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Author Topic:   OUTRAGE 22: Replace Fuel Lines

lanlubber posted 09-09-2013 04:05 PM ET (US)
Just got a 1986 Outrage 22. I pulled the side access cover for the fuel fill hose and saw they are dated 1985. I'd like to replace them. I see there is an access cover under the console I can get to for where they attach to the tank. There is also a small square section of floor between the side of the boat and the console. It looks like just four screws and caulk involved. Would it be OK to remove this to help feed the new fuel lines?
flippa posted 09-10-2013 09:02 AM ET (US)
I replaced all of the original fuel and vent lines on my 1985 Revenge 22 W-T last year. I looked at trying to replace all the fuel lines with the deck in place. I didn't want to go through the hassle of pulling out the deck. I found it would be too difficult to properly do so with the deck in place, so I ended up pulling the deck. I was glad I did as I was able to inspect the top of the tank and clean the entire area of the 27-years of debris that accumulated over the tank and rigging tunnel.
It is obviously a lot more work to pull the deck out of an Outrage due the center console. It may be possible to be done in place by removing the side cover and working through the Beckson deck plates. That side cover will come right out after removing the screws and cutting the caulk with a razor knife.
lanlubber posted 09-10-2013 12:13 PM ET (US)
Thanks, I'm going to take a crack at it without lifting the console and deck. It looks possible, just a PITA due to the location under the console for the hose fittings. I'll need to cut or remove the floor board under the console to get to the access port.
Ron
Tom W Clark posted 09-10-2013 01:19 PM ET (US)
Ron -- Just unscrew the console from the floor and tip it forward onto a blanket or other form of padding.
You don't need to disconnect anything and it will give the access you need. This is how the dealers do it.
lanlubber posted 09-10-2013 02:16 PM ET (US)
Great tip! Thanks Tom that will make it much easier.
Ron
Russ 13 posted 09-10-2013 02:38 PM ET (US)
I replaced mine on a 1989 model. The fuel lines pass through the rigging tunnel with small rubber grommets.
This made it impossible to use the old fuel line as a pulling snake to drag the new lines through.
Along with the original fuel lines being stiff & inflexible.
I ended up removing the small section of deck, that covers
the center aft well.
TIP: When you replace the lines go back with heavy wall fuel line, made for inside the vessel. It has a thicker outer wall & is much more abrasion resistant than the fuel-line used on above deck fuel tanks.
The good stuff also is alcohol resistant.
Make sure to seal the screws that attach the decking & Beckson inspection plates with marine sealer, when you reassemble.
lanlubber posted 09-24-2013 03:25 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the additional information. I looked things over again. I'm not sure tilting the console forward will work out for me since it's a super console and I gave a little tug on the cables and there isn't much slack. My alternative is to tilt the console to starboard since that would keep the cables in the same spot. I'm hoping that gives me enough clearance to work. As for pulling the new hose through I thought about notching down the new and old hose and wire tie to a 1 1/4 barbed hose mender. do you think that would be small enough to get through the grommet?
andygere posted 09-28-2013 01:22 AM ET (US)
I was able to pull new fuel supply hoses on my 1989 Outrage 22 Cuddy using the old fuel hoses connected to the new with a double barb fitting. I soaped the hoses to make them slippery and easier to pull. As I recall, I had the aft fish well deck cover off to do the job. Also, I drilled out the rivets of the round Beckson plate ring where the hoses connected to the tank. This was necessary in order to have enough room too connect the new hoses to the tank fittings. I replaced the Beckson plate ring and cover with a new one.
My fill and vent hoses still need to be done, and that job is more complicated since my T-Top is also in the way.
lanlubber posted 09-28-2013 07:56 AM ET (US)
Thanks Andy I'll be attempting to do all the fuel lines. I'll probably get started within the next couple weeks. I'll try to snap some pics and post notes as I go.
lanlubber posted 10-06-2013 09:43 AM ET (US)
Started the [fuel line replacement] project yesterday. Ended up tilting the console to starboard so there was minimal stress on the cables and wires. Adjacent to the deck plate to access the fill and breather there is another hole cut into the floor that leads into a trough that ends up next to the hose trough on the port side of the boat. I'm not sure why they [i.e., Boston Whaler] would have left a raw open hole in the floor without any kind of sealant or other fixture on it. That trough and the fuel line trough were full of water.
