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Author Topic:   Temporary transom screw hole cover (PICS)

picflight posted 02-02-2014 06:04 PM ET (US)
1998 Outrage 17
I took the bracket off to my trolling motor mount for reconditioning (another topic).
Since I do not have a trolling motor, I am thinking of plugging the holes with a temporary plug. I am thinking some sort of rubber plug with Life Caulk sealant around it that does not penetrate the hole but rather seals the perimeter of the hole. This method of application would make it easier to remove and clean up for the final bracket application.
I also have at hand the regular silicone: GE Silicone II 9.8-oz. Clear Kitchen and Bath Caulk.
I am looking for opinions and options that I might have missed for this purpose and application.
I might not get to installing a trolling motor for another year.
Would appreciate source of rubber or other plugs and sealant options.
http://flic.kr/p/jGYqdE
Phil T posted 02-03-2014 03:21 PM ET (US)
You could reinstall the bolts and nuts with a dab of polysulfide caulk under the head. Not silicone.
You could also just fill the hole to a depth of 1/4 inch with caulk.
Don't overthink it.
picflight posted 02-03-2014 04:13 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the feedback Phil.
BOATLIFE Life-Calk® Sealant it shall be on the outside.
On the inside, can I just duck tape over it?
I am trying to avoid excessive clean up when I get around to installing the bracket.
I am thinking on the inside, it is in a compartment and the only time it will come in contact with water is when I hose it down.
---
BOATLIFE Life-Calk® Sealant (One-part, thiokol-based polysulfide sealant cures to a positive waterproof seal. Resists oil, brine, gas, water and most chemicals. Bonds to wood, fiberglass, metal and glass. No priming required except on oily woods such as teak.)
Binkster posted 02-04-2014 01:38 PM ET (US)
(On the inside, can I just duck tape over it?)
Duck Tape works, saw a guy this morning driving an old convertible with duct tape covering several rips in the top.

rips
Tom W Clark posted 02-04-2014 01:50 PM ET (US)
Don't overthink it. Just fill the holes with something waterproof. Just about any caulk would be fine, even the dreaded 3M 5200.
I'd use something with less adhesion like 3M 4200 or 3M 101, but household silicone caulk will work too.
You can also fill it with expanding polyurethane foam which is very easy to ream out later, but the holes will appear brown. With a caulk you can choose white.
Be aware that some caulks shrink back more than others.
Whatever you use, mask the holes off first before applying your sealant.
I sometimes use clear shipping tape as a "mold" to get a flat surface on fillers that are very viscous. Apply the sealant to the whole and lay a piece of clear tape over it so the surface of it is flat and flush.
There are specialty caulks, polyurathanes especially, that are designed for very broad gaps and can be tooled more easily with a putty knife but I don't think running one these down is worth it.

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Author	Topic: Temporary transom screw hole cover (PICS)
picflight	posted 02-02-2014 06:04 PM ET (US) 1998 Outrage 17 I took the bracket off to my trolling motor mount for reconditioning (another topic). Since I do not have a trolling motor, I am thinking of plugging the holes with a temporary plug. I am thinking some sort of rubber plug with Life Caulk sealant around it that does not penetrate the hole but rather seals the perimeter of the hole. This method of application would make it easier to remove and clean up for the final bracket application. I also have at hand the regular silicone: GE Silicone II 9.8-oz. Clear Kitchen and Bath Caulk. I am looking for opinions and options that I might have missed for this purpose and application. I might not get to installing a trolling motor for another year. Would appreciate source of rubber or other plugs and sealant options. http://flic.kr/p/jGYqdE
Phil T	posted 02-03-2014 03:21 PM ET (US) You could reinstall the bolts and nuts with a dab of polysulfide caulk under the head. Not silicone. You could also just fill the hole to a depth of 1/4 inch with caulk. Don't overthink it.
picflight	posted 02-03-2014 04:13 PM ET (US) Thanks for the feedback Phil. BOATLIFE Life-Calk® Sealant it shall be on the outside. On the inside, can I just duck tape over it? I am trying to avoid excessive clean up when I get around to installing the bracket. I am thinking on the inside, it is in a compartment and the only time it will come in contact with water is when I hose it down. --- BOATLIFE Life-Calk® Sealant (One-part, thiokol-based polysulfide sealant cures to a positive waterproof seal. Resists oil, brine, gas, water and most chemicals. Bonds to wood, fiberglass, metal and glass. No priming required except on oily woods such as teak.)
Binkster	posted 02-04-2014 01:38 PM ET (US) (On the inside, can I just duck tape over it?) Duck Tape works, saw a guy this morning driving an old convertible with duct tape covering several rips in the top. rips
Tom W Clark	posted 02-04-2014 01:50 PM ET (US) Don't overthink it. Just fill the holes with something waterproof. Just about any caulk would be fine, even the dreaded 3M 5200. I'd use something with less adhesion like 3M 4200 or 3M 101, but household silicone caulk will work too. You can also fill it with expanding polyurethane foam which is very easy to ream out later, but the holes will appear brown. With a caulk you can choose white. Be aware that some caulks shrink back more than others. Whatever you use, mask the holes off first before applying your sealant. I sometimes use clear shipping tape as a "mold" to get a flat surface on fillers that are very viscous. Apply the sealant to the whole and lay a piece of clear tape over it so the surface of it is flat and flush. There are specialty caulks, polyurathanes especially, that are designed for very broad gaps and can be tooled more easily with a putty knife but I don't think running one these down is worth it.