET (US)
Sojo, any hole below the water line needs 3m 5200 or like you stated, drill out a larger hole fill it with an epoxy/or fiberglass then re-drill(this is the better way, correct way, so you are on the right tract). This will protect the wood inside the transom. If you do it this way back it up with the 5200 when you put the bolts back in. Silicone will not work so you need to get rid.drill that stuff out.
Its been a while so I can not remember the bolt configuration of the early evinrudes and merc's. But if you need a short nut try a jam nut. its 1/2 the size of a regular size nut and just put some lock tie on it.
If you can hang the engine on an engine frame or engine hoist you can make a pattern using the mounting bracket on your engine. Get some thin cardboard (tee shirt cardboard) now you need to hold it in place on the mount on the inside were the transom goes. Now use a small hammer to tap around the mount on the cardboard, hammer on the holes as well this will mark everything. By doing this it will make an impression on the cardboard and make yourself a template for drilling the holes in the transom. I use to do this all the time to make my own templates and gaskets....good luck
jimh posted 09-13-2011 11:56 PM ET (US)
Details of engine mounting are a frequently asked question, and we have prepared an answer. See
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q8
There is now a standard hole layout. Older engines may not conform to the standard hole layout. See another answer to a frequently asked question:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q9
Sojo81007 posted 09-14-2011 02:15 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the replies. One thing I was able to find is that those holes I described are called "blind holes." I did a search on that and found more info.
Contender, do you think that WaterWeld would work to fill the holes? I plan on doing that (how big should you over-drill the holes?) and then making a template. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that before.
Last time I took a something loaded with paint and poked it through the blind holes while the engine was sitting on the proper place on the transom. That left two dots where I was to drill the holes. :( Didn't work.
contender posted 09-14-2011 03:33 PM ET (US)
Sojo: Everyone on this site is going to give you a different answer and advise: This is what I do and use, first, I am not familiar with that product (water weld). The stuff I use is a two part epoxy (Superbond) mixed with fiberglass power to make a paste like substance for filling holes. I secure one side of the hole with duct tape and then use a syringe with a long nose to fill the hole. Using a syringe will let you fill the back of the hole and then it will force the rest of the air out as you push the epoxy in, so no air pockets. It will make a solid plug and adhere to the inside of the transom wood and fiberglass. What ever you use let it set up for a longer time than needed so you will be sure it set up correctly. I would drill a 1/2 inch (your smaller engine blind holes my take a 3/8 bolt) hole but since you have stated you are off on your measurements (holes not lining up) you may have to go 5/8's to cover for your mistake. Your other problem is that you have to re-drill the holes correctly, making the same angle that the transom is and how the engine sits on the transom.
Blind holes are use in older outboards (I do not think the new outboards come with them) On my older 16'7" whaler I used them I have a 1985 Evinrude 140. My blind bolts were 1/2 and I made a template as I stated in the above thread with a piece of cardboard and match it to the transom. Jim has given you the measurements for the same, but I like doing it my way.
