Repair of Salt Shaker Marine WhalerDrive Bracket

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Author Topic:   Repair of Salt Shaker Marine WhalerDrive Bracket

Jeff posted 10-20-2013 08:22 PM ET (US)
With my Father completely retired these days, he has taken upon himself to start doing some major restoration projects to our 1993 Boston Whaler 23 Walkaround Whaler Drive (seen below) He is redoing some of the interior pieces and an all new headliner, updating the electrical and installing all new stainless thru-hulls.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 1993%2023%20Boston%20Whaler%20Walkaround%20Whalerdrive?sort=2&page=1
One of the major projects is to completely remove the Whaler Drive bracket from the hull. This post classic Whaler Drive unit is manufactured by Salt Shaker Marine and was installed by Whaler at the factory. It differs greatly from the Dougherty designed foam filled Whaler Drives. This Salt Shaker Marine unit is made up of two main parts; the swim platform and the bracket box. The bracket box is designed to allow for all of the engine rigging to pass through the transom, into the bracket box and then exit to the motors through external rigging tubes. This allows for an open swim platform free of rigging tubes but, it also can allow water to get into the bracket box and sit in the rigging channels. We hope to fix this problem with some design changes. Here are some photos of the first part of disassembly, removal of the swim platform and other pieces:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive?sort=2&page=1
This weekend both motors where derigged and the bracket box was removed....after a tremendous amount of work, hammering, chiseling, sawing and assistance of a fork lift. Those photos will follow.
Now that is all off the hull, the plan is to fix any areas of fiberglass that are cracked or need repair and then regelcoat, re-engineer the mounting brackets and backing plates and manufacture new ones, make extensions to the external rigging tubes. Once that is done reinstall the bracket and completely reseal the entire unit and install new flexible rigging hoses.
Because there is VERY little known about these Salt Shaker brackets, I wanted to share as I could.

[extra search tags: Walk Around, WalkAround, Whalerdrive, WhalerDrive, Saltshaker Marine]
jimh posted 10-21-2013 11:28 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the very interesting views inside the Saltshaker Whaler Drive. The details of the construction have never been seen before.
It looks like the hull mold for the 23 Walkaround with the added Whaler Drive bracket is the same as for the standard notched transom. The bolts that attach the Saltshaker bracket are placed at the same level on the transom as the engine bolts would go on a notched transom. As you know, the foam-filled Whaler Drive (or perhaps we might call it the Dougherty Drive after its designer, Bob Dougherty) attaches to the transom using bolts--actually long rods--that are located above the line of the normal engine mounting bolts, and a new section of transom is fabricated to received those bolts. I have always thought that the Saltshaker bracket on the 23 Walkaround was quite long and the way it was fastened to the transom put a lot of loading on the transom when the boat was out of the water. The hull of the 23 Walkaround must have been designed to carry that extra load at the transom. Is there any sign of some transom knees n the hull to add support to the transom?
L H G posted 10-21-2013 08:16 PM ET (US)
Jeff - thanks for the photo sequence. Scary, and it's really unfortunate that this kind of major boat restoration is needed on a 20 year old Post Classic! I am really surprised to actually see how the Saltshaker transom bracket/Whaler Drive unit was designed and assembled.
Looking at the terrible, corroded condition of the non-accessible interior surfaces and fittings, I think we can say Van Lancker/Reebock-Whaler did a lousy job on the design, completely forgetting about future maintenance. Now we know why Whaler only used this device for 3 years, and never used it on the successor Outrage 24's or any other later designs.
As an owner of an aluminum Armstrong bracketed full transom Whaler, when it was intnroduced I was intrigued with the concept of a fiberglass transom bracket. It seemed like an interesting anti-corrosion alternative. Now we know why Saltshaker is gone, but Armstrong is still doing fine, and even being used today by Whaler Commercial Products, Regulator, etc. Looking at your Dad's situation, I now know the lightweight aluminum bracket holds up much better. My 1989 installation is as shiny on the outside, and as clean and non-corroded on the totally accessible inside as the day it was new. Even the engine bolting is totally concealed.
I had always thought the Saltshaker fiberglass design was competely open inside, as my Armstong is. I never guessed it would have all those interior gussetts cluttering up the inside. I guess it was necessary for the structural strength. And rigging coming through the bracket interior seemed like a good idea, an improvement on the way mine is rigged, but I guess not.
