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Author Topic:   1973 Outrage Trailer

grandmufti posted 10-31-2013 08:17 AM ET (US)
I have a 1973 Outrage currently riding on the original roller trailer. Trailer rollers have damaged my hull in a couple of places. I really need a new bunk trailer for my boat and have no clue as to what brand of trailer will work with this style hull. To those of you that are familiar with this style hull, what are you using or what would you recommend? Or is it possible to modify my current trailer to work with bunks? I would like to keep the trailer foot print as small as possible so I can continue storage in my garage. Please Help?
jimh posted 10-31-2013 08:47 AM ET (US)
It is possible to refurbish your trailer by removing the floppy rollers, adding bunks, and adding keel rollers. But you should consider the general condition of the trailer before embarking on a refurbishment. Buying all the hardware and components as replacement parts at retail will soon add up to a cost that will approach a new trailer. Unless your present trailer is in as-new condition, selling your present trailer and buying a new one may cost not much more than a comprehensive refurbishment, and it will save a lot of your labor.
grandmufti posted 10-31-2013 09:04 AM ET (US)
Jim;do you have recommendation on a trailer brand that you know would work with this style boat
andygere posted 10-31-2013 10:55 AM ET (US)
Most trailers manufactured today are adjustable and can be fit to your hull. The two basic types on the market these days are galvanized bunk trailers and aluminum bunk trailers. Aluminum trailers are substantially lighter, and if assembled with stainless fasteners provide excellent corrosion resistance. Galvanized trailers are a bit cheaper, and can provide good corrosion resistance as well. Both types can be had with a folding tongue, which will help ensure that it will fit in your garage.
Having worked on a number of older boat trailers, the fact is that in many cases you can rehabilitate them and add some service life. I do not recommended it for a 1973 trailer. You will be time and money ahead to buy a new one from a reputable dealer, who can set it up correctly for your boat. To convert your trailer from rollers to bunks will likely cost you more in materials than the trailer will be worth when it's done. You may get a few hundred dollars on the used market for your current trailer as-is, when it will become someone else's problem.
jimh posted 10-31-2013 01:05 PM ET (US)
I see you are in Ohio. There are many trailer retailers in Ohio on the Lake Erie shoreline.
As I see it, there are two ways to buy a trailer (or just about anything, for that matter). You can find some retailer, perhaps 1,500-mles away, that sells what you need for some amount of money less than others. You can buy it from that guy, maybe driving 3,000 miles to get it, or maybe having it shipped to you. The retailer never sees you again (or at all), and if you need some follow up service, you are on your own. Or, you can find some local retailer who sells a trailer you like, and work with that dealer on the price. You might pay more.
You may also get recommendations to buy the trailer out of state and import it to Ohio, avoiding paying sales tax. With a trailer, that is going to be hard to accomplish because you are going to have to get a license plate for the trailer. I suspect the process of buying a license plate will elicit some payment of sales tax on a new trailer.
Trailers tend to come in two distinct flavors: nationally distributed brands and local-only or regional-only brands. Because there are so many boaters in northern Ohio, it is a good bet there are some local-only or regional-only brands.
You may also get advice on upgrading every piece of hardware to stainless steel. This is probably not necessary if you are a freshwater-only trailer boater. Good quality galvanized hardware will have a long service life in freshwater.
If you are near the Lake Erie shore, I'd drop in at a few retailers to see what brands they offer in trailers, and look for a trailer with bunk support in the stern and keel rollers in the bow area.
andygere posted 10-31-2013 03:00 PM ET (US)
The biggest problem with galvanized fasteners is that the process of threading the nuts onto the bolts tends to wear away the protective plating where it is precisely needed: at the point where the nut and bolt meet. If you never have to remove the nut, or loosen it up for adjustment, it's probably fine. What I found when taking on a recent refurbishment project on a galvanized boat trailer was that despite looking good cosmetically, almost all of the galvanized nuts were seized to the U-bolts. Even with penetrating oil and in some cases heat, most of them snapped off, and all of them had to be replaced. When I purchased a replacement aluminum trailer for my Outrage 22 Cuddy, I was pleasantly surprised at the cost of upgrading the fasteners to stainless steel. It was an easy decision to do so.
frontier posted 10-31-2013 04:57 PM ET (US)
Beware of the strength of bolts used.
The bolts used on most galvanized boat trailers are Grade 5 strength rating (3 marks on the head).
Grade 2 = no marks on head of bolt.
Grade 5 = 3 marks.
Grade 8 = 6 marks. (commonly called "Cat" bolts because of high strength).
Because of alloy content, most stainless bolts are around Grade 2 strength rating.
grandmufti posted 11-02-2013 10:02 PM ET (US)
Thanks all for your input.It helped a lot.

