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Author Topic:   Drain Tube Replacement Project

wally910 posted 05-03-2014 02:38 PM ET (US)
I started replacement of my drain tubes today on a 1986 Montauk. I was able to remove the splash well tubes, as well as the sump tube, with relative ease. Despite their very poor condition, there doesn't appear to be any water intrusion. The wood was dry and solid, as was the foam from what I could tell.
I found that my 9-inch extension for a 1/2-inch drive ratchet made a good makeshift punch for hammering out the old tubes. I first attached a 3/4-inch deep-socket to it, but later removed it and found that the female end of the extension worked fine on its own.
This brings me to my question for those of you that have done this project on a mid-eighties whaler. I have gone through more threads on the general topic than I can count, but have not found a specific answer to this.
I have the 1-inch tube from McMaster Carr, along with a pipe cutter that will make 90 degree cuts to the tube. I intend to use the flaring tool made by, I believe, Moeller to complete the job. Is a 90 degree cut sufficient, given that the transom is angled, or should the tube be cut to match the angle as close as possible? Thanks for the responses!

macfam posted 05-04-2014 09:05 AM ET (US)
See this reference:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
"The tubing must be cut to conform to the contour of the hull or deck."
wally910 posted 05-04-2014 05:30 PM ET (US)
I continued the project today and started with the splash well holes. I found a length of 2-9/16-inches to be the correct length for my hull. I also found that an impact wrench makes quick work of forming the first flare.
After cutting a piece of tubing to the correct length, I annealed with a torch and then quenched in water. I did not heat to the point of the brass being red hot, but it did hiss when quenched.
I next de-burred using a Dremmel grinding stone. I didn't go to overboard, just to the point that I could run my finger along without feeling any obvious burrs.
Next, I lubricated the inside of the first side to be flanged with Hornady One Shot, an aerosol lubricant used in re-loading. I then assembled the flaring tool with the die facing correctly on the side to be flanged and the other die reversed so that the flat side touched the other end of the tube. Using a crescent wrench and the impact driver, I formed the flare. It would be easy to overdo with this method. I found that a couple short bursts were sufficient.
I then dry-fitted them and they appear to be the right length. Not sure I'm going to use the impact driver to form the second flare. It may be a bit too much for the job. I'll report the results when I get them installed.
So far, this has been a surprisingly easy project and I'm glad I decided to undertake it.
jimh posted 05-05-2014 08:13 AM ET (US)
As reported in the FAQ, a ball-peen hammer seems sufficient to bend the soft copper tubing into a flange.
Plotman posted 05-05-2014 04:53 PM ET (US)
Can confirm. Large ball peen hammer is what I have found is the best solution for forming flanges that are not perpendicular to the axis of the drain tube.
I know it seems odd to whack on your whaler (you actually hit one hammer with another), but it works very, very well.
Also, remember that this is a job that is super easy to tear out and start over if you don't like the result, so don't let inexperience from keeping you from tackling it.
wally910 posted 05-06-2014 08:08 PM ET (US)
Today, I dry-fitted the sump drain tube and came upon a small problem. It appears as though the hole on the outside of the transom and on the inside of the sump are misaligned. When I insert the tubing from the outside, it will not fit into the inside hole in the sump. I did not get to fool around with it much, but I could not get it to go through the hole in the sump. There is virtually no wiggle room when the pipe goes through the transom as it is cut almost exactly to the diameter of the tubing and is fairly thick, I'd say an inch and a half, before reaching the somewhat hollowed out foam area. Any ideas? Should it fit in from the sump side? Is the fix to slightly bend the tubing to match? I would be grateful for any ideas. I am perplexed.

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Author	Topic: Drain Tube Replacement Project
wally910	posted 05-03-2014 02:38 PM ET (US) I started replacement of my drain tubes today on a 1986 Montauk. I was able to remove the splash well tubes, as well as the sump tube, with relative ease. Despite their very poor condition, there doesn't appear to be any water intrusion. The wood was dry and solid, as was the foam from what I could tell. I found that my 9-inch extension for a 1/2-inch drive ratchet made a good makeshift punch for hammering out the old tubes. I first attached a 3/4-inch deep-socket to it, but later removed it and found that the female end of the extension worked fine on its own. This brings me to my question for those of you that have done this project on a mid-eighties whaler. I have gone through more threads on the general topic than I can count, but have not found a specific answer to this. I have the 1-inch tube from McMaster Carr, along with a pipe cutter that will make 90 degree cuts to the tube. I intend to use the flaring tool made by, I believe, Moeller to complete the job. Is a 90 degree cut sufficient, given that the transom is angled, or should the tube be cut to match the angle as close as possible? Thanks for the responses!
macfam	posted 05-04-2014 09:05 AM ET (US) See this reference: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12 "The tubing must be cut to conform to the contour of the hull or deck."
wally910	posted 05-04-2014 05:30 PM ET (US) I continued the project today and started with the splash well holes. I found a length of 2-9/16-inches to be the correct length for my hull. I also found that an impact wrench makes quick work of forming the first flare. After cutting a piece of tubing to the correct length, I annealed with a torch and then quenched in water. I did not heat to the point of the brass being red hot, but it did hiss when quenched. I next de-burred using a Dremmel grinding stone. I didn't go to overboard, just to the point that I could run my finger along without feeling any obvious burrs. Next, I lubricated the inside of the first side to be flanged with Hornady One Shot, an aerosol lubricant used in re-loading. I then assembled the flaring tool with the die facing correctly on the side to be flanged and the other die reversed so that the flat side touched the other end of the tube. Using a crescent wrench and the impact driver, I formed the flare. It would be easy to overdo with this method. I found that a couple short bursts were sufficient. I then dry-fitted them and they appear to be the right length. Not sure I'm going to use the impact driver to form the second flare. It may be a bit too much for the job. I'll report the results when I get them installed. So far, this has been a surprisingly easy project and I'm glad I decided to undertake it.
jimh	posted 05-05-2014 08:13 AM ET (US) As reported in the FAQ, a ball-peen hammer seems sufficient to bend the soft copper tubing into a flange.
Plotman	posted 05-05-2014 04:53 PM ET (US) Can confirm. Large ball peen hammer is what I have found is the best solution for forming flanges that are not perpendicular to the axis of the drain tube. I know it seems odd to whack on your whaler (you actually hit one hammer with another), but it works very, very well. Also, remember that this is a job that is super easy to tear out and start over if you don't like the result, so don't let inexperience from keeping you from tackling it.
wally910	posted 05-06-2014 08:08 PM ET (US) Today, I dry-fitted the sump drain tube and came upon a small problem. It appears as though the hole on the outside of the transom and on the inside of the sump are misaligned. When I insert the tubing from the outside, it will not fit into the inside hole in the sump. I did not get to fool around with it much, but I could not get it to go through the hole in the sump. There is virtually no wiggle room when the pipe goes through the transom as it is cut almost exactly to the diameter of the tubing and is fairly thick, I'd say an inch and a half, before reaching the somewhat hollowed out foam area. Any ideas? Should it fit in from the sump side? Is the fix to slightly bend the tubing to match? I would be grateful for any ideas. I am perplexed.