Drains: Change Plug to Threaded Type from Pressure Fit

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Drains: Change Plug to Threaded Type from Pressure Fit

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Drains: Change Plug to Threaded Type from Pressure Fit

RickCFL posted 05-29-2014 12:04 PM ET (US)
Has anyone ever changed the screw drain plug on the drain tube on the hull to a female-male [threaded] brass that you tighten and can put on an adjustable wrench? I will be leaving the boat in the water and don't really want to leave the rubber plug with twist type or expanding type plug in there all the time.
Tom W Clark posted 05-29-2014 12:10 PM ET (US)

quote:
I will be leaving the boat in the water and don't really want to leave the rubber plug with twist type or expanding type plug in there all the time.
Why not?
RickCFL posted 05-29-2014 12:25 PM ET (US)
[The twist or expanding type plug for a through-hull drain] doesn't feel like a more permanent plug to me. I never really have had any boat that didn't have a permanent screw type plug. Not that it could happen, but, if the rubber screw type fell out, what would happen? The weight of the motor would bring in water but only to fill up a small amount in the rigging tube? No higher water?
I am going to have a bilge pump installed, while leaving the plug in all the time, also.
2manyboats posted 05-29-2014 12:40 PM ET (US)
If you are worried about the plug falling out, put one on the inside too.
jimh posted 05-29-2014 12:42 PM ET (US)
The through-hull drains on most classic Boston Whaler boats are usually recommended to be left open if the boat is to be left in the water and unattended for long periods of time. See the owner's manual recommendation from Boston Whaler at
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/operations. html#selfBailing
The pressure-fit drain plugs don't just pop out, in my experience. If they're left in place for a while, than can require quite a bit of effort to remove them. I usually lubricate the rubber a bit with vaseline before I put them in place so they won't be so stuck.
RickCFL posted 05-29-2014 12:47 PM ET (US)
Interesting Jim. I have the 16.7 1975 smirkless. I assume same deal; water will go in and out on its own. No need for a bilge pump then I assume also? One way to test it. I will launch her without the plug to confirm how much water comes in. I can just as quickly put the plug in if I don't like it. Thanks
DVollrath posted 05-29-2014 12:50 PM ET (US)
If you are putting the plug into the tube on the outside of the boat, it won't fall out due to the pressure of the water trying to get in.
Having it on the inside seems better at any rate, as you can open it under way to lose water more quickly. I think the plugs are pretty simple and reliable, and as you point out in the unlikely event of failure you just have a few inches of water enter the boat until equilibrium is reached.
Dennis
jimh posted 05-29-2014 12:59 PM ET (US)
Rick--Here is an old story:
We took our 15-foot Boston Whaler, a 1976 SPORT 15, on a vacation and launched it at Elk Lake in northern Michigan. We were staying at a little motel on the lake shore that had boat docks. We left it at the dock for the night. That night it poured rain--I mean a deluge. In the morning I went to check on my new boat.
The Boston Whaler cockpit was full of water, because I had left the aft cockpit sump drain plug in place. Because of the tremendous reserve buoyancy of the Whaler, the boat was floating, but it was trimmed down by the stern. There was an awful lot of water in the boat--too much to want to bail out by hand.
I gingerly got on the boat, of course making it sink a little deeper, and pulled the cockpit sump drain plug. I stood ready to see if water was going to rise or going to go down. It was immediately obvious water was going out the drain. In a moment the cockpit was dry, and just a bit of water remained in the sump.
At the next slip there was a 17-foot runabout with a sterndrive. That boat had collected so much rain that it had put its transom under water. The leg of the sterndrive was probably on the bottom, and was liekly holding the boat from sinking more. The dock lines were keeping it from capsizing. The sterndrive's engine was deeply immersed in water. A big pump would be needed to all that water out, and I had my doubts about the engine starting and running.
It was there that my appreciation for the wisdom of the design of the Boston Whaler began to grow. And after that, I always left out the sump drain plug if the boat was spending the night in the water.
