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Author Topic:   1988 15 Super Sport

Tom C posted 06-03-2013 04:37 PM ET (US)
I may sell my 130 Sport and doing the two-foot thing. The boat I am looking at has the extra wood of a Super Sport but also has bow and stern pedestal fishing seats. The fishing seats look OEM. The package is all 1988. The trailer is okay but looks its age. The 60-HP Johnson still has the VRO and runs strong. The hull has no bottom paint and no apparent damage. Gel coat is good with no extra holes. The cushions are usable but not pretty. The wood is all there and appears solid but it has been neglected. It would need removing and refinishing. There are no electronics nor canvas. The wiring looks old. The Bow rail and all chrome is okay. The owner has had the boat since 1991 with very few hours per year. Now for the big questions: What is this package worth? How much effort is involved in refinishing all the wood? Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Tom
mkelly posted 06-03-2013 09:46 PM ET (US)
I'm in Seattle. I bought a 15' center console out of Oregon for $6,200. It is all 1986 package (70 HP Johnson). The 15's are very easy to work on. You can readily access any part of the boat without much effort. I would think removing the wood, sanding, and clear varnish wouldn't be that big of deal. There are also vendors who sell replacement pieces, both wood and synthetic. I painted the bottom without much effort. Also pulled the bench seat and rails, and installed two pedestal seats to make for easy access getting around the boat and into the stern, if you wish. [The 15-footer is] one of my favorite Whaler hulls, and it is so much more fun than the 13-footer. [The 15-footer] also rides much better in the chop. I also painted the non-skid floor with a sand and epoxy base. It turned out okay; probably have to re-do it again this year. As far as the fiberglass, mine needs some work but I'm okay with it imperfect, as we use it on and off the beach, and it's difficult to keep clean. I'm getting a few photos sent along. Email me your email address; I'll send them along.
dgoodhue posted 06-04-2013 05:06 PM ET (US)
A fair price is probably $5,000 to $6,000.
A 60 if mounted two-holes-up or three-holes-up will do about 40-MPH, which is faster than your 130 SPORT. Many of the OMC motor of that era were mounted too low with blind holes. A 1988 60-HP Johnson can be upgraded to 70-HP by changing carburetor, if you desire more speed. I personally love my 15-footer. The biggest draw back is its seating position.
I don't know if you have checked out a classic 15-footer, but it narrower than a new 130's. The 130's do a good job of cleaning up cockpit with a battery and tank under the seat, so you may not gain much interior room. The advertised weight of he hull of the 130 is slightly high than the 15-footer, as well. I still would rather have a classic 15-footer.
1oldman posted 06-04-2013 06:16 PM ET (US)
I just bought 1984 SPORT with a 1987 Johnson 40-HP. The hull is in very good shape, but wood is shot. Trailer is galvanized drive-on in good shape. Bunk wood is good but needs new carpet. The motor runs great but has no tilt and trim. Pushes the boat 33-MPH according to a handheld GPS receiver.
My plans are to remove all wood and convert to center console. Add a MK trolling motor to the bow. The two batteries will be moved under the front seat part of the console, and a 19-gallon fuel tank mounted under the console. I will be adding an aftermarket trim and tilt to the motor. I have a Humminbird 998si for the console and a Humminbird 597hd di for the bow.
I paid $3,500 for the rig.
Steve
Tom C posted 06-04-2013 08:20 PM ET (US)
Thanks to all for your replies. My main concern is refinishing the wood. I have the time but my skills are questionable. I realize that my 130 SS is three inches wider beam than a 15 classic and about the same weight, but I understand the 15 is a better ride and also faster. I also like this boat because of the fishing seats. The owner has not set a price at this time but indicated he was ready to sell. Do I understand that the OMC 60-HP is the same as the 70-HP except for the carburetorss? Are they both three cylinder?
dgoodhue posted 06-04-2013 11:06 PM ET (US)
I went through the Evinrude parts catalog and only could find the carburetors being different. I have an 1989 60-HP and gained 3 to 4-MPH and faster acceleration by adding 70-HP carburetors.
jimh posted 06-05-2013 09:03 AM ET (US)
The original thwart seats are the worst part of the classic SPORT 15. Practically everyone changes the seating to something more comfortable.