(I have pictures but I don't see how or where to post them.)
andygere posted 10-07-2013 01:00 PM ET (US)
To post pictures, you need to upload them to a photosharing site such as Photobucket. Then you can link to the photos using UBB Code. The code is pretty simple, and it's explained here: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/ubbcode.html Follow the directions for URL hyperlinking, using the URL for each photo you want to link to.
jimh posted 10-07-2013 02:24 PM ET (US)
There are plenty of images of the 22-foot Boston Whaler hull center molded deck, the fuel tank cavity, and the various rigging troughs in the two-part article
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outrageRestore.html
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outrageRestore2.html
The rigging tunnel on the Port side of the hull does seem to lead to nowhere. On my 1990 Boston Whaler 22-foot hull, which was turned into a REVENGE W-T, there is drain installed in the Port tunnel at the aft end which drains that area into the Starboard tunnel. The two tunnels are connected by a small hose, only about 0.5-inch OD. The hose is higher on the Port side than on the Starboard, so it will drain the Port rigging tunnel if it gets full of water. I suspect that when the boat is running on plane with a planning angle of a few degrees, any water in teh Port rigging tunnel runs aft and is drained by the cross-connection hose. A bit of water will remain undrained. I suppose that ends up going away by evaporation or by getting into the central fuel tank cavity.
In theory, the central fuel tank cavity is sealed and water-tight, and water coming into it is supposed to drain away into the Starboard rigging tunnel. Any remaining water is supposed to evaporate away over time. However, it has been found that the water will get into the foam and remain in the central fuel tank cavity.
Also, on the REVENGE, there is a drain hole in the deck on the forward end of that tunnel that drains the deck into the Port tunnel. So the purpose of the port rigging tunnel is also to act as a drain.
lanlubber posted 10-08-2013 08:38 AM ET (US)
Here are the images. I think that 0.5-inch hose may be clogged since my boat is sitting at an incline yet water is still sitting in both channels on the port side. I'm guessing there is no way to clear it without pulling the deck. I'm still puzzled why Boston Whaler left that hole under the console unfinished. I'm thinking about finding a small deck plate to put in there and seal it off.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/rstoecker/Whaler/20131005_165757.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/rstoecker/Whaler/20131005_171102.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/rstoecker/Whaler/20131005_171055.jpg
At this stage I've removed both the fill and vent hoses--not too difficult. I've run the new fill hose to the tank and got it on about 1/2-inch and progress has stopped. I've been doing everything myself up to this point and I think I need another set of hands to help me get the hose on the rest of the way. I read that making the bend with the fill line from the channel up the sidewall puts a kink in the hose and a 90-degree fitting was added to make the transition. I did some looking and I can't find a brass or copper 90-degree fitting in 1-1/2-inch, but I found a nylon elbow that has an A or Excellent rating for gasoline and ethanol. On a side note I haven't had a single whiff of gasoline until I removed the hoses from the fuel tank. Hopefully a good sign the tank is still leak free.
jimh posted 10-08-2013 10:03 AM ET (US)
That circular opening to the Port rigging tunnel under the console is a bit of a mystery, but it could be used for rigging cables to the Port side of the boat, say an antenna transmission line or cables to electric down-riggers. Those are my best guesses.
A Beckson pry-out circular deck access plate would be a good way to cover the hole. It appears, as it is now configured, that any water on deck could easily enter the hole. On my Boston Whaler REVENGE model there is a molded plastic skirt around the opening to the rigging tunnel which creates a raised lip around the opening, and this prevents water of the deck from easily draining into the opening for the rigging.
You should be able to see the cross connecting hose between the rigging tunnels in the aft live well, assuming you have the 77-gallon fuel tank. The hose on my boat seems like it is made of PVC, not rubber, and it is cemented in place.
ASIDE: The [IMG] tag is not supported because the website does not allow in-line images. Use the [URL] tag. I fixed your article to make hyperlinks from the URLs.
jimh posted 10-08-2013 10:06 AM ET (US)
For information on Beckson circular pry-out deck access plates, see
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/019387.html
alfa posted 10-09-2013 05:45 AM ET (US)
In 2009, I changed myself the hoses on my 22' Outrage.
All new hoses were bought from Twin Cities Marine. Sue was always a great help.
Changing Vent and fuel Fill hoses was quite easy by removing only the square section near the console, and sealed it after.
Changing hoses from the tank was another deal...
I had to remove the aft fish well deck cover to do the job.
And the Beckson plate also.
See pics : http://s10.photobucket.com/user/alfajet/library/?sort=3&page=1#/user/ alfajet/library/?sort=3&page=1&_suid=138131148200008073933116776788
But task is not easy.
As Jimh said : "The rigging tunnel on the Port side of the hull does seem to lead to nowhere."
Yes, indeed.
So I drilled and installed a rigid hose between this tunnel (to drain it) and the fish well...
