1966 Evinrude Big Twin: Ignition Re-assembly: Running Problems

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Author Topic:   1966 Evinrude Big Twin: Ignition Re-assembly: Running Problems

Sojo81007 posted 10-10-2013 06:16 PM ET (US)
On a recent trip to the lake my Big Twin started running on one cylinder. The top cylinder had no spark. I decided to replace all of the ignition components while I was at it. So I ordered the parts, took the flywheel off, and removed the ignition components, including the armature plate. Bad idea as I got delayed and am now trying to reassemble this thing.
I have everything together except for two wires which come up from what I believe is the safety and shut off switch. Does anyone have ANY idea where these wires go? And, how in the world they are attached to the bottom of the armature plate? I'm lost! I have a factory service manual, but I simply can't find these wires on any of the diagrams. It doesn't give detail instructions about removing the ignition components.
Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on the subject.

Sojo81007 posted 10-10-2013 08:22 PM ET (US)
I think they are the kill wires. They go to each point and ground each other out when connected. [I need a] picture of the underside of the armature. I can't figure how the wires are routed underneath. THANKS!
Sojo81007 posted 10-12-2013 09:58 PM ET (US)
As I posted previously, my 1966 Big Twin started running on one cylinder. It had run fine the last trip to the lake, but when I went to put it in it simply was running on one cylinder.
There was no spark on the top cylinder, so I pulled the fly wheel and saw that a coil had broken in pieces. I decided to so the old motor some TLC and replaced the entire ignition system - plugs, wires, coils, points, condensors. I gapped the points at .020, put it all back together (after much effort, I've never done this) and took it to the lake. ,
It's still running on one cylinder! Both cylinders have strong spark, and the machine will run with the bottom cylinder unplugged, but if you unplug the top it will not run. When I removed the bottom plug it looked dry - was not fouled and had no signs of use at all.
Could this be a reed valve? Could I have the timing so messed up that it's acting like it's running on one cylinder? When I gapped the points I turned the driveshaft so that the keyway was perfectly in line with the riser (whatever it's called...the part of the point that rides on the cam). Was that my mistake? ON some outboards I know it will have a "set" marker on the cam...I could find none so I used the keyway as it seemed about the middle of the "open" position for the points.
I know there are two timing marks on the armature, but I have no way of checking the timing because I don't have some tool that the manual calls for.
Any ideas/help?
jimh posted 10-13-2013 11:39 AM ET (US)
[I have combined two threads on this outboard engine repair into one thread.]
Sojo81007 posted 10-14-2013 09:41 AM ET (US)
UPDATE: Bought a compression tester this morning and both cylinders are cranking out 118 (top) 119 (bottom) psi. I'm pretty sure that's good. :)
Now that we know the engine hasn't been seriously damaged, what other possibilities can I explore? The top spark plug was wet with oil, the bottom plug had none...was dry, with no signs of use at all. When I do a spark test both plugs are firing.
Fuel is not getting to that bottom cylinder...why? Suspects:
1. Fuel pump (is it possible that only the top would get fuel?)
2. Reed valve(s)
3. Vacuum switch which cuts off the lower cylinder in certain situations (I don't see how that would stop fuel from getting in there so not very likely in my opinion.)
Any ideas?
pcrussell50 posted 10-18-2013 01:44 AM ET (US)
Ideas: Clogged main jet, fuel soaked float. Make sure the fuel line feediing the float bowl is supple and secure and not old or cracked. And make sure it's ethanol safe. If not, it could be rotting out from the inside. I'd clean and rebuild the carb. Make sure the spark is crackling strong and blue. Get a cheap spark tester and make sure it jumps at least a 0.050" gap, or whatever the shop manual says for testing. Are you absolutely sure you gapped the points right? Are the condensers fresh and new?
Did you ever figure out your "orphaned" wires? Those motors are super durable and might last forever if you don't mind the fuel economy. They are also super reliable if you keep up with the basic maintenance.
Your compression numbers are good for that motor.
-Peter
kglinz posted 10-18-2013 07:37 AM ET (US)
You might keep in mind that if you have no fuel to the cylinder, you have no lubrication. Don't run it long on one cylinder

