2006 MERCURY 60-HP FOURSTROKE: Rough Idle, Won't Plane, Power Lost, BEEP BEEP BEEP

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Author Topic:   2006 MERCURY 60-HP FOURSTROKE: Rough Idle, Won't Plane, Power Lost, BEEP BEEP BEEP

Miker1 posted 09-21-2014 12:19 PM ET (US)
[A 2006 Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE outboard engine with serial number] IC030035 runs (in my opinion somewhat) roughly at idle [and gives a] feel [of] vibration. [This Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE] can hold [more than] 5,000-RPM [when run] out of water with muffs, but when dropped in water under load, [it] runs rough, can't get above 2,300-RPM, can't plane, [and makes an aural alert with BEEP BEEP BEEP] horn.
[To remedy this problem I] have replaced: the fuel in tank; primer bulb, fuel filter (in plastic viewable case); cleaned fuel injectors and; replaced spark plugs, which looked black or black and brown, and re-gapped new plugs to 0.038-inch. What [is] next in the most logical, least expensive, order?
[The] problems began after putting [in five-gallons of] non-ethanol [gasoline, but I] don't think that was [a cause]. [The level of oil] might have [been] over-filled past the maximum fill line. Could [the cause of the poor running] be a combination [of causes]?
[The] fuel I pulled out had a caramel tint. I did [make some unspecified use of a product called] Seafaom, prior to draining [the fuel that was observed for color above]. My marina [sells gasoline of octane] 89 [and it has no] ethanol.
[I] bought the used boat in November. [The seller] said [the engine] was well maintained by family member who worked at authorized [service] center. [The Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE engine] ran perfectly the week before I put garage gas in it. The [gasoline] I pulled out [was put] in a car; [the car] ran [the gasoline] all fine--no problems.
Any help greatly appreciated. [I am] new to forum, [and] would be grateful for feedback.
Phil T posted 09-21-2014 03:20 PM ET (US)
NEVER, EVER run an outboard past 2,000-RPM while on the muffs. You will overheat the motor.
If you don't have the user manual for the engine, get one.
If you put low quality fuel, you have clogged VST and probably clogged injectors.
The injectors need to be sent to a professional shop for ultrasonic cleaning and testing. It is NOT a DIY. (Been there).
jimh posted 09-21-2014 03:32 PM ET (US)
Getting any engine to accelerate with no load to high engine speed is not much of a challenge nor much of a diagnostic test, and, as mentioned, it is not particularly safe for the engine.
jimh posted 09-21-2014 03:46 PM ET (US)
What next? Investigate the BEEP BEEP BEEP. It is an alarm and it is trying to tell you something.
When an outboard engine sounds an aural alert, you often have to interpret the meaning of the aural alert to understand what information the alert signal is trying to convey. Often the cadence of the aural alert and the circumstances in which it occurs will affect the meaning of the alert.
In order to interpret the cadence and circumstance of the aural alert, read the operating guide for the outboard engine. In the operating guide for an outboard engine with an aural alert warning system, you should be able to find information that will allow you to interpret the meaning of the sound signals you heard.
For a Mercury outboard to signal a warning with an aural alert cadence of BEEP BEEP BEEP is quite common. But you should look up the meaning in your operating guide. There is no certainty that BEEP BEEP BEEP means the same thing in every model of every maker.
jimh posted 09-21-2014 03:54 PM ET (US)
If I understand your narrative of the history of your Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE engine that runs rough, has lost power, and sounds an alarm with a BEEP BEEP BEEP cadence, the onset of all the problems was following use of "garage gas".
Since the onset of the problems followed introduction of "garage gas", it seems very reasonable that "garage gas" played some causal role in the occurrence of these problems. It is not clear to me from your narrative exactly what consists of "garage gas", exactly what sort of fuel you are now using in the engine, and exactly what you did to the engine with the Seafoam product. Apparently the use of Seafoam and "garage gas" are associated with the onset of the problems.
Mel Wallace posted 09-22-2014 09:12 AM ET (US)
[Opps--commented about an error that I actually introduced by mentioning "reservoir". I think the original comment about oil level was probably in regard to the crankcase level on a dip stick. Sorry to have added confusion.--jimh]
EJO posted 09-22-2014 03:42 PM ET (US)
So Mike where are you on this. Is the boat running better now with "non-garage" gasoline?
What was the solution.