Jamesgt727 posted 06-08-2013 10:57 AM ET (US)
Tom, what you are describing sounds like my 15 when I originally purchased it (Dec. 2011). Sounds like the only difference was mine had a trolling motor on the bow. I purchased for $3,700, and I let the owner keep both motors, Bimini, to deliver it. There was nothing wrong with the motor, I just had a motor already. The wood refinishing is a time consuming process, from the respect of drying time.
I watched a series of professionals do new parts of my interior, and they sanded the wood planks flat by hand, then stained (optional) and varnished. All the work was done by hand, varnishing was done with a brush, 24 hr dry, block sand with 320, repeat. Repeat until there are no ripples on the surface when you block sand it. I think the majority of the parts recieved 10 coats of varnish. Most people do less. I am not sure if its good to do or not, or even necessary, but the shipwright who did mine finished all of the wood surfaces with an single heavy coat of Acrylic that was sprayed, wet sanded, then buffed.
I helped a few days, so I learned the basics of the process, I believe that I could do it again, it's a fairly straightforward process with no special skills or tools, just patience. If you have a pro do it, get a flat fee going in, or your costs will quickly compare to the cost of buying a new prefinished interior online.
Tom C posted 12-03-2013 06:11 PM ET (US)
Well I bought the boat and will pick it up on Friday. Since it is 250 miles away I am taking a new set of tires mounted on wheels and have my fingers crossed that the lug bolts are not frozen. I am also taking a pretty full tool box. The seller says he has a bimini top that he never installed and I have not seen. Hope it is a Mills. I feel like I got the package for a good price but will not know until I get into the project. Will be asking for help as the restoration progresses.
PeteB88 posted 12-03-2013 09:04 PM ET (US)
I'd love to see photos of the wood. Whaler wood can look terrible but it is quite easy to restore if you follow procedure. There is plenty of information posted in archives by me and other very capable members familiar and experienced with marine wood finishing and restoration. The quality of the original wood is incredible therefore serious reason why it's always best to give redo a shot. Best case can be (not always) if all finish has peeled away leaving weathered, checked wood surface. If that's the case you might not have to strip the old finish at all.
Send some photos to my email address in profile if you want to and peruse the reference section. Getting the right materials, tools and finish products it is not hard at all and you will save money. Good luck.
Tom C posted 12-05-2013 04:17 PM ET (US)
Pete, Thanks for your words of encouragement. I saw the boat this morning and feel good about the project. A friend and I got the new wheels on the trailer and it looks better already. Took some pictures of the "before" and will try to send you some when I get back home. Hope we do not have any suprises on the trip back.
Ferdinando posted 12-05-2013 08:57 PM ET (US)
Tom:
My Dad and I purchased a brand new 15 SS in 1985. We paid $9,600 for it with a 70 Rude on the stern. It was a great boat with lot's of memories with my father. I re-did all the wood 12 years after I bought it, I took off the wood myself and brought it to a guy who works with cabinets. He did a hell of a job and only charged me about 100 bucks.
Even after 10 years of use I was being asked if I just pulled the boat out of the store, when I told those people that it was 10 years old they would not believe me.
I sold it after 13 years in 1998 for $10,000 although it did have a brand new trailer. Went out and bought me a new 17'.
If it were not for the seating I probably would have kept her and she still would have looked brand new!, Damn do I miss that boat!!!!
Fred
Tom C posted 12-12-2013 06:37 PM ET (US)
I got the boat home last Friday. The trip was uneventual except for stoping every 50 or so miles to give the wheel bearings a shot of grease. I have started removing the wood and all the suprises have been bad. There are several boards rotted where attached to the boat bottom as well as the starboard riser where the motor controls are attached. Also the 15 gal.under the seat gas tank turned out to be a fiber glass Pate. The hull is still dirty but appears solid. Very few spider cracks. The steering is locked and I'm not sure how to deal with it. The project continues.
sosmerc posted 12-14-2013 08:54 PM ET (US)
" The steering is locked and I'm not sure how to deal with it."
I deal with that quite alot in my business. Was the engine parked with the majority of the steering cable rod still protruding out of the tilt tube on the Port side? (hard right turn)
Step one is to disconnect the end of the cable from the "drag link".....that's the bar that connects to the front of the engine and connects to the end of the steering cable.
With the drag link disconnected from the cable, does the engine swing freely from side to side? If so, then we know the problem is the cable itself.