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Author	Topic: 1973 Outrage Trailer
grandmufti	posted 10-31-2013 08:17 AM ET (US) I have a 1973 Outrage currently riding on the original roller trailer. Trailer rollers have damaged my hull in a couple of places. I really need a new bunk trailer for my boat and have no clue as to what brand of trailer will work with this style hull. To those of you that are familiar with this style hull, what are you using or what would you recommend? Or is it possible to modify my current trailer to work with bunks? I would like to keep the trailer foot print as small as possible so I can continue storage in my garage. Please Help?
jimh	posted 10-31-2013 08:47 AM ET (US) It is possible to refurbish your trailer by removing the floppy rollers, adding bunks, and adding keel rollers. But you should consider the general condition of the trailer before embarking on a refurbishment. Buying all the hardware and components as replacement parts at retail will soon add up to a cost that will approach a new trailer. Unless your present trailer is in as-new condition, selling your present trailer and buying a new one may cost not much more than a comprehensive refurbishment, and it will save a lot of your labor.
grandmufti	posted 10-31-2013 09:04 AM ET (US) Jim;do you have recommendation on a trailer brand that you know would work with this style boat
andygere	posted 10-31-2013 10:55 AM ET (US) Most trailers manufactured today are adjustable and can be fit to your hull. The two basic types on the market these days are galvanized bunk trailers and aluminum bunk trailers. Aluminum trailers are substantially lighter, and if assembled with stainless fasteners provide excellent corrosion resistance. Galvanized trailers are a bit cheaper, and can provide good corrosion resistance as well. Both types can be had with a folding tongue, which will help ensure that it will fit in your garage. Having worked on a number of older boat trailers, the fact is that in many cases you can rehabilitate them and add some service life. I do not recommended it for a 1973 trailer. You will be time and money ahead to buy a new one from a reputable dealer, who can set it up correctly for your boat. To convert your trailer from rollers to bunks will likely cost you more in materials than the trailer will be worth when it's done. You may get a few hundred dollars on the used market for your current trailer as-is, when it will become someone else's problem.
jimh	posted 10-31-2013 01:05 PM ET (US) I see you are in Ohio. There are many trailer retailers in Ohio on the Lake Erie shoreline. As I see it, there are two ways to buy a trailer (or just about anything, for that matter). You can find some retailer, perhaps 1,500-mles away, that sells what you need for some amount of money less than others. You can buy it from that guy, maybe driving 3,000 miles to get it, or maybe having it shipped to you. The retailer never sees you again (or at all), and if you need some follow up service, you are on your own. Or, you can find some local retailer who sells a trailer you like, and work with that dealer on the price. You might pay more. You may also get recommendations to buy the trailer out of state and import it to Ohio, avoiding paying sales tax. With a trailer, that is going to be hard to accomplish because you are going to have to get a license plate for the trailer. I suspect the process of buying a license plate will elicit some payment of sales tax on a new trailer. Trailers tend to come in two distinct flavors: nationally distributed brands and local-only or regional-only brands. Because there are so many boaters in northern Ohio, it is a good bet there are some local-only or regional-only brands. You may also get advice on upgrading every piece of hardware to stainless steel. This is probably not necessary if you are a freshwater-only trailer boater. Good quality galvanized hardware will have a long service life in freshwater. If you are near the Lake Erie shore, I'd drop in at a few retailers to see what brands they offer in trailers, and look for a trailer with bunk support in the stern and keel rollers in the bow area.
andygere	posted 10-31-2013 03:00 PM ET (US) The biggest problem with galvanized fasteners is that the process of threading the nuts onto the bolts tends to wear away the protective plating where it is precisely needed: at the point where the nut and bolt meet. If you never have to remove the nut, or loosen it up for adjustment, it's probably fine. What I found when taking on a recent refurbishment project on a galvanized boat trailer was that despite looking good cosmetically, almost all of the galvanized nuts were seized to the U-bolts. Even with penetrating oil and in some cases heat, most of them snapped off, and all of them had to be replaced. When I purchased a replacement aluminum trailer for my Outrage 22 Cuddy, I was pleasantly surprised at the cost of upgrading the fasteners to stainless steel. It was an easy decision to do so.
frontier	posted 10-31-2013 04:57 PM ET (US) Beware of the strength of bolts used. The bolts used on most galvanized boat trailers are Grade 5 strength rating (3 marks on the head). Grade 2 = no marks on head of bolt. Grade 5 = 3 marks. Grade 8 = 6 marks. (commonly called "Cat" bolts because of high strength). Because of alloy content, most stainless bolts are around Grade 2 strength rating.
grandmufti	posted 11-02-2013 10:02 PM ET (US) Thanks all for your input.It helped a lot.