Miker1 posted 09-23-2014 10:07 AM ET (US)
Have since replaced both fuel filters, added mercury fuel/engine cleaner to fuel. Ran boat with non ethanol 89, was a little better, but still significant power loss. Can get on plane -slowly, won't get above 4200rpms now.
Next steps: replace fuel line, send injectors out for professional cleaning, replace spark plug wires, regap plugs to .030 from .038., add fuel/water separator.
EJO posted 09-23-2014 03:46 PM ET (US)
Have you coils tested, you'll be surprised what they influence when not 100%. Mercury paid for one several years ago and three at the beginning of this season due to my 2008 60-HP EPL not running good.
jimh posted 09-23-2014 05:44 PM ET (US)
Have you tested the spark with an in-line spark tester?
MattInSanDiego posted 09-24-2014 01:34 AM ET (US)
If you added bad fuel without an external fuel filter or water separator then you problem is probably a fuel restriction in your motor caused by a blocked internal fuel filter or injector. And it would be a good idea to gap your plugs to manufacturer specs. Good luck tracking down the [the cause of the problem].
goldstem posted 09-24-2014 12:21 PM ET (US)
We had a similar problem with our Yamaha 50 when there was a lot of water in the fuel. I thought it would just not run, but it just ran very, very poorly, with no power, and seemed to just run on three cylinders. A complete drain and flush of the fuel system, especially the vapor separator, and new fuel filters cleared it up. New or even flushed fuel injectors were not needed.
outragesteve posted 09-25-2014 02:26 PM ET (US)
My 22' Outrage has twin F90 Yamahas with the same [problem] on one motor. RACOR water separator had a little water, but not bad. Vapor separator was where the water had collected. [The fuel vapor separator assembly is] easy to drain on the Yamaha. I hope the Mercury has the same easy drain. I used a portable 6-gallon fuel tank connected to input of RACOR and pumped fresh fuel throughout lines and system. THen I again drained the vapor separator. [Unclear, something done with the sparkplugs] and started engine. It stumbled at first, then ran great. Just for insurance, I did the same routine on the engine that was running well. Installed new RACOR filters--good to go! Good luck.
jimh posted 09-25-2014 02:39 PM ET (US)
What was done to the spark plugs? Did you replace them or just clean them?
outragesteve posted 09-26-2014 02:11 PM ET (US)
Just cleaned them. I do have a spare set, but they were not needed. I think the water got in through the fuel fill cap, which was slighlty loose. Fortunately, it was fresh water and not salt water.
Miker1 posted 09-28-2014 07:38 PM ET (US)
So I replaced the fuel line, and added a racor. It did appear there was some breakdown in the fuel line. I drained the VST and the fuel was perfect. Also did an oil and oil filter change. Took her back out on the water....same problem, low power, can't get above 4200rpm, feels like it is only running on 3 cylinders. Same quick 3 horn engine beep. Brought her back in, and pulled the brand new spark plugs I installed. All looked normal except my number 2 plug, which looked brand new and shiny. I swapped the spark pug wire with my working number 1 spark plug. Same result. I believe the problem is my number two coil. Which I will be ordering this week.
Someone had mentioned the coil in an earlier post that I just read. Thank you for all the suggestions. I will update after I receive and change coil out.
jimh posted 09-29-2014 07:31 AM ET (US)
Have you tested for spark with an in-line spark tester?
jimh posted 09-29-2014 07:31 AM ET (US)
Have you investigated the cause of the BEEP BEEP BEEP alarm signal?
Miker1 posted 09-29-2014 08:59 AM ET (US)
Yes, tested for spark: none at the number two plug. Took the boat down to Marine Max repair to put it on computer. They were too busy to be able to get to it, gave me a few more suggestions, and told me to bring it back if they didn't work. I will order this coil and replace, and after that will probably leave it with mechanics if the coil is not the [cause of no spark at cylinder two]. (I feel pretty strongly that the coil is the culprit at this point)
jimh posted 09-29-2014 10:21 AM ET (US)
Let us know how the replacement of the Mercury spark coil affects the problems you are having with poor power from your Mercury FOURSTROKE 60-HP.
You did a lot of work on the fuel system, and, even if that did not cure the problem, it was probably all good work and worthwhile.
Another simple test for spark at each cylinder can be made by pulling off the spark plug lead and observing any change in engine speed. That is an old method of testing, and it might not be the best on a modern engine. The open-circuit of the high-voltage spark coil output might be a bit unhappy with no plug to load it down.