If this 23 was my boat, I know what I would do to clean up the design clutter. A new Armstong, with integral side platforms the width of choice, could be installed as a clean one-piece unit at the same height. Rigging tubes across the top of the platform would exist, but that eliinates any risk of corrosion and water infiltration. Epoxy coated in hull color, it would be a beautiful installation, lighter in weight, on the clean re-gelcoated transom. I would use 26" setback, decreasing setback stern weight considerably and improving overall boat appearance, and you could still walk out on it as necessary using the access door.
To me the cost of the Armstrong installation, about $4000 max, would be worth the large amount of work needed to restore, re-configure and re-assemble, the old improperly designed original configuration and awkward fiberglass covering platform.
This may seem like a radical idea, but really is an idea that can grow on you, and I only offer it as a suggestion for the rebuild. I love my Armstrong bracket installation. The boat is fast and quite fuel efficient, the Armstrong has excellent durabity and serviceablity, and good looks in my opinion, even after 24 years. I just saw a brand new Whaler 27 Guardian, factory rigged with an Armstong bracket and a pair of 200 L-4 Verados.
Good luck with the restoration on whatever your Dad decides. It will be interesting to follow progress, and we all know you guys will do a beautiful job with whatever you do.
Jeff posted 10-22-2013 09:47 PM ET (US)
Larry,
I know you really do not care much for anything post classic or VanLanker related. Honestly though, the boat / hull was well designed, thought out and has a high quality of craftsmanship. The bracket though was not designed or engineered by Whaler or VanLanker so you cant point fingers there. It was just integrated and installed by Whaler. Yes, there are some things that were good ideas but could have been executed better on the bracket design. We will change that on the rework.
Putting an Armstrong Bracket on could be a route to go, but that is an investment beyond just the cost to buy it. And even Armstrong Brackets are not free of problems...mostly corrosion related.
As with the other boats we have done...nothing EVER gets done 1/2 way. With some sweat equity, quality engineering and access to quality fabricators, the boat and bracket will be better than new once it's done.
jimh posted 10-23-2013 12:51 AM ET (US)
Jeff--I am certain that when your father and you complete the refurbishment there will be nothing left undone, and I look forward to seeing pictures of the work in progress.
It looks to me that ingress of water into the interior of this craftily made engine set back bracket is likely to occur because of the unusual route of the rigging. It is really a beautiful concept that all of the engine wiring, hydraulic lines, battery cables, fuel hoses, oil hoses, and other things could be routed though that gorgous swim platform and out to the engines. That really makes the back of the boat clear of cables and rigging. The result is a wonderful stern platform, unlike any other I have ever seen on an outboard boat.
This approach to hiding the rigging is particularly useful on a twin engine boat with a set back bracket. With the typical twin engines installation on a long set back bracket there is much rigging running across the set back bracket, making that area a trip hazard for anyone moving around on the stern platform. The 23 WALKAROUND design gets rid of all that mess on deck.
I have to think that in the original form, with all the flexible tubes in good condition, that water would not be able to get into the interior of the set back bracket via the rigging openings. Perhaps if those tubes and flexible coverings were allowed to decay some water could get into the interior. It looks like there is some mildew on the fiberglass. I wonder if that came from freshwater use? I have heard that saltwater prevents mildew. Maybe it came from use in a tropical climate.
6992WHALER posted 10-23-2013 11:46 AM ET (US)
I think Jim is spot on on the major water intrusion rout.
The rigging hose on my boat was rotten when I purchased her.
I assumed the hose was primarily for looks. So it was low on my do do list. It took a while using the boat to realize that the hose was an integral part of the water integrity of the bracket.
On Jeff's boat the previous owner had replaced the water tight rigging hoses with new split hoses. These hoses allowed water to enter the bracket.
The other weakness is the need to maintain a caulk line between the bracket and the transom.
I think the two main water entrance points are not design faults but maintenance issues. If the hoses and the caulk line are maintained the bracket should be water tight.