Clamp 2 pairs of vice-grips to the end of the steering cable and attempt to twist the cable back and forth while someone else tries to turn the steering wheel back and forth with some force, BUT NOT TOO MUCH force. If the cable begins to allow some movement, then disconnect the steering cable from the starboard side where it enter the engine tilt tube. While continuing to twist back and forth with the vice grips, also try to work the end of the cable into the tilt tube just enough to get some separation from the steering cable attaching nut and the tube. Then, use fluid film or wd-40 or LPS and spray back into the void in the tilt tube and try and saturate the inside of the tube. DO NOT pound or force the end of the cable sticking out the portside back into the tube.
But slowly work it back and forth an in and out and let the fluid film work it's magic. When you eventually get it loose, the pull the cable complete out of the tilt tube and commence cleaning the inside of the tilt tube. I use a large drill bit that is precisely the same size as the inside diameter of the tube. Saturate the inside of the tube with fluid film before re-installing the cable. If you were to perform this service on an annual basis, you will never have another stuck steering cable.
dgoodhue posted 12-14-2013 11:45 PM ET (US)
I wish I had sosmerc's advice before I ruined my steering system. It seems like I made everyone of his 'do nots'.
macfam posted 12-15-2013 10:50 AM ET (US)
Sosmerc is right on the money!
The problem plagued me years ago. The solution for me was after everything was free moving and cleaned, I installed a "Steersman Nut" on the port side where the steering comes through the tilt tube. BINGO!
I have done this to several outboards, and that kept everything smooth and easy for many seasons. NEVER froze again, PERIOD.
Cheap money. Problem solved.
Tom C posted 12-19-2013 06:18 PM ET (US)
Thank all for advice and help. Sosmerc, you give great advice but I'm having difficulty understanding some of the terms. First, I am trying to loosen the nut on the starboard side of the motor that attaches the steering cable. This is a silver nut and is on the steering cable. There is another nut just to the motor side of the frozen nut and I can get it to turn but it binds against the frozen nut before it releases from the engine. I know this is step one and I'll be asking for more help before this is over. Any suggestions short of going to the repair shop?
Binkster posted 12-20-2013 11:40 AM ET (US)
Hey, 1oldman, its been 6 months since you mentioned in your post you were about to convert your 15 footer you just bought to a center console. How are you coming along.
rich
sosmerc posted 12-25-2013 05:30 PM ET (US)
If the nut holding the cable onto the tilt tube is tight...try heating it with a heat gun, or with a propane torch. Concentrate the heat on the nut...stay away from the plastic "jacket" on the cable. Have your crescent wrench pre-adjusted and at the ready to loosen the nut once it starts to ease up from the heat. You may have to keep heating it a bit more as you go.
Tom C posted 01-04-2014 10:00 AM ET (US)
Pete, I sent wood pictures to your email address. Did you get them and what do you think?
Tom C posted 01-14-2014 07:40 PM ET (US)
I am finding this project is probably more than I anticipated. Have started on the wood and found it to be more solid than expected. The old varnish is solid as a rock but is only on the unexposed wood. The exposed side has no finish so there I am only sanding wood. Am using a palm and orbital sander with 100 grit. Tried using a chemical stripper but it really does not work that well. Will have to have a couple of pieces replaced because of rot. Also trying to figure out how to raise the console and pilot's seat 2-4 inches. Any help will be appreciated.
stayinstrewn posted 01-17-2014 10:18 AM ET (US)
Tom...stop messing around w 100...to get that old varnish off, go straight to 60, but be rue to keep the orbital moving at all times! Once you hit bare wood, move along, then when the whole board is bare wood, then go to 120, 180, etc as you're now in actual pre-varnish prep mode....
Oh, to raise your interior, buy new risers that at 11-12" wide then cut a slot in the middle, about 3" up and voila, there's your higher mounted seat...now to raise your console....
Good luck!
Tom C posted 02-08-2014 01:18 PM ET (US)
Thanks to all of you for help and good information on this project. With your information and the help of a friend the hull has been completely stripped except for motor and bow rail. The steering is loose and the cable works fine. The wood has all been rough sanded and only a few pieces have to be replaced. My plan is to raise the console and pilot seat by 3". I stopped sanding before the wood got down to new looking as I liked the some what dark look. Had a local cabinet maker advise me on the appearance. Will start on the finish sanding next week. Then I need some warmer weather so I can start working on some very dirty and dull gelcote.