RickCFL posted 05-29-2014 02:28 PM ET (US)
Good story. No plug. It will be tested and proven with our FL summer storms.
jhomeist posted 05-29-2014 03:36 PM ET (US)
I have a 1970 16.7 with a Bearcat 55 hp on the back, and mahogany RPS and console. The battery also sits in the stern. With this setup, when you pull the plug water fills the sump and barely covers the floor in the back of the boat about up to the RPS. This presents a problem to leave the plug out long term beacuse the mahogany is sitting in water. The situation will depend on the weight of the outboard/battery/etc in the back of the boat. A couple years later the floor was "raised" so that it was above waterline to solve that problem when the plug is removed, but I don't remember what year.
contender posted 05-29-2014 07:58 PM ET (US)
Rick if you feel worried about the plug put one on the outside and one in the inside. If done (put in place) correctly neither of the plugs should leak
deepwater posted 05-29-2014 11:38 PM ET (US)
You can also load some weight in the bow,,That should raise the stern a few inches
Ridge Runner posted 05-29-2014 11:59 PM ET (US)
My Conquest 285 used a pressure-fit rubber drain plug. In 2002 when the boat was new I always wondered if it was one of the most expensive boats on the market that used a $2.00 drain plug.
RickCFL posted 05-30-2014 08:48 AM ET (US)
Good points all; thank you. I am making plank type bench seats that run across the boat and are located on either side of the console. I also hope to have the battery under the console; the 12gallon gas tank under the rear bench seat; and most likely at this point the Merc BF 60hp (most affordable motor in my area). Thinking all of this is a pretty even distribution.
I will test the boat without the plug and go from there. If I don't like the water level I will plug her both inside and out.
Thanks to all on this site with your great advice.
40hrs into project. Antifouling going on this weekend; then flip her back over and put her back on the trailer. Going to launch her over the next 2 weeks to get her out of the yard. I will then start building the seats and install the console while she is in the water. I can do the work off the boat and then just install each item. My 11 and 12 yr old boys are getting very excited with the project. Trying to keep them grounded at the same time and having them help where it is safe (non-toxic work). They each used their money to buy the decals and can't wait to install them. I have learned an awful lot from this project.
I think my local fiberglass store guy who has been helping me along the way said it best. I asked if this project was difficult; he said "are you stubborn"? I replied "my wife says I can be a stubborn ars pretty often". He said "great, then you will do fine and finish it". Here is to finishing the boat!
Tom W Clark posted 05-30-2014 09:01 AM ET (US)
Do not plug inside and out. Just put the plug in form the inside, that way you can reach it when you need to. That is how it has been done for the last 60+ years. It will not fall out.
Without the plug, a 16'-7" Whaler will probably have an inch or two of water above the floor is this hull is rigged as described.
swebre posted 05-30-2014 03:07 PM ET (US)
Hey Rick,
FWIW, our 15' w/ a 70 hp went "plugless" every week in FLA for 18 years moored out behind a rented house on Pensacola Sound. Water stayed in the plug well unless someone was in it. I'd put the plug in only when we had a load and planned to be off step for awhile.
You don't mention which hull you have but your results should be the same if it's a Whaler.
It's also a great feeling to see your toy happily riding out a nasty squall while others are worrying about bilge pumps, batteries and covers.

swist posted 05-31-2014 08:53 AM ET (US)
I've tried it both ways. I am on a mooring in saltwater. It is nice not to be dependent on bilge pumps, but I found I got more than a little water in a 170 Montauk, it went about halfway to the RPS. This may be either because the newer models are heavier, or the fact that I have a lot of stuff on the boat.
In my case, it made it difficult to store anything in the rear because it would sit in saltwater.
Also saltwater from a tidal cove isn't the best thing to have sitting in your boat - you get salt deposits, other crud, and even marine life (shrimp etc!)
