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Author Topic:   1998 Mecury 150 EFi will not start

picflight posted 02-18-2014 11:45 AM ET (US)
Hello. A 1998 Mercury EFI Offshore V6 outboared engine has been in storage for couple of years. In the past month in preparation to start the motor I have:
--drained fuel tank, added 10 gallons new fuel (high octane) and recycled fuel through water separator and filters back into the tank;
--added new filters, new separator bracket and new Mercury primer bulb and hose. On-board fuel-water separator is also new, Mercury OEM;
--serviced with new thermostats, poppet valve, and spark plugs.
The lower unit is currently out. I connected hose to flush port and cranked, but the outboard engine did not start after several tries. I did not hear fuel pump on engine. I disconnect both [electical] leads of fuel pump and wired them to the battery, but the fuel pump does not come on. Does a fuel pump go bad by just sitting?
Is there anything else that I should be testing?
The hoses on the fuel vapor separator are small and in tight spaces. Is there a trick to removing them without having to cut them off?
What sort of crimp tool should I use to secure the hoses if I decide to tackle fuel pump replacement myself?
Picture of Fuel Vapor Separator
http://flic.kr/p/kcMZto
jimh posted 02-18-2014 05:04 PM ET (US)
Some of the hoses shown in your digital image look like they are pre-bent hoses. I would not cut them off, unless you want to buy OEM replacement hoses. They also look like they are secured with Oetiker clamps. If you plan to use Oetiker clamps to re-install them, you should get the Oetiker crimp tool, or something similar.
See page 20 of this PDF document from Oetiker about their manual clamp tools:
http://www.oetiker.com/en/~/media/Downloads/Technische%20Datenblaetter/ Montagewerkzeuge/Montagewerkzeuge/ 03-2013-TDSTools%20EarLow%20Profile%20ClampsENUSL.pdf
Or, look for something similar at a hardware store.
Re diagnosis of no-start, in addition to your concern about the fuel system, you should check for spark with an in-line spark gap tester. Also make sure the safety lanyard is in place in the operating position. This often suppresses spark.
OMCrobert posted 02-18-2014 05:10 PM ET (US)
I would wager your high pressure pump is locked up and the [vapor separator tank or VST] also has [varnish] in it. Pull the VST apart and clean it. I would also recommend cleaning the injectors as well. Most times you can not save the high pressure pump.
picflight posted 02-19-2014 01:27 AM ET (US)
Is there a trick or tools to safely loosen and remove the hoses? There is little space to grab and pull the hoses off.
OMCrobert posted 02-19-2014 09:47 AM ET (US)
Once the clamps are removed, you can pinch the hose below the nipple and using a twisting motion break them free. I always manage to smash my knuckles when pulling hoses free.
picflight posted 02-19-2014 01:53 PM ET (US)
Powering the fuel pump directly from the battery does NOT turn the fuel pump on. I am thinking this test pretty much tells the fuel pump is NOT operational. Just need assurance from others who have dealt with such a problem.
Since there was fuel in the [vapor separator] tank and none in the fuel rail for the pressure check valve to squirt out some, I think the fuel pump is at fault.
I am thinking I can check the spark later after I am done with the fuel pump issue. I am concerned about cranking the engine when no fuel/oil is being pushed into the cylinders. I have already cranked it about 20 times.
Perhaps I can try and remove the three mounting bolts and them attempt to remove the ~10 screws that hold the tank together. This is eliminate the need to undo the hoses, which seems to be a monumental task as I look at it.
jimh posted 02-19-2014 06:16 PM ET (US)
I'd defer to sosmerc for expert opinion. He is usually very good with Mercury problems. That said, if there is an electric motor in the pump and it won't run when you connect it directly to a battery, there is not much else that could cause that other than a bad motor.
phatwhaler posted 02-20-2014 06:38 PM ET (US)
You're pump is bad. The vaport separator tank or VST can be removed without messing with all those hoses. Put your email address in your profile and I'll send you the pertinent pages of the FSM.
sosmerc posted 02-20-2014 06:51 PM ET (US)
Please post your engine serial number so that I can confirm exactly what year and model you have.
