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Author Topic:   Mud, no telltale, overheat alarm 10 seconds

PeteB88 posted 07-10-2012 11:54 PM ET (US)
I was just out on Lake Mich with 95 Outrage 17 and 1994 Johnson 115 which runs perfectly. When we were coming back in, I made a few casts for bass in shallow water a few hundred feet from the boat ramp, realized I was really shallow, went easy to get out (maybe 30 feet to deep water, noticed the water tell tale stopped flowing. I shut it down immediately (watch it constantly) and took one of those red plastic spray can shooters (comes w/ WD 40 etc) and poked it through the tiny hole, water began flowing but stream seemed not quite as strong as usual. I went easy to the ramp and before I loaded I thought I'd let it (idle) for a few minutes thinking it would flush it out - within 5 I got an overheat horn warning (less than 5-7 seconds) and shut it down immediately, loaded up and came home. I did pull the cover at the ramp and the heads did not feel too hot, maybe warmer than normal but I could hold my hand on them - What should I do??
My reaction was to come home, put it on the muffs and rinse it out so I am standing by right now waiting to do that or wait for tomorrow.
My gut is to go out right now and 1) push a length of weed eater line through the tell tale and 2) put it on the muffs and turn on the hose for a few minutes and NOT start the motor. I read I should torque the head bolts (I have a Snap On Click Type torque wrench) but I'm worrying about it.
I've been reading the archives and thought I'd post...
Should I hook it to the muffs and hose right now and let it flush?? Motor has been out of the lake for about three hours.
Should I replace the impeller?? How long, difficult? I have people coming over tomorrow night to go for a cruise - need to get on the water -
Should I torque the head bolts as precaution? What are torque specs? It did not get that hot - I cut it off as soon as the audible went off.

I appreciate your thoughts on this - - - Standing by.
And Thanks!!

Teak Oil posted 07-11-2012 09:46 AM ET (US)
Pete I don't think you got it anywhere hot enough to warp the heads. I had this same thing happen to me twice on my v-4 90 with the alarm going off for a short period of time. One time I lost my tell tale but still had water coming from the exhaust. I changed the impeller anyway (which was fine) and simply had a plugged telltale hose. Simply unplug the hose from the head and blow out or replace the hose.
Once the engine is running the heads should be very warm but not burn your skin.
PeteB88 posted 07-11-2012 10:01 AM ET (US)
Thanks - I try to be extra careful and shut down immediately. I understand remove the hose and blow w/ compressed air. I have not changed the impeller and think I'm gonna tackle it today - any tips/cautions??
Thanks Teak!
contender posted 07-11-2012 03:27 PM ET (US)
OMC lower unit, 1st I would shift the engine in neutral and remove the linkage lever form the shift rod (3/8's under the carb). Next undo the bolt that holds the trim tab, there are now be two bolts under this that need to be remove, do so. Now there are 4 more bolts two on each side on the lower unit, remove these. The lower unit should drop some after all the bolts are removed. May have to work the lower unit back a forth to loosen it. After the lower unit is removed, if you can set it up in a vise so you have a steady platform to work off of. Use a wire wheel on the bolts you removed and clear the exhaust extension that will fall out of the lower unit upon removal. After cleaning the bolts and stuff remove your water pump, careful, tighten the bolts a little 1st then loosen them. ONLY REPLACE YOUR WATER PUMP WITH A FACTORY ONE, AND REPLACE THE ENTIRE KIT. When you go to replace the bolts and gasket use omc triple guard grease on the threads and gaskets. DO NOT USE ANY BLUE OR RED LOCK TIGHT ON ANY OF THE BOLTS FOR THE WATER PUMP OR THE LOWER UNIT. Also clean off the drive shaft and grease the entire shaft and especially the end with the splines. Just make sure you have the water pipe/exhaust extension in place when you put the lower unit back on... Its harder than it sounds, good luck
Teak Oil posted 07-11-2012 03:55 PM ET (US)
I used a Sierra kit and it worked for two seasons with no issues.
Having a second person around helps, it seems getting the new impeller blades bent IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION (be sure to note this when taking it apart) and everything lined up for reassembly was the hardest part. Its been four years so my memory is too foggy for much more detail, sorry. Contender covered the process pretty well I think.
Chuck Tribolet posted 07-11-2012 04:23 PM ET (US)
The telltale unscrews from the block, right? Unscrew it,
screw a garden hose in, and turn on the water. Make sure
the water pressure is 50 PSI max.
The factory service manual says to retorque the heads after
an overheat alarm. Put some antisieze compound (I like the
silver permatex stuff) on the threads while you are at it.
I once got mine thoroughly plugged up with mud. For the next
hour of running, every once in while it would spit mud out
the telltale (no hose handy).