Alain
alfa posted 10-09-2013 05:48 AM ET (US)
PS : See the "tank" (sub) album.
jimh posted 10-09-2013 10:05 AM ET (US)
Great images of a great boat. Did you use copper fuel lines to the engine from that joint in the aft live well?
lanlubber posted 10-09-2013 11:03 AM ET (US)
What's the reason for some of the run using a hard line? I haven't pulled the fish box deck yet but I have hose coming off the fuel tank and I have hose coming up to my fuel filter. Why would there be a transition to metal in the middle?
alfa posted 10-10-2013 01:29 AM ET (US)
Jim, the copper lines were genuine, factory installed.
I believe BW installed them to be more abrasion resistant and secure than hoses in the fish well.
I just reused them.
Tight lines, Alain
lanlubber posted 10-10-2013 08:47 AM ET (US)
I think I'd rather run a single line with less connections that have the potential to leak. Maybe I'll run a PVC tube for the line to run through.
andygere posted 10-11-2013 01:23 AM ET (US)
My 1989 was solid hose from the tank fittings to the wood sump cover, where it became hoses tied into brass fittings. I ran two hoses, with one active and the other as an installed spare. It's been 6 or 7 years, no problems.
jimh posted 10-12-2013 10:04 AM ET (US)
In my 1990 REVENGE 22 W-T Whaler Drive the dual fuel hoses are rubber, from the fuel tank pick-up fittings to a standoff bracket on the transom, where Boston Whaler's installation ended and the engine installer's installation would begin. They are routed through the aft live well. It would be impossible to replace those lines without removing the deck cover section that covers the aft live well. Well, at least darn near impossible.
lanlubber posted 10-13-2013 05:16 PM ET (US)
Well I managed to get the fill and vent lines done by using a little heat from a hair dryer. I covered her up for the winter since the leaves are really starting to come down. I'll probably pull the cover early next year to finish the other fuel lines and move on to the next project, wiring. I removed all the teak so I can work on that over the winter. Thanks for all the tips, I couldn't have gotten this far without the information I received here.
andygere posted 10-14-2013 11:44 AM ET (US)
The use of heat is a good idea. I recall using a bucket of really hot water to help get the hose ends onto the barbs. I cut the hoses long so I could pull some extra length through to get them in the bucket, then quickly yank the sump end and get it on the fitting.

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Author	Topic: OUTRAGE 22: Replace Fuel Lines
lanlubber	posted 09-09-2013 04:05 PM ET (US) Just got a 1986 Outrage 22. I pulled the side access cover for the fuel fill hose and saw they are dated 1985. I'd like to replace them. I see there is an access cover under the console I can get to for where they attach to the tank. There is also a small square section of floor between the side of the boat and the console. It looks like just four screws and caulk involved. Would it be OK to remove this to help feed the new fuel lines?
flippa	posted 09-10-2013 09:02 AM ET (US) I replaced all of the original fuel and vent lines on my 1985 Revenge 22 W-T last year. I looked at trying to replace all the fuel lines with the deck in place. I didn't want to go through the hassle of pulling out the deck. I found it would be too difficult to properly do so with the deck in place, so I ended up pulling the deck. I was glad I did as I was able to inspect the top of the tank and clean the entire area of the 27-years of debris that accumulated over the tank and rigging tunnel. It is obviously a lot more work to pull the deck out of an Outrage due the center console. It may be possible to be done in place by removing the side cover and working through the Beckson deck plates. That side cover will come right out after removing the screws and cutting the caulk with a razor knife.
lanlubber	posted 09-10-2013 12:13 PM ET (US) Thanks, I'm going to take a crack at it without lifting the console and deck. It looks possible, just a PITA due to the location under the console for the hose fittings. I'll need to cut or remove the floor board under the console to get to the access port. Ron
Tom W Clark	posted 09-10-2013 01:19 PM ET (US) Ron -- Just unscrew the console from the floor and tip it forward onto a blanket or other form of padding. You don't need to disconnect anything and it will give the access you need. This is how the dealers do it.
lanlubber	posted 09-10-2013 02:16 PM ET (US) Great tip! Thanks Tom that will make it much easier. Ron
Russ 13	posted 09-10-2013 02:38 PM ET (US) I replaced mine on a 1989 model. The fuel lines pass through the rigging tunnel with small rubber grommets. This made it impossible to use the old fuel line as a pulling snake to drag the new lines through. Along with the original fuel lines being stiff & inflexible. I ended up removing the small section of deck, that covers the center aft well. TIP: When you replace the lines go back with heavy wall fuel line, made for inside the vessel. It has a thicker outer wall & is much more abrasion resistant than the fuel-line used on above deck fuel tanks. The good stuff also is alcohol resistant. Make sure to seal the screws that attach the decking & Beckson inspection plates with marine sealer, when you reassemble.
