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Author Topic:   Testing trailer surge brakes

JMARTIN posted 10-25-2013 05:36 PM ET (US)
Is there a way to test the brakes without any real weight on the trailer?
John
Mambo Minnow posted 10-25-2013 06:26 PM ET (US)
Yes, I have seen graphics that depict using a 2x4 piece of wood and the tie down chains crossed over it to actuate the surge brakes and see if the brakes are applied at the wheels. Difficult to explain with just text here.
kmev posted 10-25-2013 09:12 PM ET (US)
There is usually a way to actuate the master cylinder with a screw driver for other type of lever for bleeding. Look for a hole or slot somewhere on the coupler.
andygere posted 10-26-2013 05:47 PM ET (US)
You can work the actuator with a screwdriver on most couplers. There's usually a slot provided for this. If not, take the draw bar out of the receiver on your truck, and lock the hitch ball into the coupler. You can use the draw bar as a lever to actuate the brakes. Jack the trailer up, put it on jack stands and get a helper to spin the wheel. While the wheel is spinning, actuate the brakes to test them.
PeteB88 posted 10-26-2013 05:55 PM ET (US)
Sure, don't do what I do - kind of a funny story... When I got my Outrage trailer had surge brakes. WOA, that was pretty cool I thought. So one time I was hauling to an inland lake 30 miles or so from our place. On the way, we passed my buddy's hunting paradise on cool two lane country road, good road, stripes and everything, shoulders so on a straight away I thought "well, I'll just slam on the brakes and see how cool these trailer brakes work... " I did several trials; 30 MPH, 40MPH, 50 MPH (not a full on slam on pedal at that speed) - everything seemed just fine. I said "wow, these trailer brakes work so well you can't even feel them, smooth as silk...."
So, a few days later I pulled the cap off the reservoir and it was bone dry and rusty. Took a close look at the brake lines, snapped, no fluid probably for years.
Lucky I didn't fish tail the rig.
JMARTIN posted 10-28-2013 03:25 PM ET (US)
The hitch ball lever worked great Andy, thanks for the idea. They seem to work just fine.
I was going to slam on the brakes on a gravel road and look for skid marks.
John
Lil Whaler Lover posted 10-28-2013 07:22 PM ET (US)
A rather simple, but effective way to check the operation is to back the trailer up a hill after checking to be sure you have disabled the the reverse lockouts. If the brakes work the trailer tires will not roll easily.
andygere posted 10-29-2013 06:07 PM ET (US)
If you have drum brakes, you need to rotate the wheels to manually set the star adjusters, which are often rusty and frozen. Having each wheel properly adjusted really helps in terms of getting even braking on each wheel.
acseatsri posted 10-30-2013 07:48 PM ET (US)
I'm not sure pulling the actuator by hand is a good test. It may tell if the brakes work, but it won't tell you if you have air in the lines, which would negate most of the stopping power.
andygere posted 10-30-2013 10:55 PM ET (US)
If you have air in the lines, you will get a hard thunk as the actuator bottoms out with every stop. It's always a good idea to bleed the brakes if the trailer hasn't been used in a while, or if repairs have been made to the braking system. It's easy to pump the actuator with the draw bar for that process too. in general though, if the system isn't leaking, and there's plenty of fluid in the master cylinder, the likelihood of air in the lines is pretty low.

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Author	Topic: Testing trailer surge brakes
JMARTIN	posted 10-25-2013 05:36 PM ET (US) Is there a way to test the brakes without any real weight on the trailer? John
Mambo Minnow	posted 10-25-2013 06:26 PM ET (US) Yes, I have seen graphics that depict using a 2x4 piece of wood and the tie down chains crossed over it to actuate the surge brakes and see if the brakes are applied at the wheels. Difficult to explain with just text here.
kmev	posted 10-25-2013 09:12 PM ET (US) There is usually a way to actuate the master cylinder with a screw driver for other type of lever for bleeding. Look for a hole or slot somewhere on the coupler.
andygere	posted 10-26-2013 05:47 PM ET (US) You can work the actuator with a screwdriver on most couplers. There's usually a slot provided for this. If not, take the draw bar out of the receiver on your truck, and lock the hitch ball into the coupler. You can use the draw bar as a lever to actuate the brakes. Jack the trailer up, put it on jack stands and get a helper to spin the wheel. While the wheel is spinning, actuate the brakes to test them.
PeteB88	posted 10-26-2013 05:55 PM ET (US) Sure, don't do what I do - kind of a funny story... When I got my Outrage trailer had surge brakes. WOA, that was pretty cool I thought. So one time I was hauling to an inland lake 30 miles or so from our place. On the way, we passed my buddy's hunting paradise on cool two lane country road, good road, stripes and everything, shoulders so on a straight away I thought "well, I'll just slam on the brakes and see how cool these trailer brakes work... " I did several trials; 30 MPH, 40MPH, 50 MPH (not a full on slam on pedal at that speed) - everything seemed just fine. I said "wow, these trailer brakes work so well you can't even feel them, smooth as silk...." So, a few days later I pulled the cap off the reservoir and it was bone dry and rusty. Took a close look at the brake lines, snapped, no fluid probably for years. Lucky I didn't fish tail the rig.
JMARTIN	posted 10-28-2013 03:25 PM ET (US) The hitch ball lever worked great Andy, thanks for the idea. They seem to work just fine. I was going to slam on the brakes on a gravel road and look for skid marks. John
Lil Whaler Lover	posted 10-28-2013 07:22 PM ET (US) A rather simple, but effective way to check the operation is to back the trailer up a hill after checking to be sure you have disabled the the reverse lockouts. If the brakes work the trailer tires will not roll easily.
andygere	posted 10-29-2013 06:07 PM ET (US) If you have drum brakes, you need to rotate the wheels to manually set the star adjusters, which are often rusty and frozen. Having each wheel properly adjusted really helps in terms of getting even braking on each wheel.
acseatsri	posted 10-30-2013 07:48 PM ET (US) I'm not sure pulling the actuator by hand is a good test. It may tell if the brakes work, but it won't tell you if you have air in the lines, which would negate most of the stopping power.
andygere	posted 10-30-2013 10:55 PM ET (US) If you have air in the lines, you will get a hard thunk as the actuator bottoms out with every stop. It's always a good idea to bleed the brakes if the trailer hasn't been used in a while, or if repairs have been made to the braking system. It's easy to pump the actuator with the draw bar for that process too. in general though, if the system isn't leaking, and there's plenty of fluid in the master cylinder, the likelihood of air in the lines is pretty low.