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Author Topic:   Soap to Clean Dirty Decks

jimh posted 06-22-2013 12:33 AM ET (US)
A thread about soap to clean dirt from dirty decks>
EaglesPDX posted 06-21-2013 06:05 PM ET (US)
In looking at the construction [pictures in another thread discussing the design and installation of arches on classic Boston Whaler boats], the deck looks like it got real dirty (like mine is now). What did you use to clean up the floor after doing all the work?
martinmarine posted 06-21-2013 08:17 PM ET (US)
I always use ORPINE brand soap to clean up after a build. For stubborn stains in non-skid, I like to use a stiff bristle brush and a bit of Comet. And, I always have a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on hand. The cleaning power of that little eraser pad truly is magical for all surfaces including your upholstery!
jimh posted 06-22-2013 12:36 AM ET (US)
Bar Keeper's Friend.
swist posted 06-22-2013 07:38 AM ET (US)
The citrus-based "green" soaps seem to work surprisingly well on gelcoat, nonskid, and elsewhere for general-purpose cleaning.
I'm skeptical - usually "biodegradable" or "environmentally friendly" means "Doesn't work very well". Not in this case.
jlh49 posted 06-22-2013 09:03 AM ET (US)
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is very good, and Bon Ami also does a real good job without grooving the finish.
EaglesPDX posted 06-22-2013 01:39 PM ET (US)
Excellent!
Thanks.
Off to get all of the above, new engines, new seats, new T-Top...deck has taken a licking.
Especially liked the Comet suggestion...old school.
L H G posted 06-22-2013 03:54 PM ET (US)
If you want to keep your gelcoat with original factory gloss, the recommendations to use Comet(yikes!), BonAmi or Bar Keeper Friend, are terrible and destructive. If you want a clean, dulled (finely scratched) finish, fine, but otherwise you should not even have ANY of these products in your home, let alone a fiberglass gelcoated boat. All contain harsh abrasives. SoftScrub could be added to this list.
For maintaining shiny gelcoat, smooth or non-skid surface, use only liquid cleaners without abrasives.
jimh posted 06-22-2013 04:33 PM ET (US)
I do not want a slick, highly polished, waxed, glossy, slippery surface on my non-skid deck. I want a non-skid deck. I don't use high-abrasive cleaners on the hull gel coat, but I have used them on non-skid deck surfaces to get out some really bad dirt and stains. It is the same kind of approach to the wooden surfaces of my boat that may be walked on. I keep the finish natural with oil, not coated with a dozen layers of varnish. I expect people to walk on that wood, and the same with the non-skid deck. It does not have to shine and gleam in the sun. It is a non-skid surface.
jimh posted 06-22-2013 04:49 PM ET (US)
A brush with stiff bristles is also usually effective at getting into the recesses of the non-skid deck pattern.
jimh posted 06-22-2013 04:53 PM ET (US)
By the way, once you get the stains and dirt out of the deck non-skid, you can, if you want, apply polish, buff the deck to a gloss, and apply a protective wax finish. The existence of deep dirt and stains more or less indicates that there was not much of a finish on the deck in the first place. If you don't use your boat very much, and you keep the deck polished and waxed, you may be able to rinse off most dirt with a light spray of water and mild soap. The best way to keep the deck from getting really dirty is to clean it every day the boat is in use. I find that getting away from land makes the deck stay cleaner. If we are out in the boat, away from marinas and their dirty docks, the boat deck stays much cleaner.
For boat soap I have found 3M BOAT SOAP to be a good choice, It is provided as a concentrate, and you can select the dilution with water to suit the job.
Whalrman posted 06-22-2013 05:25 PM ET (US)
I use a liquid soap concentrate from West Marine called Boat Yard soap. Works great on non-skid decks and you can mix the soap to the strength you want. A good stiff scrub brush helps too.
martinmarine posted 06-22-2013 05:35 PM ET (US)
We do not use COMET on the entire boat! Usually there is a small stubborn stain in the non-skid, that nothing else will touch. Comet does a great job removing these stains and won't destroy the non-skid.