Sojo: another way If you are near a dealer go see them and ask them if you brought your boat there if they would mark the transom for you or even drill it out. Explain that you have no way for marking for the blind holes, A good dealer will want to make a customer happy for future purchases. Or even make a template from their engine mounting bracket...good luck

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 13-footer Engine Mount
Sojo81007	posted 09-13-2011 05:56 PM ET (US) I read some of the posts about mounting an engine, and I assumed it would be a simple job. :) But I need a little direction. I have a 1968 Sport 13, obviously with the notched transom. I have a 1966 Big Twin 40 that I'm trying to mount on it. When I was thinking of putting my Mercury 50-HP on it, it looked like a simple job. The bolts run through the Mercury mount and you put the nuts on the inside, at least for the lower ones. The Big Twin has room for two bolts, but you can't just run them through. They are threaded holes which are not accessible unless the engine is raised and it appears that the end of the bolt goes on the inside of the transom and runs through to these threaded holes. There's not even really enough clearance to put a nut on. The problem is I drilled my holes and must not have been square because when I put the bolts through the transom only one of them matches the bolt holes on the motor. I'm concerned about how these bolts will seal, even though they should be above the water line. I coated the inside of the holes with black ATV silicone sealant. Am I missing something? Should I drill larger holes, fill them with epoxy, and then redrill? If I do redrill, how do I make sure to get them straight so the bolts will go into the motor. Feel totally stupid for asking such questions but I'm not too proud to admit that I'm not so brilliant when it comes to this stuff (though taking it to the dealer is not an option. With the old engines I can afford this could become routine, haha) Thanks
contender	posted 09-13-2011 08:22 PM ET (US) Sojo, any hole below the water line needs 3m 5200 or like you stated, drill out a larger hole fill it with an epoxy/or fiberglass then re-drill(this is the better way, correct way, so you are on the right tract). This will protect the wood inside the transom. If you do it this way back it up with the 5200 when you put the bolts back in. Silicone will not work so you need to get rid.drill that stuff out. Its been a while so I can not remember the bolt configuration of the early evinrudes and merc's. But if you need a short nut try a jam nut. its 1/2 the size of a regular size nut and just put some lock tie on it. If you can hang the engine on an engine frame or engine hoist you can make a pattern using the mounting bracket on your engine. Get some thin cardboard (tee shirt cardboard) now you need to hold it in place on the mount on the inside were the transom goes. Now use a small hammer to tap around the mount on the cardboard, hammer on the holes as well this will mark everything. By doing this it will make an impression on the cardboard and make yourself a template for drilling the holes in the transom. I use to do this all the time to make my own templates and gaskets....good luck
jimh	posted 09-13-2011 11:56 PM ET (US) Details of engine mounting are a frequently asked question, and we have prepared an answer. See http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q8 There is now a standard hole layout. Older engines may not conform to the standard hole layout. See another answer to a frequently asked question: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q9
Sojo81007	posted 09-14-2011 02:15 AM ET (US) Thanks for the replies. One thing I was able to find is that those holes I described are called "blind holes." I did a search on that and found more info. Contender, do you think that WaterWeld would work to fill the holes? I plan on doing that (how big should you over-drill the holes?) and then making a template. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that before. Last time I took a something loaded with paint and poked it through the blind holes while the engine was sitting on the proper place on the transom. That left two dots where I was to drill the holes. :( Didn't work.
contender	posted 09-14-2011 03:33 PM ET (US) Sojo: Everyone on this site is going to give you a different answer and advise: This is what I do and use, first, I am not familiar with that product (water weld). The stuff I use is a two part epoxy (Superbond) mixed with fiberglass power to make a paste like substance for filling holes. I secure one side of the hole with duct tape and then use a syringe with a long nose to fill the hole. Using a syringe will let you fill the back of the hole and then it will force the rest of the air out as you push the epoxy in, so no air pockets. It will make a solid plug and adhere to the inside of the transom wood and fiberglass. What ever you use let it set up for a longer time than needed so you will be sure it set up correctly. I would drill a 1/2 inch (your smaller engine blind holes my take a 3/8 bolt) hole but since you have stated you are off on your measurements (holes not lining up) you may have to go 5/8's to cover for your mistake. Your other problem is that you have to re-drill the holes correctly, making the same angle that the transom is and how the engine sits on the transom. Blind holes are use in older outboards (I do not think the new outboards come with them) On my older 16'7" whaler I used them I have a 1985 Evinrude 140. My blind bolts were 1/2 and I made a template as I stated in the above thread with a piece of cardboard and match it to the transom. Jim has given you the measurements for the same, but I like doing it my way. Sojo: another way If you are near a dealer go see them and ask them if you brought your boat there if they would mark the transom for you or even drill it out. Explain that you have no way for marking for the blind holes, A good dealer will want to make a customer happy for future purchases. Or even make a template from their engine mounting bracket...good luck