contender posted 10-27-2013 06:44 PM ET (US)
Jeff: I have a bracket as well on my larger boat, I did not like the design of the rigging going through the box and getting wet. 1st, my box is design to hold air its a solid cube with a drain in the bottom and an inspection plate on the top. Once you box fills with water you are not only carring extra weight but it pulls the back down. Next all of my rigging runs through a plastic black hose that has screwable connections for each end. This tubing is water tight and my cables and controls do not get wet. When I rigged the boat I sealed it with black 3m 5200 as well. I think this is something you should look at, with a couple of connections you could run a water tight tube through your box into the transom to other connections. I would look to moving the tube connection in front of the engines and seal/close the current ones. I would also look into sealing your box so it stays dry, or at least can drain easily.
mopee3 posted 04-03-2014 02:32 PM ET (US)
I just purchased a used 1992 23' walkaround and am wondering what kind or model of Whalerdrive Bracket I have. Can someone tell me what to look for to identify the bracket?
Thanks
Monty
mopee3 posted 04-03-2014 04:23 PM ET (US)
Found my answer.
Thanks
EJO posted 04-04-2014 12:28 PM ET (US)
mopee3 But I haven't
Enlighten us and Jeff I assume yours is redesigned and done please post pics.
Robert V posted 04-04-2014 03:44 PM ET (US)
That looks like a nice "little" project you have there! I am anxious to see the process and progress, please keep updating with pictures. Thanks for taking the time to share it on the forum.
Jeff posted 04-06-2014 03:06 PM ET (US)
EJO,
The bracket is a Salt Shaker Marine produced bracket that Whaler installed at the factory. Though not the same as the early WhalerDrive brackets, Whaler still labeled it as and sold it under the moniker "WhalerDrive". These floatation box with swim platform style WhalerDrive Brackets were only installed on the 23' and 27' hulls in the early 1990's.
Progress Update:
It's has been a brutal winter up here in Michigan and the 23 Walkaround is still sitting in the storage warehouse with the head of production (my father) still in Florida. So, everything is still in pieces but all ready to get reinstalled.
During the winter months the boat spent time over at Mike Stennett's Nautical Lumber / Neptune Yacht Refinishing's shop having a lot of fiberglass work done.
The transom was repaired, resurfaced and regelcoated. The rigging tubes and thru-bolt mounting holes were cleaned out repaired, glassed over and gelcoated. Also, the transom bulkhead top cap was glassed to the transom creating one unified piece. I have no idea why Whaler did not do that on these models at the factory.
The flotation box's transom mounting face was repaired, resurfaced and regelcoated. Also, all the rigging tubes and thru-bolt mounting holes (both transom and motor) were cleaned out, repaired , glassed over and gel coated.
Finally the swim platform has some repairs and rebuilding of the stingers where the boarding ladders are mounted.
All in all there has been a lot that has gone into the this so far and a lot more to reinstall everything. But once it is done, it should be better than new and last for decades to come.
Here are updated pics.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive/Fiberglass%20rerpairs?sort=2&page=1
dfmcintyre posted 04-06-2014 07:39 PM ET (US)
Jeff -
So no more high speed runs into Lexington!
welldan18650 posted 04-07-2014 07:07 PM ET (US)
What a job, have you any hour total? I owned an exact sister ship that persistently leaked. I only went as far as removing the entire top (for which I found no degradation to your scale) resealed everything and upsized the fasteners and guess what, IT STILL LEAKED. The leak must have been between the bracket and hull. Thought I had it calked but who knows. Anyone buying one of these boats should count on hitting the repeat button on your project. Thanks for the chronicle, great work.
mopee3 posted 04-13-2014 10:57 PM ET (US)
EJO,
I realized that I have the Saltshaker platform like Jeff's that is all I was saying. I will put caulk around the platform/drive before we put in the water. I need to replace the plastic tubes because we have split tubing right now. Work to be done.
Monty
mopee3 posted 04-17-2014 01:18 PM ET (US)
Jeff,
The jump seats behind the main seats, did they come with your Whaler or did you add them. West Marine lists a seat like them for $215, which seems steep but we really need seats in the deck area.
Monty
Jeff posted 01-24-2015 10:23 PM ET (US)
Mopee, those seat where installed by Whaler. They used this boat as their floor display boat for the 1993 Miami Boatshow. They are the same as the seats they used for the stern jump seats on the Classic Whalers with I/O's.

UPDATE
I was finally able to get all of the photos from the competition of this project. These photos show the full re-installation of the bracket, hanging of and rerigging of the motors, installation of the swim platform and recalking of it all. You can see, my father made new heavy duty aluminum backing plates for all of the thru-bolts through the transom and for the motors.
Here are the Photos
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive/Installation%20of%20the%20Bracket?sort=2& page=1
The boat performed awesome all summer and I never once saw evidence of water in the platform.