Jefecinco posted 06-22-2013 07:24 PM ET (US)
There is a product called "Deck Cleaner" marketed by Starbrite?? It cleans decks fairly well. I sometimes augment the deck cleaner with a power washer. The combination is always successful.
Butch
EaglesPDX posted 06-22-2013 08:15 PM ET (US)

quote:
We do not use COMET on the entire boat! Usually there is a small stubborn stain in the non-skid, that nothing else will touch. Comet does a great job removing these stains and won't destroy the non-skid.
Exactly what I want it for...thanks.
Also like the idea of once I get it clean putting some sealant on without making the non-skid too slippery but preventing the dirt from getting in the deck.
jlh49 posted 06-23-2013 08:55 AM ET (US)
From Wikipedia: "...Bon Ami, French for "Good Friend", is a brand of household cleaner products sold by the Faultless Starch/Bon Ami Company of Kansas City, Missouri, USA. The product's slogan is "Hasn't Scratched Yet!" referring to the fact that it does not scratch surfaces. The Bon Ami mascot, a chick emerging from an egg, is a play on the slogan (the newly-hatched chick hasn't scratched the ground for worms and insects)..."
As indicated above, a deck is a non-skid surface, not a highly glossed finish, and is intended to be walked on. I have used it to remove very stubborn stains on smooth surfaces, but always have to re-wax and polish afterwards.
wannabe posted 06-23-2013 09:08 AM ET (US)
I use a deck cleaner with PTEK and it is quite effective for most dirt and stains. I have found that Simple Green has dirt raising abilities also. You can walk anywhere on my boat except on the wood as it might result in a quick loss of footing.
Drew
andygere posted 06-24-2013 01:31 AM ET (US)
Simple Green is effective on the basic deck grime. Tough stains like dried fish blood or rust get scrubbed with a bit of Bar Keeper's Friend. My boat gets used, and the deck gets dirty. The liquids don't do a thing on these difficult stains. Perhaps they work well for museum boats that get a bit of dust on them over time...
Binkster posted 06-24-2013 12:42 PM ET (US)
COMET, that stuff will destroy anything. Back in the late '50's my buddy's dad had a 55 Ford convertible, it was aqua and cream, with matching vinyl seats that looked like leather. Well, the seats got a little dirty looking, so my buddy decided to clean them using COMET, a brush and water. Wow, the seats looked like new, his dad was real happy with his son. A month later, the bleach or whatever is in Comet rotted the stitching, it was rolled and pleated, and the seats literally fell apart. The car got traded in, and my buddy never drove the new one.
I never used Comet since.
rich
wldrns1 posted 06-25-2013 07:05 AM ET (US)
Here's my nonskid story for those interested or with a similar problem.
I have a 2008 150 Sport. Has a very aggressive nonskid pattern made up of very small diamonds, each of which are rough when viewed under magnification.
No, I'm not crazy or [compulsive], but I've always hated this surface due to abrasive feel and major difficulty cleaning. I'd love to have the larger pattern my 1968 13' had.
Decided best option was to finish-sand it some with my orbital. Carefully worked to go deep enough to eliminate the embedded dirt in the rough tops, making each top smooth. Ultimately ended up enlarging the tops of each diamond about x2. The sidewalls of each are still rough but I know of no relatively easy way to smooth them off.
Started with 400 wet or dry. I went VERY slow and checked my work with magnification. Soon switched to 200 once I got the feel for the job. 200 wet or dry can be found at car parts stores. H Depot and Lowes don't carry it. I used 2 full sheet cut in 1/4's to fit sander. A new piece works well with no pressure but as the sheet surface breaks down, more pressure is needed. Depending on how fast one wants to go will determine how often to change to a new piece.

