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Author Topic:   Montauk Bow Eye

kwik_wurk posted 04-08-2014 07:09 PM ET (US)
I am re-doing the bow eye on my Montauk, and would like detailed pictures of an original bow and eye--in good shape of course. Specifically, pictures showing how the small section where the bow eye is mounted. Is the area [faired] flat to make for a flush surface for the bow eye? Or is the bow eye mounted to the curved surface (excluding dimples).
Gelcoat (spectrum patch paste) is down and rough sanded to match the profile of the bow; and to a point of finesse sanding. What is not clear is the exactly OEM shaping. Aside from drilling the dimples, the curvature of the bow and the flatness of the bow eye, make a fair amount of space to fill with 4200 or whatever.
Since the original area on my boat was damaged, I have no reference point has how to [fair] the last little bit. My inclination is flatten the area to give it a solid flat surface.
(I'll post pictures and details of how I did my repair.)
jimh posted 04-09-2014 09:33 AM ET (US)
ASIDE: I had to double check the spelling of fair as a verb, meaning to join so that the external surfaces blend smoothly. Cf. :
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/fair
jimh posted 04-09-2014 11:24 AM ET (US)
I recommend you make a flat surface for the bow eye casting to seat against on the bow stem of your Boston Whaler MONTAUK hull, no matter how the bow eye was originally installed. Function should be more important than form in this instance. Giving a nice flat seat for the base of the bow eye fitting to sit flush against will create a better installation.
jimh posted 04-09-2014 11:26 AM ET (US)
I do not recommend use of an adhesive sealer like 3M-4200 as a way to build up a hull surface to provide a base for a bow eye fitting. If you need to build up the hull to create a flat surface, you should use some laminate and resin. I would use epoxy resin as the adhesive resin for the laminate, as it will make a very strong secondary bond.
kwik_wurk posted 04-09-2014 11:53 AM ET (US)
I no intent on using 4200 as base, but as a sealant. However if one were to mate the flat portion of the bow eye to the curved portion of the bow, a moderate edge gap would develop, and warranting sealant.
I will sand down ([fair] or fair) the pertinent section.

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Author	Topic: Montauk Bow Eye
kwik_wurk	posted 04-08-2014 07:09 PM ET (US) I am re-doing the bow eye on my Montauk, and would like detailed pictures of an original bow and eye--in good shape of course. Specifically, pictures showing how the small section where the bow eye is mounted. Is the area [faired] flat to make for a flush surface for the bow eye? Or is the bow eye mounted to the curved surface (excluding dimples). Gelcoat (spectrum patch paste) is down and rough sanded to match the profile of the bow; and to a point of finesse sanding. What is not clear is the exactly OEM shaping. Aside from drilling the dimples, the curvature of the bow and the flatness of the bow eye, make a fair amount of space to fill with 4200 or whatever. Since the original area on my boat was damaged, I have no reference point has how to [fair] the last little bit. My inclination is flatten the area to give it a solid flat surface. (I'll post pictures and details of how I did my repair.)
jimh	posted 04-09-2014 09:33 AM ET (US) ASIDE: I had to double check the spelling of fair as a verb, meaning to join so that the external surfaces blend smoothly. Cf. : http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/fair
jimh	posted 04-09-2014 11:24 AM ET (US) I recommend you make a flat surface for the bow eye casting to seat against on the bow stem of your Boston Whaler MONTAUK hull, no matter how the bow eye was originally installed. Function should be more important than form in this instance. Giving a nice flat seat for the base of the bow eye fitting to sit flush against will create a better installation.
jimh	posted 04-09-2014 11:26 AM ET (US) I do not recommend use of an adhesive sealer like 3M-4200 as a way to build up a hull surface to provide a base for a bow eye fitting. If you need to build up the hull to create a flat surface, you should use some laminate and resin. I would use epoxy resin as the adhesive resin for the laminate, as it will make a very strong secondary bond.
kwik_wurk	posted 04-09-2014 11:53 AM ET (US) I no intent on using 4200 as base, but as a sealant. However if one were to mate the flat portion of the bow eye to the curved portion of the bow, a moderate edge gap would develop, and warranting sealant. I will sand down ([fair] or fair) the pertinent section.