Pulling deck panels - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Pulling deck panels

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Pulling deck panels

PeteB88 posted 11-29-2013 02:45 PM ET (US)
I'm into preventive maintenance and have been thinking, for some time, about pulling up my Outrage 17 (1995) deck panels this winter for inspection. There are no known issues, boat is tidy and runs great but there's a long winter ahead and if my boat is on the warm side of the storage facility, I might just dig in. I am aware of info posted and photos available on this site and others especially PhilTs boat. I just thought I'd run it past the crew for reaction/response. Since boat has only been in fresh water, I do not suspect any problems with 34 gallon fuel tank. But, you never know.
This said, I will be making a list of what to inspect and perhaps replace as preventive. If anyone wants to add items to the list, that would be great. I am also unsure if I have to caulk seams or what the procedure is. At same time I will install a two battery system w/ switch. The former owner moved the battery to console and cut hole in console floor for the battery. I plan to evaluate to see if I should restore the floor and have batteries off the deck. I assume he cut out a hole so battery would sit on hull floor and possibly create more room for stuff (junk usually) in console
Thanks in advance!
ConB posted 11-29-2013 03:07 PM ET (US)
Don't fix it if it ain't broke! ;-)
Con
Buckda posted 11-29-2013 03:56 PM ET (US)
I'm no physics professor, but I'm pretty sure that an 80 lb battery exerts a "moment force" several times that when you smack into waves repeatedly. X that by two if you add a battery. The deck can handle that kind of loading. The restored floor of your console probably cannot.
Re: pulling the deck. I agree with Con. This is a very big project. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Look at me as an example. I started to just refurbish the gelcoat, and now my 25 is in a million pieces...once you start, it's easy to say:
"Well, since I'm in here, I ought to fix that!"
Say it several times and you'll find yourself rebuilding the whole damn boat.
saumon posted 12-01-2013 07:43 PM ET (US)
Pete,
the previous owner of my Outrage also removed the deck panel to fix a soft soft and find out that, even if it's not available anymore from Twin Cities, the Starbrite almond caulking can now be ordered in small quantities directly from the company.
Here's what's on the receipt, dated May 2012, when he ordered 2 tubes:
Star Brite Inc.
4041 S.W. 47 Avenue
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33314
Tel: (954) 587-6280
Fax: (954) 587-2813
Item number: 082155EA
Description: Each, 300 ML-SIL.SLNT/Almond 10.3oz
Unit price: 12.25
PeteB88 posted 12-02-2013 11:56 PM ET (US)
Well, you guys are right. I was thinking inspecting fuel lines, cleaning up gunk and checking the fuel tank would be a good idea if not a huge hassle.
Thanks
Phil T posted 12-05-2013 09:54 AM ET (US)
Pete -
I removed my deck cover and documented the work in a project album:
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphotogallery_3.php?user_id=20
A few things to note.
=When you lift the cover, there is one screw holding the rigging tray to the cover.
=You will need to seal the rigging hole in the cover.
=I suggest you remake the rigging flange per my comments to keep water out of the cavity.
=I used Boat Life caulk in white and it was fine.
=Changing the fill hose is a bit of a bear at the gunnel fitting. Removing the fill fitting makes it easier. Caulk the exposed wood in the gunnel cap.
Let me know if you have any questions.
PeteB88 posted 12-08-2013 11:28 PM ET (US)
Thanks Phil, you've always been right there with help and advice. Best
RMS posted 12-09-2013 08:39 AM ET (US)
Pete,
I am the second owner of a 1993 Outrage 17 which I purchased three years ago. The prior owner docked the boat in salt water for six months a year and after reading of fuel tanks deteriorating I pulled the deck panel last winter. Removing the foamed in place tank was difficult, there being very little space between the tank wall and the fuel cavity. After removing the tank, I found the foam dry and minimal corrosion on the tank. Given my experience, along with the fact that your boat is from fresh water, consider leaving well enough alone or perhaps remove the deck panel but leave the tank intact.
The console floor of my boat had two cut-outs covered with a Starboard type material. The size of the cut-outs mirrored the size of the battery box and VRO oil tank which were mounted in the transom. I inquired of the the original owner of my boat who stated the cut-outs were original to the boat, and that the battery and oil tank were always mounted at the transom. Apparently either the factory or dealership determined that if an owner were to mount heavy items in the console, those items should be on the deck, not the console floor. I did relocate my battery to the console, BTW. The matching almond caulk is available at West Marine, via special order.
If you have additional questions, just ask. And let us know how the project goes, if you decide to go there.
Bob
PeteB88 posted 12-10-2013 03:12 PM ET (US)
Well... I'm not gonna do it at least right no. It's almost like a curiosity thing - I'd love to know what's under those panels, maybe change hoses etc as a preventive and scrub things up but you're right, probably no real reason considering use in fresh water and relatively low hours/year.
I am considering a two battery system both mounted in the console. I also get frustrated with fuel gauges - one on the helm panel and one visible if you pull up an inspection cover. They cannot be accurate.
However, if I do decide to dig in I will certainly check out Phil's excellent reference docs and appreciate your offer to assist with questions...
Best
RMS posted 12-11-2013 12:36 PM ET (US)
Pete,
As part of my project I replaced the fuel gauge sending unit with a new Wema unit. The shape of the tank (trapezoid) makes for difficulty getting an accurate reading. As I recall, for an additional fee Wema could fine tune the sending unit to make the level readings highly accurate. I didn't bother with that up charge. Bob
PeteB88 posted 12-18-2013 05:39 PM ET (US)
Thanks RMS - I appreciate it. Will check out