The entire interior was done sanding in about 4-6 hrs, making all diamond tops smooth/enlarging each about 2x of the unsanded initial size. If I ever sand it again, it'll be with 400 as the 200 might be too fast. Better safe than sorry.
Next was cleaning. I have tried every product on this board with the exception of Barkeepers Friend. Looking with the magnifier, I found a medium stiff bristle 'iron-shaped' brush whose bristles are small enough to get a few between the non skid pattern. (I wish I could find a stiff brush whose bristles each taper to a point) Oh well.
I have not found a better, more effective and thorough cleaner than Collinite 920 & brush. There's that word again. Collinite. It was quick and very effective. Scrub in the direction of the lined up diamonds (both directions) to keep the bristles in contact with the tapered diamond sidewalls. Rinse. There was a HUGE improvement with ease-of-cleaning after sanding. Feels much better too but still a very effective nonskid surface. I used a 50/50 solution of 920 and water frequently shaken in another container. I'd put my thumb over the container opening and just let drops of the 50/50 solution get out. If you never tried 920, do it. Please post your opinion if your a Barkeepers Friend fan.
Next I used Woody Wax (another frequent name) as directed on the container.
READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR NO SKID SURFACES!
Didn't spend much time buffing with a towel. The interior looks 'showroom'. It really does.
After finishing the job, the boat was outside in the rain. My wife asked 'Aren't you going to pull it in the garage?' I replied 'It's a boat. It's supposed to get wet!' All I wanted was to make for easier cleaning and have a surface that wasn't so harsh. Mission accomplished!
weekendwarrior posted 06-27-2013 08:33 PM ET (US)
My non-skid sometimes gets mildew in it (in hot and humid Florida, boat lives under a cover). This looks like dirt, but is mildew. You're not supposed to use bleach, but I have yet to find anything more effective at cleaning dirty/mildew non-skid than bleach and a stiff brush. I don't use it very often for fear of what it does to the gelcoat, but it comes out really clean.

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Author	Topic: Soap to Clean Dirty Decks
jimh	posted 06-22-2013 12:33 AM ET (US) A thread about soap to clean dirt from dirty decks>
EaglesPDX	posted 06-21-2013 06:05 PM ET (US) In looking at the construction [pictures in another thread discussing the design and installation of arches on classic Boston Whaler boats], the deck looks like it got real dirty (like mine is now). What did you use to clean up the floor after doing all the work?
martinmarine	posted 06-21-2013 08:17 PM ET (US) I always use ORPINE brand soap to clean up after a build. For stubborn stains in non-skid, I like to use a stiff bristle brush and a bit of Comet. And, I always have a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on hand. The cleaning power of that little eraser pad truly is magical for all surfaces including your upholstery!
jimh	posted 06-22-2013 12:36 AM ET (US) Bar Keeper's Friend.
swist	posted 06-22-2013 07:38 AM ET (US) The citrus-based "green" soaps seem to work surprisingly well on gelcoat, nonskid, and elsewhere for general-purpose cleaning. I'm skeptical - usually "biodegradable" or "environmentally friendly" means "Doesn't work very well". Not in this case.
jlh49	posted 06-22-2013 09:03 AM ET (US) Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is very good, and Bon Ami also does a real good job without grooving the finish.
EaglesPDX	posted 06-22-2013 01:39 PM ET (US) Excellent! Thanks. Off to get all of the above, new engines, new seats, new T-Top...deck has taken a licking. Especially liked the Comet suggestion...old school.