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Author	Topic: 1988 15 Super Sport
Tom C	posted 06-03-2013 04:37 PM ET (US) I may sell my 130 Sport and doing the two-foot thing. The boat I am looking at has the extra wood of a Super Sport but also has bow and stern pedestal fishing seats. The fishing seats look OEM. The package is all 1988. The trailer is okay but looks its age. The 60-HP Johnson still has the VRO and runs strong. The hull has no bottom paint and no apparent damage. Gel coat is good with no extra holes. The cushions are usable but not pretty. The wood is all there and appears solid but it has been neglected. It would need removing and refinishing. There are no electronics nor canvas. The wiring looks old. The Bow rail and all chrome is okay. The owner has had the boat since 1991 with very few hours per year. Now for the big questions: What is this package worth? How much effort is involved in refinishing all the wood? Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Tom
mkelly	posted 06-03-2013 09:46 PM ET (US) I'm in Seattle. I bought a 15' center console out of Oregon for $6,200. It is all 1986 package (70 HP Johnson). The 15's are very easy to work on. You can readily access any part of the boat without much effort. I would think removing the wood, sanding, and clear varnish wouldn't be that big of deal. There are also vendors who sell replacement pieces, both wood and synthetic. I painted the bottom without much effort. Also pulled the bench seat and rails, and installed two pedestal seats to make for easy access getting around the boat and into the stern, if you wish. [The 15-footer is] one of my favorite Whaler hulls, and it is so much more fun than the 13-footer. [The 15-footer] also rides much better in the chop. I also painted the non-skid floor with a sand and epoxy base. It turned out okay; probably have to re-do it again this year. As far as the fiberglass, mine needs some work but I'm okay with it imperfect, as we use it on and off the beach, and it's difficult to keep clean. I'm getting a few photos sent along. Email me your email address; I'll send them along.
dgoodhue	posted 06-04-2013 05:06 PM ET (US) A fair price is probably $5,000 to $6,000. A 60 if mounted two-holes-up or three-holes-up will do about 40-MPH, which is faster than your 130 SPORT. Many of the OMC motor of that era were mounted too low with blind holes. A 1988 60-HP Johnson can be upgraded to 70-HP by changing carburetor, if you desire more speed. I personally love my 15-footer. The biggest draw back is its seating position. I don't know if you have checked out a classic 15-footer, but it narrower than a new 130's. The 130's do a good job of cleaning up cockpit with a battery and tank under the seat, so you may not gain much interior room. The advertised weight of he hull of the 130 is slightly high than the 15-footer, as well. I still would rather have a classic 15-footer.
1oldman	posted 06-04-2013 06:16 PM ET (US) I just bought 1984 SPORT with a 1987 Johnson 40-HP. The hull is in very good shape, but wood is shot. Trailer is galvanized drive-on in good shape. Bunk wood is good but needs new carpet. The motor runs great but has no tilt and trim. Pushes the boat 33-MPH according to a handheld GPS receiver. My plans are to remove all wood and convert to center console. Add a MK trolling motor to the bow. The two batteries will be moved under the front seat part of the console, and a 19-gallon fuel tank mounted under the console. I will be adding an aftermarket trim and tilt to the motor. I have a Humminbird 998si for the console and a Humminbird 597hd di for the bow. I paid $3,500 for the rig. Steve
Tom C	posted 06-04-2013 08:20 PM ET (US) Thanks to all for your replies. My main concern is refinishing the wood. I have the time but my skills are questionable. I realize that my 130 SS is three inches wider beam than a 15 classic and about the same weight, but I understand the 15 is a better ride and also faster. I also like this boat because of the fishing seats. The owner has not set a price at this time but indicated he was ready to sell. Do I understand that the OMC 60-HP is the same as the 70-HP except for the carburetorss? Are they both three cylinder?
dgoodhue	posted 06-04-2013 11:06 PM ET (US) I went through the Evinrude parts catalog and only could find the carburetors being different. I have an 1989 60-HP and gained 3 to 4-MPH and faster acceleration by adding 70-HP carburetors.
jimh	posted 06-05-2013 09:03 AM ET (US) The original thwart seats are the worst part of the classic SPORT 15. Practically everyone changes the seating to something more comfortable.