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Pulling deck panels
PeteB88	posted 11-29-2013 02:45 PM ET (US) I'm into preventive maintenance and have been thinking, for some time, about pulling up my Outrage 17 (1995) deck panels this winter for inspection. There are no known issues, boat is tidy and runs great but there's a long winter ahead and if my boat is on the warm side of the storage facility, I might just dig in. I am aware of info posted and photos available on this site and others especially PhilTs boat. I just thought I'd run it past the crew for reaction/response. Since boat has only been in fresh water, I do not suspect any problems with 34 gallon fuel tank. But, you never know. This said, I will be making a list of what to inspect and perhaps replace as preventive. If anyone wants to add items to the list, that would be great. I am also unsure if I have to caulk seams or what the procedure is. At same time I will install a two battery system w/ switch. The former owner moved the battery to console and cut hole in console floor for the battery. I plan to evaluate to see if I should restore the floor and have batteries off the deck. I assume he cut out a hole so battery would sit on hull floor and possibly create more room for stuff (junk usually) in console Thanks in advance!
ConB	posted 11-29-2013 03:07 PM ET (US) Don't fix it if it ain't broke! ;-) Con
Buckda	posted 11-29-2013 03:56 PM ET (US) I'm no physics professor, but I'm pretty sure that an 80 lb battery exerts a "moment force" several times that when you smack into waves repeatedly. X that by two if you add a battery. The deck can handle that kind of loading. The restored floor of your console probably cannot. Re: pulling the deck. I agree with Con. This is a very big project. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Look at me as an example. I started to just refurbish the gelcoat, and now my 25 is in a million pieces...once you start, it's easy to say: "Well, since I'm in here, I ought to fix that!" Say it several times and you'll find yourself rebuilding the whole damn boat.
saumon	posted 12-01-2013 07:43 PM ET (US) Pete, the previous owner of my Outrage also removed the deck panel to fix a soft soft and find out that, even if it's not available anymore from Twin Cities, the Starbrite almond caulking can now be ordered in small quantities directly from the company. Here's what's on the receipt, dated May 2012, when he ordered 2 tubes: Star Brite Inc. 4041 S.W. 47 Avenue Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33314 Tel: (954) 587-6280 Fax: (954) 587-2813 Item number: 082155EA Description: Each, 300 ML-SIL.SLNT/Almond 10.3oz Unit price: 12.25
PeteB88	posted 12-02-2013 11:56 PM ET (US) Well, you guys are right. I was thinking inspecting fuel lines, cleaning up gunk and checking the fuel tank would be a good idea if not a huge hassle. Thanks
Phil T	posted 12-05-2013 09:54 AM ET (US) Pete - I removed my deck cover and documented the work in a project album: http://www.whalercentral.com/userphotogallery_3.php?user_id=20 A few things to note. =When you lift the cover, there is one screw holding the rigging tray to the cover. =You will need to seal the rigging hole in the cover. =I suggest you remake the rigging flange per my comments to keep water out of the cavity. =I used Boat Life caulk in white and it was fine. =Changing the fill hose is a bit of a bear at the gunnel fitting. Removing the fill fitting makes it easier. Caulk the exposed wood in the gunnel cap. Let me know if you have any questions.
PeteB88	posted 12-08-2013 11:28 PM ET (US) Thanks Phil, you've always been right there with help and advice. Best
RMS	posted 12-09-2013 08:39 AM ET (US) Pete, I am the second owner of a 1993 Outrage 17 which I purchased three years ago. The prior owner docked the boat in salt water for six months a year and after reading of fuel tanks deteriorating I pulled the deck panel last winter. Removing the foamed in place tank was difficult, there being very little space between the tank wall and the fuel cavity. After removing the tank, I found the foam dry and minimal corrosion on the tank. Given my experience, along with the fact that your boat is from fresh water, consider leaving well enough alone or perhaps remove the deck panel but leave the tank intact. The console floor of my boat had two cut-outs covered with a Starboard type material. The size of the cut-outs mirrored the size of the battery box and VRO oil tank which were mounted in the transom. I inquired of the the original owner of my boat who stated the cut-outs were original to the boat, and that the battery and oil tank were always mounted at the transom. Apparently either the factory or dealership determined that if an owner were to mount heavy items in the console, those items should be on the deck, not the console floor. I did relocate my battery to the console, BTW. The matching almond caulk is available at West Marine, via special order. If you have additional questions, just ask. And let us know how the project goes, if you decide to go there. Bob
PeteB88	posted 12-10-2013 03:12 PM ET (US) Well... I'm not gonna do it at least right no. It's almost like a curiosity thing - I'd love to know what's under those panels, maybe change hoses etc as a preventive and scrub things up but you're right, probably no real reason considering use in fresh water and relatively low hours/year. I am considering a two battery system both mounted in the console. I also get frustrated with fuel gauges - one on the helm panel and one visible if you pull up an inspection cover. They cannot be accurate. However, if I do decide to dig in I will certainly check out Phil's excellent reference docs and appreciate your offer to assist with questions... Best
RMS	posted 12-11-2013 12:36 PM ET (US) Pete, As part of my project I replaced the fuel gauge sending unit with a new Wema unit. The shape of the tank (trapezoid) makes for difficulty getting an accurate reading. As I recall, for an additional fee Wema could fine tune the sending unit to make the level readings highly accurate. I didn't bother with that up charge. Bob
PeteB88	posted 12-18-2013 05:39 PM ET (US) Thanks RMS - I appreciate it. Will check out