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Author Topic:   Bow Mount Trolling Motor

Rockrock posted 01-01-2013 10:54 AM ET (US)
Hi all and Happy New Year,
I am finally going to get around to mounting a Minn Kota bow mount trolling motor on my 1989 17 Montauk. I am still deciding what model will work best.Would any one be kind enough to send me some pictures. I need to gather all the data I can before proceeding.(I don't want to mess this one up)! I am also going to mount a fishing chair on the forward bulk head. I bought a custom mount out of California a couple of years back.I would also appreciate any pics of any chair mounts you guys have installed! Thanks ahead of time for your efforts!
Thanks.
Roger,
rogerlpayne@gmail.com
AZdave posted 01-05-2013 11:48 AM ET (US)
I'm in the middle of installing a Minn-kota Powerdrive on my 170 Montauk. It is a bit different from the classic Montauks, but I will post some pictures when finished. I needed to use that model or the Riptide model so it can be sneaked under the front rail when deployed or retrieved. I installed the plastic quick release base from Minn-kota. It is available in white, and only an unobrusive rectangular "puck" remains on the bow when the motor is removed. That seemed appropriate for swimming or tubing with barefoot kids. If you don't use the boat that way, they also make an extruded aluminum base that costs less. I didn't like the sharp edges on that model. I'll actually lake test it in a couple of days when the 3M 5200 dries.
Rockrock posted 01-05-2013 02:32 PM ET (US)
Thanks AZdave! I'm looking forward to your pic's I use the boat the same way!
rcbrownjr posted 01-05-2013 11:07 PM ET (US)
Here are some pictures from the Riptide SP 55# I mounted on my 1986 Montauk. It sits on the Minn Kota quick release bracket for the same reasons that AZdave mentioned. The motor is plenty powerful enough for where I fish - freshwater and inshore. The Co-Pilot remote is a nice feature. The kids can fish from the front of the boat, but I can control the motor from anywhere. That comes in handy when you are untangling lines and baiting hooks.
The one thing I did not anticipate is how the motor would clear the rub rail. The bow step sits slightly below the top of the rub rail, not allowing the bracket to fully seat on the quick mount puck. I trimmed a notch out of the rub rail plastic in order to solve the issue and spread the weight/load of the motor over as much as the bow step as I could. Rock solid so far, but the rub rail has looked better. A small piece of starboard will clean that all up later.
http://s1294.beta.photobucket.com/user/rcbrownjr/library/ 1986%20BW%20Montauk%2017
Jefecinco posted 01-06-2013 10:30 AM ET (US)
RC,
Nice job. It looks like the puck could have been installed a little bit back from the rub rail but it's difficult to know if the trolling motor shaft would have cleared the rub rail if the puck was back a bit.
Thanks for the pictures. When I install a trolling motor I'll remember your pictures. My boat is sans bow rail and the boat is only used for fishing and cruising so my installation will be much simpler.
Butch
Rockrock posted 01-06-2013 11:16 AM ET (US)
Thanks rcbrownjr! Those pictures are really useful! Two quick questions. Could you explain the hocky puck method? also, I noticed you mounted a fishing chair in your locker lid. How has that worked out when you use the anchor locker and cover pad? It looks really slick! I have a chair mount I bought out of Calf. that mounts on the forward bulk head with a backing plate that goes in the anchor locker. I think the type you have may be stronger and much easier to install?
Rockrock
rcbrownjr posted 01-06-2013 06:32 PM ET (US)
Thanks. I learned a number of things mounting this motor, not all anticipated. I had hoped to mount the motor further back, but the shaft and locking collar limit the rear travel. I could have angled the motor outboard, but then the control head would be in the way when the motor isn't deployed. The prior owner had a motor with a more traditional scissor mechanism and I would have preferred to use his mounting holes. The Riptide was a trade show demo that I couldn't pass up though.
Nice spot on the chair mount. The prior owner installed that as well and it works well. Four bolts and fender washers plus a 3"+ hole for the base. It extends down into the bow locker a few inches, but doesn't hurt storage much. It is nice not to have any more holes in the hull.
The hockey puck method is a way to reinforce the fiberglass skin. Many use it to fill holes or reseat rail screws. You chuck the long end of an Allen wrench into a drill, then insert the short end into the hole you want to reinforce. Work the drill until you clear out a void behind the fiberglass. It will be about a 1" radius around the hole. Then take a syringe (I used one that came with a kid's medicine) and load it with the epoxy or resin of your choice. I used MarineTex and many use the WestSystem. Fill the void fully and let the epoxy set. Drill new pilot holes and you are ready to go. Be sure to drill the pilot holes deeper than the screw length. MarineTex can be tapped, but wood screws get a good bite too.
Good luck.
JBCornwell posted 01-14-2013 09:29 PM ET (US)
Look here, Rockrock:
I had pretty much the same ideas with Sunshine III, now owned by Ryanwhaler.
http://www.iboats.com/review_monthly/may12/may12_review_jb.html
Red sky at night. . .
JB
JBCornwell posted 01-14-2013 09:33 PM ET (US)
I have pix and other info if you need them.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
Rockrock posted 01-15-2013 11:27 PM ET (US)
Hey JB, I would love some pic's
Mark D posted 01-16-2013 06:47 AM ET (US)
Hey Rockrock. I emailed you pics of my Riptide bow-mount on my 17' Whaler.
JBCornwell posted 01-24-2013 12:56 PM ET (US)
Sent you some pix and stories, Rog.
Red sky at night. . .