In general, the high pressure electric fuel pump has two terminals. One of the terminals is connected to (+) and the other terminal is a lead that is connected to the engine computer and controls ground. If you disconnect the ground control lead, and then momentarily connect one end of a test wire to the terminal and then other to a good clean engine ground...the pump should run. If not, you might try tapping on the pump gently. You might also try MOMENTARILY hooking your leads up backwards which sometimes will "jog" a stuck pump armature. DO NOT have the "control lead" that goes to the computer hooked up whenever doing this reverse voltage "jog". Actually, I prefer to remove the pump from the VST and soak the entire pump in my ultrasonic cleaning tank before doing the "jog" test. Often I am successful and the pump will resume normal operation as long as the VST is clean and you are running clean fuel. Keep in mind that the terminals on the pump should be labeled...and I believe the terminal studs are even a different size to keep you from hooking them up improperly.
sosmerc posted 02-20-2014 06:55 PM ET (US)
Should also have said to test the 12-Volt wire with a test light or test horn to make sure it is hot. If it is not, then maybe you have a blown fuse. That terminal is 12-Volt positive at ALL times, not just when the key is turned on. Again, the reason the pump doesn't run is because the computer does not provide a ground path until the key is in the run position.
picflight posted 02-21-2014 03:23 AM ET (US)
0G626795
jimh posted 02-21-2014 10:10 AM ET (US)
Many thanks to sosmerc for the expert knowledge on how the power leads are arranged. I wonder if the power test performed in the diagnostic procedure tested the correct terminals. It sounds like the pump uses the chassis as the negative circuit.
picflight posted 02-21-2014 10:21 PM ET (US)
Thanks to sosmerc for the instructions.
I managed to take the vapor separator tank off; how do I get the pump off? I have removed the two nuts on the terminals.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/12687928003_3297cc4d51_z.jpg
picflight posted 02-22-2014 11:16 PM ET (US)
Trying to get the pump soaked.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5513/12710999784_fc650666b4_z.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2821/12710742033_72fb519985_z.jpg
I also got an Ultrasonic cleaner from HF for $74 and is standing by if 24 hours of soaking doesn't get it going.
picflight posted 02-23-2014 10:05 AM ET (US)
Where can I source a replacement pump and filter in case I have to replace? OEM or after market, does it matter?
tmann45 posted 02-23-2014 10:19 AM ET (US)
What is the red fluid you have the pump soaking in?
picflight posted 02-23-2014 01:13 PM ET (US)
[The red fluid is] Marvel Mystery oil.
picflight posted 02-23-2014 01:32 PM ET (US)
I removed and opened the manual fuel pump expecting it to have lots of crud to clean up.
Fuel pump
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3754/12724890003_fbecd8cda8_z.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/12725211834_e26019b605_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/12725199124_63c5037ba8_z.jpg

This nipple that connects the hose from the fuel pump to the engine block was loose and some dried sealant break off.
Is this normal?
Can I remove and apply Permatex 80017 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant?
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3666/12725232674_39a3cb357a_z.jpg
picflight posted 02-25-2014 12:30 PM ET (US)
$336 with shipping for an aftermarket compared to $550 for an OEM pump.
Debating on which option to choose.
picflight posted 02-28-2014 11:12 AM ET (US)
I chose the aftermarket version. Pump is arriving today, and I am waiting on two OEM hoses that I had to cut while removing the manual pump. As soon as the rain stops I will begin the process of reassembly.
picflight posted 03-03-2014 09:51 AM ET (US)
I decided to rebuild and clean the pulse pump as well. Was surprised to see it clean compared to what was inside the vapor separator tank or VST.
The kit I got does not have the rubber check valves, only the plastic larger ones that look similar to the small ones on top of the rubber.
The service manual talks about putting the retainer through the plastic check valves, there is no mention of rubber. Am I to omit the rubber check valve?
A bulletin I found talks about replacing the rubber only when the vacuum test for the pump fails.
Can someone who is familiar with this square pump confirm the omission of the rubber check valve.
http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/distributors/mercurymarine/outboard/ fuelrestrictiontesting.PDF
This is what the inside on mine looks like:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/12725211834_47e8fd83e4_z.jpg
OMCrobert posted 03-03-2014 11:01 AM ET (US)
I believe the plastic ones are an update to the rubber one hence why they are different and the rubber ones are left out. Double check though.
picflight posted 03-03-2014 11:46 AM ET (US)
Thats what it seems like, an update, but just by comparing the rubber and the thin plastic check valve I am trying to see how performace and vaccum will be improved.