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Author	Topic: Repair of Salt Shaker Marine WhalerDrive Bracket
Jeff	posted 10-20-2013 08:22 PM ET (US) With my Father completely retired these days, he has taken upon himself to start doing some major restoration projects to our 1993 Boston Whaler 23 Walkaround Whaler Drive (seen below) He is redoing some of the interior pieces and an all new headliner, updating the electrical and installing all new stainless thru-hulls. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 1993%2023%20Boston%20Whaler%20Walkaround%20Whalerdrive?sort=2&page=1 One of the major projects is to completely remove the Whaler Drive bracket from the hull. This post classic Whaler Drive unit is manufactured by Salt Shaker Marine and was installed by Whaler at the factory. It differs greatly from the Dougherty designed foam filled Whaler Drives. This Salt Shaker Marine unit is made up of two main parts; the swim platform and the bracket box. The bracket box is designed to allow for all of the engine rigging to pass through the transom, into the bracket box and then exit to the motors through external rigging tubes. This allows for an open swim platform free of rigging tubes but, it also can allow water to get into the bracket box and sit in the rigging channels. We hope to fix this problem with some design changes. Here are some photos of the first part of disassembly, removal of the swim platform and other pieces: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive?sort=2&page=1 This weekend both motors where derigged and the bracket box was removed....after a tremendous amount of work, hammering, chiseling, sawing and assistance of a fork lift. Those photos will follow. Now that is all off the hull, the plan is to fix any areas of fiberglass that are cracked or need repair and then regelcoat, re-engineer the mounting brackets and backing plates and manufacture new ones, make extensions to the external rigging tubes. Once that is done reinstall the bracket and completely reseal the entire unit and install new flexible rigging hoses. Because there is VERY little known about these Salt Shaker brackets, I wanted to share as I could. [extra search tags: Walk Around, WalkAround, Whalerdrive, WhalerDrive, Saltshaker Marine]
jimh	posted 10-21-2013 11:28 AM ET (US) Thanks for the very interesting views inside the Saltshaker Whaler Drive. The details of the construction have never been seen before. It looks like the hull mold for the 23 Walkaround with the added Whaler Drive bracket is the same as for the standard notched transom. The bolts that attach the Saltshaker bracket are placed at the same level on the transom as the engine bolts would go on a notched transom. As you know, the foam-filled Whaler Drive (or perhaps we might call it the Dougherty Drive after its designer, Bob Dougherty) attaches to the transom using bolts--actually long rods--that are located above the line of the normal engine mounting bolts, and a new section of transom is fabricated to received those bolts. I have always thought that the Saltshaker bracket on the 23 Walkaround was quite long and the way it was fastened to the transom put a lot of loading on the transom when the boat was out of the water. The hull of the 23 Walkaround must have been designed to carry that extra load at the transom. Is there any sign of some transom knees n the hull to add support to the transom?
L H G	posted 10-21-2013 08:16 PM ET (US) Jeff - thanks for the photo sequence. Scary, and it's really unfortunate that this kind of major boat restoration is needed on a 20 year old Post Classic! I am really surprised to actually see how the Saltshaker transom bracket/Whaler Drive unit was designed and assembled. Looking at the terrible, corroded condition of the non-accessible interior surfaces and fittings, I think we can say Van Lancker/Reebock-Whaler did a lousy job on the design, completely forgetting about future maintenance. Now we know why Whaler only used this device for 3 years, and never used it on the successor Outrage 24's or any other later designs. As an owner of an aluminum Armstrong bracketed full transom Whaler, when it was intnroduced I was intrigued with the concept of a fiberglass transom bracket. It seemed like an interesting anti-corrosion alternative. Now we know why Saltshaker is gone, but Armstrong is still doing fine, and even being used today by Whaler Commercial Products, Regulator, etc. Looking at your Dad's situation, I now know the lightweight aluminum bracket holds up much better. My 1989 installation is as shiny on the outside, and as clean and non-corroded on the totally accessible inside as the day it was new. Even the engine bolting is totally concealed. I had always thought the Saltshaker fiberglass design was competely open inside, as my Armstong is. I never guessed it would have all those interior gussetts cluttering up the inside. I guess it was necessary for the structural strength. And rigging coming through the bracket interior seemed like a good idea, an improvement on the way mine is rigged, but I guess not. If this 23 was my boat, I know what I would do to clean up the design clutter. A new Armstong, with integral side platforms the width of choice, could be installed as a clean one-piece unit at the same height. Rigging tubes across the top of the platform would exist, but that eliinates any risk of corrosion and water infiltration. Epoxy coated in hull color, it would be a beautiful installation, lighter in weight, on the clean re-gelcoated transom. I would use 26" setback, decreasing setback stern weight considerably and improving overall boat appearance, and you could still walk out on it as necessary using the access door. To me the cost of the Armstrong installation, about $4000 max, would be worth the large amount of work needed to restore, re-configure and re-assemble, the old improperly designed original configuration and awkward fiberglass covering platform. This may seem like a radical idea, but really is an idea that can grow on you, and I only offer it as a suggestion for the rebuild. I love my Armstrong bracket installation. The boat is fast and quite fuel efficient, the Armstrong has excellent durabity and serviceablity, and good looks in my opinion, even after 24 years. I just saw a brand new Whaler 27 Guardian, factory rigged with an Armstong bracket and a pair of 200 L-4 Verados. Good luck with the restoration on whatever your Dad decides. It will be interesting to follow progress, and we all know you guys will do a beautiful job with whatever you do.