JB

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Author	Topic: Bow Mount Trolling Motor
Rockrock	posted 01-01-2013 10:54 AM ET (US) Hi all and Happy New Year, I am finally going to get around to mounting a Minn Kota bow mount trolling motor on my 1989 17 Montauk. I am still deciding what model will work best.Would any one be kind enough to send me some pictures. I need to gather all the data I can before proceeding.(I don't want to mess this one up)! I am also going to mount a fishing chair on the forward bulk head. I bought a custom mount out of California a couple of years back.I would also appreciate any pics of any chair mounts you guys have installed! Thanks ahead of time for your efforts! Thanks. Roger, rogerlpayne@gmail.com
AZdave	posted 01-05-2013 11:48 AM ET (US) I'm in the middle of installing a Minn-kota Powerdrive on my 170 Montauk. It is a bit different from the classic Montauks, but I will post some pictures when finished. I needed to use that model or the Riptide model so it can be sneaked under the front rail when deployed or retrieved. I installed the plastic quick release base from Minn-kota. It is available in white, and only an unobrusive rectangular "puck" remains on the bow when the motor is removed. That seemed appropriate for swimming or tubing with barefoot kids. If you don't use the boat that way, they also make an extruded aluminum base that costs less. I didn't like the sharp edges on that model. I'll actually lake test it in a couple of days when the 3M 5200 dries.
Rockrock	posted 01-05-2013 02:32 PM ET (US) Thanks AZdave! I'm looking forward to your pic's I use the boat the same way!
rcbrownjr	posted 01-05-2013 11:07 PM ET (US) Here are some pictures from the Riptide SP 55# I mounted on my 1986 Montauk. It sits on the Minn Kota quick release bracket for the same reasons that AZdave mentioned. The motor is plenty powerful enough for where I fish - freshwater and inshore. The Co-Pilot remote is a nice feature. The kids can fish from the front of the boat, but I can control the motor from anywhere. That comes in handy when you are untangling lines and baiting hooks. The one thing I did not anticipate is how the motor would clear the rub rail. The bow step sits slightly below the top of the rub rail, not allowing the bracket to fully seat on the quick mount puck. I trimmed a notch out of the rub rail plastic in order to solve the issue and spread the weight/load of the motor over as much as the bow step as I could. Rock solid so far, but the rub rail has looked better. A small piece of starboard will clean that all up later. http://s1294.beta.photobucket.com/user/rcbrownjr/library/ 1986%20BW%20Montauk%2017
Jefecinco	posted 01-06-2013 10:30 AM ET (US) RC, Nice job. It looks like the puck could have been installed a little bit back from the rub rail but it's difficult to know if the trolling motor shaft would have cleared the rub rail if the puck was back a bit. Thanks for the pictures. When I install a trolling motor I'll remember your pictures. My boat is sans bow rail and the boat is only used for fishing and cruising so my installation will be much simpler. Butch
Rockrock	posted 01-06-2013 11:16 AM ET (US) Thanks rcbrownjr! Those pictures are really useful! Two quick questions. Could you explain the hocky puck method? also, I noticed you mounted a fishing chair in your locker lid. How has that worked out when you use the anchor locker and cover pad? It looks really slick! I have a chair mount I bought out of Calf. that mounts on the forward bulk head with a backing plate that goes in the anchor locker. I think the type you have may be stronger and much easier to install? Rockrock
rcbrownjr	posted 01-06-2013 06:32 PM ET (US) Thanks. I learned a number of things mounting this motor, not all anticipated. I had hoped to mount the motor further back, but the shaft and locking collar limit the rear travel. I could have angled the motor outboard, but then the control head would be in the way when the motor isn't deployed. The prior owner had a motor with a more traditional scissor mechanism and I would have preferred to use his mounting holes. The Riptide was a trade show demo that I couldn't pass up though. Nice spot on the chair mount. The prior owner installed that as well and it works well. Four bolts and fender washers plus a 3"+ hole for the base. It extends down into the bow locker a few inches, but doesn't hurt storage much. It is nice not to have any more holes in the hull. The hockey puck method is a way to reinforce the fiberglass skin. Many use it to fill holes or reseat rail screws. You chuck the long end of an Allen wrench into a drill, then insert the short end into the hole you want to reinforce. Work the drill until you clear out a void behind the fiberglass. It will be about a 1" radius around the hole. Then take a syringe (I used one that came with a kid's medicine) and load it with the epoxy or resin of your choice. I used MarineTex and many use the WestSystem. Fill the void fully and let the epoxy set. Drill new pilot holes and you are ready to go. Be sure to drill the pilot holes deeper than the screw length. MarineTex can be tapped, but wood screws get a good bite too. Good luck.
JBCornwell	posted 01-14-2013 09:29 PM ET (US) Look here, Rockrock: I had pretty much the same ideas with Sunshine III, now owned by Ryanwhaler. http://www.iboats.com/review_monthly/may12/may12_review_jb.html Red sky at night. . . JB
JBCornwell	posted 01-14-2013 09:33 PM ET (US) I have pix and other info if you need them. Red sky at night. . . JB
Rockrock	posted 01-15-2013 11:27 PM ET (US) Hey JB, I would love some pic's
Mark D	posted 01-16-2013 06:47 AM ET (US) Hey Rockrock. I emailed you pics of my Riptide bow-mount on my 17' Whaler.
JBCornwell	posted 01-24-2013 12:56 PM ET (US) Sent you some pix and stories, Rog. Red sky at night. . . JB