I have to really make sure the rubber is omitted before I proceed, hence my post.
sosmerc posted 03-03-2014 07:53 PM ET (US)
All of the updated square pump service kits should now have just the clear plastic disks used as the check valve. This eliminates the frequent problem of the rubber discs puckering and getting sucked into the four open areas where the valves seat.
picflight posted 03-04-2014 01:02 AM ET (US)
Thanks to sosmerc for the confirmation. I shall now proceed with putting the pump together. I now also have the aid of the service manual, the PDF version.
By the way, what do you think is the condition of the current pump, the inside from the pictures I posted earlier?
sosmerc posted 03-04-2014 11:14 AM ET (US)
Looks normal to me. You may wish to check both sides of the plastic body for flatness. I sometimes surface them with fine sandpaper on a piece of glass.
I was out of town all last week and was not able to respond to your thread, sorry. But now you have all the manuals and that should be a big help--especially if you have the factory manual.
picflight posted 03-04-2014 03:43 PM ET (US)
sosmerc: Yes, I have the factory service manual in addition to the Seloc that I already had. I like the factory service manual a lot as it is detailed.
The sides are nice and flat and the original gaskets seem to be in very good condition. You have to realize that this is the first time I have been closer than five feet to an outboard engine. It is a new experience for me, and loving it, I have worked on my cars all my life. :-)
Thanks for all your input.
picflight posted 03-05-2014 11:09 AM ET (US)
I read somewhere on this forum someone said that they have more experience then sense, I seemed to have been in that category last night when I was assembling the pulse pump. Without reading the instructions again, I drove both the retainer pins from the opposite end into the plastic retainer. The valves do sit flat and the pins are secure, so I am hoping that this would work and I will not have to redo it again. :-(
sosmerc posted 03-05-2014 11:56 AM ET (US)
So I can verify the retainers have been properly installed, can you post a picture? These check valves and their retainers are kind of a cheezy appearing setup, but it works.
picflight posted 03-05-2014 12:19 PM ET (US)
I had the flash on and didn't realize that the pictures might come out over exposed.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/12952225553_88756f2dda_o.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/12952232653_90471445d6_o.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/12952101145_b24c7ea340_c.jpg
picflight posted 03-05-2014 12:41 PM ET (US)
By the way, is there anything special about the fuel hose that goes to the IN & PULSE port? Would auto store fuel hoses work? They don't seem to have any special bends.
I had to cut the old hoses to get them off, it was easier to remove the pump this way due to lack of space in getting a good grip on them. I figured its good to have new hoses anyway. I have the hoses on order from Performance Mercury, but they shipped it ground and I can't wait until Friday to put it together and hear the roar of the engine.
sosmerc posted 03-06-2014 01:20 AM ET (US)
Good pics; it all looks fine. Fuel lines need to be alcohol resistant. I try and use oem hoses, but frankly even some of them need frequent replacement due to today's fuel. I really like the hose that Yamaha uses under their cowls, but they don't sell it in bulk which is really a pain. I'm sure you can get decent line from auto parts, but because I am in the marine service business I prefer to use oem stuff to protect myself from liability issues. On my own stuff I would not hesitate to experiment with some of the stuff that you can find at auto parts and hardware stores. As long as it specifically says alcohol or ethanol resistant I would think it would be fine.
picflight posted 03-06-2014 03:02 AM ET (US)
Thanks sosmerc for the confirmation.
picflight posted 03-08-2014 08:20 PM ET (US)
What is the trick to getting the new O-ring to sit and stay in the grove while putting the vapor separator tank together?
picflight posted 03-08-2014 09:29 PM ET (US)
It almost looks like it is not the right size but I verified the part number and it is the correct part.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3599/13023097043_03031e3b28_c.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/13022930935_291dffdcf6_c.jpg
picflight posted 03-09-2014 03:34 PM ET (US)
[The author began a new thread for the question he asked in this article--jimh]
picflight posted 03-10-2014 01:35 AM ET (US)
I appreciate all your suggestions and help in try to solve the problem with my engine. I am happy to report that today I was able to start the engine.