Also see the concurrent discussion about problems with a Mercury outboard engine that seem to be due to failure of the spark coil at
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020994.html
dscew posted 09-29-2014 08:38 PM ET (US)
While on vacation two years ago I had the same problem with a Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE [made c.2006]. I took it to a nearby Mercury dealer; they replaced one coil. That fixed the problem immediately. I called Mercury and they replaced the three remaining coils even though my six-year warranty had expired by a month. Apparently this is a fairly common problem. No [problems with these coils] since.
surfkast posted 09-30-2014 01:15 AM ET (US)
This reminds me of a funny story. A friend bought an old boat that kept having engine problems. They finally wound up replacing the engine with another used engine. Even with the new engine, they couldn't get over 2,000 RPM. Always having fuel-related engine problems, too. Kept replacing the fuel filter. He finally took it into the mechanic to get the fuel tank cleaned and they found a mouse in the old tank.
outragesteve posted 10-01-2014 12:40 AM ET (US)
Try this: Swap the #2 coil, which may faulty, with one that is firing. If there is still no spark on #2, it's not the coil but something else in the ignition system. If the coil is bad, the problem will now be on that cylinder you swapped it to. Good luck!
jimh posted 10-01-2014 08:50 AM ET (US)
What happened to the aural alert with the BEEP BEEP BEEP cadence? Is the alarm still sounding? If not, what was the meaning of the BEEP BEEP BEEP alarm cadence? Did you find a definite cause for the BEEP BEEP BEEP alarm? Do you know what action you performed was able to silence the alarm?
Miker1 posted 10-01-2014 01:00 PM ET (US)
I replaced ignition coil #2, and it fixed the problem, although still had the 3 beep aural alert. I put the boat on the lift after running to flush the motor, and when I tried to start engine- the battery was dead.
I charged the batteries and took her back out on the water the next day, and ran perfectly again with NO aural alert. Apparently low voltage battery can cause the 3 beep aural alert.
I will now replace the other 3 coils.
It was a long road to get here, but everything that was done needed to get done anyways, and it was a great learning experience.
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions!
outragesteve posted 10-01-2014 02:29 PM ET (US)
Good job! The beep-beep-beep: Do you have "Smartcraft" gauges or analong? I've seen boats on which Smartcraft gauges throw out alarms for low battery voltage. Usual suspect is the battery.
Miker1 posted 10-01-2014 02:37 PM ET (US)
Analog gauges, no Smartcraft.
jimh posted 10-02-2014 08:22 AM ET (US)
On these older, simplistic outboard engines, the aural alert is usually not initiated by a gauge. Usually the alarm circuit is quite simple, with several sensors wired in parallel, and if any sensor is in an alarm condition, its switch closes, sounding the aural alert.
Do you have a detailed electrical schematic diagram for the engine? It should clearly show the wiring of the aural alert. It should be rather simple to see the electrical connections to sensors, and to deduce what sensors can cause the aural alarm to sound.
Again, as I mentioned earlier, the method for interpretation of the aural alarm signal is usually provided in the operating guide. Usually there is a combination of factors to consider in making the interpretation of the aural alert. Usually it is necessary to interpret the cadence of the aural alert and the circumstance when it is sounding in order to deduce the meaning of the aural alert.
If you have no idea of the meaning of the aural alert might be, it has very little value as information. It becomes just a nuisance. You should find out what it means when your 2006 Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE begins to sound BEEP BEEP BEEP with its aural alert. Until you figure this out, the alarm has no value or meaning--and that makes no sense. If someone designed the alarm as a means of informing the operator of a problem, there MUST be some description of what can cause the alarm and what it might mean. To continue to run the engine without having some idea of what the aural alert signals mean seems like not a very good method of operation.
alvispollard posted 10-20-2014 05:34 AM ET (US)
I just remedied the same problem. The BEEP BEEP BEEP aural alert was [caused by] an electric spark timing [trigger?] (EST) coil shorting out. The wire going to this EST had rubbed against the cowling and was almost worn through the insulation. Mine was #4 coil, the bottom one. The service shop did not have a replacement coil in stock. but at Cincinnati Basspro Service Center, where this 2007 Mercury 60-hP FOURSTROKE was bought, the service manager insulated the coil, and the problem was corrected. I have now run the engine more than seven hours on three days at 5,000-RPM (27.5 mph). My boat is a 1990 Montauk 17.

