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Author Topic:   Bilge pump replacement

onlyawhaler posted 01-31-2012 05:56 PM ET (US)
Since the winter has been so mild I decided to pull the covers off and replace a fishfinder/gps unit on my 1999 Outrage 20.
While running the new transducer cable from the stern up through, I discovered the factory original bilge pump was in need of replacement.
The brown and black wires coming out of the bilge pump immediately disappear into a larger black plastic conduit with other wiring and are neatly factory routed up to the dash. Impossible to fish wires through that orignal route.
Checking behind the dash on the bilge pump switch I find the same black and brown wiring. Evidently Whaler installed a bilge pump with approximately 12 foot leads with no splices. Nice work.
I didnt' know bilge pumps came with such long leads, maybe that is a factory only rigged item.
If not, do I splice in a new one in the bilge area where there is always alittle water and moisture?
Thanks for any advice
Onlyawhaler
Sterling
dfmcintyre posted 01-31-2012 07:15 PM ET (US)
Generally speaking, splicing wire(s) that are going to be routinely exposed to water is asking for problems.
Is there any way you can use the existing wiring to pull a new pair through the conduit?
A workaround to consider might be to splice in at the stern with the new wires and re-configure and tie wrap them to stay as high as the leads will allow?
Regards - Don
Jefecinco posted 01-31-2012 07:21 PM ET (US)
I'm relatively sure a splice is somewhere in those 12 foot leads. If not, consider cutting the leads at the bilge pump and reuse them for the new pump. You can shorten the new pump leads as needed. Use soldered connections under heat shrink if you are comfortable with soldering. Otherwise use good butt connectors, also under heat shrink, to connect the existing leads to the new pump leads.
Before trying to use the existing leads conduct a continuity test to ensure there is virtually no resistance in the existing leads.
If the existing leads require replacement use them to pull new leads through the black plastic conduit. They can be temporarily attached to the new leads with butt connectors. You can try to pull all three together but it may be easier to pull them one at a time.
Butch
onlyawhaler posted 01-31-2012 07:25 PM ET (US)
Thanks Don,
The conduit is about 1 inch flexible material that won't allow pull through all that way.
I have checked with West Marine and they do on order offer that same bilge pump with up to 12 ft leads.
I think I will go that way and fish those two wires under the floor to the center console and avoid any crimps. Not as tidy as Whaler did it as the wires will lay on top of the gas tank along with fishing transucer wires, but it will avoid crimps in the bilge.
Thanks
Sterling
David Pendleton posted 01-31-2012 07:45 PM ET (US)
Use the Ancor adhesive-lined heat shrink and you should be fine.
Use two pieces that overlap the splice.
David Pendleton posted 01-31-2012 07:50 PM ET (US)
I did quite a bit of rewiring on my boat a few years ago.
I thought I'd be a smart-guy and use Jeff's suggestion and use existing wires to pull new wires.
Trouble was, the factory wrapped the entire wiring harness with electrical tape every 20 inches or so before running it through the conduit...
contender posted 01-31-2012 08:00 PM ET (US)
Only: If the bilge pump you are talking about is a Rule the leads at the longest are 2 feet. I just replaced 3 pumps on my boat, Each one had a lead of about that maybe a little shorter. I cut the ends different lengths (this is so when you seal them its not a big bundle in one area) Used a butt crimp to put them together, solder the wires, used heat shrink over each one, then heat shrink over both, followed by some liquid tape on the ends. My wires are sealed this way for sure. If you plan to run new wires just tape the old ones to the new ones and pull them through. Tape them together a good 8 inches, and at each end of the taping, wrap the tape up the wire so that there is no snag (so can be pull either way). May need two people one to feed the wire the other to pull. Good luck
Mambo Minnow posted 01-31-2012 09:35 PM ET (US)
I just had my Rule replaced on my 1999 when I winterized. The newer models are mercury free in the switch. Apparently a new federal requirement.
jimh posted 01-31-2012 10:04 PM ET (US)
I don't think you will find a replacement electrical pump with power leads that will be long enough to carry from the stern sump all the way to the helm at the center console. This means you will have to make a splice to extend the leads or you will have to employ an in-line connector. Locate the splice or the in-line connector as far above the water line as possible. You may have to run the leads from the pump upward, toward the gunwale, make the splice or connection there, and then, if you want to run the electrical wiring back through the rigging tunnel, run the new leads back downward and into the rigging tunnel.
If you make a really beautiful splice, using perhaps two layers of heat shrink tubing to seal over a soldered connection, then you can be reasonably sure the splice will be water resistant, and you can keep the splice in the sump area.