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Author	Topic: 1998 Mecury 150 EFi will not start
picflight	posted 02-18-2014 11:45 AM ET (US) Hello. A 1998 Mercury EFI Offshore V6 outboared engine has been in storage for couple of years. In the past month in preparation to start the motor I have: --drained fuel tank, added 10 gallons new fuel (high octane) and recycled fuel through water separator and filters back into the tank; --added new filters, new separator bracket and new Mercury primer bulb and hose. On-board fuel-water separator is also new, Mercury OEM; --serviced with new thermostats, poppet valve, and spark plugs. The lower unit is currently out. I connected hose to flush port and cranked, but the outboard engine did not start after several tries. I did not hear fuel pump on engine. I disconnect both [electical] leads of fuel pump and wired them to the battery, but the fuel pump does not come on. Does a fuel pump go bad by just sitting? Is there anything else that I should be testing? The hoses on the fuel vapor separator are small and in tight spaces. Is there a trick to removing them without having to cut them off? What sort of crimp tool should I use to secure the hoses if I decide to tackle fuel pump replacement myself? Picture of Fuel Vapor Separator http://flic.kr/p/kcMZto
jimh	posted 02-18-2014 05:04 PM ET (US) Some of the hoses shown in your digital image look like they are pre-bent hoses. I would not cut them off, unless you want to buy OEM replacement hoses. They also look like they are secured with Oetiker clamps. If you plan to use Oetiker clamps to re-install them, you should get the Oetiker crimp tool, or something similar. See page 20 of this PDF document from Oetiker about their manual clamp tools: http://www.oetiker.com/en/~/media/Downloads/Technische%20Datenblaetter/ Montagewerkzeuge/Montagewerkzeuge/ 03-2013-TDSTools%20EarLow%20Profile%20ClampsENUSL.pdf Or, look for something similar at a hardware store. Re diagnosis of no-start, in addition to your concern about the fuel system, you should check for spark with an in-line spark gap tester. Also make sure the safety lanyard is in place in the operating position. This often suppresses spark.
OMCrobert	posted 02-18-2014 05:10 PM ET (US) I would wager your high pressure pump is locked up and the [vapor separator tank or VST] also has [varnish] in it. Pull the VST apart and clean it. I would also recommend cleaning the injectors as well. Most times you can not save the high pressure pump.
picflight	posted 02-19-2014 01:27 AM ET (US) Is there a trick or tools to safely loosen and remove the hoses? There is little space to grab and pull the hoses off.
OMCrobert	posted 02-19-2014 09:47 AM ET (US) Once the clamps are removed, you can pinch the hose below the nipple and using a twisting motion break them free. I always manage to smash my knuckles when pulling hoses free.
picflight	posted 02-19-2014 01:53 PM ET (US) Powering the fuel pump directly from the battery does NOT turn the fuel pump on. I am thinking this test pretty much tells the fuel pump is NOT operational. Just need assurance from others who have dealt with such a problem. Since there was fuel in the [vapor separator] tank and none in the fuel rail for the pressure check valve to squirt out some, I think the fuel pump is at fault. I am thinking I can check the spark later after I am done with the fuel pump issue. I am concerned about cranking the engine when no fuel/oil is being pushed into the cylinders. I have already cranked it about 20 times. Perhaps I can try and remove the three mounting bolts and them attempt to remove the ~10 screws that hold the tank together. This is eliminate the need to undo the hoses, which seems to be a monumental task as I look at it.
jimh	posted 02-19-2014 06:16 PM ET (US) I'd defer to sosmerc for expert opinion. He is usually very good with Mercury problems. That said, if there is an electric motor in the pump and it won't run when you connect it directly to a battery, there is not much else that could cause that other than a bad motor.
phatwhaler	posted 02-20-2014 06:38 PM ET (US) You're pump is bad. The vaport separator tank or VST can be removed without messing with all those hoses. Put your email address in your profile and I'll send you the pertinent pages of the FSM.
