Non wood Replacement bunks for Karavan trailer Montauk 170

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Author Topic:   Non wood Replacement bunks for Karavan trailer Montauk 170

surfkast posted 08-25-2014 10:57 PM ET (US)
Hi All,
It's time to replace my bunks on my factory 2006 Karavan trailer for the Montauk 170. Turns out I have one of the bunks broken in half in the middle with the carpet holding it together. Also, the zinc bunk brackets are badly rusted and need to be replaced.
Does anyone have experience with these artificial bunks?
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html
I like the idea in theory and it would be nice to have a little more slip while launching and retrieving solo, although the carpeted bunks have been fine.
I might be concerned there's too much 'slip' in the bunks. Any thoughts?
Thanks

dfmcintyre posted 08-27-2014 09:34 PM ET (US)
And the difference between their product and Trex (or one of the similar materials available at your local Home Depot or Lowes) is.....?
Cost difference?
You can never have enough slip, btw...
Regards - Don
wezie posted 08-28-2014 12:50 PM ET (US)
Trex has little longitudinal strength.
Center to center across beams, it will span less distance than wood.
seems to me that results in more point pressure over the brackets. That is the last thing a whaler needs.
I do not know about the artificial material for bunks, but unless they are stiffer than wood, I would continue to use wood for bunks.
Good Luck!
EJO posted 08-28-2014 02:38 PM ET (US)
"I do not know about the artificial material for bunks, but unless they are stiffer than wood, I would continue to use wood for bunks."
Make in treated (wolmanized) wood with new indoor/outdoor carpet.
dfmcintyre posted 08-28-2014 05:28 PM ET (US)
One thought about wood; if you have some epoxy, you could coat the planks + any drill holes, and let dry. Then attach the carpet. Might make them last longer.
As an experiment, just epoxy one bunk and leave the other (new wood) bunk uncoated. Might be interesting to determine how long each lasts.
Regards - Don
Jefecinco posted 08-28-2014 06:55 PM ET (US)
I know nothing about the wood substitutes other than that those made up from recycled plastic trash or shopping bags warp considerably when used as park type benches and as boardwalks.
My first choice for replacement trailer bunks is cypress lumber. I would cover them with bunk carpet on the top, sides and aft ends. I like a slight downward taper on the top of the after ends of the bunks to reduce the pressure point on the bunk ends when retrieving or launching. Cypress is naturally rot and insect resistant.
Butch
tedious posted 08-29-2014 08:19 AM ET (US)
It's not Trex or any of the other plastic construction products. From the product website the bunks are HDPE, which is very stiff and very slippery. It's what plastic cutting boards are made of - ever try to bend one of those? Seems like it would be a great material for trailer bunks.
Tim
Plotman posted 08-29-2014 03:24 PM ET (US)
Using HDPE for bunks does not seem like a good idea to me.
If you want slick, then get new PT wood bunks, and then apply thin (thickness) strips of HDPE on top using countersunk screws.
You get the strength of wood, and the slickness of HDPE.
Going to be way cheaper and likely a lot stronger than all HDPE bunks.
With no carpet to hold moisture, good PT will last as long as the trailer.
Jefecinco posted 08-29-2014 07:55 PM ET (US)
HDPE in long lengths will warp from excessive heat. It will also break rather than bend. Thin pieces atop bunks are reputed to work well as Plotman mentioned.
Butch
tedious posted 08-30-2014 07:26 AM ET (US)
Really? What temperature will cause it to warp?
Jefecinco posted 08-30-2014 09:59 AM ET (US)
Tedious,
I don't know at what temperature the material used for cutting boards warps. I have one that is warped. It lives outdoors on my fileting table. Temperatures in my back yard have probably reached about 105 F or so.
I've seen aluminum bunks capped with slicks and I've seen wooden bunks with and without slicks. I've not yet seen any plastic bunks. We have a lot of trailer boats along the Central Gulf Coast and the Mobile Bay area. Probably 99% of the trailers use wooden bunks.
I may spend my hard-to-come-by money to experiment with plastic bunks for my small trailer but I find it difficult to recommend an unknown course of action to someone.
If you are sure there is a bunk material superior to cypress wood considering all the variables I would welcome the knowledge.