lanlubber	posted 09-24-2013 03:25 PM ET (US) Thanks for the additional information. I looked things over again. I'm not sure tilting the console forward will work out for me since it's a super console and I gave a little tug on the cables and there isn't much slack. My alternative is to tilt the console to starboard since that would keep the cables in the same spot. I'm hoping that gives me enough clearance to work. As for pulling the new hose through I thought about notching down the new and old hose and wire tie to a 1 1/4 barbed hose mender. do you think that would be small enough to get through the grommet?
andygere	posted 09-28-2013 01:22 AM ET (US) I was able to pull new fuel supply hoses on my 1989 Outrage 22 Cuddy using the old fuel hoses connected to the new with a double barb fitting. I soaped the hoses to make them slippery and easier to pull. As I recall, I had the aft fish well deck cover off to do the job. Also, I drilled out the rivets of the round Beckson plate ring where the hoses connected to the tank. This was necessary in order to have enough room too connect the new hoses to the tank fittings. I replaced the Beckson plate ring and cover with a new one. My fill and vent hoses still need to be done, and that job is more complicated since my T-Top is also in the way.
lanlubber	posted 09-28-2013 07:56 AM ET (US) Thanks Andy I'll be attempting to do all the fuel lines. I'll probably get started within the next couple weeks. I'll try to snap some pics and post notes as I go.
lanlubber	posted 10-06-2013 09:43 AM ET (US) Started the [fuel line replacement] project yesterday. Ended up tilting the console to starboard so there was minimal stress on the cables and wires. Adjacent to the deck plate to access the fill and breather there is another hole cut into the floor that leads into a trough that ends up next to the hose trough on the port side of the boat. I'm not sure why they [i.e., Boston Whaler] would have left a raw open hole in the floor without any kind of sealant or other fixture on it. That trough and the fuel line trough were full of water. (I have pictures but I don't see how or where to post them.)
andygere	posted 10-07-2013 01:00 PM ET (US) To post pictures, you need to upload them to a photosharing site such as Photobucket. Then you can link to the photos using UBB Code. The code is pretty simple, and it's explained here: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/ubbcode.html Follow the directions for URL hyperlinking, using the URL for each photo you want to link to.
jimh	posted 10-07-2013 02:24 PM ET (US) There are plenty of images of the 22-foot Boston Whaler hull center molded deck, the fuel tank cavity, and the various rigging troughs in the two-part article http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outrageRestore.html http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outrageRestore2.html The rigging tunnel on the Port side of the hull does seem to lead to nowhere. On my 1990 Boston Whaler 22-foot hull, which was turned into a REVENGE W-T, there is drain installed in the Port tunnel at the aft end which drains that area into the Starboard tunnel. The two tunnels are connected by a small hose, only about 0.5-inch OD. The hose is higher on the Port side than on the Starboard, so it will drain the Port rigging tunnel if it gets full of water. I suspect that when the boat is running on plane with a planning angle of a few degrees, any water in teh Port rigging tunnel runs aft and is drained by the cross-connection hose. A bit of water will remain undrained. I suppose that ends up going away by evaporation or by getting into the central fuel tank cavity. In theory, the central fuel tank cavity is sealed and water-tight, and water coming into it is supposed to drain away into the Starboard rigging tunnel. Any remaining water is supposed to evaporate away over time. However, it has been found that the water will get into the foam and remain in the central fuel tank cavity. Also, on the REVENGE, there is a drain hole in the deck on the forward end of that tunnel that drains the deck into the Port tunnel. So the purpose of the port rigging tunnel is also to act as a drain.
lanlubber	posted 10-08-2013 08:38 AM ET (US) Here are the images. I think that 0.5-inch hose may be clogged since my boat is sitting at an incline yet water is still sitting in both channels on the port side. I'm guessing there is no way to clear it without pulling the deck. I'm still puzzled why Boston Whaler left that hole under the console unfinished. I'm thinking about finding a small deck plate to put in there and seal it off. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/rstoecker/Whaler/20131005_165757.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/rstoecker/Whaler/20131005_171102.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/rstoecker/Whaler/20131005_171055.jpg At this stage I've removed both the fill and vent hoses--not too difficult. I've run the new fill hose to the tank and got it on about 1/2-inch and progress has stopped. I've been doing everything myself up to this point and I think I need another set of hands to help me get the hose on the rest of the way. I read that making the bend with the fill line from the channel up the sidewall puts a kink in the hose and a 90-degree fitting was added to make the transition. I did some looking and I can't find a brass or copper 90-degree fitting in 1-1/2-inch, but I found a nylon elbow that has an A or Excellent rating for gasoline and ethanol. On a side note I haven't had a single whiff of gasoline until I removed the hoses from the fuel tank. Hopefully a good sign the tank is still leak free.