sosmerc	posted 02-20-2014 06:51 PM ET (US) Please post your engine serial number so that I can confirm exactly what year and model you have. In general, the high pressure electric fuel pump has two terminals. One of the terminals is connected to (+) and the other terminal is a lead that is connected to the engine computer and controls ground. If you disconnect the ground control lead, and then momentarily connect one end of a test wire to the terminal and then other to a good clean engine ground...the pump should run. If not, you might try tapping on the pump gently. You might also try MOMENTARILY hooking your leads up backwards which sometimes will "jog" a stuck pump armature. DO NOT have the "control lead" that goes to the computer hooked up whenever doing this reverse voltage "jog". Actually, I prefer to remove the pump from the VST and soak the entire pump in my ultrasonic cleaning tank before doing the "jog" test. Often I am successful and the pump will resume normal operation as long as the VST is clean and you are running clean fuel. Keep in mind that the terminals on the pump should be labeled...and I believe the terminal studs are even a different size to keep you from hooking them up improperly.
sosmerc	posted 02-20-2014 06:55 PM ET (US) Should also have said to test the 12-Volt wire with a test light or test horn to make sure it is hot. If it is not, then maybe you have a blown fuse. That terminal is 12-Volt positive at ALL times, not just when the key is turned on. Again, the reason the pump doesn't run is because the computer does not provide a ground path until the key is in the run position.
picflight	posted 02-21-2014 03:23 AM ET (US) 0G626795
jimh	posted 02-21-2014 10:10 AM ET (US) Many thanks to sosmerc for the expert knowledge on how the power leads are arranged. I wonder if the power test performed in the diagnostic procedure tested the correct terminals. It sounds like the pump uses the chassis as the negative circuit.
picflight	posted 02-21-2014 10:21 PM ET (US) Thanks to sosmerc for the instructions. I managed to take the vapor separator tank off; how do I get the pump off? I have removed the two nuts on the terminals. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/12687928003_3297cc4d51_z.jpg
picflight	posted 02-22-2014 11:16 PM ET (US) Trying to get the pump soaked. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5513/12710999784_fc650666b4_z.jpg http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2821/12710742033_72fb519985_z.jpg I also got an Ultrasonic cleaner from HF for $74 and is standing by if 24 hours of soaking doesn't get it going.
picflight	posted 02-23-2014 10:05 AM ET (US) Where can I source a replacement pump and filter in case I have to replace? OEM or after market, does it matter?
tmann45	posted 02-23-2014 10:19 AM ET (US) What is the red fluid you have the pump soaking in?
picflight	posted 02-23-2014 01:13 PM ET (US) [The red fluid is] Marvel Mystery oil.
picflight	posted 02-23-2014 01:32 PM ET (US) I removed and opened the manual fuel pump expecting it to have lots of crud to clean up. Fuel pump http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3754/12724890003_fbecd8cda8_z.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/12725211834_e26019b605_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7436/12725199124_63c5037ba8_z.jpg This nipple that connects the hose from the fuel pump to the engine block was loose and some dried sealant break off. Is this normal? Can I remove and apply Permatex 80017 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant? http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3666/12725232674_39a3cb357a_z.jpg
picflight	posted 02-25-2014 12:30 PM ET (US) $336 with shipping for an aftermarket compared to $550 for an OEM pump. Debating on which option to choose.
picflight	posted 02-28-2014 11:12 AM ET (US) I chose the aftermarket version. Pump is arriving today, and I am waiting on two OEM hoses that I had to cut while removing the manual pump. As soon as the rain stops I will begin the process of reassembly.
picflight	posted 03-03-2014 09:51 AM ET (US) I decided to rebuild and clean the pulse pump as well. Was surprised to see it clean compared to what was inside the vapor separator tank or VST. The kit I got does not have the rubber check valves, only the plastic larger ones that look similar to the small ones on top of the rubber. The service manual talks about putting the retainer through the plastic check valves, there is no mention of rubber. Am I to omit the rubber check valve? A bulletin I found talks about replacing the rubber only when the vacuum test for the pump fails. Can someone who is familiar with this square pump confirm the omission of the rubber check valve. http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/distributors/mercurymarine/outboard/ fuelrestrictiontesting.PDF This is what the inside on mine looks like: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/12725211834_47e8fd83e4_z.jpg
OMCrobert	posted 03-03-2014 11:01 AM ET (US) I believe the plastic ones are an update to the rubber one hence why they are different and the rubber ones are left out. Double check though.