I would think the story might be quite different for boats moored in clean fresh water, as many of the previous comments attest to.
swist posted 05-31-2014 08:56 AM ET (US)
And in response to the original topic, those rubber plugs that expand when you turn the widget on the outside are really pretty good. If you tighten it securely, that plug is never going anywhere.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Drains: Change Plug to Threaded Type from Pressure Fit
RickCFL	posted 05-29-2014 12:04 PM ET (US) Has anyone ever changed the screw drain plug on the drain tube on the hull to a female-male [threaded] brass that you tighten and can put on an adjustable wrench? I will be leaving the boat in the water and don't really want to leave the rubber plug with twist type or expanding type plug in there all the time.
Tom W Clark	posted 05-29-2014 12:10 PM ET (US) quote: I will be leaving the boat in the water and don't really want to leave the rubber plug with twist type or expanding type plug in there all the time. Why not?
RickCFL	posted 05-29-2014 12:25 PM ET (US) [The twist or expanding type plug for a through-hull drain] doesn't feel like a more permanent plug to me. I never really have had any boat that didn't have a permanent screw type plug. Not that it could happen, but, if the rubber screw type fell out, what would happen? The weight of the motor would bring in water but only to fill up a small amount in the rigging tube? No higher water? I am going to have a bilge pump installed, while leaving the plug in all the time, also.
2manyboats	posted 05-29-2014 12:40 PM ET (US) If you are worried about the plug falling out, put one on the inside too.
jimh	posted 05-29-2014 12:42 PM ET (US) The through-hull drains on most classic Boston Whaler boats are usually recommended to be left open if the boat is to be left in the water and unattended for long periods of time. See the owner's manual recommendation from Boston Whaler at http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/operations. html#selfBailing The pressure-fit drain plugs don't just pop out, in my experience. If they're left in place for a while, than can require quite a bit of effort to remove them. I usually lubricate the rubber a bit with vaseline before I put them in place so they won't be so stuck.
RickCFL	posted 05-29-2014 12:47 PM ET (US) Interesting Jim. I have the 16.7 1975 smirkless. I assume same deal; water will go in and out on its own. No need for a bilge pump then I assume also? One way to test it. I will launch her without the plug to confirm how much water comes in. I can just as quickly put the plug in if I don't like it. Thanks
DVollrath	posted 05-29-2014 12:50 PM ET (US) If you are putting the plug into the tube on the outside of the boat, it won't fall out due to the pressure of the water trying to get in. Having it on the inside seems better at any rate, as you can open it under way to lose water more quickly. I think the plugs are pretty simple and reliable, and as you point out in the unlikely event of failure you just have a few inches of water enter the boat until equilibrium is reached. Dennis
jimh	posted 05-29-2014 12:59 PM ET (US) Rick--Here is an old story: We took our 15-foot Boston Whaler, a 1976 SPORT 15, on a vacation and launched it at Elk Lake in northern Michigan. We were staying at a little motel on the lake shore that had boat docks. We left it at the dock for the night. That night it poured rain--I mean a deluge. In the morning I went to check on my new boat. The Boston Whaler cockpit was full of water, because I had left the aft cockpit sump drain plug in place. Because of the tremendous reserve buoyancy of the Whaler, the boat was floating, but it was trimmed down by the stern. There was an awful lot of water in the boat--too much to want to bail out by hand. I gingerly got on the boat, of course making it sink a little deeper, and pulled the cockpit sump drain plug. I stood ready to see if water was going to rise or going to go down. It was immediately obvious water was going out the drain. In a moment the cockpit was dry, and just a bit of water remained in the sump. At the next slip there was a 17-foot runabout with a sterndrive. That boat had collected so much rain that it had put its transom under water. The leg of the sterndrive was probably on the bottom, and was liekly holding the boat from sinking more. The dock lines were keeping it from capsizing. The sterndrive's engine was deeply immersed in water. A big pump would be needed to all that water out, and I had my doubts about the engine starting and running. It was there that my appreciation for the wisdom of the design of the Boston Whaler began to grow. And after that, I always left out the sump drain plug if the boat was spending the night in the water.