L H G	posted 06-22-2013 03:54 PM ET (US) If you want to keep your gelcoat with original factory gloss, the recommendations to use Comet(yikes!), BonAmi or Bar Keeper Friend, are terrible and destructive. If you want a clean, dulled (finely scratched) finish, fine, but otherwise you should not even have ANY of these products in your home, let alone a fiberglass gelcoated boat. All contain harsh abrasives. SoftScrub could be added to this list. For maintaining shiny gelcoat, smooth or non-skid surface, use only liquid cleaners without abrasives.
jimh	posted 06-22-2013 04:33 PM ET (US) I do not want a slick, highly polished, waxed, glossy, slippery surface on my non-skid deck. I want a non-skid deck. I don't use high-abrasive cleaners on the hull gel coat, but I have used them on non-skid deck surfaces to get out some really bad dirt and stains. It is the same kind of approach to the wooden surfaces of my boat that may be walked on. I keep the finish natural with oil, not coated with a dozen layers of varnish. I expect people to walk on that wood, and the same with the non-skid deck. It does not have to shine and gleam in the sun. It is a non-skid surface.
jimh	posted 06-22-2013 04:49 PM ET (US) A brush with stiff bristles is also usually effective at getting into the recesses of the non-skid deck pattern.
jimh	posted 06-22-2013 04:53 PM ET (US) By the way, once you get the stains and dirt out of the deck non-skid, you can, if you want, apply polish, buff the deck to a gloss, and apply a protective wax finish. The existence of deep dirt and stains more or less indicates that there was not much of a finish on the deck in the first place. If you don't use your boat very much, and you keep the deck polished and waxed, you may be able to rinse off most dirt with a light spray of water and mild soap. The best way to keep the deck from getting really dirty is to clean it every day the boat is in use. I find that getting away from land makes the deck stay cleaner. If we are out in the boat, away from marinas and their dirty docks, the boat deck stays much cleaner. For boat soap I have found 3M BOAT SOAP to be a good choice, It is provided as a concentrate, and you can select the dilution with water to suit the job.
Whalrman	posted 06-22-2013 05:25 PM ET (US) I use a liquid soap concentrate from West Marine called Boat Yard soap. Works great on non-skid decks and you can mix the soap to the strength you want. A good stiff scrub brush helps too.
martinmarine	posted 06-22-2013 05:35 PM ET (US) We do not use COMET on the entire boat! Usually there is a small stubborn stain in the non-skid, that nothing else will touch. Comet does a great job removing these stains and won't destroy the non-skid.
Jefecinco	posted 06-22-2013 07:24 PM ET (US) There is a product called "Deck Cleaner" marketed by Starbrite?? It cleans decks fairly well. I sometimes augment the deck cleaner with a power washer. The combination is always successful. Butch
EaglesPDX	posted 06-22-2013 08:15 PM ET (US) quote: We do not use COMET on the entire boat! Usually there is a small stubborn stain in the non-skid, that nothing else will touch. Comet does a great job removing these stains and won't destroy the non-skid. Exactly what I want it for...thanks. Also like the idea of once I get it clean putting some sealant on without making the non-skid too slippery but preventing the dirt from getting in the deck.
jlh49	posted 06-23-2013 08:55 AM ET (US) From Wikipedia: "...Bon Ami, French for "Good Friend", is a brand of household cleaner products sold by the Faultless Starch/Bon Ami Company of Kansas City, Missouri, USA. The product's slogan is "Hasn't Scratched Yet!" referring to the fact that it does not scratch surfaces. The Bon Ami mascot, a chick emerging from an egg, is a play on the slogan (the newly-hatched chick hasn't scratched the ground for worms and insects)..." As indicated above, a deck is a non-skid surface, not a highly glossed finish, and is intended to be walked on. I have used it to remove very stubborn stains on smooth surfaces, but always have to re-wax and polish afterwards.
wannabe	posted 06-23-2013 09:08 AM ET (US) I use a deck cleaner with PTEK and it is quite effective for most dirt and stains. I have found that Simple Green has dirt raising abilities also. You can walk anywhere on my boat except on the wood as it might result in a quick loss of footing. Drew
andygere	posted 06-24-2013 01:31 AM ET (US) Simple Green is effective on the basic deck grime. Tough stains like dried fish blood or rust get scrubbed with a bit of Bar Keeper's Friend. My boat gets used, and the deck gets dirty. The liquids don't do a thing on these difficult stains. Perhaps they work well for museum boats that get a bit of dust on them over time...