Jamesgt727	posted 06-08-2013 10:57 AM ET (US) Tom, what you are describing sounds like my 15 when I originally purchased it (Dec. 2011). Sounds like the only difference was mine had a trolling motor on the bow. I purchased for $3,700, and I let the owner keep both motors, Bimini, to deliver it. There was nothing wrong with the motor, I just had a motor already. The wood refinishing is a time consuming process, from the respect of drying time. I watched a series of professionals do new parts of my interior, and they sanded the wood planks flat by hand, then stained (optional) and varnished. All the work was done by hand, varnishing was done with a brush, 24 hr dry, block sand with 320, repeat. Repeat until there are no ripples on the surface when you block sand it. I think the majority of the parts recieved 10 coats of varnish. Most people do less. I am not sure if its good to do or not, or even necessary, but the shipwright who did mine finished all of the wood surfaces with an single heavy coat of Acrylic that was sprayed, wet sanded, then buffed. I helped a few days, so I learned the basics of the process, I believe that I could do it again, it's a fairly straightforward process with no special skills or tools, just patience. If you have a pro do it, get a flat fee going in, or your costs will quickly compare to the cost of buying a new prefinished interior online.
Tom C	posted 12-03-2013 06:11 PM ET (US) Well I bought the boat and will pick it up on Friday. Since it is 250 miles away I am taking a new set of tires mounted on wheels and have my fingers crossed that the lug bolts are not frozen. I am also taking a pretty full tool box. The seller says he has a bimini top that he never installed and I have not seen. Hope it is a Mills. I feel like I got the package for a good price but will not know until I get into the project. Will be asking for help as the restoration progresses.
PeteB88	posted 12-03-2013 09:04 PM ET (US) I'd love to see photos of the wood. Whaler wood can look terrible but it is quite easy to restore if you follow procedure. There is plenty of information posted in archives by me and other very capable members familiar and experienced with marine wood finishing and restoration. The quality of the original wood is incredible therefore serious reason why it's always best to give redo a shot. Best case can be (not always) if all finish has peeled away leaving weathered, checked wood surface. If that's the case you might not have to strip the old finish at all. Send some photos to my email address in profile if you want to and peruse the reference section. Getting the right materials, tools and finish products it is not hard at all and you will save money. Good luck.
Tom C	posted 12-05-2013 04:17 PM ET (US) Pete, Thanks for your words of encouragement. I saw the boat this morning and feel good about the project. A friend and I got the new wheels on the trailer and it looks better already. Took some pictures of the "before" and will try to send you some when I get back home. Hope we do not have any suprises on the trip back.
Ferdinando	posted 12-05-2013 08:57 PM ET (US) Tom: My Dad and I purchased a brand new 15 SS in 1985. We paid $9,600 for it with a 70 Rude on the stern. It was a great boat with lot's of memories with my father. I re-did all the wood 12 years after I bought it, I took off the wood myself and brought it to a guy who works with cabinets. He did a hell of a job and only charged me about 100 bucks. Even after 10 years of use I was being asked if I just pulled the boat out of the store, when I told those people that it was 10 years old they would not believe me. I sold it after 13 years in 1998 for $10,000 although it did have a brand new trailer. Went out and bought me a new 17'. If it were not for the seating I probably would have kept her and she still would have looked brand new!, Damn do I miss that boat!!!! Fred
Tom C	posted 12-12-2013 06:37 PM ET (US) I got the boat home last Friday. The trip was uneventual except for stoping every 50 or so miles to give the wheel bearings a shot of grease. I have started removing the wood and all the suprises have been bad. There are several boards rotted where attached to the boat bottom as well as the starboard riser where the motor controls are attached. Also the 15 gal.under the seat gas tank turned out to be a fiber glass Pate. The hull is still dirty but appears solid. Very few spider cracks. The steering is locked and I'm not sure how to deal with it. The project continues.
