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Author Topic:   Fixing a 1962 13-footer

tribologist posted 09-30-2014 01:55 AM ET (US)
Earlier this summer I picked up a 1962 13-foot Boston Whaler boat with an Evinrude 25-HP. We got good use of it, but during a trip in August I saw that some glass weave was pealing off the bottom. I flipped it over and started to look at the hull a bit closer. It turned out that there has been some really [poor] repairs done over the last 52 years. The funniest one was the bottom was glassed over old bottom paint. I think there are Ph.D. students and professors out there studying how barnacles can stick so good to stuff but they don't stick to bottom paint, so why someone would think polyester would stick to bottom paint is beyond my comprehension.
I'm taking pictures as I go and I'm capturing them in a blogger account. Here are some images of the initial stripping:
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/this-is-1962-whaler-we-picked-up-on-4th.html
And here are some pictures on how I'm fixing the bow of it where someone had simply glassed over some old pine to repair some damage to the starboard side. I made a mold of the old shape before I ripped out the wood, and then I'm building a new shell from the mold.
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-bow-repair.html
There is a similar wood repair on the railing on the port side and I hope to take better images of that repair.
Currently I'm done with most of the repairs on the bottom of the hull. Over the years the hull has been sanded, so it is very thin and there is also some cracking, so I like to glass over the bottom. I'm not sure yet how to approach that. I'm picking up some ideas from the Glass Magic Playmaster videos Andy Miller posted on the youtube channel Boatworks Today.
So far I have done all work with Vinylester and polyester deck putty. I will keep updating the images at the blog. Whalers are like a box of chocolate, you never know....Any comments or insights are appreciated.
Ulf

jimh posted 09-30-2014 07:52 AM ET (US)
You have quite a project with that 1962 hull. You are going to become expert in Unibond hull repair by the time you finish. I found your blog and its photographs very interesting. Good luck with project, and thanks for posting the links.
Removing all the old repairs, paint, and who knows what else must have been quite a process.
tribologist posted 09-30-2014 09:52 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jim,
Im not so much into it as for restoring it but rather learn how to work with fiberglass in new ways.
Last night I attacked a new area, The starboard gunwale.
It looked a bit strange with a flat section but I did not think to much about it until I was sanding it down to restore the shape and found ... wood...
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/gunwale-repair.html
I got it pretty well cleaned out and as usual it was a bit worse than I thought but not as bad as it could have been..
I was suck for a while with some gray matter that was bothering me. I was almost ready to take a chip to work and do a FT-IR on it to identify it but after prying on it it was giving in so I removed all of it instead of making a science project of it. (I got a PhD so science projects is what most of my stuff end up as...).
Anyway. I figured how to restore the shape by copying the shape of the port side.
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/gunwale-repair-2.html
Right now the angle is drying after spraying it with PVA. I might put it in place with some faring compound so I can lay up some laminate on it tomorrow.
I also need to figure a way to generate the shape of the gunwale. I could possibly copy the area behind but the curvature is different.
dg22 posted 10-09-2014 09:33 AM ET (US)
It looks like you are doing a great job. After restoring my 1967 13-footer, I appreciate the work involved. If you plan on going with a new rub rail, check with your local BW dealer on a price and decals too. I was surprised how reasonable the prices were on these parts. I've read here that many people from the US order the rub rail from Twin Cities Marine.
tribologist posted 10-09-2014 10:27 PM ET (US)
Will do, i just bought a rail set from a guy in Groton, CT and he had similar experience. I was just searching on ebay for a rubrail. I will check with whaler before buying. I got some more work done. I will update the blog shortly.
Thanks
Ulf
tribologist posted 10-15-2014 11:11 PM ET (US)
Got the gunwale laminated tonight and I updated the blog.
I'm really getting found of using e glass filled Hull and Deck putty rather than trying to make mash out of CSM. Dealing with the long strands from the CSM and try to tuck them in under the laminate edge is not easy and it is very easy to end up with voids right where you don't want them.
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/gunwale-repair.html
tribologist posted 10-18-2014 12:21 AM ET (US)
Did some real progress on the bow. I start feeling quite good about that now. I was nervous for a while that it would be very hard to pour and shape the concave foam but it was not that bad.
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-bow-repair.html

Ulf
dg22 posted 10-21-2014 11:26 AM ET (US)
That sure is quite the project. Once you get the body work done, what do you plan to finish it with; paint or gel coat?
tribologist posted 10-28-2014 12:09 AM ET (US)
I'm not sure. I'm getting used to sand so i might go with gelcoat. I was thinking of picking up some at Merton's and try to see what effort it is to sand it.
I was also considering Rustoleums boat paint.
I updated the blog tonight. The bow is starting to look really good. I started to use a hull and deck putty that I apply within the layup as substitute to the "Whaler Mash". It makes it very easy to make a good transition from the old glass to the repair.
http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-bow-repair.htm

Ulf
Treypescatorie posted 10-28-2014 06:35 PM ET (US)
I restored a 1968 13 sport. I had problems with hull bottom de laminating. There was a space between the hull bottom and the foam. I wound up drilling holes and injecting epoxy into the holes. After injecting epoxy in the holes the a good amount of epoxy oozed out of the holes. When this happened, I spread the epoxy evenly across the hull bottom.The hull bottom is still solid 3 years later.

