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Author Topic:   Raise Motor

mkelly posted 06-02-2014 07:57 PM ET (US)
We've talked at length about the trailer jack method to raise the engine on the transom, I'm going for it this weekend but have read that 40 ft/lbs torque is required & I don't have a meter. Very firm set with a 12 or 18" torque wrench should do it, I gather? It's a 2.6L 200 HP E-TEC on 22' Sportcraft.
deepwater posted 06-03-2014 02:34 AM ET (US)
mkelly,,I think the use of the jack is to move the motor up a noch or 2 on the mounting plate,,,no tourk is needed,,just something to carry the weight of the motor so the pin can be pulled
jimh posted 06-05-2014 01:10 AM ET (US)
When you tighten the engine mounting bolts, don't torque them down so much that you crush or compress the transom.
jstarzy posted 06-06-2014 09:05 AM ET (US)
I did this procedure last season on my Montauk with a 90HP Yamaha 90 2 stroke. It goes fairly smoothly. Position the skeg on a piece of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. Remove the bolts completely that fit into the notched holed on the transom bracket. Loosen the bolts that fit in the slotted holes on the transom bracket. Slowly crank the tongue jack to the position you'd like to set the motor height to.
Now the hard part...be mindful of breaking the sealant around the bolts and at the transom penetrations. It will be possible to reseal the top bolts (with 3M 5200 or equivalent)fairly easily as the bracket will be released from the top of the transom. However, the bottom bolts need to be loose but stay in place fairly close to the bracket and transom to still support the motor, at least for the way my helper and I did our work. Try not to break that seal or have a way to do a full re-seal once the motor is in place.
Torque up all the bolts/nuts and double lock nuts per the rigging spec for your motor. Allow enough time for the sealant to cure. Launch and do the sea trial.
I lifted up the 90 Yamaha by 2 holes, placing the top bolts in the 3rd hole from the top of the bracket. Tom Clarke was very helpful with offering a height recommendation. The anti-ventilation plate is now correctly sitting at the waterline at speed, however, I did not achieve any appreciable increase in speed per the GPS. My wide open 5300 RPM speed with small load and 1 person in the Whaler is still about 37 MPH trimmed out. The hull is bottom painted, though. Maybe I picked up 1 MPH from previous setting of the first hole from top of the bracket. I was hoping to achieve an increase of 3-4 MPH to get to 40 MPH or so as I have read is possible from others with the identical set up.
Hope this helps....and that you have a smooth time doing this work.
Jim S.
Tom Hemphill posted 06-06-2014 08:16 PM ET (US)
I think the original poster's question was about how to correctly tighten his motor's mounting bolts without a way of measuring the torque he is applying. I had the same dilemma recently when I remounted my 90-HP E-TEC (which also specifies 40 ft. lbs.) and I couldn't locate my torque wrench. I just positioned my hand 12 inches out on an 18 inch breaker bar and applied what I thought was 40 lbs. of force.
As jimh points out, the biggest risk is tightening too much. I recommend using using new hardware, or at least new lock nuts.
mkelly posted 06-06-2014 10:03 PM ET (US)
You're spot on Tom, & that's about what I figured. Very firm but not over tighten to compromise bolts, nuts, bracket. Thx

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Author	Topic: Raise Motor
mkelly	posted 06-02-2014 07:57 PM ET (US) We've talked at length about the trailer jack method to raise the engine on the transom, I'm going for it this weekend but have read that 40 ft/lbs torque is required & I don't have a meter. Very firm set with a 12 or 18" torque wrench should do it, I gather? It's a 2.6L 200 HP E-TEC on 22' Sportcraft.
deepwater	posted 06-03-2014 02:34 AM ET (US) mkelly,,I think the use of the jack is to move the motor up a noch or 2 on the mounting plate,,,no tourk is needed,,just something to carry the weight of the motor so the pin can be pulled
jimh	posted 06-05-2014 01:10 AM ET (US) When you tighten the engine mounting bolts, don't torque them down so much that you crush or compress the transom.
jstarzy	posted 06-06-2014 09:05 AM ET (US) I did this procedure last season on my Montauk with a 90HP Yamaha 90 2 stroke. It goes fairly smoothly. Position the skeg on a piece of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. Remove the bolts completely that fit into the notched holed on the transom bracket. Loosen the bolts that fit in the slotted holes on the transom bracket. Slowly crank the tongue jack to the position you'd like to set the motor height to. Now the hard part...be mindful of breaking the sealant around the bolts and at the transom penetrations. It will be possible to reseal the top bolts (with 3M 5200 or equivalent)fairly easily as the bracket will be released from the top of the transom. However, the bottom bolts need to be loose but stay in place fairly close to the bracket and transom to still support the motor, at least for the way my helper and I did our work. Try not to break that seal or have a way to do a full re-seal once the motor is in place. Torque up all the bolts/nuts and double lock nuts per the rigging spec for your motor. Allow enough time for the sealant to cure. Launch and do the sea trial. I lifted up the 90 Yamaha by 2 holes, placing the top bolts in the 3rd hole from the top of the bracket. Tom Clarke was very helpful with offering a height recommendation. The anti-ventilation plate is now correctly sitting at the waterline at speed, however, I did not achieve any appreciable increase in speed per the GPS. My wide open 5300 RPM speed with small load and 1 person in the Whaler is still about 37 MPH trimmed out. The hull is bottom painted, though. Maybe I picked up 1 MPH from previous setting of the first hole from top of the bracket. I was hoping to achieve an increase of 3-4 MPH to get to 40 MPH or so as I have read is possible from others with the identical set up. Hope this helps....and that you have a smooth time doing this work. Jim S.
Tom Hemphill	posted 06-06-2014 08:16 PM ET (US) I think the original poster's question was about how to correctly tighten his motor's mounting bolts without a way of measuring the torque he is applying. I had the same dilemma recently when I remounted my 90-HP E-TEC (which also specifies 40 ft. lbs.) and I couldn't locate my torque wrench. I just positioned my hand 12 inches out on an 18 inch breaker bar and applied what I thought was 40 lbs. of force. As jimh points out, the biggest risk is tightening too much. I recommend using using new hardware, or at least new lock nuts.
mkelly	posted 06-06-2014 10:03 PM ET (US) You're spot on Tom, & that's about what I figured. Very firm but not over tighten to compromise bolts, nuts, bracket. Thx