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Author Topic:   13-Footer: New Navigation Lamp Wiring

HudsonM1 posted 04-14-2014 02:01 PM ET (US)
This evening I'll be replacing the original, white, one-piece rub rail with the new three-part rub rail on my 1965 13-footer. I'll be running new all-round light and sidelight wiring inside the rub rail as recommended.
I can't find guidance in the site FAQs or archives on how folks have run the wires back inside the boat at the stern. Is the preferred approach as simple as drilling through the gunnel at the stern (under the rub rail as I'll do at the bow for the sidelight), passing the wires through to the interior, then concealing with a small clamshell cover?
Thanks, and I do apologize if I've missed this in previous posts or the FAQs!
Hudson
jimh posted 04-15-2014 09:07 AM ET (US)
I do not believe there is any other solution to routing the wiring from the combined sidelight at bow via inside the rub rail receiver track to the interior of the cockpit, other than drilling a hole from somewhere along the track, in the portion that will be covered by the vinyl insert, through the hull side, and into the cockpit. I think you are correct: this is not clearly covered in prior articles. Let us know your experience, and it will be added to the FAQ. I suggest you pick a good spot and drill at downward angle into the interior so the exit hole is lower. Also, don't be surprised on an older 13-footer like yours if you drill through some metal in that area. There may be flexible electrical conduit molded into the hull in that area. It was used as a venting system for air to escape while the foam expanded.
skred posted 04-15-2014 09:48 AM ET (US)
I support Jim's advice. My 1987 13 Utility had no hole thru the outside of the gunnel, but did have an exit hole inside 4-5 inches lower than the rub rail. I drilled downward at an angle through the center of the rub rail strip, encountered a small amount of some sort of wood on the way, and lined it up with the inside hole. I then ran a heavy piece of wire through to clear the foam a bit and establish a fairly straight line outside to inside. Worked out just fine. Now, begins the battle to replace the rub rail....
Tom W Clark posted 04-15-2014 10:34 AM ET (US)
Yes, you just drill through the gunwale. The interior hole is then covered by a terminal block used to connect the runs of wire.
Here is an example of such a terminal block:
http://www.bluesea.com/products/2402/Terminal_Block_20A_-_2_Circuit
HudsonM1 posted 04-15-2014 10:40 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the guidance! I would not have thought to drill the hole at a downward angle. Excellent suggestion. I might run a small diameter tube/hose through the hole as conduit and seal the edges (with Life Caulk or something).
I'll take pics and let you know how it goes.
BTW, I got the rigid track on last night. Went on pretty much as expected, and by that I mean the great white serpent and I battled for 2+ hours, with each of us getting the upper hand at times. Even though it is a smart and cunning beast, I prevailed. (A heat gun, clamps, soft deadblow mallet, and screws did the trick.) It looks great.
One question on that.....Seems the screws should be sealed with something to keep water out of the gunnel, but couldn't figure out how to do that. Since the screws are on a verticle surface and somewhat protected by the track and the soft "L channel" under the track, I went without. Are those screws typically sealed?
Hudson
HudsonM1 posted 04-15-2014 11:56 AM ET (US)
Thanks Tom.
And gee....what terrible spelling errors I made (gunwale, vertical). I swear I'm an educated man....Thanks for no one calling me out. :-)
skred posted 04-19-2014 10:53 AM ET (US)
Hudson, I am facing the rub rail challenge on my 1987 13 Sport. I'm replacing the track and the rubber both. The old (original?) track is pop riveted every 4-6 inches. Instructions I've read here say to fill those holes with some sealant upon rivet removal, and drill new ones adjacent to them. I plan to use pop rivets again, and fill the new holes with sealant before putting in the new rivets. Not trying to hijack this thread, but if anyone has other or additional suggestions, I think they'd be welcome here.
jimh posted 04-21-2014 02:06 PM ET (US)
If you decide to install a terminal strip to terminate the new wiring, be aware that there are two distinct types of terminal strips. Most terminal strips have the screw fasteners arranged so on the back side of the molded part there is an opening. This type should be avoided in marine use. Look for the alternative type of terminal strip which has a completely closed, flat face on the backside. This will prevent water from getting into the back of the terminals and screw fasteners. If you are a freshwater boater you can probably leave the terminal strip exposed to the air but protected with a little splash shield. If you are a saltwater boater, you will need to provide more weather protection.