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Author	Topic: Fixing a 1962 13-footer
tribologist	posted 09-30-2014 01:55 AM ET (US) Earlier this summer I picked up a 1962 13-foot Boston Whaler boat with an Evinrude 25-HP. We got good use of it, but during a trip in August I saw that some glass weave was pealing off the bottom. I flipped it over and started to look at the hull a bit closer. It turned out that there has been some really [poor] repairs done over the last 52 years. The funniest one was the bottom was glassed over old bottom paint. I think there are Ph.D. students and professors out there studying how barnacles can stick so good to stuff but they don't stick to bottom paint, so why someone would think polyester would stick to bottom paint is beyond my comprehension. I'm taking pictures as I go and I'm capturing them in a blogger account. Here are some images of the initial stripping: http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/this-is-1962-whaler-we-picked-up-on-4th.html And here are some pictures on how I'm fixing the bow of it where someone had simply glassed over some old pine to repair some damage to the starboard side. I made a mold of the old shape before I ripped out the wood, and then I'm building a new shell from the mold. http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-bow-repair.html There is a similar wood repair on the railing on the port side and I hope to take better images of that repair. Currently I'm done with most of the repairs on the bottom of the hull. Over the years the hull has been sanded, so it is very thin and there is also some cracking, so I like to glass over the bottom. I'm not sure yet how to approach that. I'm picking up some ideas from the Glass Magic Playmaster videos Andy Miller posted on the youtube channel Boatworks Today. So far I have done all work with Vinylester and polyester deck putty. I will keep updating the images at the blog. Whalers are like a box of chocolate, you never know....Any comments or insights are appreciated. Ulf
jimh	posted 09-30-2014 07:52 AM ET (US) You have quite a project with that 1962 hull. You are going to become expert in Unibond hull repair by the time you finish. I found your blog and its photographs very interesting. Good luck with project, and thanks for posting the links. Removing all the old repairs, paint, and who knows what else must have been quite a process.
tribologist	posted 09-30-2014 09:52 PM ET (US) Thanks Jim, Im not so much into it as for restoring it but rather learn how to work with fiberglass in new ways. Last night I attacked a new area, The starboard gunwale. It looked a bit strange with a flat section but I did not think to much about it until I was sanding it down to restore the shape and found ... wood... http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/gunwale-repair.html I got it pretty well cleaned out and as usual it was a bit worse than I thought but not as bad as it could have been.. I was suck for a while with some gray matter that was bothering me. I was almost ready to take a chip to work and do a FT-IR on it to identify it but after prying on it it was giving in so I removed all of it instead of making a science project of it. (I got a PhD so science projects is what most of my stuff end up as...). Anyway. I figured how to restore the shape by copying the shape of the port side. http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/gunwale-repair-2.html Right now the angle is drying after spraying it with PVA. I might put it in place with some faring compound so I can lay up some laminate on it tomorrow. I also need to figure a way to generate the shape of the gunwale. I could possibly copy the area behind but the curvature is different.
dg22	posted 10-09-2014 09:33 AM ET (US) It looks like you are doing a great job. After restoring my 1967 13-footer, I appreciate the work involved. If you plan on going with a new rub rail, check with your local BW dealer on a price and decals too. I was surprised how reasonable the prices were on these parts. I've read here that many people from the US order the rub rail from Twin Cities Marine.
tribologist	posted 10-09-2014 10:27 PM ET (US) Will do, i just bought a rail set from a guy in Groton, CT and he had similar experience. I was just searching on ebay for a rubrail. I will check with whaler before buying. I got some more work done. I will update the blog shortly. Thanks Ulf
tribologist	posted 10-15-2014 11:11 PM ET (US) Got the gunwale laminated tonight and I updated the blog. I'm really getting found of using e glass filled Hull and Deck putty rather than trying to make mash out of CSM. Dealing with the long strands from the CSM and try to tuck them in under the laminate edge is not easy and it is very easy to end up with voids right where you don't want them. http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/gunwale-repair.html
tribologist	posted 10-18-2014 12:21 AM ET (US) Did some real progress on the bow. I start feeling quite good about that now. I was nervous for a while that it would be very hard to pour and shape the concave foam but it was not that bad. http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-bow-repair.html Ulf
dg22	posted 10-21-2014 11:26 AM ET (US) That sure is quite the project. Once you get the body work done, what do you plan to finish it with; paint or gel coat?
tribologist	posted 10-28-2014 12:09 AM ET (US) I'm not sure. I'm getting used to sand so i might go with gelcoat. I was thinking of picking up some at Merton's and try to see what effort it is to sand it. I was also considering Rustoleums boat paint. I updated the blog tonight. The bow is starting to look really good. I started to use a hull and deck putty that I apply within the layup as substitute to the "Whaler Mash". It makes it very easy to make a good transition from the old glass to the repair. http://whaler-restore.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-bow-repair.htm Ulf
Treypescatorie	posted 10-28-2014 06:35 PM ET (US) I restored a 1968 13 sport. I had problems with hull bottom de laminating. There was a space between the hull bottom and the foam. I wound up drilling holes and injecting epoxy into the holes. After injecting epoxy in the holes the a good amount of epoxy oozed out of the holes. When this happened, I spread the epoxy evenly across the hull bottom.The hull bottom is still solid 3 years later.