RickCFL	posted 05-29-2014 02:28 PM ET (US) Good story. No plug. It will be tested and proven with our FL summer storms.
jhomeist	posted 05-29-2014 03:36 PM ET (US) I have a 1970 16.7 with a Bearcat 55 hp on the back, and mahogany RPS and console. The battery also sits in the stern. With this setup, when you pull the plug water fills the sump and barely covers the floor in the back of the boat about up to the RPS. This presents a problem to leave the plug out long term beacuse the mahogany is sitting in water. The situation will depend on the weight of the outboard/battery/etc in the back of the boat. A couple years later the floor was "raised" so that it was above waterline to solve that problem when the plug is removed, but I don't remember what year.
contender	posted 05-29-2014 07:58 PM ET (US) Rick if you feel worried about the plug put one on the outside and one in the inside. If done (put in place) correctly neither of the plugs should leak
deepwater	posted 05-29-2014 11:38 PM ET (US) You can also load some weight in the bow,,That should raise the stern a few inches
Ridge Runner	posted 05-29-2014 11:59 PM ET (US) My Conquest 285 used a pressure-fit rubber drain plug. In 2002 when the boat was new I always wondered if it was one of the most expensive boats on the market that used a $2.00 drain plug.
RickCFL	posted 05-30-2014 08:48 AM ET (US) Good points all; thank you. I am making plank type bench seats that run across the boat and are located on either side of the console. I also hope to have the battery under the console; the 12gallon gas tank under the rear bench seat; and most likely at this point the Merc BF 60hp (most affordable motor in my area). Thinking all of this is a pretty even distribution. I will test the boat without the plug and go from there. If I don't like the water level I will plug her both inside and out. Thanks to all on this site with your great advice. 40hrs into project. Antifouling going on this weekend; then flip her back over and put her back on the trailer. Going to launch her over the next 2 weeks to get her out of the yard. I will then start building the seats and install the console while she is in the water. I can do the work off the boat and then just install each item. My 11 and 12 yr old boys are getting very excited with the project. Trying to keep them grounded at the same time and having them help where it is safe (non-toxic work). They each used their money to buy the decals and can't wait to install them. I have learned an awful lot from this project. I think my local fiberglass store guy who has been helping me along the way said it best. I asked if this project was difficult; he said "are you stubborn"? I replied "my wife says I can be a stubborn ars pretty often". He said "great, then you will do fine and finish it". Here is to finishing the boat!
Tom W Clark	posted 05-30-2014 09:01 AM ET (US) Do not plug inside and out. Just put the plug in form the inside, that way you can reach it when you need to. That is how it has been done for the last 60+ years. It will not fall out. Without the plug, a 16'-7" Whaler will probably have an inch or two of water above the floor is this hull is rigged as described.
swebre	posted 05-30-2014 03:07 PM ET (US) Hey Rick, FWIW, our 15' w/ a 70 hp went "plugless" every week in FLA for 18 years moored out behind a rented house on Pensacola Sound. Water stayed in the plug well unless someone was in it. I'd put the plug in only when we had a load and planned to be off step for awhile. You don't mention which hull you have but your results should be the same if it's a Whaler. It's also a great feeling to see your toy happily riding out a nasty squall while others are worrying about bilge pumps, batteries and covers.
swist	posted 05-31-2014 08:53 AM ET (US) I've tried it both ways. I am on a mooring in saltwater. It is nice not to be dependent on bilge pumps, but I found I got more than a little water in a 170 Montauk, it went about halfway to the RPS. This may be either because the newer models are heavier, or the fact that I have a lot of stuff on the boat. In my case, it made it difficult to store anything in the rear because it would sit in saltwater. Also saltwater from a tidal cove isn't the best thing to have sitting in your boat - you get salt deposits, other crud, and even marine life (shrimp etc!) I would think the story might be quite different for boats moored in clean fresh water, as many of the previous comments attest to.
swist	posted 05-31-2014 08:56 AM ET (US) And in response to the original topic, those rubber plugs that expand when you turn the widget on the outside are really pretty good. If you tighten it securely, that plug is never going anywhere.