Oarlock Sockets: Plastic or Rubber Sleeves - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Oarlock Sockets: Plastic or Rubber Sleeves

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Oarlock Sockets: Plastic or Rubber Sleeves

doctor d posted 02-27-2014 09:31 PM ET (US)
Due to cheap oarlocks, the brass built in oarlock receptacles rusted. I removed them to clean them up. The plastic or rubber sleeves need replacing. Can I buy these? Thanks!
Tom W Clark posted 02-27-2014 10:05 PM ET (US)
I think you will just need to improvise. I'm pretty sure that is what Dick Fisher did.
I have one of those oarlock and plastic caps around here somewhere. I recall the cap was a simple piece of hardware intended for some other purpose. Whaler just adapted it to plug the end of the off-the-shelf cast bronze oar locks they used at the time.
The plug prevented the foam from escaping through the oarlock during the foaming process and (to some short term extent) kept water out of the foam core.
doctor d posted 02-27-2014 10:40 PM ET (US)
Thanks Tom. [I]t's more of a cup than a cap. [I]t's a sleeve that goes in the hole first, then the oarlock goes into the sleeve. [T]he removable sleeve is a water tight cup, I assumed to prevent water from entering the foam. [I]t's brittle and cracked at the bottom. It would make more sense to use a cap on top I suppose. I could easily come up with something to achieve that, but normally I like to keep the oars in the locks. It's the best place to store them.
Tom W Clark posted 02-27-2014 10:49 PM ET (US)
Yes, it is just as you describe, but if you had the oar lock loose in your hand and inverted it, the plastic part would look like a cap.
As I said, go find something that works.
How are you going to reattach the oar lock to the hull? The originals were held in place by virtue of the fact the entire hull was molded around them; the oars locks were attached to the mold first, then the hull skin was laid up around it, gel coat and all. The Phillips head screws were just fillers for the holes in the off-the-shelf oar locks; they did nothing to hold the oarlock sockets to the hull itself.
doctor d posted 02-28-2014 01:01 PM ET (US)
Really? That sucks. they popped right out as if the screws were what was holding them down. I'll figure something out. thanks for the help.
Tom W Clark posted 02-28-2014 01:19 PM ET (US)
I'd just use epoxy to fully glue them back in and include the original screws while you're at it. They'll stay in place.
Try to maintain the original orientation of each; sometimes cast parts are not all exactly the same size and shape because they are ground by hand after being cast.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Oarlock Sockets: Plastic or Rubber Sleeves
doctor d	posted 02-27-2014 09:31 PM ET (US) Due to cheap oarlocks, the brass built in oarlock receptacles rusted. I removed them to clean them up. The plastic or rubber sleeves need replacing. Can I buy these? Thanks!
Tom W Clark	posted 02-27-2014 10:05 PM ET (US) I think you will just need to improvise. I'm pretty sure that is what Dick Fisher did. I have one of those oarlock and plastic caps around here somewhere. I recall the cap was a simple piece of hardware intended for some other purpose. Whaler just adapted it to plug the end of the off-the-shelf cast bronze oar locks they used at the time. The plug prevented the foam from escaping through the oarlock during the foaming process and (to some short term extent) kept water out of the foam core.
doctor d	posted 02-27-2014 10:40 PM ET (US) Thanks Tom. [I]t's more of a cup than a cap. [I]t's a sleeve that goes in the hole first, then the oarlock goes into the sleeve. [T]he removable sleeve is a water tight cup, I assumed to prevent water from entering the foam. [I]t's brittle and cracked at the bottom. It would make more sense to use a cap on top I suppose. I could easily come up with something to achieve that, but normally I like to keep the oars in the locks. It's the best place to store them.
Tom W Clark	posted 02-27-2014 10:49 PM ET (US) Yes, it is just as you describe, but if you had the oar lock loose in your hand and inverted it, the plastic part would look like a cap. As I said, go find something that works. How are you going to reattach the oar lock to the hull? The originals were held in place by virtue of the fact the entire hull was molded around them; the oars locks were attached to the mold first, then the hull skin was laid up around it, gel coat and all. The Phillips head screws were just fillers for the holes in the off-the-shelf oar locks; they did nothing to hold the oarlock sockets to the hull itself.
doctor d	posted 02-28-2014 01:01 PM ET (US) Really? That sucks. they popped right out as if the screws were what was holding them down. I'll figure something out. thanks for the help.
Tom W Clark	posted 02-28-2014 01:19 PM ET (US) I'd just use epoxy to fully glue them back in and include the original screws while you're at it. They'll stay in place. Try to maintain the original orientation of each; sometimes cast parts are not all exactly the same size and shape because they are ground by hand after being cast.