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Author
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Topic: 1995 Rage 14 Starter
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thomasrodco |
posted 07-12-2014 12:21 PM ET (US)
I have a 1995 Rage 14 with a 115 TJ, and an electrical problem I can't seem to solve: the engine will not start. I have 12-volts to the solenoid from the battery, and 12-Volts to the Yellow-Red wire at the first small post when it [possibly means the ignition key switch] is in the start position, as well as 12-Volts across the small posts to the black. But, I have nothing at the output of the solenoid, to the starter. I have gone through everything I can find without any progress. No clicking of the solenoid, nothing. Found an electrical test procedure from Whaler that ended with it saying the solenoid is bad, so I now have a brand new one, but still no power to the output of the solenoid. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get this thing started before summer is overAlso, with the key in the ON position, there is 12-Volts at both small posts on the solenoid, which doesn't seem to be correct. Isn't that only supposed to be momentary while in the Start position Is [the cause of the engine not starting] a ground problem? Also took out and checked the neutral safety switch, which Ohm'd out fine, and tried to start with the switch out where I could make sure it wasn't depressed. Still no power to starter.
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ALAN G
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posted 07-12-2014 02:28 PM ET (US)
Thomas, I don't have a schematic electrical diagram of the circuits, but here are a couple things to try. Since you know how to remove the solenoid and replace it with a new one, you should bench test both of them. That is take them out of the boat and apply 12-Volts to the terminal which activates the solenoid while also grounding the solenoid to complete the electrical circuit (on many solenoids, ground is through the mounting bolts, but you should check for a separate ground wire). In this test there is no need to put 12 volts to the main battery/start connection because you are just looking to see if the solenoid will operate. An audible click should be heard/felt in the solenoid when completing this start circuit, and continuity should exist between the two large terminals (battery connection and starting motor connection). If you can't get the solenoids to operate on the bench, then there is no way they will work on the engine. If they do operate properly in the bench test, then you have an issue in the boat wiring, on either the 12volt side or the grounding side. In this case, you will need to run down all the connections & wires and make sure they are clean/tight and making good contact. Remember, you can have poor connections and still read 12 volts in a no amperage condition...but that poor connection won't pass the amperage needed under load.Some solenoids do have terminals with 12 volts in the ignition on position, but these don't function with the start solenoid, they normally power other items or accessories when the key is "on" or "run". Al |
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jimh
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posted 07-12-2014 02:42 PM ET (US)
Electrical circuitry can't get much simpler than a relay or solenoid. If there is no audible click indicating the solenoid coil has operated when you move the IGN key switch to START from RUN, but you measure 12-Volts on the relay coil "at both small posts on the solenoid" the most likely cause is lack of a return to battery negative for the coil current. |
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thomasrodco
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posted 07-12-2014 04:42 PM ET (US)
Ok, so do you have any kind of suspicion where my lack of ground might be? I'm no electrical engineer, but I'm usually pretty good at tracking down this type of stuff, but I can't seem to find the culprit this time.. thanks |
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thomasrodco
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posted 07-12-2014 05:29 PM ET (US)
Wouldn't the starter being bolted to the block be the return for the ground? |
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thomasrodco
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posted 07-13-2014 03:21 PM ET (US)
Fixed it! Broken ground wire in harness. Running great now! |