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Author Topic:   1991 Guardian 19: Best Caulk For Deck Seams

Don SSDD posted 12-06-2014 02:52 PM ET (US)
Anything new recommended for [caulking the seams in the deck] of a 1991 Boston Whaler GUARDIAN 19? The boat's deck was last [caulked] with something that is a bit rubbery, and it is coming loose around the edges. My winter project is to replace the caulk so I don't get any water [under the deck].
Thanks,
Don
picflight posted 12-07-2014 03:21 PM ET (US)

Star brite Silicone Adhesive Marine Sealant
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AYC0L/ ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
acseatsri posted 12-07-2014 06:31 PM ET (US)
I've always used Boatfife Lifeseal. I stay away from silicone unless it's just sealing I'm after. Silicone has very little adhesion.
saumon posted 12-07-2014 07:26 PM ET (US)
Don--the previous owner of my 1991 Outrage 17 removed the deck panel to fix a soft soft. He foundout the Starbrite almond caulking can now be ordered in small quantities directly from the company, that, even if it's not available anymore from Twin Cities. That color is a perfect match with the Desert Tan interior.
Here's what's on the receipt, dated May 2012, when he ordered two tubes:
Star Brite Inc.
4041 S.W. 47 Avenue
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33314
Tel: (954) 587-6280
Fax: (954) 587-2813
Item number: 082155EA
Description: Each, 300 ML-SIL.SLNT/Almond 10.3oz
Unit price: 12.25
Don SSDD posted 12-14-2014 09:12 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the information
jimh posted 12-15-2014 12:27 AM ET (US)
I think you folks are talking about caulk, right? A "sealer" sound like something you'd apply all over the deck. Caulk is something for the seams where the deck sections join.
Don SSDD posted 12-15-2014 08:23 PM ET (US)
Correct.
jimh posted 12-19-2014 08:21 AM ET (US)
[Edited article to reflect that it was discussing the best caulk for use in seams between deck panels.]
elvis posted 12-20-2014 05:32 AM ET (US)
On my 18 Guardian, I just used 100% clear silicone exterior from Walmart on mine. Will look good for some few years, and if it gets too ugly looking, I'll peel it out with plastic scraper and add fresh. Did this on my 18 outrage in 1996, looked fine until I sold like 5 years later.
egres posted 12-26-2014 05:27 PM ET (US)
You will be advised about this excellent product.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/ 3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200?N=5510818+3294314620+3294314622&rt=rud
jimh posted 12-26-2014 08:42 PM ET (US)
I advise against using 3M5200 (the product that EGRES has recommended above). It is really a very strong adhesive, and would likely make subsequent removal of a deck section very difficult. I advise against using it based on its adhesive strength being too great for this application.
egres posted 12-26-2014 10:17 PM ET (US)
Still will support the superior integrity of the 3M 5200 for sealing the gas tank cover to structures.
This excellent 3M product will last and keep it's integrity much longer then the 3M 4200 softer product.
After all who wants to have to reseal their "tank lid" every time a softer sealer come adrift?
Most of us will redo the seal on their Whaler decking part ONLY when the need demands to be addressed.
I have used both products for my gunwale sections and have found the 3M 5200 to be more suited for a long lasting if not more durable bonding and seal.
Each to his own but my money goes for doing things only "Once" and doing it "Right" the first time.
acseatsri posted 12-27-2014 01:11 PM ET (US)
I would STRONGLY recommend NOT using 5200 for sealing deck seams. When the time does come to open up the deck, you'll find that the tenaciously adhesive 5200 will pull the gelcoat off the fiberglass if it deck seam isn't cut totally out of the seam.
egres posted 12-27-2014 04:41 PM ET (US)
There is some truth in what everyone's experience has thought us in doing the "Tank Lid"removal and servicing of the gas components.
One will not "pull" anything apart but rather neatly cut through with our favorite tool.
I have experienced getting some gelcoat chipping when removing varnished wood from the gelcoated areas.
So my experience has proven that prying and pulling apart of whaler components should be avoided when epoxy, varnish or sealer has been applied.
To neatly cut and free the parts will be advised.
And this regardless of the material used.
Sikaflex Marine Adhesive/Sealant and Bedding Compound has been often used here in our repairs and would also be recommended.
Upon repairing and updating several hulls throughout the years,I have seen everything from Latex bath tub sealers to Silicone colored beading's to seal and fasten marine decking components.
The usual sealing agents were picked and improvised by past owners on what was available at the time.
In recapping you will use what feels right and if proven to fail in time,you can reseal again until you are satisfied with the durability of the product.
The importance of a light and careful touch will be important unless wrecking and scavenging parts is what is being done.