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Author	Topic: 13-Footer: New Navigation Lamp Wiring
HudsonM1	posted 04-14-2014 02:01 PM ET (US) This evening I'll be replacing the original, white, one-piece rub rail with the new three-part rub rail on my 1965 13-footer. I'll be running new all-round light and sidelight wiring inside the rub rail as recommended. I can't find guidance in the site FAQs or archives on how folks have run the wires back inside the boat at the stern. Is the preferred approach as simple as drilling through the gunnel at the stern (under the rub rail as I'll do at the bow for the sidelight), passing the wires through to the interior, then concealing with a small clamshell cover? Thanks, and I do apologize if I've missed this in previous posts or the FAQs! Hudson
jimh	posted 04-15-2014 09:07 AM ET (US) I do not believe there is any other solution to routing the wiring from the combined sidelight at bow via inside the rub rail receiver track to the interior of the cockpit, other than drilling a hole from somewhere along the track, in the portion that will be covered by the vinyl insert, through the hull side, and into the cockpit. I think you are correct: this is not clearly covered in prior articles. Let us know your experience, and it will be added to the FAQ. I suggest you pick a good spot and drill at downward angle into the interior so the exit hole is lower. Also, don't be surprised on an older 13-footer like yours if you drill through some metal in that area. There may be flexible electrical conduit molded into the hull in that area. It was used as a venting system for air to escape while the foam expanded.
skred	posted 04-15-2014 09:48 AM ET (US) I support Jim's advice. My 1987 13 Utility had no hole thru the outside of the gunnel, but did have an exit hole inside 4-5 inches lower than the rub rail. I drilled downward at an angle through the center of the rub rail strip, encountered a small amount of some sort of wood on the way, and lined it up with the inside hole. I then ran a heavy piece of wire through to clear the foam a bit and establish a fairly straight line outside to inside. Worked out just fine. Now, begins the battle to replace the rub rail....
Tom W Clark	posted 04-15-2014 10:34 AM ET (US) Yes, you just drill through the gunwale. The interior hole is then covered by a terminal block used to connect the runs of wire. Here is an example of such a terminal block: http://www.bluesea.com/products/2402/Terminal_Block_20A_-_2_Circuit
HudsonM1	posted 04-15-2014 10:40 AM ET (US) Thanks for the guidance! I would not have thought to drill the hole at a downward angle. Excellent suggestion. I might run a small diameter tube/hose through the hole as conduit and seal the edges (with Life Caulk or something). I'll take pics and let you know how it goes. BTW, I got the rigid track on last night. Went on pretty much as expected, and by that I mean the great white serpent and I battled for 2+ hours, with each of us getting the upper hand at times. Even though it is a smart and cunning beast, I prevailed. (A heat gun, clamps, soft deadblow mallet, and screws did the trick.) It looks great. One question on that.....Seems the screws should be sealed with something to keep water out of the gunnel, but couldn't figure out how to do that. Since the screws are on a verticle surface and somewhat protected by the track and the soft "L channel" under the track, I went without. Are those screws typically sealed? Hudson
HudsonM1	posted 04-15-2014 11:56 AM ET (US) Thanks Tom. And gee....what terrible spelling errors I made (gunwale, vertical). I swear I'm an educated man....Thanks for no one calling me out. :-)
skred	posted 04-19-2014 10:53 AM ET (US) Hudson, I am facing the rub rail challenge on my 1987 13 Sport. I'm replacing the track and the rubber both. The old (original?) track is pop riveted every 4-6 inches. Instructions I've read here say to fill those holes with some sealant upon rivet removal, and drill new ones adjacent to them. I plan to use pop rivets again, and fill the new holes with sealant before putting in the new rivets. Not trying to hijack this thread, but if anyone has other or additional suggestions, I think they'd be welcome here.
jimh	posted 04-21-2014 02:06 PM ET (US) If you decide to install a terminal strip to terminate the new wiring, be aware that there are two distinct types of terminal strips. Most terminal strips have the screw fasteners arranged so on the back side of the molded part there is an opening. This type should be avoided in marine use. Look for the alternative type of terminal strip which has a completely closed, flat face on the backside. This will prevent water from getting into the back of the terminals and screw fasteners. If you are a freshwater boater you can probably leave the terminal strip exposed to the air but protected with a little splash shield. If you are a saltwater boater, you will need to provide more weather protection.