Butch
contender posted 08-31-2014 03:43 PM ET (US)
I purchase and nice 4x4 pressure treated wood, Cut it in 1/2 for each side, then I cut it down to a true 2.5 inches. I then purchase 2 peices of star board 1 inch thick 4 ft long by 3.5 inches. I then counter sunk stove bolts about every 8 inches apart and bolted it throught the wood, Now my whaler sits on two big bunks (more support) on starboard (does not hurt the hull) and when you launch the boat it slides right off, No more carpet coming apart, no more reparing the bunks....
Marsh posted 09-03-2014 07:41 PM ET (US)
I went through a similar exercise earlier this spring when bunks needed replacing on my PWC trailer. After much research, I finally took the easy way: treated 2x4s and in/outdoor carpet from Lowe'sDepot, galvanized fittings and screws from Ace, and SS staples for carpet from WalMart. Probably cost me less than $40 bucks for the whole deal. Carpet was $8 or so, 2x4s were $10, staples were $15... So, yes, probably$30-$35. Of course, I only launch once in the spring, then retrieve once in the fall, so slipperiness is of little consequence.
surfkast posted 09-30-2014 12:15 AM ET (US)
So I replaced the bunks this weekend. I went the path of least resistance. 2x6's from Home Depot, 8 foot pressure treated and stapled new carpet on them with SS staples.
I launched the boat, and a friend helped and it took about 3 hours while the boat was off at the ramp. I completely replaced the bunk brackets (ordered from Karavan) on the 2006 Karavan trailer as well as the lag screws and bolts with SS fasteners. They were all rusted out.
I have to think that the carpet possibly retaining some salt water (even though I rinse them) really promotes rust on those brackets. The original brackets were zinc as well, so I replaced them a with galvanized version from Karavan. I am considering cutting off some carpet on the under side of the boards for better drying. If I can get another 8-10 years, I'll be happy.
Seems my Fulton OEM jack also seized up after 8 years of saltwater use (rinsed and garaged) which is not too bad. Replaced with a new Fulton 1200 lb model and all is good on the trailer now.
wezie posted 09-30-2014 11:57 AM ET (US)
The carpet is actually the culprit simply because it holds water. Any you can remove will help.
8 years for a jack in salt seems ok. Grease is the best solution even though it may be messy. Some jacks are easier to grease than others.
Rinsing certainly helps, but grease.

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Author	Topic: Non wood Replacement bunks for Karavan trailer Montauk 170
surfkast	posted 08-25-2014 10:57 PM ET (US) Hi All, It's time to replace my bunks on my factory 2006 Karavan trailer for the Montauk 170. Turns out I have one of the bunks broken in half in the middle with the carpet holding it together. Also, the zinc bunk brackets are badly rusted and need to be replaced. Does anyone have experience with these artificial bunks? http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html I like the idea in theory and it would be nice to have a little more slip while launching and retrieving solo, although the carpeted bunks have been fine. I might be concerned there's too much 'slip' in the bunks. Any thoughts? Thanks
dfmcintyre	posted 08-27-2014 09:34 PM ET (US) And the difference between their product and Trex (or one of the similar materials available at your local Home Depot or Lowes) is.....? Cost difference? You can never have enough slip, btw... Regards - Don
wezie	posted 08-28-2014 12:50 PM ET (US) Trex has little longitudinal strength. Center to center across beams, it will span less distance than wood. seems to me that results in more point pressure over the brackets. That is the last thing a whaler needs. I do not know about the artificial material for bunks, but unless they are stiffer than wood, I would continue to use wood for bunks. Good Luck!
EJO	posted 08-28-2014 02:38 PM ET (US) "I do not know about the artificial material for bunks, but unless they are stiffer than wood, I would continue to use wood for bunks." Make in treated (wolmanized) wood with new indoor/outdoor carpet.
