Control cables for 2003 Mercury 115 Fourstroke

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Author Topic:   Control cables for 2003 Mercury 115 Fourstroke

Marlin posted 07-22-2014 03:42 PM ET (US)
Hi folks,
I just replaced my very stiff cable steering with a Baystar hydraulic system. My first impression was "Wow, this steering is so smooth!" My second impression was "Wow, I didn't realize how ridiculously stiff this throttle is!" So now it's time to get back into the rigging tunnel and replace the shift and throttle cables.
What kind of cables do I need for a 2003 Mercury 115 EFI Fourstroke? There are a bewildering number of different Mercury cables -- 3300, 3600 (looks kind of right), Gen 2 (also looks kind of right), 4300, 6400, etc. Most of the descriptions for the Gen 2 say "2003 and newer", but I'd like to hear for sure. The boat is a 2003 160 Dauntless.
The whalerparts.com diagram lists 2 14-foot cables, but isn't specific about what kind. There's a photo of the shifter, in case that matters, at http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/GoldenDaze/GoldenDaze/Console/ console1.jpg
-Bob
sosmerc posted 07-23-2014 12:33 AM ET (US)
The picture confirms it is a Mercury/Quicksilver control, but whether it is Gen 1 or Gen II can only be determined by looking at the cable ends at the control.
You may also want to disconnect the cable from the engine and then see if the control action is still what you consider to be way to stiff. (the problem could be at the engine itself...you could manual operate the throttle and shift back at the engine with the engine running to see what you think about the required effort. Often, a stiff shift linkage or too high an idle speed can make a hugh difference in how your control operates. What I am trying to say is that sometimes the issue is not the cable condition alone, but a combination of factors that need attention).
Marlin posted 07-23-2014 07:11 AM ET (US)
Thanks for your input! I guess I'll have to pull it apart to check. Not a big deal, but it delays the job a bit.
I realize that there could be more to it than the cables, but after 13 years I'm willing to replace the cables just on general principles, and lube the rest of the system while I'm at it.
-Bob
Marlin posted 07-30-2014 08:57 AM ET (US)
Well, sosmerc nailed this one. When I pulled everything apart, I found that the cables were in perfect condition with very little friction. The grease in the control head had dried out somewhat, so a good cleaning and re-greasing helped.
The big problem, however, was at the engine. The throttle linkage assembly seems needlessly complex, with several conversions between linear and rotary motion and a whole series of bellcranks. There's a cam driven (indirectly) by the throttle cable that in turn controls the pushrod to the throttle arm, and this cam and its follower were completely un-greased. A bit of cleanup and re-greasing there, and now the throttle cable is as good as new.
-Bob

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Author	Topic: Control cables for 2003 Mercury 115 Fourstroke
Marlin	posted 07-22-2014 03:42 PM ET (US) Hi folks, I just replaced my very stiff cable steering with a Baystar hydraulic system. My first impression was "Wow, this steering is so smooth!" My second impression was "Wow, I didn't realize how ridiculously stiff this throttle is!" So now it's time to get back into the rigging tunnel and replace the shift and throttle cables. What kind of cables do I need for a 2003 Mercury 115 EFI Fourstroke? There are a bewildering number of different Mercury cables -- 3300, 3600 (looks kind of right), Gen 2 (also looks kind of right), 4300, 6400, etc. Most of the descriptions for the Gen 2 say "2003 and newer", but I'd like to hear for sure. The boat is a 2003 160 Dauntless. The whalerparts.com diagram lists 2 14-foot cables, but isn't specific about what kind. There's a photo of the shifter, in case that matters, at http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/GoldenDaze/GoldenDaze/Console/ console1.jpg -Bob
sosmerc	posted 07-23-2014 12:33 AM ET (US) The picture confirms it is a Mercury/Quicksilver control, but whether it is Gen 1 or Gen II can only be determined by looking at the cable ends at the control. You may also want to disconnect the cable from the engine and then see if the control action is still what you consider to be way to stiff. (the problem could be at the engine itself...you could manual operate the throttle and shift back at the engine with the engine running to see what you think about the required effort. Often, a stiff shift linkage or too high an idle speed can make a hugh difference in how your control operates. What I am trying to say is that sometimes the issue is not the cable condition alone, but a combination of factors that need attention).
Marlin	posted 07-23-2014 07:11 AM ET (US) Thanks for your input! I guess I'll have to pull it apart to check. Not a big deal, but it delays the job a bit. I realize that there could be more to it than the cables, but after 13 years I'm willing to replace the cables just on general principles, and lube the rest of the system while I'm at it. -Bob
Marlin	posted 07-30-2014 08:57 AM ET (US) Well, sosmerc nailed this one. When I pulled everything apart, I found that the cables were in perfect condition with very little friction. The grease in the control head had dried out somewhat, so a good cleaning and re-greasing helped. The big problem, however, was at the engine. The throttle linkage assembly seems needlessly complex, with several conversions between linear and rotary motion and a whole series of bellcranks. There's a cam driven (indirectly) by the throttle cable that in turn controls the pushrod to the throttle arm, and this cam and its follower were completely un-greased. A bit of cleanup and re-greasing there, and now the throttle cable is as good as new. -Bob