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Author Topic:   Outrage 17 fitting fuel tank cover back in

picflight posted 04-20-2014 09:24 PM ET (US)
1998 outrage 17
I had some repair done on the front port side of the fuel tank cover, see earlier thread.
Before placing it in the boat, I took a 4' level and made sure the repair side was level and matching the other side.
Trying to fit it turned out not as expected. After taking it out 6 times, grinding, there is just a tad, 1/16" flex in the deck when stepped on the starboard side front corner.
I have been using a piece if paper to find out where contact is but have not been able to make it sit perfectly solid.
Any tips?
Phil T posted 04-21-2014 12:03 PM ET (US)
I presume the inspection ports are all open when reinstalling.
Check by viewing from a open port using a mirror and flashlight.
Jerry Townsend posted 04-21-2014 12:50 PM ET (US)
Many - many years ago, when wanting a perfect fit, we would use a blue colored liquid - as I recall it was called something like Selsium (but, I am not sure of that name) Blue. Applied with a "dabber" ball. It would not dry, but when put on one piece of mating parts, some would show on the other mating piece at the points of contact. We could than make some adjustments at that point. We could do this a few times until it showed perfect contact on all surfaces. --- Jerry/Idaho
picflight posted 04-21-2014 12:55 PM ET (US)
There is one inspection port, marked with a circle in the diagram, see link below. The other part is the towards the front starboard side where the wiring for the console emerges from underneath. I have not pulled the wiring through just yet, and there is enough room below for the cables and are not interfering with the deck sitting.
I used an inspection camera and I could clearly see light coming in around the edges where there was clearance and dark areas where there was contact.
What I am having trouble with is translating this data into the precision needed to grid those areas. And also not to cause damage by grinding and not to grind that side that was not worked on. I think this side was sitting when I took it out and should sit right back in.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/13956928065_2334212794_b.jpg
picflight posted 04-21-2014 01:08 PM ET (US)
Jerry,
Thanks for the tip, today I had decided to give it a more scientific approach and reach that precision point of mated surfaces.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer%27s_blue
picflight posted 04-23-2014 07:14 PM ET (US)
Is it easier to make a mold (Liquid Urethane Mold Rubber
) for the ledge where the cover sits and use that to make the fine adjustments while the cover is out of the boat?

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Author	Topic: Outrage 17 fitting fuel tank cover back in
picflight	posted 04-20-2014 09:24 PM ET (US) 1998 outrage 17 I had some repair done on the front port side of the fuel tank cover, see earlier thread. Before placing it in the boat, I took a 4' level and made sure the repair side was level and matching the other side. Trying to fit it turned out not as expected. After taking it out 6 times, grinding, there is just a tad, 1/16" flex in the deck when stepped on the starboard side front corner. I have been using a piece if paper to find out where contact is but have not been able to make it sit perfectly solid. Any tips?
Phil T	posted 04-21-2014 12:03 PM ET (US) I presume the inspection ports are all open when reinstalling. Check by viewing from a open port using a mirror and flashlight.
Jerry Townsend	posted 04-21-2014 12:50 PM ET (US) Many - many years ago, when wanting a perfect fit, we would use a blue colored liquid - as I recall it was called something like Selsium (but, I am not sure of that name) Blue. Applied with a "dabber" ball. It would not dry, but when put on one piece of mating parts, some would show on the other mating piece at the points of contact. We could than make some adjustments at that point. We could do this a few times until it showed perfect contact on all surfaces. --- Jerry/Idaho
picflight	posted 04-21-2014 12:55 PM ET (US) There is one inspection port, marked with a circle in the diagram, see link below. The other part is the towards the front starboard side where the wiring for the console emerges from underneath. I have not pulled the wiring through just yet, and there is enough room below for the cables and are not interfering with the deck sitting. I used an inspection camera and I could clearly see light coming in around the edges where there was clearance and dark areas where there was contact. What I am having trouble with is translating this data into the precision needed to grid those areas. And also not to cause damage by grinding and not to grind that side that was not worked on. I think this side was sitting when I took it out and should sit right back in. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/13956928065_2334212794_b.jpg
picflight	posted 04-21-2014 01:08 PM ET (US) Jerry, Thanks for the tip, today I had decided to give it a more scientific approach and reach that precision point of mated surfaces. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer%27s_blue
picflight	posted 04-23-2014 07:14 PM ET (US) Is it easier to make a mold (Liquid Urethane Mold Rubber ) for the ledge where the cover sits and use that to make the fine adjustments while the cover is out of the boat?