Submerged Motor - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Submerged Motor

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Submerged Motor

Landlocked posted 03-25-2014 09:22 AM ET (US)
Last Tuesday while attempting to stretch a transect rope across 400 feet of river in higher than normal flows we snagged the rope on some mid channel debris. I continued stretching rope until I could make handoff to crew on the opposite bank and then attempted to back the stern off the gravel bar and make a turn to go upstream and back around and come up from below to pick the rope up and pull it off the log jam.
Unfortunately, I was operating a 1448 Lowe Jon boat with a 2011 Mercury 25hp 4 stroke jet motor. Jet motors have significantly less reverse thrust than a prop motor. It became immediately apparent that I did not have enough to back upstream to make the turn I had to make to get the bow upstream and avoid a rocky outcrop. The boat began drifting downstream even though I was at full throttle in reverse. At the last minute, I killed the motor and attempted to tilt it up (manually) to drift over the line but I was too slow. Skeg hooked rope. Knife was thoroughly unavailable nestled deep inside my waders. Well intentioned partner ran to back of boat to assist me. Stern went below water and boat turtled in 5 feet of very cold and swift water. The chest waders we were wearing were not an asset. The life jacket was.
The motor was off before it submerged but there was still significant water in oil and gas. In addition, we lost the cowling when the boat drifted over a rocky area and tore it off. As a result, the cable that operates the lock out preventing the motor from starting in gear was ripped off.
I disabled the lock out mechanism, changed the oil and filter, flushed clean gas through the gas filter, and we were back on the water the next day. boat runs surprisingly well but there is water in most of the electrical connectors and it does stall occasionally. I was able to take them apart and blow them out well enough to get through the job.
Now, after all that.... My question. Management is less than excited about dropping it off at a shop and wants me to attempt to order parts and fix it myself. Cowling alone is going to be 700 bucks! My plan is to blow all the electrical connectors out with an air hose and leave them disconnected to dry for a while. Can anyone tell me of other obvious items I should attempt to address?
Ll.
Tom W Clark posted 03-25-2014 09:50 AM ET (US)
Sorry to hear about the accident but glad nobody was hurt. Management should be too.
You are doing all the right things. You will need to keep changing the oil until there is no evidence of water in it.
Anything you can do promote drying, like storing the motor is a warm dry interior space when not being used, will help.
eBay is your friend when trying to find a used outboard cowl for less than the list price of a new one.
The more you run it, and the more you change the oil, the better. A dealer won't do much more than that.
Be glad it was fresh water not salt.
Tom W Clark posted 03-25-2014 09:53 AM ET (US)
If you have to buy a NEW cowl, boats.net has good pricing:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/ 25%20Jet%20EFI%20%283%20CYL.%29%284-STROKE%29/0R165086%20%26%20Up/ Top%20Cowl/parts.html
BQUICK posted 03-25-2014 10:16 AM ET (US)
Dry it best you can and hit it with lots of WD-40.
Landlocked posted 03-25-2014 10:45 AM ET (US)
Thanks guys - yes it was a close call. Closest I've had in over 20 years of doing this type thing.
Thanks for the Ebay idea - will check there next. As to the WD-40. I understand it was created as a water displacer. Would there be any problem spraying that inside the electrical connectors?
contender posted 03-25-2014 10:51 AM ET (US)
The big question: was it salt or fresh water? If it was fresh you can get by doing what you have done, salt water you will start seeing problems in your electrical, either replace all the electrical or trade the engine in. You are doing the correct things, spray the engine with the wd40 and running it right away to dry it out..Good luck
Tom W Clark posted 03-25-2014 10:51 AM ET (US)
I would not use WD-40
Landlocked posted 03-25-2014 10:57 AM ET (US)
Thanks - Won't use the WD-40 on the connectors. Yes - luckily it was an East Tennessee river... No salt.
Ll.
kwik_wurk posted 03-25-2014 11:23 AM ET (US)
If you have already run the motor a bit, most moisture will have baked off by now. However connectors that have boots, covers etc will be the ones to chase down. -- As Tom mentioned, bring the motor indoors when not used for a long period of time. -- Change the oil, maybe re-do the carbs as well. You mention stalling, but how bogging down, or cut-out, or something else.
jimh posted 03-25-2014 01:00 PM ET (US)
Use WD40 on electrical connectors. It will displace the water. I wouldn't use it on extremely small, multi-pin connectors, but for the sort of electrical connectors on an outboard it should be a good fluid to remove water without causing damage. Most electrical connectors are made with tinned copper contacts. I do not think WD40 will harm them. WD40 also seems safe with most of the plastics used in electrical connectors.
Modern outboard often use connectors that are designed to protect against water, so you should check them first for signs of water intrusion. If no water ever got to the connectors, then they probably do not need to be sprayed with much of anything.
From the WD40 website:
--
What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product do?

