Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  2001 CONQUEST 26: Removing Oven

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   2001 CONQUEST 26: Removing Oven
BayBum38ft posted 04-09-2014 10:41 PM ET (US)   Profile for BayBum38ft   Send Email to BayBum38ft  
I have a 2001 26 Conquest and the microwave [oven] just quit; no power to control panel. I need to remove the [microwave oven] to replace the fuse. I have [the microwave oven] loose but something is holding it in place. Any ideas? Thanks
jimh posted 04-09-2014 11:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
A CONQUEST from 2001 was probably built at Edgewater. Call the factory and speak with customer service. They can probably help.

I think it is very likely the oven was installed after the boat hull and interior were molded, so there must be a fastener that is accessible.

Dave Sutton posted 04-10-2014 06:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dave Sutton  Send Email to Dave Sutton     
You know that Whalering has changed when rather than figure out how to change the anchor locker drain tube on a Montauk (where hanging onto the motor while using the splashwell as a head is the norm) folks are now asking how to remove the *microwave* ... ;-)

Microwave?


Dave

jimh posted 04-10-2014 09:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I tried to find some more information, but ran into a problem: there is no "26" CONQUEST listed as a 2001 model at WHALERPARTS.COM. What boat are we really talking about?

Also, it is very unlikely there is a fuse in the electrical circuit on a recent model CONQUEST of any length. More likely the electric branch circuit is protected by a circuit breaker. The circuit breaker is typically located on the electrical panel.

If the 120-VAC power at an outlet with a ground fault interrupter (GFI) has shut off due to the GFI having tripped, that outlet should be accessible. It would be a very bad design to put a GFI outlet in a location where the RESET for the GFI could not be easily reached.

Tom W Clark posted 04-10-2014 10:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
The 26' Conquest model is shown in the 2001 Boston Whaler catalog.

The Microwave was part of the optional "Cruising Package"

jimh posted 04-10-2014 10:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
There is no "26" CONQUEST listed as a 2001 model at WHALERPARTS.COM, so you can't get any drawings about its electrical wiring or construction from WHALERPARTS.COM, an on-line resource.

I don't know where you find the 2001 Catalogue on-line, but, even if it were available on-line, I don't think it provides details about where the circuit breaker is located for the oven.

Again, I'd ask Customer Service at the factory. The customer service people have encyclopedic knowledge. I recommend you go to them for problems like this on recent model boats. I consider anything made after Whaler moved to Florida to be "recent" models.

By the way, WHALERPARTS.COM doesn't give any wiring diagrams for the 230 or 280 CONQUEST models it shows for "2001 Models", the only two it lists.

But are we looking for electrical outlets or some mechanical binding problem in the oven mounting? Inquiring minds want to know.

ConB posted 04-10-2014 02:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for ConB  Send Email to ConB     
Some micro waves have long screws that you access in the front that screw into a plate at the rear that is mounted to the inside of the cabinet before you slide the oven into the hole.

Con

Buoy posted 04-10-2014 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buoy  Send Email to Buoy     
If I'm not mistaken, the 2001 26 Conquest is the same hull as the 2002 275 Conquest. I did find the galley (including microwave) diagram on the Boston Whaler\Owners Resources\Boston Whaler Parts Diagrams website. It looks like some type of vertical pan slides into the back, take a look and see if something resonates with you.

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company94/ _56_10212010000463.pdf

jimh posted 04-10-2014 08:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Buoy--thanks for the good link to that diagram. You can find more on that website by starting at

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/page.aspx/pageid/34791/page.aspx

BayBum38ft posted 04-11-2014 08:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
I did call the factory and they were no help, they pulled up the same diagrams that I was looking at and they could not offer any advice, I will call again and hopefully I will get some one else. It is a GE microwave and it is plugged into an outlet behind the unit and the plug is totally inaccessible. I can see the blue plastic outlet box if I look closely down the right side of the microwave but its a very tight fit in the cabinet. There is no other access to any screws, everything is covered with the wood grain Formica. I use the 2002 275 Conquest as a guide for parts and diagrams on whalerparts.com. Thank you all for your comments.