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Author	Topic: 2006 MERCURY 60-HP FOURSTROKE: Rough Idle, Won't Plane, Power Lost, BEEP BEEP BEEP
Miker1	posted 09-21-2014 12:19 PM ET (US) [A 2006 Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE outboard engine with serial number] IC030035 runs (in my opinion somewhat) roughly at idle [and gives a] feel [of] vibration. [This Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE] can hold [more than] 5,000-RPM [when run] out of water with muffs, but when dropped in water under load, [it] runs rough, can't get above 2,300-RPM, can't plane, [and makes an aural alert with BEEP BEEP BEEP] horn. [To remedy this problem I] have replaced: the fuel in tank; primer bulb, fuel filter (in plastic viewable case); cleaned fuel injectors and; replaced spark plugs, which looked black or black and brown, and re-gapped new plugs to 0.038-inch. What [is] next in the most logical, least expensive, order? [The] problems began after putting [in five-gallons of] non-ethanol [gasoline, but I] don't think that was [a cause]. [The level of oil] might have [been] over-filled past the maximum fill line. Could [the cause of the poor running] be a combination [of causes]? [The] fuel I pulled out had a caramel tint. I did [make some unspecified use of a product called] Seafaom, prior to draining [the fuel that was observed for color above]. My marina [sells gasoline of octane] 89 [and it has no] ethanol. [I] bought the used boat in November. [The seller] said [the engine] was well maintained by family member who worked at authorized [service] center. [The Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE engine] ran perfectly the week before I put garage gas in it. The [gasoline] I pulled out [was put] in a car; [the car] ran [the gasoline] all fine--no problems. Any help greatly appreciated. [I am] new to forum, [and] would be grateful for feedback.
Phil T	posted 09-21-2014 03:20 PM ET (US) NEVER, EVER run an outboard past 2,000-RPM while on the muffs. You will overheat the motor. If you don't have the user manual for the engine, get one. If you put low quality fuel, you have clogged VST and probably clogged injectors. The injectors need to be sent to a professional shop for ultrasonic cleaning and testing. It is NOT a DIY. (Been there).
jimh	posted 09-21-2014 03:32 PM ET (US) Getting any engine to accelerate with no load to high engine speed is not much of a challenge nor much of a diagnostic test, and, as mentioned, it is not particularly safe for the engine.
jimh	posted 09-21-2014 03:46 PM ET (US) What next? Investigate the BEEP BEEP BEEP. It is an alarm and it is trying to tell you something. When an outboard engine sounds an aural alert, you often have to interpret the meaning of the aural alert to understand what information the alert signal is trying to convey. Often the cadence of the aural alert and the circumstances in which it occurs will affect the meaning of the alert. In order to interpret the cadence and circumstance of the aural alert, read the operating guide for the outboard engine. In the operating guide for an outboard engine with an aural alert warning system, you should be able to find information that will allow you to interpret the meaning of the sound signals you heard. For a Mercury outboard to signal a warning with an aural alert cadence of BEEP BEEP BEEP is quite common. But you should look up the meaning in your operating guide. There is no certainty that BEEP BEEP BEEP means the same thing in every model of every maker.
jimh	posted 09-21-2014 03:54 PM ET (US) If I understand your narrative of the history of your Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE engine that runs rough, has lost power, and sounds an alarm with a BEEP BEEP BEEP cadence, the onset of all the problems was following use of "garage gas". Since the onset of the problems followed introduction of "garage gas", it seems very reasonable that "garage gas" played some causal role in the occurrence of these problems. It is not clear to me from your narrative exactly what consists of "garage gas", exactly what sort of fuel you are now using in the engine, and exactly what you did to the engine with the Seafoam product. Apparently the use of Seafoam and "garage gas" are associated with the onset of the problems.
Mel Wallace	posted 09-22-2014 09:12 AM ET (US) [Opps--commented about an error that I actually introduced by mentioning "reservoir". I think the original comment about oil level was probably in regard to the crankcase level on a dip stick. Sorry to have added confusion.--jimh]
EJO	posted 09-22-2014 03:42 PM ET (US) So Mike where are you on this. Is the boat running better now with "non-garage" gasoline? What was the solution.