Jeff	posted 10-22-2013 09:47 PM ET (US) Larry, I know you really do not care much for anything post classic or VanLanker related. Honestly though, the boat / hull was well designed, thought out and has a high quality of craftsmanship. The bracket though was not designed or engineered by Whaler or VanLanker so you cant point fingers there. It was just integrated and installed by Whaler. Yes, there are some things that were good ideas but could have been executed better on the bracket design. We will change that on the rework. Putting an Armstrong Bracket on could be a route to go, but that is an investment beyond just the cost to buy it. And even Armstrong Brackets are not free of problems...mostly corrosion related. As with the other boats we have done...nothing EVER gets done 1/2 way. With some sweat equity, quality engineering and access to quality fabricators, the boat and bracket will be better than new once it's done.
jimh	posted 10-23-2013 12:51 AM ET (US) Jeff--I am certain that when your father and you complete the refurbishment there will be nothing left undone, and I look forward to seeing pictures of the work in progress. It looks to me that ingress of water into the interior of this craftily made engine set back bracket is likely to occur because of the unusual route of the rigging. It is really a beautiful concept that all of the engine wiring, hydraulic lines, battery cables, fuel hoses, oil hoses, and other things could be routed though that gorgous swim platform and out to the engines. That really makes the back of the boat clear of cables and rigging. The result is a wonderful stern platform, unlike any other I have ever seen on an outboard boat. This approach to hiding the rigging is particularly useful on a twin engine boat with a set back bracket. With the typical twin engines installation on a long set back bracket there is much rigging running across the set back bracket, making that area a trip hazard for anyone moving around on the stern platform. The 23 WALKAROUND design gets rid of all that mess on deck. I have to think that in the original form, with all the flexible tubes in good condition, that water would not be able to get into the interior of the set back bracket via the rigging openings. Perhaps if those tubes and flexible coverings were allowed to decay some water could get into the interior. It looks like there is some mildew on the fiberglass. I wonder if that came from freshwater use? I have heard that saltwater prevents mildew. Maybe it came from use in a tropical climate.
6992WHALER	posted 10-23-2013 11:46 AM ET (US) I think Jim is spot on on the major water intrusion rout. The rigging hose on my boat was rotten when I purchased her. I assumed the hose was primarily for looks. So it was low on my do do list. It took a while using the boat to realize that the hose was an integral part of the water integrity of the bracket. On Jeff's boat the previous owner had replaced the water tight rigging hoses with new split hoses. These hoses allowed water to enter the bracket. The other weakness is the need to maintain a caulk line between the bracket and the transom. I think the two main water entrance points are not design faults but maintenance issues. If the hoses and the caulk line are maintained the bracket should be water tight.
contender	posted 10-27-2013 06:44 PM ET (US) Jeff: I have a bracket as well on my larger boat, I did not like the design of the rigging going through the box and getting wet. 1st, my box is design to hold air its a solid cube with a drain in the bottom and an inspection plate on the top. Once you box fills with water you are not only carring extra weight but it pulls the back down. Next all of my rigging runs through a plastic black hose that has screwable connections for each end. This tubing is water tight and my cables and controls do not get wet. When I rigged the boat I sealed it with black 3m 5200 as well. I think this is something you should look at, with a couple of connections you could run a water tight tube through your box into the transom to other connections. I would look to moving the tube connection in front of the engines and seal/close the current ones. I would also look into sealing your box so it stays dry, or at least can drain easily.