Chuck
PeteB88 posted 07-11-2012 10:22 PM ET (US)
IN process - was on a roll until the kit I bought (OEM) from a local dealer was missing two serious o-rings and that ain't cool. Shut me down until probably Friday. I am using my Black and Decker Work Mate stand to secure the lower unit for the job and it works great. Plus I can tighten it down a bit.
Dave - Lockemans' (see below) told me about blowing out as Chuck described - I did it and result was reasonable tell tale but not strong - just as I felt heads heating up I got another alarm and shut down - got the kit and working on the project. There is no obvious damage to the impeller but edges seem scored or like sanded down. Vains are somewhat pliable, not as stiff as the new one. SO I am wondering if coolant passages are plugged up or something.
To be clear another huge round of thanks to Dave at Lockeman's who I called, told him what I'm doing, double checked the kit parts from him and then he told me -"Just call me with any question you might have, I work with guys on the phone all the time" - and he was terrific. I only wish I wasn't 3 hours away.
Dave's the Real Deal...
Thanks - appreciate it and anything else you guys can share.
Binkster posted 07-12-2012 06:18 AM ET (US)
Pete,
Sometimes its hard to get the new impeller back into the pump housing. I bought a bottle of hair gel, and slathered some on the impeller(its slippery stuff). Slide the impeller on the shaft and then slide the pump housing on top(over) the impeller. Clamp a vice grip pliers on the prop shaft, push down on the pump housing, and turn the shaft clockwise with the pliers. The housing should slide right over the impeller. Water will dissipate the hair gel when you start the outboard. Save the hair gel for the next time.
rich
Mr T posted 07-12-2012 02:29 PM ET (US)
I had the exact scenario happen with my 88 SPL motor, and it turned out the solution for me was to run a piece of wire, (I used downrigger cable), up through all of the output ports around the lower end,(there are around 4-5 on the the bottom I believe), while running water through the muffs with the motor not running. This allowed me to monitor the output and watch it till it ran clear from all the ports, at which time I then fired up the motor and checked the tell tale stream. This process took about an hour to perform, alternating between running the wire and running the motor. The mud I ran into was like glue, it took a while to break loose and clear.

PeteB88 posted 07-15-2012 12:09 PM ET (US)
As part of a long story (unanticipated) based on the fact that parts were missing from the impeller kit I bought (Evinrude box) the dealer had me bring the whole thing to their shop yesterday which I did. They exceeded customer service expectations and installed the pump and correct parts in about 5 minutes. After the tech installed proper o-rings and cup into pump housing he assembled all the parts over the shaft. He squirted a solution (like soapy stuff) on the impeller, put the housing over it and hand turned the shaft CW as I recall - the right direction - as he pushed the housing over the impeller - botta boom botta bing.
He recommended taking a garden hose to the water uptake to flush out any mud, weeds, sand or debris. He also said when positioning the lower unit back on the motor turn the flywheel slightly to line-up the shaft.
Hope sharing this helps some of you guys. ANd thanks for your help.