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because it displaces moisture, WD-40 Multi-Use Product quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
--
http://wd40.com/faqs/#a97
jimh posted 03-25-2014 01:03 PM ET (US)
A few years ago a $250 Fluke digital multimeter that I own took a 24-hour bath in fresh water. I pulled it out of the water. I gave the entire circuit board a spray mist with WD40. I used a hair dryer on LOW to dry it off. It resumed working, and still works like new.
Tom W Clark posted 03-25-2014 02:32 PM ET (US)
I think using WD-40 judiciously on electrical connectors would be fine but remember, WD-40 is a very effective solvent.
Spraying down the powerhead with WD-40 will put it on grease points where you want the grease to stay.
I was using WD-40 just yesterday to degrease some parts and as well as to remove some paint overspray.
Landlocked posted 03-25-2014 02:36 PM ET (US)
Most of the connectors do in fact have rubber boots or "O" rings incorporated into them but when taken apart, they still have water in them. We ran the boat probably 16 total hours after the accident.
When it stalls, it is almost like it is starving for fuel. Kind of sputters, looses power, and finally dies. Pumping bulb does not help. Vacuum valve on tank is open. Fuel filter is full of fuel. The only thing I found that allowed me to restart was to take apart the red (I assume ignition wire) on the side of engine, pour out whatever water was in it and then blow it out. Motor will then start right up and run fine for a while.
Seems like after it runs for extended time, water somehow re-accumulates in the connector. Based on this - I'm assuming problem is electrical.
Landlocked posted 03-25-2014 02:37 PM ET (US)
Thanks Tom - understood. I've used it to clean parts as well. Also makes a pretty good starter fluid to get motors going when sprayed directly in spark plug holes!
Ll.
Don SSDD posted 03-25-2014 03:13 PM ET (US)
Place it where it will get hit by a hot air vent when not in use, or if you know someone with in floor heat, lay it on top of that. Any dry heat source is the best.
In Canada, get some Rust Check in the red can- you can spray it on anything, including circuit breakers, electrical panels, no solvent, won't hurt paint or rubber and it displaces water.
Don
jimh posted 03-26-2014 01:41 PM ET (US)
I agree with Tom's comment re WD40 being a solvent. Many people think it is a lubricant, but it is really not designed to provide lubrication. It is designed to displace water, hence the "WD" for water displacement in the product name. Follow up with some new lubricants in your engine if you need to give it a lot of WD40 to remove the water.
weekendwarrior posted 03-26-2014 03:37 PM ET (US)
Next time it stalls, check for spark before you do anything else. If you have spark then you probably have a little bubble of water in the carb bowl. If you have no spark then it's electrical.
Landlocked posted 03-27-2014 09:55 AM ET (US)
Excellent suggestion. Thanks!

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Submerged Motor
Landlocked	posted 03-25-2014 09:22 AM ET (US) Last Tuesday while attempting to stretch a transect rope across 400 feet of river in higher than normal flows we snagged the rope on some mid channel debris. I continued stretching rope until I could make handoff to crew on the opposite bank and then attempted to back the stern off the gravel bar and make a turn to go upstream and back around and come up from below to pick the rope up and pull it off the log jam. Unfortunately, I was operating a 1448 Lowe Jon boat with a 2011 Mercury 25hp 4 stroke jet motor. Jet motors have significantly less reverse thrust than a prop motor. It became immediately apparent that I did not have enough to back upstream to make the turn I had to make to get the bow upstream and avoid a rocky outcrop. The boat began drifting downstream even though I was at full throttle in reverse. At the last minute, I killed the motor and attempted to tilt it up (manually) to drift over the line but I was too slow. Skeg hooked rope. Knife was thoroughly unavailable nestled deep inside my waders. Well intentioned partner ran to back of boat to assist me. Stern went below water and boat turtled in 5 feet of very cold and swift water. The chest waders we were wearing were not an asset. The life jacket was. The motor was off before it submerged but there was still significant water in oil and gas. In addition, we lost the cowling when the boat drifted over a rocky area and tore it off. As a result, the cable that operates the lock out preventing the motor from starting in gear was ripped off. I disabled the lock out mechanism, changed the oil and filter, flushed clean gas through the gas filter, and we were back on the water the next day. boat runs surprisingly well but there is water in most of the electrical connectors and it does stall occasionally. I was able to take them apart and blow them out well enough to get through the job. Now, after all that.... My question. Management is less than excited about dropping it off at a shop and wants me to attempt to order parts and fix it myself. Cowling alone is going to be 700 bucks! My plan is to blow all the electrical connectors out with an air hose and leave them disconnected to dry for a while. Can anyone tell me of other obvious items I should attempt to address? Ll.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-25-2014 09:50 AM ET (US) Sorry to hear about the accident but glad nobody was hurt. Management should be too. You are doing all the right things. You will need to keep changing the oil until there is no evidence of water in it. Anything you can do promote drying, like storing the motor is a warm dry interior space when not being used, will help. eBay is your friend when trying to find a used outboard cowl for less than the list price of a new one. The more you run it, and the more you change the oil, the better. A dealer won't do much more than that. Be glad it was fresh water not salt.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-25-2014 09:53 AM ET (US) If you have to buy a NEW cowl, boats.net has good pricing: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/ 25%20Jet%20EFI%20%283%20CYL.%29%284-STROKE%29/0R165086%20%26%20Up/ Top%20Cowl/parts.html
BQUICK	posted 03-25-2014 10:16 AM ET (US) Dry it best you can and hit it with lots of WD-40.
