posted 08-12-2013 02:09 PM ET (US)        

Planning to install a single, Honda 250. This boat will be used exclusively on inland lakes in Wisconsin.

A few concerns:

1. There is a long, external bolt that extends from the transom through the center of the WD - presumably for support. I haven't seen many pics of WD's with this bolt. Will it get in the way of a single engine (especially if it tilts up)? Can the bolt be removed without sacrificing stability/security of the WD's mount to the hull (i.e. is it just an extra support mechanism installed when two engines were originally put on)?

2. If going with a single engine, I want a 25" shaft, but if twins, each should be 20" - is that correct?

3. How do I know/find out if I need to replace the fuel tank? Also - how difficult is it to go from one fuel line to two when converting from twin to single engines?

I'm open to any other suggestions or ideas in retrofitting this boat. She's a great hull and was inspected - solid and well maintained.

posted 08-12-2013 04:02 PM ET (US)            

As for whether nor not a single engine could be installed with the tube in place, I think it would depend on the engine used, the hydraulic steering components, and the range of tilt motion needed. The engine or the steering might hit the tube when tilting up. You will have to check on this carefully if you leave the tube in place.

To repair the holes in the transom of the Whaler Drive from the previous twin engines, you should use wooden plugs. It is recommended that you cut the plugs with a plug cutter from marine plywood so their grain and laminate structure are similar to the transom wood. Install the plugs with a good adhesive. Cut the plug length so you leave a depression at each end to fill with resin and gel coat. For advice on repair in general see

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/repairInstructions.html

I would probably use epoxy resin as the adhesive for the wooden plugs. I would probably use epoxy resin thickened with some filler and tinted with some white acryllic pigment to fill in the tops of the holes. Epoxy resin is easy to work with in small catsup-like foil packages, and it is an excellent sealer and adhesive. To get the best cosmetic finish you need to top coat with a color-matched gel coat resin. Some complain of poor results when top-coating epoxy and suggest using only polyester resins for repairs. If epoxy is fully cured and carefully washed, I have had good results in top-coating with gel coat color-matched resin. On that basis, I have no problem suggesting the method. If you don't properly prepare surfaces, you will always have problems, no matter what top coat medium you choose.

Even epoxy repairs left without a top coat can be tinted to look fairly close, but if you seek cosmetic perfection, use gel coat resin that is color-matched to finish the repair. Little jars of it cost quite a bit, and they dry up quickly, so if you order it, use it right away.

The shaft length for a Whaler Drive on a 22-foot hull will be 25-inch, for both single or twin engines. The Whaler Drive has a flat center pad to accommodate the 25-inch single engine. Shaft length is give in

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/specifications. html#hulls20-22

When you mount the single engine try mounting one-hole up. Even though this looks like a high mounting position, it has worked well for me, and some think that two-holes up might be better. Since you will be on an inland lake, you probably will not be in really big seas. If you want best top speed, try two-holes up. How it will work for your boat will depend on the characteristics of the gear case of the engine and the propeller you choose.

The fuel tank can be checked for integrity with a pressure test. Use only a very low pressure. I believe 2-PSI is about the limit. Call the fuel tank manufacturer, Florida Marine Tanks, for advice on testing with pressure and the limits. My feeling is that leaks in the tank might be likely to be located low in the tank, so the best test method is to have the tank completely empty of fuel. Of course, you have to close off all the tank vents and other outlets, too.

It is more likely that rubber hoses in the fuel system will need some attention. The large rubber filler hose running from the fuel filler cap to the tank is often found on these older boats to have become permeable, and if you fill the boat tank to the very brim, that is, right up the filler hose, it is often found that gasoline can leak from the filler hose. For that reason, I never fill the tank to the brim. And, after filling to near full, I always try to introduce a list to starboard in order to encourage any fuel left in the filler hose to drain into the tank.

If you have fuel leaking in the fuel tank area, you can usually smell gasoline vapor. Remove the circular deck access plate near the helm and place your nose into the tank cavity. If you smell gasoline vapor, it is a sign of a leak in the filler hose, or possibly a leak in the tank.

posted 08-12-2013 09:03 PM ET (US)            

The WD/transom does not have any hooks to tow skiers or kids in a tube. The outboard holes on either side I was thinking of putting in lifting eyes (like from Specialty Marine that are 316 stainless). They offer a 4" long, 1/2 inch bolt which is the same width I believe as the motor screws.

As for sealing the other holes, I like the idea you mentioned. One shop around here had mentioned simply putting the bolts back in with caulking or another sealant (epoxy?). Would that be a viable alternative to the wood plugs in the event that's too challenging?

Finally - what's the best place for a stern seat and other cushions (bow/front cooler)? Is Specialty Marine the best bet?

I'm aware of Sue at Twin Cities - but does she just order from Specialty Marine or does she source from different/better venders than does Specialty?

Thanks again for all of the great feedback. I promise to post good before/during/after pics.

I also have a fantastic T-Top that is affixed to the super console (w/ electronics box). I'm going to remove it as I need what sun I can get up here and the boat won't fit on my lift under my cover with it on. If anybody's interested, let me know.

posted 08-13-2013 07:38 AM ET (US)            

Check with Whaler on whether this is advisable. Seems to me that if Whaler thought it was a good idea, they would have put eyes on the Whaler Drive from the factory.

posted 08-13-2013 12:37 PM ET (US)            

He indicated it would be absolutely fine - for towing tubes or skiiers - but not for lifting the boat. Actually felt it would be a good way to seal those two holes and would have no issues with the stress/weight of that use.

Very much appreciate the information. Here is the gel coat info: