posted 01-18-2014 02:31 PM ET (US)        

It occurs to me that I should have an easy access point back into the boat for safety sake in case of a man overboard situation. Both my wife and I are getting older, and my kids and grandkids, as well as my wife, would enjoy taking a swim occasionally.

posted 01-18-2014 04:23 PM ET (US)            

I have a few pics of the mount with the trolling motor still attached here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99787852@N06/9423764235/in/ set-72157634909375698

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99787852@N06/9423764207/in/ set-72157634909375698

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99787852@N06/9426532964/in/ set-72157634909375698

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99787852@N06/9426533056/in/ set-72157634909375698

Any ideas on what that stainless steel plate was used for originally? My boat tech has suggested it was originally a spare anchor hold down, but I can't see how it would have worked myself.

Additionally, I would prefer a flat folding ladder that would stow completely out of the way on top of the whaler drive but still be accessible from the water in case of emergency. The Armstrong style ladder in the pic above is completely unacceptable for my use, as it is stowed full up while underway, and would cause insurmountable difficulties while fishing/trolling in my opinion.

Here is what I have right now to work with:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99787852@N06/10355454256/

posted 01-19-2014 10:31 AM ET (US)            

I am in a similar situation in having a Whaler Drive boat and having a desire for a swim ladder. To be able to deploy the swim ladder from the water is a good feature. You can't always assume you'll have deployed the swim ladder before you end up in the water. I have not implemented a perfect solution, yet, but I am working on it.

The best solution may be to have a telescoping swim ladder mounted on the Whaler Drive so it rotates from its stored position about 270-degrees to the deployed position. When telescoped and stowed it will sit on the top of the Whaler Drive in the area outboard from the engine well. When deployed it will hang over the outboard side of the Whaler Drive. I don't know if there is a preference for Port side or Starboard side mounting. That may be affected by other gear mounted at the stern.

The root problem for locating the swim ladder in that position is a general lack of any reinforcement material under the upper laminate layer of the Whaler Drive. The solution to this was proposed to me by Boston Whaler Customer Service expert Chuck Bennett. His suggestion was to proceed as follows:

--remove the aluminum trim piece that wraps around the edge of the Whaler Drive at the bend where the top deck and sides meet;

--using a small saw and perhaps a very thin cut-off wheel, cut away the laminate in two areas that will be underneath the aluminum trim; these two areas will located where the swim ladder hinges will lay on the deck of the Whaler Drive; the laminate is removed in about a two-inch wide area, which should reveal the foam interior;

--using some sort of improvised tool, perhaps a thin knife or a putty knife with a sharp edge, remove the foam to create a pocket, working your way into the interior of the Whaler Drive to enough depth to reach far enough to be beyond the area where the screw fasteners for the ladder hinge will be located; try to make the pocket you are creating as square-sided and true as possible;

--when the two pockets have been created, fabricate some reinforcement material to the fit into the pockets; the pocket and the reinforcement material should be a very snug fit, and should be large enough to create an area for spreading the load from the ladder hinges;

--fit the ladder hinges in place temporarily; mark and drill the holes for the fasteners in the deck; check the location of the holes with the reinforcement material to sure they are going to land on the reinforcement;

--mix some thickeners into epoxy resin; instill the thickened resin into the pocket and onto the reinforcement material; insert the reinforcement into the pocket; note that the reinforcement should be flush or below the original laminate on the outside edge;

--reinstall the two cut-out sections of the laminate, covering the pocket where the reinforcement has been installed;

--allow all the resins to cure;

--repair the edges and gaps of the cut-out laminate to the hull to create a reasonably decent repair;

--reinstall the aluminum trim piece; it will hide most of the modification;

--install the swim ladder hinges; carefully fastening the screws into the reinforcement.

The material used for the reinforcement should be something that will create a good bond with epoxy or other resin. I would not use non-polar materials like ultra-high molecular weight (UHMW) plastics, e.g., King StarBoard or similar plastics, as those do not bond well with most adhesives. I have thought of using an aluminum plate, and pre-tapping the holes in the plate so that regular machine screws could be used for the fasteners, but I am not sure if that is necessary or desirable. Aluminum might not bond well. Perhaps just a good wood, as used for many other areas of reinforcement, would be best. I am not a wood expert, but some sort of wood, perhaps Oak, that will really hold a screw fastener, would be best. Of course, seal the wood with epoxy.

I also think the pocket cannot be made so deeply, nor is it particularly desirable, that the pocket will extend to the inner mounting holes of the swim ladder hinge, which usually are at least six inches away from the outer holes. For the inner holes, I would create a reinforcement under the laminate by using a small improvised tool to remove foam under the laminate in a circular area around the mounting hole. Into the pocket created a thickened resin can be instilled, creating a hidden puck of thickened resin below the deck. A screw fastener can be installed into the puck of resin, and there should be some load spreading. If you use this method, be careful not to instill too much resin at one time, as a large glob of resin can become very hot while curing. This could lead to a sort of China-Syndrome problem with the hot resin causing the foam to melt away under it.

I have not tried this myself. I have been thinking about doing it for about ten years, ever since first acquiring my Whaler Drive boat. It is one of those projects that has not been completed.

posted 01-19-2014 10:37 AM ET (US)            

--fabricate a new deck area that will fit atop the existing Whaler Drive outboard deck section; use a material that will be able to accept a screw fastener, for example, a material like King StarBoard or marine plywood;

--if using plywood, coat with epoxy and stain or varnish to desired color and gloss;

--install the new top deck over the existing Whaler Drive laminate deck;

--fasten the new deck to the existing deck using a multitude of small screw fasteners, distributing the loading to the existing deck in many places;

posted 01-19-2014 02:24 PM ET (US)            

The current SS plate that is on top of the Whaler drive was mounted to the platform area using the method you site as being suggested by Chuck Bennet. In addition to this, a support has been added on the powder coated false ransom piece which is fastened to the Whaler drive s well.

This false transom powder coated piece sits 2" behind the Whaler Drive, so I don't think the trim tabs will be interfered with at all. Since one of my primary requirements is that the ladder be stowed folded flat on the whaler drive deck when underway, the trim tab location should be irrelevant.

I guess the biggest problem is how and where to place handholds for a ladder's use. I know I can get a folding ladder that will work for the ladder, but how am I going to make it usable? Without something to grab onto as you climb up the ladder and swing onto the deck, you still might not be able to get back into the boat in rough seas in an emergency situation. Especially if you are exhausted from swimming to the boat before you get to the ladder.