Miker1	posted 09-23-2014 10:07 AM ET (US) Have since replaced both fuel filters, added mercury fuel/engine cleaner to fuel. Ran boat with non ethanol 89, was a little better, but still significant power loss. Can get on plane -slowly, won't get above 4200rpms now. Next steps: replace fuel line, send injectors out for professional cleaning, replace spark plug wires, regap plugs to .030 from .038., add fuel/water separator.
EJO	posted 09-23-2014 03:46 PM ET (US) Have you coils tested, you'll be surprised what they influence when not 100%. Mercury paid for one several years ago and three at the beginning of this season due to my 2008 60-HP EPL not running good.
jimh	posted 09-23-2014 05:44 PM ET (US) Have you tested the spark with an in-line spark tester?
MattInSanDiego	posted 09-24-2014 01:34 AM ET (US) If you added bad fuel without an external fuel filter or water separator then you problem is probably a fuel restriction in your motor caused by a blocked internal fuel filter or injector. And it would be a good idea to gap your plugs to manufacturer specs. Good luck tracking down the [the cause of the problem].
goldstem	posted 09-24-2014 12:21 PM ET (US) We had a similar problem with our Yamaha 50 when there was a lot of water in the fuel. I thought it would just not run, but it just ran very, very poorly, with no power, and seemed to just run on three cylinders. A complete drain and flush of the fuel system, especially the vapor separator, and new fuel filters cleared it up. New or even flushed fuel injectors were not needed.
outragesteve	posted 09-25-2014 02:26 PM ET (US) My 22' Outrage has twin F90 Yamahas with the same [problem] on one motor. RACOR water separator had a little water, but not bad. Vapor separator was where the water had collected. [The fuel vapor separator assembly is] easy to drain on the Yamaha. I hope the Mercury has the same easy drain. I used a portable 6-gallon fuel tank connected to input of RACOR and pumped fresh fuel throughout lines and system. THen I again drained the vapor separator. [Unclear, something done with the sparkplugs] and started engine. It stumbled at first, then ran great. Just for insurance, I did the same routine on the engine that was running well. Installed new RACOR filters--good to go! Good luck.
jimh	posted 09-25-2014 02:39 PM ET (US) What was done to the spark plugs? Did you replace them or just clean them?
outragesteve	posted 09-26-2014 02:11 PM ET (US) Just cleaned them. I do have a spare set, but they were not needed. I think the water got in through the fuel fill cap, which was slighlty loose. Fortunately, it was fresh water and not salt water.
Miker1	posted 09-28-2014 07:38 PM ET (US) So I replaced the fuel line, and added a racor. It did appear there was some breakdown in the fuel line. I drained the VST and the fuel was perfect. Also did an oil and oil filter change. Took her back out on the water....same problem, low power, can't get above 4200rpm, feels like it is only running on 3 cylinders. Same quick 3 horn engine beep. Brought her back in, and pulled the brand new spark plugs I installed. All looked normal except my number 2 plug, which looked brand new and shiny. I swapped the spark pug wire with my working number 1 spark plug. Same result. I believe the problem is my number two coil. Which I will be ordering this week. Someone had mentioned the coil in an earlier post that I just read. Thank you for all the suggestions. I will update after I receive and change coil out.
jimh	posted 09-29-2014 07:31 AM ET (US) Have you tested for spark with an in-line spark tester?
jimh	posted 09-29-2014 07:31 AM ET (US) Have you investigated the cause of the BEEP BEEP BEEP alarm signal?
Miker1	posted 09-29-2014 08:59 AM ET (US) Yes, tested for spark: none at the number two plug. Took the boat down to Marine Max repair to put it on computer. They were too busy to be able to get to it, gave me a few more suggestions, and told me to bring it back if they didn't work. I will order this coil and replace, and after that will probably leave it with mechanics if the coil is not the [cause of no spark at cylinder two]. (I feel pretty strongly that the coil is the culprit at this point)
jimh	posted 09-29-2014 10:21 AM ET (US) Let us know how the replacement of the Mercury spark coil affects the problems you are having with poor power from your Mercury FOURSTROKE 60-HP. You did a lot of work on the fuel system, and, even if that did not cure the problem, it was probably all good work and worthwhile. Another simple test for spark at each cylinder can be made by pulling off the spark plug lead and observing any change in engine speed. That is an old method of testing, and it might not be the best on a modern engine. The open-circuit of the high-voltage spark coil output might be a bit unhappy with no plug to load it down. Also see the concurrent discussion about problems with a Mercury outboard engine that seem to be due to failure of the spark coil at http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020994.html
dscew	posted 09-29-2014 08:38 PM ET (US) While on vacation two years ago I had the same problem with a Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE [made c.2006]. I took it to a nearby Mercury dealer; they replaced one coil. That fixed the problem immediately. I called Mercury and they replaced the three remaining coils even though my six-year warranty had expired by a month. Apparently this is a fairly common problem. No [problems with these coils] since.
