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Author Topic:   1999 23 Conquest Pump Wiring

csj posted 04-30-2014 01:50 PM ET (US)
I'm attempting to determine why my factory bilge [pump] is not working automatically as opposed to manually. The pump and separate float are both two-wire unit. And the factory switch is a ON-OFF toggle switch. With that said, I would assume if there is a separate float below, that it is designed to work automatically, otherwise why would one need a float unit? I can't seem to locate a separate fuse and was hoping someone is familiar with the set up.
jimh posted 05-01-2014 11:00 AM ET (US)
From your description, you have an electrical circuit which is controlled by a two-position switch, marked ON and OFF. You seem to presume that the device in the circuit being controlled can be set into three modes of operation, OFF, MANUAL, or AUTO. I do not see any basis for a electrical device to operate in three modes when the circuitry controlling the device has only two settings. The only possibility I can imagine is for the controlled device to have some sort of intelligence and to monitor the application of power to see if some pattern of on-off switching is sent to it as a signal. However, I doubt that is being used to control a pump.
You also seem to presume that the branch circuit would be protected by two over-current devices, and both would be fuses. Generally all branch circuits have their own over-current protection for the power they distribute. I would anticipate on a 1999 Boston Whaler cabin boat that circuit breakers would have been used for each branch circuit.
It is sometimes seen that devices wired to a branch circuit will also have their own fuse. I would not expect a sump pump to have its own fuse because it is intended to operate underwater, and providing a fuse that could tolerate continual immersion in water would be difficult. If the pump has its own fuse, it would most likely be located in-line on the positive conductor of the circuit feeding power to the pump, but probably some distance from the pump to allow the fuse to be away from the wet environment of the pump.
Your description of the control switch varies from what I have seen on other Boston Whaler boats. My experience is to find a three-position switch, with center OFF, momentary ON, and non-momentary AUTO settings.
HawaiianWhaler posted 05-07-2014 10:35 AM ET (US)
My 1999 Conquest has two parallel circuits for the single bilge pump. One circuit is the manually switched one controlled by the on/off switch at the helm station and the other is the automatic one controlled by the float switch. Each circuit has its own circuit breaker. The manual circuit's breaker is right below the switch; the automatic circuit's breaker is mounted (on my Conquest) on the stbd inner hull liner under the stbd aft quarter seat. See pc. 42 of Boston Whaler dwg http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company94/ _56_74201093709PM.pdf
That breaker has either tripped or failed. If the bilge pump can satisfactorily be operated using the manual circuit then it would seem the pump itself is functioning, hence the automatic circuit's breaker has likely failed.
Good luck, aloha.

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Author	Topic: 1999 23 Conquest Pump Wiring
csj	posted 04-30-2014 01:50 PM ET (US) I'm attempting to determine why my factory bilge [pump] is not working automatically as opposed to manually. The pump and separate float are both two-wire unit. And the factory switch is a ON-OFF toggle switch. With that said, I would assume if there is a separate float below, that it is designed to work automatically, otherwise why would one need a float unit? I can't seem to locate a separate fuse and was hoping someone is familiar with the set up.
jimh	posted 05-01-2014 11:00 AM ET (US) From your description, you have an electrical circuit which is controlled by a two-position switch, marked ON and OFF. You seem to presume that the device in the circuit being controlled can be set into three modes of operation, OFF, MANUAL, or AUTO. I do not see any basis for a electrical device to operate in three modes when the circuitry controlling the device has only two settings. The only possibility I can imagine is for the controlled device to have some sort of intelligence and to monitor the application of power to see if some pattern of on-off switching is sent to it as a signal. However, I doubt that is being used to control a pump. You also seem to presume that the branch circuit would be protected by two over-current devices, and both would be fuses. Generally all branch circuits have their own over-current protection for the power they distribute. I would anticipate on a 1999 Boston Whaler cabin boat that circuit breakers would have been used for each branch circuit. It is sometimes seen that devices wired to a branch circuit will also have their own fuse. I would not expect a sump pump to have its own fuse because it is intended to operate underwater, and providing a fuse that could tolerate continual immersion in water would be difficult. If the pump has its own fuse, it would most likely be located in-line on the positive conductor of the circuit feeding power to the pump, but probably some distance from the pump to allow the fuse to be away from the wet environment of the pump. Your description of the control switch varies from what I have seen on other Boston Whaler boats. My experience is to find a three-position switch, with center OFF, momentary ON, and non-momentary AUTO settings.
HawaiianWhaler	posted 05-07-2014 10:35 AM ET (US) My 1999 Conquest has two parallel circuits for the single bilge pump. One circuit is the manually switched one controlled by the on/off switch at the helm station and the other is the automatic one controlled by the float switch. Each circuit has its own circuit breaker. The manual circuit's breaker is right below the switch; the automatic circuit's breaker is mounted (on my Conquest) on the stbd inner hull liner under the stbd aft quarter seat. See pc. 42 of Boston Whaler dwg http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company94/ _56_74201093709PM.pdf That breaker has either tripped or failed. If the bilge pump can satisfactorily be operated using the manual circuit then it would seem the pump itself is functioning, hence the automatic circuit's breaker has likely failed. Good luck, aloha.