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Author Topic:   Fouling plugs, E200 TXENE

JMARTIN posted 07-30-2014 01:24 PM ET (US)
1992 Evinrude 200 with 600 hours, the VRO is working, power pack replaced a couple of years ago, using Champion recommended plugs.
I am not even getting a year out of my plugs before one or more fouls. I just replaced the plugs and I am running normal and have decided to try synthetic oil. One of the spring clips came off on the plug end. I put it back on but noticed that there is not the 1/8 inch of wire exposed at the end of the lead like the installation instructions show. I put the spring clip back in its original location and it seems a little "loose".
Should I replace the wire? Should I put the spring clip in another location? Maybe I am not getting full spark and that is why I am not getting plug life? Maybe my VRO is staring to over oil?
John
jimh posted 07-31-2014 01:34 AM ET (US)
John--I used to have a E225TXENR engine. I found that the spark plug gap would erode rapidly, and I needed to check the gap spacing about once per season to make sure it had not become too wide.
The spark plug leads have a copper or silver wire in the center of the rubber insulation. That should be making a good electrical contact with the springy material that connects to the electrode top on the plug insulator. If the spark has to jump across an air gap in the plug connection between wire and insulator-electrode, the spark in the combustion chamber will not be as strong as it should be. This may be a cause of fouled plugs.
Also, try running a good ash-less two-cycle oil, like Evinrude XD50. That may help avoid plug fouling.
I found the plugs would load up with some soot after any sort of idle speed running. In order to check the color of the insulator around the electrode in the combustion chamber, I used to run the engine at high throttle with the boat on plane for a few minutes. Then I just just shut off the engine, coast to a stop, and pull the plugs to inspect them. If I just idle a moment or two, the plugs would get sooty, and you could not read the insulator color.
JMARTIN posted 07-31-2014 05:30 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jim, I will replace the wire, check my gaps more often, and use an ashless oil. I towed another boat for about 2 hours and went shrimp pot pulling this year already. Lots and lots of idle time.
John
jimh posted 08-07-2014 04:11 PM ET (US)
Also check that the wire to the engine spark module--the Power Pack--that connects to a temperature sensor has not come loose. The Power Pack has an input lead that comes from a thermo-switch. When the engine block reaches a certain temperature, the Power Pack concludes the engine has warmed up, and the ignition timing and idle speed change from the cold start settings. If this sensor lead comes loose, the engine runs all the time in the cold start settings, and this may affect how the spark plugs fire.
JMARTIN posted 08-08-2014 03:34 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the further information. The engine is working correctly and dropping down out of cold starting mode.
John

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Author	Topic: Fouling plugs, E200 TXENE
JMARTIN	posted 07-30-2014 01:24 PM ET (US) 1992 Evinrude 200 with 600 hours, the VRO is working, power pack replaced a couple of years ago, using Champion recommended plugs. I am not even getting a year out of my plugs before one or more fouls. I just replaced the plugs and I am running normal and have decided to try synthetic oil. One of the spring clips came off on the plug end. I put it back on but noticed that there is not the 1/8 inch of wire exposed at the end of the lead like the installation instructions show. I put the spring clip back in its original location and it seems a little "loose". Should I replace the wire? Should I put the spring clip in another location? Maybe I am not getting full spark and that is why I am not getting plug life? Maybe my VRO is staring to over oil? John
jimh	posted 07-31-2014 01:34 AM ET (US) John--I used to have a E225TXENR engine. I found that the spark plug gap would erode rapidly, and I needed to check the gap spacing about once per season to make sure it had not become too wide. The spark plug leads have a copper or silver wire in the center of the rubber insulation. That should be making a good electrical contact with the springy material that connects to the electrode top on the plug insulator. If the spark has to jump across an air gap in the plug connection between wire and insulator-electrode, the spark in the combustion chamber will not be as strong as it should be. This may be a cause of fouled plugs. Also, try running a good ash-less two-cycle oil, like Evinrude XD50. That may help avoid plug fouling. I found the plugs would load up with some soot after any sort of idle speed running. In order to check the color of the insulator around the electrode in the combustion chamber, I used to run the engine at high throttle with the boat on plane for a few minutes. Then I just just shut off the engine, coast to a stop, and pull the plugs to inspect them. If I just idle a moment or two, the plugs would get sooty, and you could not read the insulator color.
JMARTIN	posted 07-31-2014 05:30 PM ET (US) Thanks Jim, I will replace the wire, check my gaps more often, and use an ashless oil. I towed another boat for about 2 hours and went shrimp pot pulling this year already. Lots and lots of idle time. John
jimh	posted 08-07-2014 04:11 PM ET (US) Also check that the wire to the engine spark module--the Power Pack--that connects to a temperature sensor has not come loose. The Power Pack has an input lead that comes from a thermo-switch. When the engine block reaches a certain temperature, the Power Pack concludes the engine has warmed up, and the ignition timing and idle speed change from the cold start settings. If this sensor lead comes loose, the engine runs all the time in the cold start settings, and this may affect how the spark plugs fire.
JMARTIN	posted 08-08-2014 03:34 PM ET (US) Thanks for the further information. The engine is working correctly and dropping down out of cold starting mode. John