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Author	Topic: 1966 Evinrude Big Twin: Ignition Re-assembly: Running Problems
Sojo81007	posted 10-10-2013 06:16 PM ET (US) On a recent trip to the lake my Big Twin started running on one cylinder. The top cylinder had no spark. I decided to replace all of the ignition components while I was at it. So I ordered the parts, took the flywheel off, and removed the ignition components, including the armature plate. Bad idea as I got delayed and am now trying to reassemble this thing. I have everything together except for two wires which come up from what I believe is the safety and shut off switch. Does anyone have ANY idea where these wires go? And, how in the world they are attached to the bottom of the armature plate? I'm lost! I have a factory service manual, but I simply can't find these wires on any of the diagrams. It doesn't give detail instructions about removing the ignition components. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on the subject.
Sojo81007	posted 10-10-2013 08:22 PM ET (US) I think they are the kill wires. They go to each point and ground each other out when connected. [I need a] picture of the underside of the armature. I can't figure how the wires are routed underneath. THANKS!
Sojo81007	posted 10-12-2013 09:58 PM ET (US) As I posted previously, my 1966 Big Twin started running on one cylinder. It had run fine the last trip to the lake, but when I went to put it in it simply was running on one cylinder. There was no spark on the top cylinder, so I pulled the fly wheel and saw that a coil had broken in pieces. I decided to so the old motor some TLC and replaced the entire ignition system - plugs, wires, coils, points, condensors. I gapped the points at .020, put it all back together (after much effort, I've never done this) and took it to the lake. , It's still running on one cylinder! Both cylinders have strong spark, and the machine will run with the bottom cylinder unplugged, but if you unplug the top it will not run. When I removed the bottom plug it looked dry - was not fouled and had no signs of use at all. Could this be a reed valve? Could I have the timing so messed up that it's acting like it's running on one cylinder? When I gapped the points I turned the driveshaft so that the keyway was perfectly in line with the riser (whatever it's called...the part of the point that rides on the cam). Was that my mistake? ON some outboards I know it will have a "set" marker on the cam...I could find none so I used the keyway as it seemed about the middle of the "open" position for the points. I know there are two timing marks on the armature, but I have no way of checking the timing because I don't have some tool that the manual calls for. Any ideas/help?
jimh	posted 10-13-2013 11:39 AM ET (US) [I have combined two threads on this outboard engine repair into one thread.]
Sojo81007	posted 10-14-2013 09:41 AM ET (US) UPDATE: Bought a compression tester this morning and both cylinders are cranking out 118 (top) 119 (bottom) psi. I'm pretty sure that's good. :) Now that we know the engine hasn't been seriously damaged, what other possibilities can I explore? The top spark plug was wet with oil, the bottom plug had none...was dry, with no signs of use at all. When I do a spark test both plugs are firing. Fuel is not getting to that bottom cylinder...why? Suspects: 1. Fuel pump (is it possible that only the top would get fuel?) 2. Reed valve(s) 3. Vacuum switch which cuts off the lower cylinder in certain situations (I don't see how that would stop fuel from getting in there so not very likely in my opinion.) Any ideas?
pcrussell50	posted 10-18-2013 01:44 AM ET (US) Ideas: Clogged main jet, fuel soaked float. Make sure the fuel line feediing the float bowl is supple and secure and not old or cracked. And make sure it's ethanol safe. If not, it could be rotting out from the inside. I'd clean and rebuild the carb. Make sure the spark is crackling strong and blue. Get a cheap spark tester and make sure it jumps at least a 0.050" gap, or whatever the shop manual says for testing. Are you absolutely sure you gapped the points right? Are the condensers fresh and new? Did you ever figure out your "orphaned" wires? Those motors are super durable and might last forever if you don't mind the fuel economy. They are also super reliable if you keep up with the basic maintenance. Your compression numbers are good for that motor. -Peter
kglinz	posted 10-18-2013 07:37 AM ET (US) You might keep in mind that if you have no fuel to the cylinder, you have no lubrication. Don't run it long on one cylinder