posted 03-16-2013 10:24 PM ET (US)        

Please reference this thread for some great information from Tow W Clark on part sourcing as well as some other good bits of info.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html

This procedure was performed today on my Grady-White 190 Tournament but, the process is the same for a Whaler.

First step is to remove the old tube. I use a large flat bladed screw driver and a hammer to work the flared end of the tube in toward the center. Once it is worked in, you need to them hammer it out the other side. This can be a process if you have a really bedding in tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1774_zps56a006d1.jpg?t=1363477779
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1775_zps9ebdc084.jpg?t=1363477797
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1776_zpsfbfbe65d.jpg?t=1363477793
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1778_zps1ccc7d17.jpg?t=1363477805
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1809_zps9476a567.jpg?t=1363478035

Now that the out tube is knocked out, check the wood core. Mine was dry and rock solid. Relieved!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1780_zpsd59f0d2f.jpg?t=1363477818

Next step is get the first flared end. I measured and cut (with a tubing cutter) a rough length. Now to flare. To get the brass tube to flare and flare without splitting, you have to anneal brass. I use a plumbers torch and get the tube GLOWING red hot and quence it in water.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1784_zpsaaea849d.jpg?t=1363477838
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1785_zpsf3fefac9.jpg?t=1363477858
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1786_zpsefd8284c.jpg?t=1363477864
Once quenced you, use the flaring tool set up with one of the die's facing in and the other flipped over to the flat side. This works force the die into the other end to start the flare on the other end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1791_zpsbfe32c53.jpg?t=1363477880
Tighten it down and keep going until the one end is FULLY flared.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1792_zps196f7582.jpg?t=1363477898

Now that you have a flared end, put an o-ring on the flared end and dry if the tube into the transom.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1794_zps11a54e96.jpg?t=1363477916
Once in, install 2 O-rings on the other end. This will give you the exact length you need to accept a flare on the other end. Mark the tube
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1798_zps6ef9053e.jpg?t=1363477950
Cut the tube with your tubing cutter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1799_zps9aa7712e.jpg?t=1363477953
Now anneal the other end to flare it (repeat the process above).

Installing the new tube.
I like to coat the entire wood core with 3m 4200 prior to putting the new tube in. You really do not need to do this but, I like it because it seals the wood and will keep it from ever getting wet, ever if there is a failure. The only problem is, if you have to take the tube out later down the road, it takes a lot more hammering to get it out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1800_zps00533a38.jpg?t=1363477964
Now I put a bead of 4200 along the flare and install an o-ring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1802_zpsd3cdb807.jpg?t=1363477978
Now, force the tube back into the hole. To get it all the way in you may have to put a die from the flaring tool into the end and hammer it through. Once close to all the way through, I install another bead of 4200 in front o-ring to provide a perfect seal against the gelcoat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1803_zps88e92095.jpg?t=1363477989
Now on the other end, install a bead of 4200 around the tube and the gelcoat. Install an o-ring and put another light bead around the front of the o-ring. Install the die on the inside, run the bolt through, put the nut on the other side to secure both dies in place. Now, start turning your wrenches. The inside will start to flare. Keep going until you get a complete flare and plenty of squeeze out of 4200 to ensure a water tight seal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1804_zps6115cd26.jpg?t=1363477990
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1805_zps89c65f98.jpg?t=1363478005
Besure not to over-tighten. If you do, you will force the o-ring out.

Remove the bolt and dies and clean the squeeze out of 4200 up with acetone. You are now done and should have a sealed tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1807_zps5f8ca286.jpg?t=1363478022
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/drain%20tubes/ DSC_1811_zpse36aaf91.jpg?t=1363478051

Hope this helps..

Cheers,
Jeff