picflight	posted 03-03-2014 11:46 AM ET (US) Thats what it seems like, an update, but just by comparing the rubber and the thin plastic check valve I am trying to see how performace and vaccum will be improved. I have to really make sure the rubber is omitted before I proceed, hence my post.
sosmerc	posted 03-03-2014 07:53 PM ET (US) All of the updated square pump service kits should now have just the clear plastic disks used as the check valve. This eliminates the frequent problem of the rubber discs puckering and getting sucked into the four open areas where the valves seat.
picflight	posted 03-04-2014 01:02 AM ET (US) Thanks to sosmerc for the confirmation. I shall now proceed with putting the pump together. I now also have the aid of the service manual, the PDF version. By the way, what do you think is the condition of the current pump, the inside from the pictures I posted earlier?
sosmerc	posted 03-04-2014 11:14 AM ET (US) Looks normal to me. You may wish to check both sides of the plastic body for flatness. I sometimes surface them with fine sandpaper on a piece of glass. I was out of town all last week and was not able to respond to your thread, sorry. But now you have all the manuals and that should be a big help--especially if you have the factory manual.
picflight	posted 03-04-2014 03:43 PM ET (US) sosmerc: Yes, I have the factory service manual in addition to the Seloc that I already had. I like the factory service manual a lot as it is detailed. The sides are nice and flat and the original gaskets seem to be in very good condition. You have to realize that this is the first time I have been closer than five feet to an outboard engine. It is a new experience for me, and loving it, I have worked on my cars all my life. :-) Thanks for all your input.
picflight	posted 03-05-2014 11:09 AM ET (US) I read somewhere on this forum someone said that they have more experience then sense, I seemed to have been in that category last night when I was assembling the pulse pump. Without reading the instructions again, I drove both the retainer pins from the opposite end into the plastic retainer. The valves do sit flat and the pins are secure, so I am hoping that this would work and I will not have to redo it again. :-(
sosmerc	posted 03-05-2014 11:56 AM ET (US) So I can verify the retainers have been properly installed, can you post a picture? These check valves and their retainers are kind of a cheezy appearing setup, but it works.
picflight	posted 03-05-2014 12:19 PM ET (US) I had the flash on and didn't realize that the pictures might come out over exposed. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/12952225553_88756f2dda_o.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/12952232653_90471445d6_o.jpg http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/12952101145_b24c7ea340_c.jpg
picflight	posted 03-05-2014 12:41 PM ET (US) By the way, is there anything special about the fuel hose that goes to the IN & PULSE port? Would auto store fuel hoses work? They don't seem to have any special bends. I had to cut the old hoses to get them off, it was easier to remove the pump this way due to lack of space in getting a good grip on them. I figured its good to have new hoses anyway. I have the hoses on order from Performance Mercury, but they shipped it ground and I can't wait until Friday to put it together and hear the roar of the engine.
sosmerc	posted 03-06-2014 01:20 AM ET (US) Good pics; it all looks fine. Fuel lines need to be alcohol resistant. I try and use oem hoses, but frankly even some of them need frequent replacement due to today's fuel. I really like the hose that Yamaha uses under their cowls, but they don't sell it in bulk which is really a pain. I'm sure you can get decent line from auto parts, but because I am in the marine service business I prefer to use oem stuff to protect myself from liability issues. On my own stuff I would not hesitate to experiment with some of the stuff that you can find at auto parts and hardware stores. As long as it specifically says alcohol or ethanol resistant I would think it would be fine.
picflight	posted 03-06-2014 03:02 AM ET (US) Thanks sosmerc for the confirmation.
picflight	posted 03-08-2014 08:20 PM ET (US) What is the trick to getting the new O-ring to sit and stay in the grove while putting the vapor separator tank together?
picflight	posted 03-08-2014 09:29 PM ET (US) It almost looks like it is not the right size but I verified the part number and it is the correct part. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3599/13023097043_03031e3b28_c.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/13022930935_291dffdcf6_c.jpg
picflight	posted 03-09-2014 03:34 PM ET (US) [The author began a new thread for the question he asked in this article--jimh]
picflight	posted 03-10-2014 01:35 AM ET (US) I appreciate all your suggestions and help in try to solve the problem with my engine. I am happy to report that today I was able to start the engine.