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  Rage 14 - OMC 115 Turbojet - Engine Problems

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Author Topic:   Rage 14 - OMC 115 Turbojet - Engine Problems
JCP0575 posted 05-07-2014 03:07 PM ET (US)   Profile for JCP0575   Send Email to JCP0575  
I just acquired this 1994 Rage 14 w/ 115 OMC Turbojet. Original engine was overheated and removed. I was given a used engine all re-sealed to install. I bought the Service Manual and got to it. I have some issues, New engine has flat back plate, original engine has a pertruding back plate. Not sure where to connect the Green wire from Battery compartment to Engine compartment along with a Purple w/ Red stipe wire that is constant hot (12V +) coming out of the loom into the engine compartment, looks like someone just cut it but I cant trace it to anything. and lastly, It overheats on the hose after 3 minutes. All cooling hoses are routed correctly as per the service Manual display in the back of the book. Once the engine stalls on the hose,(From not reving or giving it gas I assume) the cylinders, especially the bottom (2) fill with water and the motor wont turn until I remove the plugs. If I leave the hose on too long with the engine off, water comes out of the carbs in the front. I noticed when connecting the engine to the adaptor plate, there were welds along the bottom of the plate, The adaptor dosent leak, but could there be an issue internally on the exhaust adapter. New to Boston Whalers and Jet drives, Its a nice boat, Starts up instantly everytime until it stalls when the water is still running, then that's when the water backs up in the cylinders and out of the carbs. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
jimh posted 05-07-2014 03:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I am no RAGE expert, but, since it has an OMC engine, try the wiring according to:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html

jimh posted 05-07-2014 03:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The VIOLET with RED stripe conductor is usually fused (at 10-Amperes) and is fed from the primary 12-Volt battery positive, typically around the SOLENOID for the electric cranking motor.
JCP0575 posted 05-08-2014 09:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for JCP0575  Send Email to JCP0575     
Thank you for the diagram. Would anyone know if I am getting water coming into the lower cylinders of my engine, if the Exhaust adapter is the problem. Engine is resealed, runs perfect without the water on, Once I hook the hose after about 5 seconds of running, it shakes violently then stalls. After it stalls the engine locks up until I remove the plugs and drain the water out of the cylinders. I have the engine back out of the boat, inspected hoses and T's and Thermostats, all look new, springs still have a blue powdery coat on them. Any help is appreciated. I want to get it on the water soon. So far I feel like I took a loss on this deal.
Speedracer posted 05-15-2014 06:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for Speedracer  Send Email to Speedracer     
The "flat back plate" (I'm assuming you're referring to the exhaust side) is a 90. The "bubble is a 115. Someone may have sold you a 90 instead of the 115. They look the same, otherwise. If you have the Turbojet manual (90 and 115 is the same book) it shows you the difference. Water hydro locking your lower cylinders, overheating, and water coming out of the carbs are all major problems. I'm assuming you're in fresh water, otherwise your carbs would stop working after a few days, all together. Check the thermostats. They could be stuck shut. I pulled mine our completely my water is 82-89 degrees all year long, so the thermostats are not necessary. That may be your overheating problem. Make sure that the water from the hose is not coming right back out of the exhaust before circulating. Pull the top (small) hoses from the top of the cylinder heads and make sure you have water coming out of them. Generally speaking, if you have water in your cylinders, there is a head gasket issue or cracked cylinder walls/surface. Check your compression. Water jackets are not supposed to pump water inside the motor. I've heard some guys say that they can run water through the motor all day long, without running the engine. I always start my engine first and then turn on the water. Recommended practice for outboards and Waveunners. Hope you get it dialed in. My Rage 15 is also giving me fits. Wish BW would have used a 115 Yamaha outboard in this design. We probably would not even have a needed this thread.
thomasrodco posted 07-05-2014 10:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for thomasrodco  Send Email to thomasrodco     
I am re-wiring a 1995 Rage 14 and need to know where the heavy Green wire goes. Did you figure it out?
JCP0575 posted 08-14-2015 10:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for JCP0575  Send Email to JCP0575     
Just wanted to tell everyone [the problems on my Boston Whaler RAGE boat] are resolved. The problem stemmed from the the guy from whom I bought the boat. I was given two engines: the original blown 90 and a good 115. The guy re-sealed the 115 and must have accidently put on the 90 flat exhaust plate, which allowed for a lack of water pressure to the heads and intake water to be forced against the exhaust ports.
jimh posted 08-16-2015 10:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
On a Boston Whaler boat with an integral aluminum fuel tank there is usually a 10-AWG bonding wire with green insulation. This conductor connects all metallic or conductive elements of the fuel system together. The fuel system is then usually bonded to a dedicated bronze anode on the transom or to the battery negative terminal.

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