Landlocked	posted 03-25-2014 10:45 AM ET (US) Thanks guys - yes it was a close call. Closest I've had in over 20 years of doing this type thing. Thanks for the Ebay idea - will check there next. As to the WD-40. I understand it was created as a water displacer. Would there be any problem spraying that inside the electrical connectors?
contender	posted 03-25-2014 10:51 AM ET (US) The big question: was it salt or fresh water? If it was fresh you can get by doing what you have done, salt water you will start seeing problems in your electrical, either replace all the electrical or trade the engine in. You are doing the correct things, spray the engine with the wd40 and running it right away to dry it out..Good luck
Tom W Clark	posted 03-25-2014 10:51 AM ET (US) I would not use WD-40
Landlocked	posted 03-25-2014 10:57 AM ET (US) Thanks - Won't use the WD-40 on the connectors. Yes - luckily it was an East Tennessee river... No salt. Ll.
kwik_wurk	posted 03-25-2014 11:23 AM ET (US) If you have already run the motor a bit, most moisture will have baked off by now. However connectors that have boots, covers etc will be the ones to chase down. -- As Tom mentioned, bring the motor indoors when not used for a long period of time. -- Change the oil, maybe re-do the carbs as well. You mention stalling, but how bogging down, or cut-out, or something else.
jimh	posted 03-25-2014 01:00 PM ET (US) Use WD40 on electrical connectors. It will displace the water. I wouldn't use it on extremely small, multi-pin connectors, but for the sort of electrical connectors on an outboard it should be a good fluid to remove water without causing damage. Most electrical connectors are made with tinned copper contacts. I do not think WD40 will harm them. WD40 also seems safe with most of the plastics used in electrical connectors. Modern outboard often use connectors that are designed to protect against water, so you should check them first for signs of water intrusion. If no water ever got to the connectors, then they probably do not need to be sprayed with much of anything. From the WD40 website: -- What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product do? DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because it displaces moisture, WD-40 Multi-Use Product quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits. -- http://wd40.com/faqs/#a97
jimh	posted 03-25-2014 01:03 PM ET (US) A few years ago a $250 Fluke digital multimeter that I own took a 24-hour bath in fresh water. I pulled it out of the water. I gave the entire circuit board a spray mist with WD40. I used a hair dryer on LOW to dry it off. It resumed working, and still works like new.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-25-2014 02:32 PM ET (US) I think using WD-40 judiciously on electrical connectors would be fine but remember, WD-40 is a very effective solvent. Spraying down the powerhead with WD-40 will put it on grease points where you want the grease to stay. I was using WD-40 just yesterday to degrease some parts and as well as to remove some paint overspray.
Landlocked	posted 03-25-2014 02:36 PM ET (US) Most of the connectors do in fact have rubber boots or "O" rings incorporated into them but when taken apart, they still have water in them. We ran the boat probably 16 total hours after the accident. When it stalls, it is almost like it is starving for fuel. Kind of sputters, looses power, and finally dies. Pumping bulb does not help. Vacuum valve on tank is open. Fuel filter is full of fuel. The only thing I found that allowed me to restart was to take apart the red (I assume ignition wire) on the side of engine, pour out whatever water was in it and then blow it out. Motor will then start right up and run fine for a while. Seems like after it runs for extended time, water somehow re-accumulates in the connector. Based on this - I'm assuming problem is electrical.
Landlocked	posted 03-25-2014 02:37 PM ET (US) Thanks Tom - understood. I've used it to clean parts as well. Also makes a pretty good starter fluid to get motors going when sprayed directly in spark plug holes! Ll.
Don SSDD	posted 03-25-2014 03:13 PM ET (US) Place it where it will get hit by a hot air vent when not in use, or if you know someone with in floor heat, lay it on top of that. Any dry heat source is the best. In Canada, get some Rust Check in the red can- you can spray it on anything, including circuit breakers, electrical panels, no solvent, won't hurt paint or rubber and it displaces water. Don
jimh	posted 03-26-2014 01:41 PM ET (US) I agree with Tom's comment re WD40 being a solvent. Many people think it is a lubricant, but it is really not designed to provide lubrication. It is designed to displace water, hence the "WD" for water displacement in the product name. Follow up with some new lubricants in your engine if you need to give it a lot of WD40 to remove the water.
weekendwarrior	posted 03-26-2014 03:37 PM ET (US) Next time it stalls, check for spark before you do anything else. If you have spark then you probably have a little bubble of water in the carb bowl. If you have no spark then it's electrical.
Landlocked	posted 03-27-2014 09:55 AM ET (US) Excellent suggestion. Thanks!