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Author	Topic: Mud, no telltale, overheat alarm 10 seconds
PeteB88	posted 07-10-2012 11:54 PM ET (US) I was just out on Lake Mich with 95 Outrage 17 and 1994 Johnson 115 which runs perfectly. When we were coming back in, I made a few casts for bass in shallow water a few hundred feet from the boat ramp, realized I was really shallow, went easy to get out (maybe 30 feet to deep water, noticed the water tell tale stopped flowing. I shut it down immediately (watch it constantly) and took one of those red plastic spray can shooters (comes w/ WD 40 etc) and poked it through the tiny hole, water began flowing but stream seemed not quite as strong as usual. I went easy to the ramp and before I loaded I thought I'd let it (idle) for a few minutes thinking it would flush it out - within 5 I got an overheat horn warning (less than 5-7 seconds) and shut it down immediately, loaded up and came home. I did pull the cover at the ramp and the heads did not feel too hot, maybe warmer than normal but I could hold my hand on them - What should I do?? My reaction was to come home, put it on the muffs and rinse it out so I am standing by right now waiting to do that or wait for tomorrow. My gut is to go out right now and 1) push a length of weed eater line through the tell tale and 2) put it on the muffs and turn on the hose for a few minutes and NOT start the motor. I read I should torque the head bolts (I have a Snap On Click Type torque wrench) but I'm worrying about it. I've been reading the archives and thought I'd post... Should I hook it to the muffs and hose right now and let it flush?? Motor has been out of the lake for about three hours. Should I replace the impeller?? How long, difficult? I have people coming over tomorrow night to go for a cruise - need to get on the water - Should I torque the head bolts as precaution? What are torque specs? It did not get that hot - I cut it off as soon as the audible went off. I appreciate your thoughts on this - - - Standing by. And Thanks!!
Teak Oil	posted 07-11-2012 09:46 AM ET (US) Pete I don't think you got it anywhere hot enough to warp the heads. I had this same thing happen to me twice on my v-4 90 with the alarm going off for a short period of time. One time I lost my tell tale but still had water coming from the exhaust. I changed the impeller anyway (which was fine) and simply had a plugged telltale hose. Simply unplug the hose from the head and blow out or replace the hose. Once the engine is running the heads should be very warm but not burn your skin.
PeteB88	posted 07-11-2012 10:01 AM ET (US) Thanks - I try to be extra careful and shut down immediately. I understand remove the hose and blow w/ compressed air. I have not changed the impeller and think I'm gonna tackle it today - any tips/cautions?? Thanks Teak!
contender	posted 07-11-2012 03:27 PM ET (US) OMC lower unit, 1st I would shift the engine in neutral and remove the linkage lever form the shift rod (3/8's under the carb). Next undo the bolt that holds the trim tab, there are now be two bolts under this that need to be remove, do so. Now there are 4 more bolts two on each side on the lower unit, remove these. The lower unit should drop some after all the bolts are removed. May have to work the lower unit back a forth to loosen it. After the lower unit is removed, if you can set it up in a vise so you have a steady platform to work off of. Use a wire wheel on the bolts you removed and clear the exhaust extension that will fall out of the lower unit upon removal. After cleaning the bolts and stuff remove your water pump, careful, tighten the bolts a little 1st then loosen them. ONLY REPLACE YOUR WATER PUMP WITH A FACTORY ONE, AND REPLACE THE ENTIRE KIT. When you go to replace the bolts and gasket use omc triple guard grease on the threads and gaskets. DO NOT USE ANY BLUE OR RED LOCK TIGHT ON ANY OF THE BOLTS FOR THE WATER PUMP OR THE LOWER UNIT. Also clean off the drive shaft and grease the entire shaft and especially the end with the splines. Just make sure you have the water pipe/exhaust extension in place when you put the lower unit back on... Its harder than it sounds, good luck
Teak Oil	posted 07-11-2012 03:55 PM ET (US) I used a Sierra kit and it worked for two seasons with no issues. Having a second person around helps, it seems getting the new impeller blades bent IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION (be sure to note this when taking it apart) and everything lined up for reassembly was the hardest part. Its been four years so my memory is too foggy for much more detail, sorry. Contender covered the process pretty well I think.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 07-11-2012 04:23 PM ET (US) The telltale unscrews from the block, right? Unscrew it, screw a garden hose in, and turn on the water. Make sure the water pressure is 50 PSI max. The factory service manual says to retorque the heads after an overheat alarm. Put some antisieze compound (I like the silver permatex stuff) on the threads while you are at it. I once got mine thoroughly plugged up with mud. For the next hour of running, every once in while it would spit mud out the telltale (no hose handy). Chuck
PeteB88	posted 07-11-2012 10:22 PM ET (US) IN process - was on a roll until the kit I bought (OEM) from a local dealer was missing two serious o-rings and that ain't cool. Shut me down until probably Friday. I am using my Black and Decker Work Mate stand to secure the lower unit for the job and it works great. Plus I can tighten it down a bit. Dave - Lockemans' (see below) told me about blowing out as Chuck described - I did it and result was reasonable tell tale but not strong - just as I felt heads heating up I got another alarm and shut down - got the kit and working on the project. There is no obvious damage to the impeller but edges seem scored or like sanded down. Vains are somewhat pliable, not as stiff as the new one. SO I am wondering if coolant passages are plugged up or something. To be clear another huge round of thanks to Dave at Lockeman's who I called, told him what I'm doing, double checked the kit parts from him and then he told me -"Just call me with any question you might have, I work with guys on the phone all the time" - and he was terrific. I only wish I wasn't 3 hours away. Dave's the Real Deal... Thanks - appreciate it and anything else you guys can share.
Binkster	posted 07-12-2012 06:18 AM ET (US) Pete, Sometimes its hard to get the new impeller back into the pump housing. I bought a bottle of hair gel, and slathered some on the impeller(its slippery stuff). Slide the impeller on the shaft and then slide the pump housing on top(over) the impeller. Clamp a vice grip pliers on the prop shaft, push down on the pump housing, and turn the shaft clockwise with the pliers. The housing should slide right over the impeller. Water will dissipate the hair gel when you start the outboard. Save the hair gel for the next time. rich
Mr T	posted 07-12-2012 02:29 PM ET (US) I had the exact scenario happen with my 88 SPL motor, and it turned out the solution for me was to run a piece of wire, (I used downrigger cable), up through all of the output ports around the lower end,(there are around 4-5 on the the bottom I believe), while running water through the muffs with the motor not running. This allowed me to monitor the output and watch it till it ran clear from all the ports, at which time I then fired up the motor and checked the tell tale stream. This process took about an hour to perform, alternating between running the wire and running the motor. The mud I ran into was like glue, it took a while to break loose and clear.
PeteB88	posted 07-15-2012 12:09 PM ET (US) As part of a long story (unanticipated) based on the fact that parts were missing from the impeller kit I bought (Evinrude box) the dealer had me bring the whole thing to their shop yesterday which I did. They exceeded customer service expectations and installed the pump and correct parts in about 5 minutes. After the tech installed proper o-rings and cup into pump housing he assembled all the parts over the shaft. He squirted a solution (like soapy stuff) on the impeller, put the housing over it and hand turned the shaft CW as I recall - the right direction - as he pushed the housing over the impeller - botta boom botta bing. He recommended taking a garden hose to the water uptake to flush out any mud, weeds, sand or debris. He also said when positioning the lower unit back on the motor turn the flywheel slightly to line-up the shaft. Hope sharing this helps some of you guys. ANd thanks for your help.