surfkast	posted 09-30-2014 01:15 AM ET (US) This reminds me of a funny story. A friend bought an old boat that kept having engine problems. They finally wound up replacing the engine with another used engine. Even with the new engine, they couldn't get over 2,000 RPM. Always having fuel-related engine problems, too. Kept replacing the fuel filter. He finally took it into the mechanic to get the fuel tank cleaned and they found a mouse in the old tank.
outragesteve	posted 10-01-2014 12:40 AM ET (US) Try this: Swap the #2 coil, which may faulty, with one that is firing. If there is still no spark on #2, it's not the coil but something else in the ignition system. If the coil is bad, the problem will now be on that cylinder you swapped it to. Good luck!
jimh	posted 10-01-2014 08:50 AM ET (US) What happened to the aural alert with the BEEP BEEP BEEP cadence? Is the alarm still sounding? If not, what was the meaning of the BEEP BEEP BEEP alarm cadence? Did you find a definite cause for the BEEP BEEP BEEP alarm? Do you know what action you performed was able to silence the alarm?
Miker1	posted 10-01-2014 01:00 PM ET (US) I replaced ignition coil #2, and it fixed the problem, although still had the 3 beep aural alert. I put the boat on the lift after running to flush the motor, and when I tried to start engine- the battery was dead. I charged the batteries and took her back out on the water the next day, and ran perfectly again with NO aural alert. Apparently low voltage battery can cause the 3 beep aural alert. I will now replace the other 3 coils. It was a long road to get here, but everything that was done needed to get done anyways, and it was a great learning experience. Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions!
outragesteve	posted 10-01-2014 02:29 PM ET (US) Good job! The beep-beep-beep: Do you have "Smartcraft" gauges or analong? I've seen boats on which Smartcraft gauges throw out alarms for low battery voltage. Usual suspect is the battery.
Miker1	posted 10-01-2014 02:37 PM ET (US) Analog gauges, no Smartcraft.
jimh	posted 10-02-2014 08:22 AM ET (US) On these older, simplistic outboard engines, the aural alert is usually not initiated by a gauge. Usually the alarm circuit is quite simple, with several sensors wired in parallel, and if any sensor is in an alarm condition, its switch closes, sounding the aural alert. Do you have a detailed electrical schematic diagram for the engine? It should clearly show the wiring of the aural alert. It should be rather simple to see the electrical connections to sensors, and to deduce what sensors can cause the aural alarm to sound. Again, as I mentioned earlier, the method for interpretation of the aural alarm signal is usually provided in the operating guide. Usually there is a combination of factors to consider in making the interpretation of the aural alert. Usually it is necessary to interpret the cadence of the aural alert and the circumstance when it is sounding in order to deduce the meaning of the aural alert. If you have no idea of the meaning of the aural alert might be, it has very little value as information. It becomes just a nuisance. You should find out what it means when your 2006 Mercury 60-HP FOURSTROKE begins to sound BEEP BEEP BEEP with its aural alert. Until you figure this out, the alarm has no value or meaning--and that makes no sense. If someone designed the alarm as a means of informing the operator of a problem, there MUST be some description of what can cause the alarm and what it might mean. To continue to run the engine without having some idea of what the aural alert signals mean seems like not a very good method of operation.
alvispollard	posted 10-20-2014 05:34 AM ET (US) I just remedied the same problem. The BEEP BEEP BEEP aural alert was [caused by] an electric spark timing [trigger?] (EST) coil shorting out. The wire going to this EST had rubbed against the cowling and was almost worn through the insulation. Mine was #4 coil, the bottom one. The service shop did not have a replacement coil in stock. but at Cincinnati Basspro Service Center, where this 2007 Mercury 60-hP FOURSTROKE was bought, the service manager insulated the coil, and the problem was corrected. I have now run the engine more than seven hours on three days at 5,000-RPM (27.5 mph). My boat is a 1990 Montauk 17.