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Author Topic:   Purging Sea Star Steering

jason78 posted 07-09-2014 09:52 PM ET (US)
I just replaced the seals on my Sea Star single front mount steering system, which was an absolute nightmare. The system had some air in it so I followed the instructions to purge the system per the manual. Aside from this being a royal pain in the rear end and a mess, I don't think I got all the air out. When I look down in the helm reservoir, I see the fluid disappear then run back out when turning the wheel.
When I was following the purging procedure, I was unable to get the ram to move until the bleeder valve was closed. The instructions say you are to hold the ram while turning wheel to push out the air and fluid then let go and as the ram starts moving, close the valve. Does not matter if I hold the ram or not, it does not move until the valve is closed.
Any ideas or suggestions here? The bleeder valves are under the powerhead and almost impossible to get access to. This whole setup is a bad design from a maintenance standpoint, at least in my opinion but regardless I am stuck with it and would appreciate any help!
Thanks
Jason
padrefigure posted 07-10-2014 09:33 AM ET (US)
I attached clear vinyl hoses to the bleeder valves on the steering cylinder and used the special cap for the quart bottle of Sea star fluid. This cap has a clear tube that threads into the helm pump. I cut a big hole in the bottom of an extra Sea Star fluid bottle and then taped it upside down to the grab rail around the windshield on my console. Then I filled the console bottle with fluid and turned lock to lock back and forth. To begin with, you will be pushing fluid into the lines. I turned the wheel all the way to one side and then cracked the valve. Fluid and air will be pushed out. Put the clear tube in a jar or some other container you can see the fluid in. Keep turning the helm, pumping more fluid down the line. Watch your reservoir taped to the rail and don't let it run dry. When the jar at the steering cylinder is close to getting full, I close the check valve and pour the fluid from the jar into my reservoir on the rail at the helm. I repeated this about a dozen times in each direction and gradually pumped out all of the air in the system. You could also take it to a shop and pay about $125 for them to do the same thing with a power pump.
conch posted 07-10-2014 10:40 AM ET (US)
In addition to what was explained here I fill the catch bottle at the cylinders with an inch or two of new fluid to prevent air going back into the cylinder. I also added 90 deg fittings to the bleeders to make access easier. I have twin side mounted cylinders.
Chuck
jimh posted 07-10-2014 11:29 AM ET (US)
Purging air from a hydraulic system can be awkward. SeaStar provides instructions, which, if carefully followed, will accomplish the task. You may consume a fair amount of expensive hydraulic fluid in the process.
The last time my SeaStar hydraulic steering system was opened and needed the air purged from the pump, lines, and actuator, the purging was done with a power-bleeder system. SeaStar makes and sells this device, and many dealers who work on their systems will have one. It was very effective. My hydraulic steering never felt so tight and firm after the use of the power-bleeder to purge the air.
I think that over time any air in the lines will tend to work its way toward the pump, if the system is just left to sit and the pump is the highest point. Over a few weeks some air may work its way out, and the pump level will be lower.
Regarding how much fluid to have in the helm pump, be aware that this varies with temperature. If the helm pump level is filled on a cool day, there will be too much fluid for a very hot day in which the pump sits directly in sunlight. Eventually, the fluid escapes from the vented fill cap. After a few hot days, you will have the correct fluid level.
I think the power-bleeder attached to the system at the actuator end, and it pushes the new fluid into the system from that point, pushing the air toward the pump where it can escape.
In the absence of a power-bleeder, I think the system can still be purged of air if the manufacturer's directions are very carefully followed. Being cheap, I would try to recover any hydraulic fluid that is pushed out the bleed valves and retain it for possible use in the future. I don't think this is recommended, but if you are careful to avoid contamination of the purged fluid, it perhaps can retain some utility for future use.
contender posted 07-10-2014 12:05 PM ET (US)
Having a helping hand to do this is good. Per the instructions, I believe you have to give the helm 24-hours after the fill to check it again. This allows for all the little bubbles to make one big one and float to one position to be squeezed out.
jason78 posted 07-10-2014 02:05 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the help! I found a local shop with a Power Purge. THey said they would put the machine on it for a half-hour labor charge. I thought that was fair so I think I will probably go that route. I think the newer cylinders have the bleeder valves located in a different spot that makes the process easier.
picflight posted 07-14-2014 01:07 PM ET (US)
Perfect timing for this post. I replaced both the hydraulic lines on my boat over the winter and am in the process of picking a day with a helping hand to fill and purge the system.
jason78 posted 07-14-2014 01:45 PM ET (US)
I highly recommend finding someone with a Power Purge. Al local outboard shop charged me $50 and it feels great. Especially if you replaced lines you will have a lot of air to get out. I probably would have wasted $30 in fluid trying to keep up the purging myself.
tedious posted 07-14-2014 05:02 PM ET (US)
I did it myself. It came out fine, but was a messy pain in the neck. $50 is well worth it.
Tim
picflight posted 07-14-2014 06:20 PM ET (US)
Very true, worth the use of auto purge system. However, there is no one close by. I planned out a method of using clear tubes and run from both bleed nipples to the fill container above the helm recycling the fluid to avoid waste. This should make it a one person job and some clean up.

