Classic 15 Navigation Lamp Repair - Moderated Discussion Areas

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Author Topic:   Classic 15 Navigation Lamp Repair

dgoodhue posted 02-29-2012 12:40 PM ET (US)
I have the [white all-round lamp] for my classic 15'. [Did they come] from the factory with a plug when not in use? I rarely see small [Boston Whaler boats] with the stern light installed.
KDW posted 02-29-2012 05:24 PM ET (US)
My 15-foot Whaler SPORT has factory wiring plugs: one male [connector] with two different sizes of round split copper posts for the [lamp] and matching copper sleeves on the female end attached to the boat's wiring harness. Each positive and negative wire is attached to the plug end by tightening the bare stranded wire under set screw terminals recessed inside the small black plug end.
I don't have a part number, but I think you can buy these small black plugs at West Marine and other marine stores as they are fairly common. Also, other plug types may work but must be able to pass through the stern light holder holes.
frontier posted 02-29-2012 07:40 PM ET (US)
I use the Seadog part # 426880-1 two-wire plug, around $5.00. If desired, you can cover the wires on both sides of the plug with small black wire loom. Looks great.
jimh posted 02-29-2012 09:00 PM ET (US)
About three years ago there was a rather long and comprehensive discussion about the electrical connector for the white all-round lamp at the stern of a classic Boston Whaler boat which was conducted in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. You may find it contains some information that is of use to you:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/002500.html
As a follow-up to the suggestion I made in that discussion, I have been using the DEUTSCH connectors for several years and it works beautifully.
L H G posted 03-02-2012 04:18 PM ET (US)
The above link is good reading on this subject. I still say the simple 2 pole trailer style flat connector for about $2.00 is as good as you can get. I use them on my Whalers, for any number of connections in addition to stern lights, that may need to be unplugged for repair and maintenence, without a single failure in 20 years.
For a simple wiring solution like a Stern Light pole on a 15, it works well and slides through the light pole stantions, and important consideration. You won't find anything better. Here is mine on a Montauk:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Montauk%2017/?action=view& current=Scan_Pic0031.jpg
The little junction box, with 4 gang terminal block inside, from Twin Cities, is also highly recommended on these open Whalers.
L H G posted 03-02-2012 04:26 PM ET (US)
Found another photo of same plug detail on the Outrage 19 classic:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2019/?action=view& current=R1-6.jpg
KDW posted 03-02-2012 04:34 PM ET (US)
Great idea LHG!
You just gave me an idea about an easy way to connect the bilge pump on my 15' whaler sport.
Thanks a bunch!
KW
L H G posted 03-02-2012 05:41 PM ET (US)
I also use these plugs for my pumps in the Outrage models, which as we all know, often need to be cleaned, serviced or replaced, and can be hard to reach. Just unplug the old one, clip off the plug and slice it on the new pump wires, and plug it back in. No contortion splice wiring in hard to reach places.
However, with the Montauk, I did not use this plug method because the bilge pump sits at the end of a long rigging tunnel. As can be seen in the photo, the white bilge pump power cable from the console wraps around the pump (for extra working length), and terminates in the two orange wire nuts, where the on-off connection to the auto (chip style) bilge pump is made. After twisting the splice in the nut, it is filled with Life Seal caulking and makes a COMPLETELY WATERPROOF connection in this usually wet sump environment. They are not "yacht style" pretty but this connection works better than anything else you can do and will last a lifetime. Once again, this extra cable allows the pump to be pulled out for service and cleaning, or simple replacement without pulling wires through the tunnel, and having a wire splice buried in there. The pump and wire nut waterproof splices are underneath the teak sump cover and do not show.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Montauk%2017/?action=view& current=Scan_Pic0008.jpg
The red crimp shown in the photo simply terminates the end of the un-used automatic function pump wire. The bilge pump is wired to an on-off switch in the dash. When on, it cycles to test for water every 3 minutes.

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Author	Topic: Classic 15 Navigation Lamp Repair
dgoodhue	posted 02-29-2012 12:40 PM ET (US) I have the [white all-round lamp] for my classic 15'. [Did they come] from the factory with a plug when not in use? I rarely see small [Boston Whaler boats] with the stern light installed.
KDW	posted 02-29-2012 05:24 PM ET (US) My 15-foot Whaler SPORT has factory wiring plugs: one male [connector] with two different sizes of round split copper posts for the [lamp] and matching copper sleeves on the female end attached to the boat's wiring harness. Each positive and negative wire is attached to the plug end by tightening the bare stranded wire under set screw terminals recessed inside the small black plug end. I don't have a part number, but I think you can buy these small black plugs at West Marine and other marine stores as they are fairly common. Also, other plug types may work but must be able to pass through the stern light holder holes.
frontier	posted 02-29-2012 07:40 PM ET (US) I use the Seadog part # 426880-1 two-wire plug, around $5.00. If desired, you can cover the wires on both sides of the plug with small black wire loom. Looks great.
jimh	posted 02-29-2012 09:00 PM ET (US) About three years ago there was a rather long and comprehensive discussion about the electrical connector for the white all-round lamp at the stern of a classic Boston Whaler boat which was conducted in SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. You may find it contains some information that is of use to you: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/002500.html As a follow-up to the suggestion I made in that discussion, I have been using the DEUTSCH connectors for several years and it works beautifully.
L H G	posted 03-02-2012 04:18 PM ET (US) The above link is good reading on this subject. I still say the simple 2 pole trailer style flat connector for about $2.00 is as good as you can get. I use them on my Whalers, for any number of connections in addition to stern lights, that may need to be unplugged for repair and maintenence, without a single failure in 20 years. For a simple wiring solution like a Stern Light pole on a 15, it works well and slides through the light pole stantions, and important consideration. You won't find anything better. Here is mine on a Montauk: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Montauk%2017/?action=view& current=Scan_Pic0031.jpg The little junction box, with 4 gang terminal block inside, from Twin Cities, is also highly recommended on these open Whalers.
L H G	posted 03-02-2012 04:26 PM ET (US) Found another photo of same plug detail on the Outrage 19 classic: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2019/?action=view& current=R1-6.jpg
KDW	posted 03-02-2012 04:34 PM ET (US) Great idea LHG! You just gave me an idea about an easy way to connect the bilge pump on my 15' whaler sport. Thanks a bunch! KW
L H G	posted 03-02-2012 05:41 PM ET (US) I also use these plugs for my pumps in the Outrage models, which as we all know, often need to be cleaned, serviced or replaced, and can be hard to reach. Just unplug the old one, clip off the plug and slice it on the new pump wires, and plug it back in. No contortion splice wiring in hard to reach places. However, with the Montauk, I did not use this plug method because the bilge pump sits at the end of a long rigging tunnel. As can be seen in the photo, the white bilge pump power cable from the console wraps around the pump (for extra working length), and terminates in the two orange wire nuts, where the on-off connection to the auto (chip style) bilge pump is made. After twisting the splice in the nut, it is filled with Life Seal caulking and makes a COMPLETELY WATERPROOF connection in this usually wet sump environment. They are not "yacht style" pretty but this connection works better than anything else you can do and will last a lifetime. Once again, this extra cable allows the pump to be pulled out for service and cleaning, or simple replacement without pulling wires through the tunnel, and having a wire splice buried in there. The pump and wire nut waterproof splices are underneath the teak sump cover and do not show. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Montauk%2017/?action=view& current=Scan_Pic0008.jpg The red crimp shown in the photo simply terminates the end of the un-used automatic function pump wire. The bilge pump is wired to an on-off switch in the dash. When on, it cycles to test for water every 3 minutes.