Binkster	posted 06-24-2013 12:42 PM ET (US) COMET, that stuff will destroy anything. Back in the late '50's my buddy's dad had a 55 Ford convertible, it was aqua and cream, with matching vinyl seats that looked like leather. Well, the seats got a little dirty looking, so my buddy decided to clean them using COMET, a brush and water. Wow, the seats looked like new, his dad was real happy with his son. A month later, the bleach or whatever is in Comet rotted the stitching, it was rolled and pleated, and the seats literally fell apart. The car got traded in, and my buddy never drove the new one. I never used Comet since. rich
wldrns1	posted 06-25-2013 07:05 AM ET (US) Here's my nonskid story for those interested or with a similar problem. I have a 2008 150 Sport. Has a very aggressive nonskid pattern made up of very small diamonds, each of which are rough when viewed under magnification. No, I'm not crazy or [compulsive], but I've always hated this surface due to abrasive feel and major difficulty cleaning. I'd love to have the larger pattern my 1968 13' had. Decided best option was to finish-sand it some with my orbital. Carefully worked to go deep enough to eliminate the embedded dirt in the rough tops, making each top smooth. Ultimately ended up enlarging the tops of each diamond about x2. The sidewalls of each are still rough but I know of no relatively easy way to smooth them off. Started with 400 wet or dry. I went VERY slow and checked my work with magnification. Soon switched to 200 once I got the feel for the job. 200 wet or dry can be found at car parts stores. H Depot and Lowes don't carry it. I used 2 full sheet cut in 1/4's to fit sander. A new piece works well with no pressure but as the sheet surface breaks down, more pressure is needed. Depending on how fast one wants to go will determine how often to change to a new piece. The entire interior was done sanding in about 4-6 hrs, making all diamond tops smooth/enlarging each about 2x of the unsanded initial size. If I ever sand it again, it'll be with 400 as the 200 might be too fast. Better safe than sorry. Next was cleaning. I have tried every product on this board with the exception of Barkeepers Friend. Looking with the magnifier, I found a medium stiff bristle 'iron-shaped' brush whose bristles are small enough to get a few between the non skid pattern. (I wish I could find a stiff brush whose bristles each taper to a point) Oh well. I have not found a better, more effective and thorough cleaner than Collinite 920 & brush. There's that word again. Collinite. It was quick and very effective. Scrub in the direction of the lined up diamonds (both directions) to keep the bristles in contact with the tapered diamond sidewalls. Rinse. There was a HUGE improvement with ease-of-cleaning after sanding. Feels much better too but still a very effective nonskid surface. I used a 50/50 solution of 920 and water frequently shaken in another container. I'd put my thumb over the container opening and just let drops of the 50/50 solution get out. If you never tried 920, do it. Please post your opinion if your a Barkeepers Friend fan. Next I used Woody Wax (another frequent name) as directed on the container. READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR NO SKID SURFACES! Didn't spend much time buffing with a towel. The interior looks 'showroom'. It really does. After finishing the job, the boat was outside in the rain. My wife asked 'Aren't you going to pull it in the garage?' I replied 'It's a boat. It's supposed to get wet!' All I wanted was to make for easier cleaning and have a surface that wasn't so harsh. Mission accomplished!
weekendwarrior	posted 06-27-2013 08:33 PM ET (US) My non-skid sometimes gets mildew in it (in hot and humid Florida, boat lives under a cover). This looks like dirt, but is mildew. You're not supposed to use bleach, but I have yet to find anything more effective at cleaning dirty/mildew non-skid than bleach and a stiff brush. I don't use it very often for fear of what it does to the gelcoat, but it comes out really clean.