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Author	Topic: Purging Sea Star Steering
jason78	posted 07-09-2014 09:52 PM ET (US) I just replaced the seals on my Sea Star single front mount steering system, which was an absolute nightmare. The system had some air in it so I followed the instructions to purge the system per the manual. Aside from this being a royal pain in the rear end and a mess, I don't think I got all the air out. When I look down in the helm reservoir, I see the fluid disappear then run back out when turning the wheel. When I was following the purging procedure, I was unable to get the ram to move until the bleeder valve was closed. The instructions say you are to hold the ram while turning wheel to push out the air and fluid then let go and as the ram starts moving, close the valve. Does not matter if I hold the ram or not, it does not move until the valve is closed. Any ideas or suggestions here? The bleeder valves are under the powerhead and almost impossible to get access to. This whole setup is a bad design from a maintenance standpoint, at least in my opinion but regardless I am stuck with it and would appreciate any help! Thanks Jason
padrefigure	posted 07-10-2014 09:33 AM ET (US) I attached clear vinyl hoses to the bleeder valves on the steering cylinder and used the special cap for the quart bottle of Sea star fluid. This cap has a clear tube that threads into the helm pump. I cut a big hole in the bottom of an extra Sea Star fluid bottle and then taped it upside down to the grab rail around the windshield on my console. Then I filled the console bottle with fluid and turned lock to lock back and forth. To begin with, you will be pushing fluid into the lines. I turned the wheel all the way to one side and then cracked the valve. Fluid and air will be pushed out. Put the clear tube in a jar or some other container you can see the fluid in. Keep turning the helm, pumping more fluid down the line. Watch your reservoir taped to the rail and don't let it run dry. When the jar at the steering cylinder is close to getting full, I close the check valve and pour the fluid from the jar into my reservoir on the rail at the helm. I repeated this about a dozen times in each direction and gradually pumped out all of the air in the system. You could also take it to a shop and pay about $125 for them to do the same thing with a power pump.
conch	posted 07-10-2014 10:40 AM ET (US) In addition to what was explained here I fill the catch bottle at the cylinders with an inch or two of new fluid to prevent air going back into the cylinder. I also added 90 deg fittings to the bleeders to make access easier. I have twin side mounted cylinders. Chuck
jimh	posted 07-10-2014 11:29 AM ET (US) Purging air from a hydraulic system can be awkward. SeaStar provides instructions, which, if carefully followed, will accomplish the task. You may consume a fair amount of expensive hydraulic fluid in the process. The last time my SeaStar hydraulic steering system was opened and needed the air purged from the pump, lines, and actuator, the purging was done with a power-bleeder system. SeaStar makes and sells this device, and many dealers who work on their systems will have one. It was very effective. My hydraulic steering never felt so tight and firm after the use of the power-bleeder to purge the air. I think that over time any air in the lines will tend to work its way toward the pump, if the system is just left to sit and the pump is the highest point. Over a few weeks some air may work its way out, and the pump level will be lower. Regarding how much fluid to have in the helm pump, be aware that this varies with temperature. If the helm pump level is filled on a cool day, there will be too much fluid for a very hot day in which the pump sits directly in sunlight. Eventually, the fluid escapes from the vented fill cap. After a few hot days, you will have the correct fluid level. I think the power-bleeder attached to the system at the actuator end, and it pushes the new fluid into the system from that point, pushing the air toward the pump where it can escape. In the absence of a power-bleeder, I think the system can still be purged of air if the manufacturer's directions are very carefully followed. Being cheap, I would try to recover any hydraulic fluid that is pushed out the bleed valves and retain it for possible use in the future. I don't think this is recommended, but if you are careful to avoid contamination of the purged fluid, it perhaps can retain some utility for future use.
contender	posted 07-10-2014 12:05 PM ET (US) Having a helping hand to do this is good. Per the instructions, I believe you have to give the helm 24-hours after the fill to check it again. This allows for all the little bubbles to make one big one and float to one position to be squeezed out.
jason78	posted 07-10-2014 02:05 PM ET (US) Thanks for all the help! I found a local shop with a Power Purge. THey said they would put the machine on it for a half-hour labor charge. I thought that was fair so I think I will probably go that route. I think the newer cylinders have the bleeder valves located in a different spot that makes the process easier.
picflight	posted 07-14-2014 01:07 PM ET (US) Perfect timing for this post. I replaced both the hydraulic lines on my boat over the winter and am in the process of picking a day with a helping hand to fill and purge the system.
jason78	posted 07-14-2014 01:45 PM ET (US) I highly recommend finding someone with a Power Purge. Al local outboard shop charged me $50 and it feels great. Especially if you replaced lines you will have a lot of air to get out. I probably would have wasted $30 in fluid trying to keep up the purging myself.
tedious	posted 07-14-2014 05:02 PM ET (US) I did it myself. It came out fine, but was a messy pain in the neck. $50 is well worth it. Tim
picflight	posted 07-14-2014 06:20 PM ET (US) Very true, worth the use of auto purge system. However, there is no one close by. I planned out a method of using clear tubes and run from both bleed nipples to the fill container above the helm recycling the fluid to avoid waste. This should make it a one person job and some clean up.