dfmcintyre	posted 08-28-2014 05:28 PM ET (US) One thought about wood; if you have some epoxy, you could coat the planks + any drill holes, and let dry. Then attach the carpet. Might make them last longer. As an experiment, just epoxy one bunk and leave the other (new wood) bunk uncoated. Might be interesting to determine how long each lasts. Regards - Don
Jefecinco	posted 08-28-2014 06:55 PM ET (US) I know nothing about the wood substitutes other than that those made up from recycled plastic trash or shopping bags warp considerably when used as park type benches and as boardwalks. My first choice for replacement trailer bunks is cypress lumber. I would cover them with bunk carpet on the top, sides and aft ends. I like a slight downward taper on the top of the after ends of the bunks to reduce the pressure point on the bunk ends when retrieving or launching. Cypress is naturally rot and insect resistant. Butch
tedious	posted 08-29-2014 08:19 AM ET (US) It's not Trex or any of the other plastic construction products. From the product website the bunks are HDPE, which is very stiff and very slippery. It's what plastic cutting boards are made of - ever try to bend one of those? Seems like it would be a great material for trailer bunks. Tim
Plotman	posted 08-29-2014 03:24 PM ET (US) Using HDPE for bunks does not seem like a good idea to me. If you want slick, then get new PT wood bunks, and then apply thin (thickness) strips of HDPE on top using countersunk screws. You get the strength of wood, and the slickness of HDPE. Going to be way cheaper and likely a lot stronger than all HDPE bunks. With no carpet to hold moisture, good PT will last as long as the trailer.
Jefecinco	posted 08-29-2014 07:55 PM ET (US) HDPE in long lengths will warp from excessive heat. It will also break rather than bend. Thin pieces atop bunks are reputed to work well as Plotman mentioned. Butch
tedious	posted 08-30-2014 07:26 AM ET (US) Really? What temperature will cause it to warp?
Jefecinco	posted 08-30-2014 09:59 AM ET (US) Tedious, I don't know at what temperature the material used for cutting boards warps. I have one that is warped. It lives outdoors on my fileting table. Temperatures in my back yard have probably reached about 105 F or so. I've seen aluminum bunks capped with slicks and I've seen wooden bunks with and without slicks. I've not yet seen any plastic bunks. We have a lot of trailer boats along the Central Gulf Coast and the Mobile Bay area. Probably 99% of the trailers use wooden bunks. I may spend my hard-to-come-by money to experiment with plastic bunks for my small trailer but I find it difficult to recommend an unknown course of action to someone. If you are sure there is a bunk material superior to cypress wood considering all the variables I would welcome the knowledge. Butch
contender	posted 08-31-2014 03:43 PM ET (US) I purchase and nice 4x4 pressure treated wood, Cut it in 1/2 for each side, then I cut it down to a true 2.5 inches. I then purchase 2 peices of star board 1 inch thick 4 ft long by 3.5 inches. I then counter sunk stove bolts about every 8 inches apart and bolted it throught the wood, Now my whaler sits on two big bunks (more support) on starboard (does not hurt the hull) and when you launch the boat it slides right off, No more carpet coming apart, no more reparing the bunks....
Marsh	posted 09-03-2014 07:41 PM ET (US) I went through a similar exercise earlier this spring when bunks needed replacing on my PWC trailer. After much research, I finally took the easy way: treated 2x4s and in/outdoor carpet from Lowe'sDepot, galvanized fittings and screws from Ace, and SS staples for carpet from WalMart. Probably cost me less than $40 bucks for the whole deal. Carpet was $8 or so, 2x4s were $10, staples were $15... So, yes, probably$30-$35. Of course, I only launch once in the spring, then retrieve once in the fall, so slipperiness is of little consequence.
surfkast	posted 09-30-2014 12:15 AM ET (US) So I replaced the bunks this weekend. I went the path of least resistance. 2x6's from Home Depot, 8 foot pressure treated and stapled new carpet on them with SS staples. I launched the boat, and a friend helped and it took about 3 hours while the boat was off at the ramp. I completely replaced the bunk brackets (ordered from Karavan) on the 2006 Karavan trailer as well as the lag screws and bolts with SS fasteners. They were all rusted out. I have to think that the carpet possibly retaining some salt water (even though I rinse them) really promotes rust on those brackets. The original brackets were zinc as well, so I replaced them a with galvanized version from Karavan. I am considering cutting off some carpet on the under side of the boards for better drying. If I can get another 8-10 years, I'll be happy. Seems my Fulton OEM jack also seized up after 8 years of saltwater use (rinsed and garaged) which is not too bad. Replaced with a new Fulton 1200 lb model and all is good on the trailer now.
wezie	posted 09-30-2014 11:57 AM ET (US) The carpet is actually the culprit simply because it holds water. Any you can remove will help. 8 years for a jack in salt seems ok. Grease is the best solution even though it may be messy. Some jacks are easier to grease than others. Rinsing certainly helps, but grease.