Hinge Fastener Screws - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Hinge Fastener Screws

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Hinge Fastener Screws

Raaaaay posted 01-24-2012 11:44 AM ET (US)
The console doors, front doors, and all the trim on my 1973 Outrage 19' have been varnished and are now ready to be re-attached. The hinges were held on by a variety of screws. All were stainless steel but a mix of flat, pan head, and oval, and some were slotted and some Phillips. The screws were either 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch depending on the thickness of the wood doors, I think that is pretty apparent on my re-attachment.
What are the correct type of screws which looks best going thru the hinge to use to attach the hinges to the wood doors: flat, pan head or oval? And phillips or slotted?
The same question applies to attaching the hinges to the wood trim and to the fiberglass console. These attachments were mostly a machine screw with a finish washer on the front and a flat washer and a locking nut on the interior side. What type of machine screws to use for this?
Raaaaay posted 01-25-2012 03:22 PM ET (US)
Surely someone out there must be a screw expert? I just want my remounting of the wood to look consistent in the screws and do what looks appropriate.
ConB posted 01-25-2012 03:54 PM ET (US)
Oval head phillips.
L H G posted 01-25-2012 06:19 PM ET (US)
Here is what I do on all of my boats where varnished teak is used.
First of all, from my experience, on all 1979 and earlier Whalers that I have owned, BW used slotted screws, mostly oval head. I much prefer the look of Phillips, so on those older boats, I have removed the slotted and replaced with Phillips. Accordingly, I have a huge collection of slotted Whaler screws! And the cost was considerable. it is simply one of my perfectionist obsessions.
Boston Whaler's old raw teak fastener details don't
t work very well with a varnished surface as far as I can tell. The screws and trims rings cut the varnished surface resulting in finish failure and black stained wood.
There are basically two details they used:
1. Oval head screws with trim rings.
2. Oval head screws countersunk flush into the teak.
On number one, my solution is to install a fender washer under the trim ring, preventing the trim ring from slicing into the varnsihed wood. Anybody with wood on a Whaler knows what I am talking about. Whaler wood is full of ring imprints.
On number two, I 3/8" drill out the countersink, and sometimes it is necessary to go all the way through the wood (such as on console frames), and install a teak plug, sanded flush. Then I re-drill a straight hole. This has to be done before varnishing. Then the oval head screw/machine screw has to be replaced with a same size pan head fastener and flat washer. You can see some of these details browsing around and enlarging some of the photos in this 1979 Montauk album, or even the other boats.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Montauk%2017/
ConB posted 01-25-2012 06:32 PM ET (US)
Larry, picture #10, just above the console trim stick, is that a small light?
Con
Raaaaay posted 01-25-2012 10:34 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the feedback on screws.
Larry, I mostly understand your fix for not breaking the varnish finish. Given the many hours spent on the varnish work it will be nice to keep it in good shape.
The only question I have is what is the diameter of the flat washer compared to the finish washer, is it larger than the finish washer or smaller to sits inside the finish washer?

L H G posted 01-26-2012 12:41 AM ET (US)
Con - Yes those are 10W courtesy lights by Guest, one on each side of the console. Unfortunately, they are now out of production. I have them on all of the boats, and the light effect is nice for evening boating and cruising.
Ray - The fender washer should be larger than the diameter of the trim ring, so that the sharp edge rests on it and not on the varnished wood surface.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Hinge Fastener Screws
Raaaaay	posted 01-24-2012 11:44 AM ET (US) The console doors, front doors, and all the trim on my 1973 Outrage 19' have been varnished and are now ready to be re-attached. The hinges were held on by a variety of screws. All were stainless steel but a mix of flat, pan head, and oval, and some were slotted and some Phillips. The screws were either 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch depending on the thickness of the wood doors, I think that is pretty apparent on my re-attachment. What are the correct type of screws which looks best going thru the hinge to use to attach the hinges to the wood doors: flat, pan head or oval? And phillips or slotted? The same question applies to attaching the hinges to the wood trim and to the fiberglass console. These attachments were mostly a machine screw with a finish washer on the front and a flat washer and a locking nut on the interior side. What type of machine screws to use for this?
Raaaaay	posted 01-25-2012 03:22 PM ET (US) Surely someone out there must be a screw expert? I just want my remounting of the wood to look consistent in the screws and do what looks appropriate.
ConB	posted 01-25-2012 03:54 PM ET (US) Oval head phillips.
L H G	posted 01-25-2012 06:19 PM ET (US) Here is what I do on all of my boats where varnished teak is used. First of all, from my experience, on all 1979 and earlier Whalers that I have owned, BW used slotted screws, mostly oval head. I much prefer the look of Phillips, so on those older boats, I have removed the slotted and replaced with Phillips. Accordingly, I have a huge collection of slotted Whaler screws! And the cost was considerable. it is simply one of my perfectionist obsessions. Boston Whaler's old raw teak fastener details don't t work very well with a varnished surface as far as I can tell. The screws and trims rings cut the varnished surface resulting in finish failure and black stained wood. There are basically two details they used: 1. Oval head screws with trim rings. 2. Oval head screws countersunk flush into the teak. On number one, my solution is to install a fender washer under the trim ring, preventing the trim ring from slicing into the varnsihed wood. Anybody with wood on a Whaler knows what I am talking about. Whaler wood is full of ring imprints. On number two, I 3/8" drill out the countersink, and sometimes it is necessary to go all the way through the wood (such as on console frames), and install a teak plug, sanded flush. Then I re-drill a straight hole. This has to be done before varnishing. Then the oval head screw/machine screw has to be replaced with a same size pan head fastener and flat washer. You can see some of these details browsing around and enlarging some of the photos in this 1979 Montauk album, or even the other boats. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Montauk%2017/
ConB	posted 01-25-2012 06:32 PM ET (US) Larry, picture #10, just above the console trim stick, is that a small light? Con
Raaaaay	posted 01-25-2012 10:34 PM ET (US) Thanks for the feedback on screws. Larry, I mostly understand your fix for not breaking the varnish finish. Given the many hours spent on the varnish work it will be nice to keep it in good shape. The only question I have is what is the diameter of the flat washer compared to the finish washer, is it larger than the finish washer or smaller to sits inside the finish washer?
L H G	posted 01-26-2012 12:41 AM ET (US) Con - Yes those are 10W courtesy lights by Guest, one on each side of the console. Unfortunately, they are now out of production. I have them on all of the boats, and the light effect is nice for evening boating and cruising. Ray - The fender washer should be larger than the diameter of the trim ring, so that the sharp edge rests on it and not on the varnished wood surface.