jimh	posted 10-08-2013 10:03 AM ET (US) That circular opening to the Port rigging tunnel under the console is a bit of a mystery, but it could be used for rigging cables to the Port side of the boat, say an antenna transmission line or cables to electric down-riggers. Those are my best guesses. A Beckson pry-out circular deck access plate would be a good way to cover the hole. It appears, as it is now configured, that any water on deck could easily enter the hole. On my Boston Whaler REVENGE model there is a molded plastic skirt around the opening to the rigging tunnel which creates a raised lip around the opening, and this prevents water of the deck from easily draining into the opening for the rigging. You should be able to see the cross connecting hose between the rigging tunnels in the aft live well, assuming you have the 77-gallon fuel tank. The hose on my boat seems like it is made of PVC, not rubber, and it is cemented in place. ASIDE: The [IMG] tag is not supported because the website does not allow in-line images. Use the [URL] tag. I fixed your article to make hyperlinks from the URLs.
jimh	posted 10-08-2013 10:06 AM ET (US) For information on Beckson circular pry-out deck access plates, see http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/019387.html
alfa	posted 10-09-2013 05:45 AM ET (US) In 2009, I changed myself the hoses on my 22' Outrage. All new hoses were bought from Twin Cities Marine. Sue was always a great help. Changing Vent and fuel Fill hoses was quite easy by removing only the square section near the console, and sealed it after. Changing hoses from the tank was another deal... I had to remove the aft fish well deck cover to do the job. And the Beckson plate also. See pics : http://s10.photobucket.com/user/alfajet/library/?sort=3&page=1#/user/ alfajet/library/?sort=3&page=1&_suid=138131148200008073933116776788 But task is not easy. As Jimh said : "The rigging tunnel on the Port side of the hull does seem to lead to nowhere." Yes, indeed. So I drilled and installed a rigid hose between this tunnel (to drain it) and the fish well... Alain
alfa	posted 10-09-2013 05:48 AM ET (US) PS : See the "tank" (sub) album.
jimh	posted 10-09-2013 10:05 AM ET (US) Great images of a great boat. Did you use copper fuel lines to the engine from that joint in the aft live well?
lanlubber	posted 10-09-2013 11:03 AM ET (US) What's the reason for some of the run using a hard line? I haven't pulled the fish box deck yet but I have hose coming off the fuel tank and I have hose coming up to my fuel filter. Why would there be a transition to metal in the middle?
alfa	posted 10-10-2013 01:29 AM ET (US) Jim, the copper lines were genuine, factory installed. I believe BW installed them to be more abrasion resistant and secure than hoses in the fish well. I just reused them. Tight lines, Alain
lanlubber	posted 10-10-2013 08:47 AM ET (US) I think I'd rather run a single line with less connections that have the potential to leak. Maybe I'll run a PVC tube for the line to run through.
andygere	posted 10-11-2013 01:23 AM ET (US) My 1989 was solid hose from the tank fittings to the wood sump cover, where it became hoses tied into brass fittings. I ran two hoses, with one active and the other as an installed spare. It's been 6 or 7 years, no problems.
jimh	posted 10-12-2013 10:04 AM ET (US) In my 1990 REVENGE 22 W-T Whaler Drive the dual fuel hoses are rubber, from the fuel tank pick-up fittings to a standoff bracket on the transom, where Boston Whaler's installation ended and the engine installer's installation would begin. They are routed through the aft live well. It would be impossible to replace those lines without removing the deck cover section that covers the aft live well. Well, at least darn near impossible.
lanlubber	posted 10-13-2013 05:16 PM ET (US) Well I managed to get the fill and vent lines done by using a little heat from a hair dryer. I covered her up for the winter since the leaves are really starting to come down. I'll probably pull the cover early next year to finish the other fuel lines and move on to the next project, wiring. I removed all the teak so I can work on that over the winter. Thanks for all the tips, I couldn't have gotten this far without the information I received here.
andygere	posted 10-14-2013 11:44 AM ET (US) The use of heat is a good idea. I recall using a bucket of really hot water to help get the hose ends onto the barbs. I cut the hoses long so I could pull some extra length through to get them in the bucket, then quickly yank the sump end and get it on the fitting.