In my boat I have removed all of the electrical cables from the rigging tunnel and rerouted them to run under the gunwale. The only electrical cable in the rigging tunnel is the cable between the SONAR transducer and the control head, and that cable is routed by itself in order to maintain isolation from the other cables.
I know on a center console it is convenient to use the rigging tunnel, but I think there is a path to the center console from the starboard gunwale. If that is true, you could run all of the electrical cables--or at least your new sump pump power circuit--under the gunwale. This would make it simpler to keep the splice or the in-line connector away from the waterline.
onlyawhaler posted 02-01-2012 01:25 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the great help. I just picked up a new Rule that matches the existing base of the original so it snaps in.
The leads are only 24 inches long so the advice on crimping, sodering and heatshrinking are appreciated.
The bilge area on my boat is my only major complaint on my boat. Bending over the stainless rail around the splash well and getting down inside is pretty close to standing on my head. Very akward.
This is another where my previous 18 Outrage classic was much easier to work on. Simple is almost always better.
Normally I would wait for iceoff on our local lakes to do this, but our weather has been so mild that the lower lakes around Provo, Utah are ice free for the first time in my memory. I have the spring fever to work on the boat and its January. So unusual.
I may pull it out when this is done and go out for a winter run!
Thanks all
Sterling
andygere posted 02-01-2012 01:52 PM ET (US)
I have used the [ANCOR] waterproof butt-splice connectors with integral heat-shrink tubing for bilge pump wiring with great success. [Began to discuss methods of electrical wiring.]
It seems that as copper prices climb, the length of electrical leads on any purchased device get shorter and shorter. Pretty soon, these devices won't come with any leads at all.
captainbrent posted 02-01-2012 04:52 PM ET (US)
I have virtually rewired everything in my 1990 Outrage and my 13 sport except the wires going to the bow lights. [Changed topic to electrical wiring practices. Please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL to discuss electrical wiring practices.]
contender posted 02-02-2012 08:07 AM ET (US)
[Changed topic to discuss electrical wiring practices.]
jimh posted 02-02-2012 08:36 AM ET (US)
Please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL if you want to change the topic. This thread is discussing the installation of a replacement pump in a Boston Whaler. If you want to discuss electrical wiring practices, please start a new discussion in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. Thank you.

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Author	Topic: Bilge pump replacement
onlyawhaler	posted 01-31-2012 05:56 PM ET (US) Since the winter has been so mild I decided to pull the covers off and replace a fishfinder/gps unit on my 1999 Outrage 20. While running the new transducer cable from the stern up through, I discovered the factory original bilge pump was in need of replacement. The brown and black wires coming out of the bilge pump immediately disappear into a larger black plastic conduit with other wiring and are neatly factory routed up to the dash. Impossible to fish wires through that orignal route. Checking behind the dash on the bilge pump switch I find the same black and brown wiring. Evidently Whaler installed a bilge pump with approximately 12 foot leads with no splices. Nice work. I didnt' know bilge pumps came with such long leads, maybe that is a factory only rigged item. If not, do I splice in a new one in the bilge area where there is always alittle water and moisture? Thanks for any advice Onlyawhaler Sterling
dfmcintyre	posted 01-31-2012 07:15 PM ET (US) Generally speaking, splicing wire(s) that are going to be routinely exposed to water is asking for problems. Is there any way you can use the existing wiring to pull a new pair through the conduit? A workaround to consider might be to splice in at the stern with the new wires and re-configure and tie wrap them to stay as high as the leads will allow? Regards - Don
Jefecinco	posted 01-31-2012 07:21 PM ET (US) I'm relatively sure a splice is somewhere in those 12 foot leads. If not, consider cutting the leads at the bilge pump and reuse them for the new pump. You can shorten the new pump leads as needed. Use soldered connections under heat shrink if you are comfortable with soldering. Otherwise use good butt connectors, also under heat shrink, to connect the existing leads to the new pump leads. Before trying to use the existing leads conduct a continuity test to ensure there is virtually no resistance in the existing leads. If the existing leads require replacement use them to pull new leads through the black plastic conduit. They can be temporarily attached to the new leads with butt connectors. You can try to pull all three together but it may be easier to pull them one at a time. Butch
onlyawhaler	posted 01-31-2012 07:25 PM ET (US) Thanks Don, The conduit is about 1 inch flexible material that won't allow pull through all that way. I have checked with West Marine and they do on order offer that same bilge pump with up to 12 ft leads. I think I will go that way and fish those two wires under the floor to the center console and avoid any crimps. Not as tidy as Whaler did it as the wires will lay on top of the gas tank along with fishing transucer wires, but it will avoid crimps in the bilge. Thanks Sterling
David Pendleton	posted 01-31-2012 07:45 PM ET (US) Use the Ancor adhesive-lined heat shrink and you should be fine. Use two pieces that overlap the splice.
