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Author Topic:   Bolting Outboard to stern of a 13 ft whaler

jorr1960 posted 04-24-2014 07:45 PM ET (US)
Greetings all,
This site is a wealth of knowledge and I have enjoyed the benefits of the experience of the contributors, but I cannot find an answer to this question.
I am swapping motors on my '68 13 footer and the 1986 35 HP Merc short shaft I am installing has a deeper mounting plate than the 25 HP Johnson I am removing. Deep enough that the bolt holes are below the thinner part of the transom by about an inch. Is it okay to drill through the thicker area lower on the transom in order to mount this motor? I assume that the thicker area is full of foam and I don;t know if the inner shell is strong enough to mount the bolts through without causing damage.
Tom Hemphill posted 04-24-2014 08:42 PM ET (US)
My 1966 13-foot Sport had the same engine. For the 15 or so years I had it, the bottom bolts went through the thicker portion of the transom (see http://hemphill.org/whaler/steering.jpg ) with no problem. The wood locating diagram I obtained from whalercentral.com shows the wood extends to the bottom of the transom, and describes the wood as "full transom thickness."
csj posted 04-24-2014 08:49 PM ET (US)
Sir, I have 2 Whalers, one being a 1969 13' for my son. My dilemma was just the opposite, having had a short shaft and going to a 25 hp long shaft. With that said I did not want to drill additional holes in the transom, with the age of the boat etc. What I decided to do is purchase a two piece bracket, securing it to the boat with the original drilled holes and then drilling holes in the bracket to suit the correct engine height. What was nice is it set the engine back approx. 4 inches, giving more clearance in the back well. No issues with planning etc. With that said, when you made reference to the thicker part of the transom, I'm assuming you can still use a thru bolt ?
picflight posted 04-24-2014 09:16 PM ET (US)
I would also prefer not to drill new holes or avoid new holes at all cost. I like csj's approach.
csj posted 04-24-2014 09:49 PM ET (US)
I would send a pic but the 13' is still shrunk wrapped. I can in a few weeks by phone. I either got a cmc or Th marine set.
jorr1960 posted 04-24-2014 10:54 PM ET (US)
This is great information. It sounds like I can go either way and do okay as long as I seal holes well. Great picture Tom, that is EXACTLY the set up I am looking at, WOW.
jorr1960 posted 04-24-2014 10:55 PM ET (US)
CSJ, if you locate what you used, I would love to investigate that set up as well. Thanks for that suggestion.

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Author	Topic: Bolting Outboard to stern of a 13 ft whaler
jorr1960	posted 04-24-2014 07:45 PM ET (US) Greetings all, This site is a wealth of knowledge and I have enjoyed the benefits of the experience of the contributors, but I cannot find an answer to this question. I am swapping motors on my '68 13 footer and the 1986 35 HP Merc short shaft I am installing has a deeper mounting plate than the 25 HP Johnson I am removing. Deep enough that the bolt holes are below the thinner part of the transom by about an inch. Is it okay to drill through the thicker area lower on the transom in order to mount this motor? I assume that the thicker area is full of foam and I don;t know if the inner shell is strong enough to mount the bolts through without causing damage.
Tom Hemphill	posted 04-24-2014 08:42 PM ET (US) My 1966 13-foot Sport had the same engine. For the 15 or so years I had it, the bottom bolts went through the thicker portion of the transom (see http://hemphill.org/whaler/steering.jpg ) with no problem. The wood locating diagram I obtained from whalercentral.com shows the wood extends to the bottom of the transom, and describes the wood as "full transom thickness."
csj	posted 04-24-2014 08:49 PM ET (US) Sir, I have 2 Whalers, one being a 1969 13' for my son. My dilemma was just the opposite, having had a short shaft and going to a 25 hp long shaft. With that said I did not want to drill additional holes in the transom, with the age of the boat etc. What I decided to do is purchase a two piece bracket, securing it to the boat with the original drilled holes and then drilling holes in the bracket to suit the correct engine height. What was nice is it set the engine back approx. 4 inches, giving more clearance in the back well. No issues with planning etc. With that said, when you made reference to the thicker part of the transom, I'm assuming you can still use a thru bolt ?
picflight	posted 04-24-2014 09:16 PM ET (US) I would also prefer not to drill new holes or avoid new holes at all cost. I like csj's approach.
csj	posted 04-24-2014 09:49 PM ET (US) I would send a pic but the 13' is still shrunk wrapped. I can in a few weeks by phone. I either got a cmc or Th marine set.
jorr1960	posted 04-24-2014 10:54 PM ET (US) This is great information. It sounds like I can go either way and do okay as long as I seal holes well. Great picture Tom, that is EXACTLY the set up I am looking at, WOW.
jorr1960	posted 04-24-2014 10:55 PM ET (US) CSJ, if you locate what you used, I would love to investigate that set up as well. Thanks for that suggestion.