BayBum

Tom W Clark posted 04-11-2014 10:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
As a General Contractor and home builder I have installed (and removed) more than my share of ovens.

Find the model number of the GE Microwave oven. Google that model number and find the PDF installation instructions. The rest will quickly become apparent.

jimh posted 04-11-2014 09:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The Whaler OEM assembly drawing does show the AC outlet is located behind the microwave oven, so it looks like removing the oven is going to be necessary to find out what is going on with the 120-VAC power back there.

My wild guess: look for a fastener coming up from under the counter top into the bottom of the oven, perhaps where the rubber feet would have been fastened if it were just sitting on a table top.

[Moved this whole thread to REPAIRS/MODS--well, at least the parts of it on topic. There was a lot of palaver about acronyms and the confusion they cause when misused--jimh.]

RevengeFamily posted 04-13-2014 07:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
I own a 1999 280 Conquest. I believe the installation of my microwave may be similar to yours on your 2001 Conquest.

To install and secure the microwave on my Conquest, Whaler did NOT screw directly into the body of the appliance. Instead they used a piece of white KING Starboard which was ripped down to approximately 1-1/2-inch wide by the interior dimension of the microwave cabinet or cubby. This piece of KING Starboard acts as a wedge on the top of the microwave and combined with a bottom lip built into the cabinet constrains the microwave in its location.

To fasten the KING Starboard wedge, Whaler simply used two screws sent down through the shelf above. After removing the two screws, I removed the wedge and then removed the microwave.

Re-installation was a bit more challenging as trying to align the existing holes between the KING Starboard wedge and the cabinet was a bit of a challenge do to the lack of space and the fact that the wedge is relatively a snug fit.

Keep us posted as to what you find.

Norm

jimh posted 04-13-2014 08:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Norm--your advice sounds like a winner.

Re microwave ovens: they usually have a microswitch actuated by the door that must shut off the oven's magnetron if the door is opened. This switch is operated with every door opening or closure, and it is often the first electrical device on the oven to fail. Sometimes the circuitry is rather crude, as it can be as simple as the 120-VAC power to the magnetron being run through this switch as an interlock.

Chuck Tribolet posted 04-13-2014 01:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
If it's the door switch, the lights on the microwave control
panel would still light.

And having recently ripped into my GE microwave to replace
the turntable motor, be VERY careful of razor-sharp sheet
metal edges. IIRC there's a warning sticker. It means
business.

And, yes, as Tom points out, there are good resources on GEs
website. And if you need parts, don't order from GE. They
are about twice as expensive as other online resources for
GE parts.

Chuck

BayBum38ft posted 04-25-2014 09:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     

Norm, I did knock out the starboard retainer piece on top of the microwave but still unable to remove the unit. I can lift up the front and rear feet of the microwave but I still have resistance trying to pull out the unit. It feels like there is a tie wrap or something holding back the unit. Its very tight in the cabinet but I can move and lift up the unit and move side to side but unable to pull out. I can see underneath and on both sides of the unit and everything looks clear. I will keep trying.

Thank you all for your replies.

Greg

RevengeFamily posted 04-28-2014 09:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
Greg,

On my 1999 Conquest, the outlet for the microwave was behind the unit. After removing the Starboard I removed the unit and then unplugged the microwave.

From your description, it does sound like the power cord has been tie wrapped, however that would require Gnomes during the manufacturing process... and we all know it's illegal in the state of Florida to use Gnomes for boat building... <---- my stupid humor...

Is it possible that for your model year, the electrical outlet has been relocated below the unit? If this were the case it would explain the limited mobility of the micro... Are you able to get a look down under the cabinet? On board my Conquest, I can remove the trash container on the galley top and being a amateur contortionist I can get my head in there and take a look around. I'm quite sure your layout and design are close to mine. If possible, take a look down below. Whaler would not hard wire a 120v appliance into the galley. The power cord has to be accessible. You just need to search for it's buried location. Now that you have the unit loose, once you find the outlet, you should be golden...

Realize this. On these larger boats, much of the wiring and rigging is done before the upper portion of the cabin is installed. This makes installation much easier at the factory. But do to this factor, to service these boats, you need to be either rubber man or a very good contortionist...