sosmerc	posted 12-14-2013 08:54 PM ET (US) " The steering is locked and I'm not sure how to deal with it." I deal with that quite alot in my business. Was the engine parked with the majority of the steering cable rod still protruding out of the tilt tube on the Port side? (hard right turn) Step one is to disconnect the end of the cable from the "drag link".....that's the bar that connects to the front of the engine and connects to the end of the steering cable. With the drag link disconnected from the cable, does the engine swing freely from side to side? If so, then we know the problem is the cable itself. Clamp 2 pairs of vice-grips to the end of the steering cable and attempt to twist the cable back and forth while someone else tries to turn the steering wheel back and forth with some force, BUT NOT TOO MUCH force. If the cable begins to allow some movement, then disconnect the steering cable from the starboard side where it enter the engine tilt tube. While continuing to twist back and forth with the vice grips, also try to work the end of the cable into the tilt tube just enough to get some separation from the steering cable attaching nut and the tube. Then, use fluid film or wd-40 or LPS and spray back into the void in the tilt tube and try and saturate the inside of the tube. DO NOT pound or force the end of the cable sticking out the portside back into the tube. But slowly work it back and forth an in and out and let the fluid film work it's magic. When you eventually get it loose, the pull the cable complete out of the tilt tube and commence cleaning the inside of the tilt tube. I use a large drill bit that is precisely the same size as the inside diameter of the tube. Saturate the inside of the tube with fluid film before re-installing the cable. If you were to perform this service on an annual basis, you will never have another stuck steering cable.
dgoodhue	posted 12-14-2013 11:45 PM ET (US) I wish I had sosmerc's advice before I ruined my steering system. It seems like I made everyone of his 'do nots'.
macfam	posted 12-15-2013 10:50 AM ET (US) Sosmerc is right on the money! The problem plagued me years ago. The solution for me was after everything was free moving and cleaned, I installed a "Steersman Nut" on the port side where the steering comes through the tilt tube. BINGO! I have done this to several outboards, and that kept everything smooth and easy for many seasons. NEVER froze again, PERIOD. Cheap money. Problem solved.
Tom C	posted 12-19-2013 06:18 PM ET (US) Thank all for advice and help. Sosmerc, you give great advice but I'm having difficulty understanding some of the terms. First, I am trying to loosen the nut on the starboard side of the motor that attaches the steering cable. This is a silver nut and is on the steering cable. There is another nut just to the motor side of the frozen nut and I can get it to turn but it binds against the frozen nut before it releases from the engine. I know this is step one and I'll be asking for more help before this is over. Any suggestions short of going to the repair shop?
Binkster	posted 12-20-2013 11:40 AM ET (US) Hey, 1oldman, its been 6 months since you mentioned in your post you were about to convert your 15 footer you just bought to a center console. How are you coming along. rich
sosmerc	posted 12-25-2013 05:30 PM ET (US) If the nut holding the cable onto the tilt tube is tight...try heating it with a heat gun, or with a propane torch. Concentrate the heat on the nut...stay away from the plastic "jacket" on the cable. Have your crescent wrench pre-adjusted and at the ready to loosen the nut once it starts to ease up from the heat. You may have to keep heating it a bit more as you go.
Tom C	posted 01-04-2014 10:00 AM ET (US) Pete, I sent wood pictures to your email address. Did you get them and what do you think?
Tom C	posted 01-14-2014 07:40 PM ET (US) I am finding this project is probably more than I anticipated. Have started on the wood and found it to be more solid than expected. The old varnish is solid as a rock but is only on the unexposed wood. The exposed side has no finish so there I am only sanding wood. Am using a palm and orbital sander with 100 grit. Tried using a chemical stripper but it really does not work that well. Will have to have a couple of pieces replaced because of rot. Also trying to figure out how to raise the console and pilot's seat 2-4 inches. Any help will be appreciated.
stayinstrewn	posted 01-17-2014 10:18 AM ET (US) Tom...stop messing around w 100...to get that old varnish off, go straight to 60, but be rue to keep the orbital moving at all times! Once you hit bare wood, move along, then when the whole board is bare wood, then go to 120, 180, etc as you're now in actual pre-varnish prep mode.... Oh, to raise your interior, buy new risers that at 11-12" wide then cut a slot in the middle, about 3" up and voila, there's your higher mounted seat...now to raise your console.... Good luck!
Tom C	posted 02-08-2014 01:18 PM ET (US) Thanks to all of you for help and good information on this project. With your information and the help of a friend the hull has been completely stripped except for motor and bow rail. The steering is loose and the cable works fine. The wood has all been rough sanded and only a few pieces have to be replaced. My plan is to raise the console and pilot seat by 3". I stopped sanding before the wood got down to new looking as I liked the some what dark look. Had a local cabinet maker advise me on the appearance. Will start on the finish sanding next week. Then I need some warmer weather so I can start working on some very dirty and dull gelcote.