mopee3	posted 04-03-2014 02:32 PM ET (US) I just purchased a used 1992 23' walkaround and am wondering what kind or model of Whalerdrive Bracket I have. Can someone tell me what to look for to identify the bracket? Thanks Monty
mopee3	posted 04-03-2014 04:23 PM ET (US) Found my answer. Thanks
EJO	posted 04-04-2014 12:28 PM ET (US) mopee3 But I haven't Enlighten us and Jeff I assume yours is redesigned and done please post pics.
Robert V	posted 04-04-2014 03:44 PM ET (US) That looks like a nice "little" project you have there! I am anxious to see the process and progress, please keep updating with pictures. Thanks for taking the time to share it on the forum.
Jeff	posted 04-06-2014 03:06 PM ET (US) EJO, The bracket is a Salt Shaker Marine produced bracket that Whaler installed at the factory. Though not the same as the early WhalerDrive brackets, Whaler still labeled it as and sold it under the moniker "WhalerDrive". These floatation box with swim platform style WhalerDrive Brackets were only installed on the 23' and 27' hulls in the early 1990's. Progress Update: It's has been a brutal winter up here in Michigan and the 23 Walkaround is still sitting in the storage warehouse with the head of production (my father) still in Florida. So, everything is still in pieces but all ready to get reinstalled. During the winter months the boat spent time over at Mike Stennett's Nautical Lumber / Neptune Yacht Refinishing's shop having a lot of fiberglass work done. The transom was repaired, resurfaced and regelcoated. The rigging tubes and thru-bolt mounting holes were cleaned out repaired, glassed over and gelcoated. Also, the transom bulkhead top cap was glassed to the transom creating one unified piece. I have no idea why Whaler did not do that on these models at the factory. The flotation box's transom mounting face was repaired, resurfaced and regelcoated. Also, all the rigging tubes and thru-bolt mounting holes (both transom and motor) were cleaned out, repaired , glassed over and gel coated. Finally the swim platform has some repairs and rebuilding of the stingers where the boarding ladders are mounted. All in all there has been a lot that has gone into the this so far and a lot more to reinstall everything. But once it is done, it should be better than new and last for decades to come. Here are updated pics. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive/Fiberglass%20rerpairs?sort=2&page=1
dfmcintyre	posted 04-06-2014 07:39 PM ET (US) Jeff - So no more high speed runs into Lexington!
welldan18650	posted 04-07-2014 07:07 PM ET (US) What a job, have you any hour total? I owned an exact sister ship that persistently leaked. I only went as far as removing the entire top (for which I found no degradation to your scale) resealed everything and upsized the fasteners and guess what, IT STILL LEAKED. The leak must have been between the bracket and hull. Thought I had it calked but who knows. Anyone buying one of these boats should count on hitting the repeat button on your project. Thanks for the chronicle, great work.
mopee3	posted 04-13-2014 10:57 PM ET (US) EJO, I realized that I have the Saltshaker platform like Jeff's that is all I was saying. I will put caulk around the platform/drive before we put in the water. I need to replace the plastic tubes because we have split tubing right now. Work to be done. Monty
mopee3	posted 04-17-2014 01:18 PM ET (US) Jeff, The jump seats behind the main seats, did they come with your Whaler or did you add them. West Marine lists a seat like them for $215, which seems steep but we really need seats in the deck area. Monty
Jeff	posted 01-24-2015 10:23 PM ET (US) Mopee, those seat where installed by Whaler. They used this boat as their floor display boat for the 1993 Miami Boatshow. They are the same as the seats they used for the stern jump seats on the Classic Whalers with I/O's. UPDATE I was finally able to get all of the photos from the competition of this project. These photos show the full re-installation of the bracket, hanging of and rerigging of the motors, installation of the swim platform and recalking of it all. You can see, my father made new heavy duty aluminum backing plates for all of the thru-bolts through the transom and for the motors. Here are the Photos http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jeff_rohlfing/library/ 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive/Installation%20of%20the%20Bracket?sort=2& page=1 The boat performed awesome all summer and I never once saw evidence of water in the platform.