Good luck,
Norm

BayBum38ft posted 04-28-2014 10:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
My 26' Conquest only has a sink in front of the microwave and below the sink is a cabinet with no access to the microwave area. I did hear from the factory and they said the unit may be held in place by some Velcro strips. I can see the outlet box and the power cord plugged in the outlet down the right side of the unit. I may have to cut an access hole on the side of the cabinet and install an access plate cover but I don't see that ending well. If I could post a picture it would be clear.
Thanks to everyone

Maybe this will work-copy and paste

http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/34/12/4423412_20130729070321608_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/34/12/4423412_20130729070321608_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=606&h=467&t=1375110395000


http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/34/12/4423412_20130729070322412_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/34/12/4423412_20130729070322412_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=606&h=467&t=1375110396000

Greg

RevengeFamily posted 04-29-2014 07:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
Greg,

Your galley is a bit different from mine. Space around my microwave unit is tad more spacious than yours, but based on the photo you've linked to, I have to believe that if you have the unit loose and moving front to back, it's just a matter of "shoe horning" it out of it's cabinet.

After mine was loose in the cabinetry, it was just a matter of gently using a flatbar to elevate the rubber feet over the cabinet edge...

Have you done a voltage test on the circuit breaker dedicated to the microwave? Before you finish hauling it out onto the galley counter top, I would remove the electrical panel and double check the circuit breaker functioning and that the wire connections are clean and tight. I have found breakers that appear to be in the "on" position but were actually no longer functioning properly... Just my two cents...

Below is a link to a photo of a galley very similar to mine.

Norm


http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/13/93/4481393_20131007143408093_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/13/93/4481393_20131007143408093_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=606&h=467&t=1381185485000

jimh posted 04-29-2014 12:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
After looking at the images (in the URLs above), I am now worried that if the oven should ever come loose we will next have to disassemble the faucet in front of it to completely remove the oven from the cabinet.
BayBum38ft posted 04-30-2014 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
I have wondered about the faucet too. It will be a few weeks before I get home to work on the boat, I will post updates.

Greg

BayBum38ft posted 04-30-2014 01:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
I did also check out the circuit breaker and I even attached the feed line to the microwave to another known working circuit breaker and still no power to the unit.

Greg

jimh posted 05-01-2014 11:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The saga of this microwave oven reminds me of an old joke:

--How many behavioral therapists does it take to change a lightbulb?

--It only takes one, but the lightbulb has to really want to change.

It seems like on a Boston Whaler 26 CONQUEST it will be possible for a person to change the microwave oven, but that person has to really want to change that oven.

BayBum38ft posted 05-01-2014 12:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
I have this disorder that everything I own has to be working 100%. When I sold our 37 Silverton the buyers surveyor said "WOW". The microwave will be repaired and it will want to be repaired!

Greg

martyn1075 posted 05-02-2014 03:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
Your disorder is always appreciated by buyers when the time is right to sell.
BayBum38ft posted 06-02-2014 06:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
The microwave has been fixed !!!!! Sure enough the unit was being held back by large Velcro strips stuck to the back of the oven and attached to the back of the cabinet. I finally got a good hold on the unit and gave it a good pull. Sure enough it hit the sink faucet but fortunately the faucet neck
was removable and out came the microwave. The fuse was blown and it was easily accessed by removing 3 screws on the back and off came the cover. The fuse was in a holder on top of the chassis and I was able to get a replacement ceramic fuse at Radio Shack. Fixed, Done.

Greg

BayBum38ft posted 06-02-2014 07:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for BayBum38ft  Send Email to BayBum38ft     
Boat has just been listed for sale on the Whaler Marketplace.

BayBum38ft@gmail.com

Greg

RevengeFamily posted 06-02-2014 10:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
Greg,

Glad you repaired your microwave.

Guess I will keep this in mind if and when my micro [fails]. Good luck selling your Conquest.

Norm

jimh posted 06-05-2014 01:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I am glad to hear you got the microwave oven out and found the secret ingredient that was holding it in place--Velco. Who would have guessed?

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.