David Pendleton	posted 01-31-2012 07:50 PM ET (US) I did quite a bit of rewiring on my boat a few years ago. I thought I'd be a smart-guy and use Jeff's suggestion and use existing wires to pull new wires. Trouble was, the factory wrapped the entire wiring harness with electrical tape every 20 inches or so before running it through the conduit...
contender	posted 01-31-2012 08:00 PM ET (US) Only: If the bilge pump you are talking about is a Rule the leads at the longest are 2 feet. I just replaced 3 pumps on my boat, Each one had a lead of about that maybe a little shorter. I cut the ends different lengths (this is so when you seal them its not a big bundle in one area) Used a butt crimp to put them together, solder the wires, used heat shrink over each one, then heat shrink over both, followed by some liquid tape on the ends. My wires are sealed this way for sure. If you plan to run new wires just tape the old ones to the new ones and pull them through. Tape them together a good 8 inches, and at each end of the taping, wrap the tape up the wire so that there is no snag (so can be pull either way). May need two people one to feed the wire the other to pull. Good luck
Mambo Minnow	posted 01-31-2012 09:35 PM ET (US) I just had my Rule replaced on my 1999 when I winterized. The newer models are mercury free in the switch. Apparently a new federal requirement.
jimh	posted 01-31-2012 10:04 PM ET (US) I don't think you will find a replacement electrical pump with power leads that will be long enough to carry from the stern sump all the way to the helm at the center console. This means you will have to make a splice to extend the leads or you will have to employ an in-line connector. Locate the splice or the in-line connector as far above the water line as possible. You may have to run the leads from the pump upward, toward the gunwale, make the splice or connection there, and then, if you want to run the electrical wiring back through the rigging tunnel, run the new leads back downward and into the rigging tunnel. If you make a really beautiful splice, using perhaps two layers of heat shrink tubing to seal over a soldered connection, then you can be reasonably sure the splice will be water resistant, and you can keep the splice in the sump area. In my boat I have removed all of the electrical cables from the rigging tunnel and rerouted them to run under the gunwale. The only electrical cable in the rigging tunnel is the cable between the SONAR transducer and the control head, and that cable is routed by itself in order to maintain isolation from the other cables. I know on a center console it is convenient to use the rigging tunnel, but I think there is a path to the center console from the starboard gunwale. If that is true, you could run all of the electrical cables--or at least your new sump pump power circuit--under the gunwale. This would make it simpler to keep the splice or the in-line connector away from the waterline.
onlyawhaler	posted 02-01-2012 01:25 AM ET (US) Thanks for the great help. I just picked up a new Rule that matches the existing base of the original so it snaps in. The leads are only 24 inches long so the advice on crimping, sodering and heatshrinking are appreciated. The bilge area on my boat is my only major complaint on my boat. Bending over the stainless rail around the splash well and getting down inside is pretty close to standing on my head. Very akward. This is another where my previous 18 Outrage classic was much easier to work on. Simple is almost always better. Normally I would wait for iceoff on our local lakes to do this, but our weather has been so mild that the lower lakes around Provo, Utah are ice free for the first time in my memory. I have the spring fever to work on the boat and its January. So unusual. I may pull it out when this is done and go out for a winter run! Thanks all Sterling
andygere	posted 02-01-2012 01:52 PM ET (US) I have used the [ANCOR] waterproof butt-splice connectors with integral heat-shrink tubing for bilge pump wiring with great success. [Began to discuss methods of electrical wiring.] It seems that as copper prices climb, the length of electrical leads on any purchased device get shorter and shorter. Pretty soon, these devices won't come with any leads at all.
captainbrent	posted 02-01-2012 04:52 PM ET (US) I have virtually rewired everything in my 1990 Outrage and my 13 sport except the wires going to the bow lights. [Changed topic to electrical wiring practices. Please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL to discuss electrical wiring practices.]
contender	posted 02-02-2012 08:07 AM ET (US) [Changed topic to discuss electrical wiring practices.]
jimh	posted 02-02-2012 08:36 AM ET (US) Please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL if you want to change the topic. This thread is discussing the installation of a replacement pump in a Boston Whaler. If you want to discuss electrical wiring practices, please start a new discussion in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. Thank you.