posted 01-25-2014 12:43 PM ET (US)        

I picked up this trailer cheap, it had been so poorly used that someone bolted the axle directly to the frame instead of replacing the rusted away springs.

SO...brought it home, installed proper springs and now am trying to figure out how to configure the supports for the hull.

My question is.......do try to install some rollers? Put a 2 by 8 board down the center and do a rough cut and install on the side wood bunks? Or what? Maybe do a rough adjustement on the current wood that is installed on the cross beams, load the boat and see what happens?

THe trailer is Aluminium slide on out of St Petersburg FL. It is one the early models with leaf springs instead of torsion springs. Here is a link to my photo bucket lib.

http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/ocean31/library/?sort=3&page=1

Currently there is three large pieces of wood set on the only three cross beams/members and two very large side bunks.

Does any else have this kind of trailer? If so how is your wood configured? Should I just junk the wood and see if I can install three rollers? Just three rollers seems to few.

Thoughts?

Thanks

posted 01-25-2014 09:38 PM ET (US)            

Yes, unbolt the amateurish wooden blocks and throw them away. Likewise, remove the bunks and discard them.

Add brackets and rollers to each cross beam (or double rollers if it makes you fell better) and then a pair of small carpeted bunks with adjustable brackets. All of that is simple off-the-shelf stuff that can be ordered form any number of vendors.

The photos do not show the trailer in its entirety, but it appears another cross beam could be added at the ends of the main frame rails.

I'd remove the winch stand and its support (which are painted steel) and have them hot-dipped.

posted 01-26-2014 10:51 AM ET (US)            

I replaced the axles with new drop axles to lower the trailer frame. Then I added 3 C-channel cross members to the two that were original. I installed double keel rollers on the cross members. This lowered the boat so that the clearance between the sponson keels and fenders was a little over an inch.

The bunks are mounted on top of the main frame rails. The connection between the frame rails and the wood bunk is staggered lag bolts from under the top flange of the rails. I can see the lag bolt holes on the top of your trailer rails.

The tops of the bunks are ripped to match the hull dead rise. I replaced the bunks to match the new elevation of the hull, with the keel firmly bearing on the rollers. It is important to have the angle of this cut be correct.

I was used to a roller trailer under my Sakonnet, so the learning curve was pretty steep with the larger boat and the bunk trailer. The launching turned into a piece of cake with the new setup.

It took me a while to get the loading figured out. It turned out that it was better to have the trailer further out of the water while loading, as the keel would positively engage the aft keel roller, keeping it centered on the trailer while winching the boat to traveling position.

I hope this helps,

Doug Vazquez

posted 01-26-2014 10:57 AM ET (US)            

It would seem that Ownens and Sons configures each trailer slightly different using the basic system of three large V shaped wood blocks in the center, then Two large/Tall wood bunk boards. THese boards may either be attached directly to the V blocks or to the side frame. In either case there is a support 45 degree bar going up to the side boards. This observation is based upon Conch's report and on internet pictures.

My general preference is for adjustable keel rollers and adjustable 2x4 bunk boards. HOWEVER......Ownens and Sons seems to have a very large satisfied customer base. Again and again you find that people are very happy with their Owen and Sons trailers.

It would seem that would I should do is configure the trailer just as Owens would have provided it for a classic 17. THEN...if I do not look the performance it would be a simple matter to remove all the wood, and install at least three keel rollers and two 2X4 bunks. Please remember, it is winter, and I have way to much time on my hands.

As such......does anyone happen to have a classic 17 on a Owens and Sons Float On trailer? If so could you tell me what size blocks are used and how the bunk boards are configured? Other words....if you have a classic 17, the center of the V on the blocks is "XX" inches tall....the boards are attached to the V blocks or attached to side frame....? The side boards are "XX" inches tall. Anyway, you get the idea.

I did call Owen and Sons, they were unable to tell me their wood sizes, they said each trailer is done for a specific boat. They do not keep on hand measurements for certain boats.

Again, Thank you all for your replies.

posted 01-26-2014 02:59 PM ET (US)            

The wood on mine is 4X12 on edge for 8.5K lbs. Try 4X6 for your beams, the lower bunks fasten to the wood V shapes,they do not touch each other at the keel,but are about six inches apart at the center and can be (2)1X6 or 2X6 planks.

posted 01-26-2014 06:56 PM ET (US)            

The idea that the side bunks ride on top of the trailer beams makes sense. As DeVee said, you can see the old holes for the lag bolts.

One of the big concern I have is the over all height of the assembly. My current trailer is a over sized bass boat trailer with rollers. All the cross beams and rollers dip down lower then the trailer beams, (if I explained that properly) as such it does not take a lot of water to launch the boat, especially since it is a roller trailer. With the current steel trailer the bottom of the boat is about 14 inches off the ground.

With this rig, I would think you really have to get the trailer deep into the water to float it off. With the float off trailer the keel of the whaler is going to end up somewhere around 24 inches off the ground.

SO....now what, I think I will bolt a couple 4X4s on top of the trailer beams using the existing lag bolt holes. Trim the top of the V blocks down a inch or so, and then just go see what happens. I figure I can not do any real damage just pulling the boat out of the water. After I pull her out at the ramp, if I feel the system is way off, then just put the classic 17 back on the steel trailer.

And of course I still have the option of adding another cross beam and just install rollers.

Either way I go, should keep me busy for a couple days at least.

Let you know how it looks, and will see if I can post a couple pictures in the photo bucket.

Thanks

posted 01-26-2014 10:21 PM ET (US)            

My 15's keels are supported. However, most weight is on the outer sponsons, resting on 45* carpeted bunks, pitched inward, to catch the arriving/departing hull. Keel rubs StarBoard type material while centering, until bow eye is secured to trailer... Anyone feel that this is wrong?

Just askin. zot.

I find myself more concerned with outboard position, trimmed up, and manually locked, steering wheel tied with ropes/bungee cords, to keep outboard from swinging back and forth. I have broken two Yamaha steering tubes, while mounted to a Bob's manual jack plate while minimal trailering back to dealer for routine service. 36 miles and over one set of rail road tracks. Yamaha ultimately decided not to replace (third tube), under warranty, should it happen again, which it has not.