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Author	Topic: 1991 Guardian 19: Best Caulk For Deck Seams
Don SSDD	posted 12-06-2014 02:52 PM ET (US) Anything new recommended for [caulking the seams in the deck] of a 1991 Boston Whaler GUARDIAN 19? The boat's deck was last [caulked] with something that is a bit rubbery, and it is coming loose around the edges. My winter project is to replace the caulk so I don't get any water [under the deck]. Thanks, Don
picflight	posted 12-07-2014 03:21 PM ET (US) Star brite Silicone Adhesive Marine Sealant http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AYC0L/ ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
acseatsri	posted 12-07-2014 06:31 PM ET (US) I've always used Boatfife Lifeseal. I stay away from silicone unless it's just sealing I'm after. Silicone has very little adhesion.
saumon	posted 12-07-2014 07:26 PM ET (US) Don--the previous owner of my 1991 Outrage 17 removed the deck panel to fix a soft soft. He foundout the Starbrite almond caulking can now be ordered in small quantities directly from the company, that, even if it's not available anymore from Twin Cities. That color is a perfect match with the Desert Tan interior. Here's what's on the receipt, dated May 2012, when he ordered two tubes: Star Brite Inc. 4041 S.W. 47 Avenue Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33314 Tel: (954) 587-6280 Fax: (954) 587-2813 Item number: 082155EA Description: Each, 300 ML-SIL.SLNT/Almond 10.3oz Unit price: 12.25
Don SSDD	posted 12-14-2014 09:12 AM ET (US) Thanks for the information
jimh	posted 12-15-2014 12:27 AM ET (US) I think you folks are talking about caulk, right? A "sealer" sound like something you'd apply all over the deck. Caulk is something for the seams where the deck sections join.
Don SSDD	posted 12-15-2014 08:23 PM ET (US) Correct.
jimh	posted 12-19-2014 08:21 AM ET (US) [Edited article to reflect that it was discussing the best caulk for use in seams between deck panels.]
elvis	posted 12-20-2014 05:32 AM ET (US) On my 18 Guardian, I just used 100% clear silicone exterior from Walmart on mine. Will look good for some few years, and if it gets too ugly looking, I'll peel it out with plastic scraper and add fresh. Did this on my 18 outrage in 1996, looked fine until I sold like 5 years later.
egres	posted 12-26-2014 05:27 PM ET (US) You will be advised about this excellent product. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/ 3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200?N=5510818+3294314620+3294314622&rt=rud
jimh	posted 12-26-2014 08:42 PM ET (US) I advise against using 3M5200 (the product that EGRES has recommended above). It is really a very strong adhesive, and would likely make subsequent removal of a deck section very difficult. I advise against using it based on its adhesive strength being too great for this application.
egres	posted 12-26-2014 10:17 PM ET (US) Still will support the superior integrity of the 3M 5200 for sealing the gas tank cover to structures. This excellent 3M product will last and keep it's integrity much longer then the 3M 4200 softer product. After all who wants to have to reseal their "tank lid" every time a softer sealer come adrift? Most of us will redo the seal on their Whaler decking part ONLY when the need demands to be addressed. I have used both products for my gunwale sections and have found the 3M 5200 to be more suited for a long lasting if not more durable bonding and seal. Each to his own but my money goes for doing things only "Once" and doing it "Right" the first time.
acseatsri	posted 12-27-2014 01:11 PM ET (US) I would STRONGLY recommend NOT using 5200 for sealing deck seams. When the time does come to open up the deck, you'll find that the tenaciously adhesive 5200 will pull the gelcoat off the fiberglass if it deck seam isn't cut totally out of the seam.
egres	posted 12-27-2014 04:41 PM ET (US) There is some truth in what everyone's experience has thought us in doing the "Tank Lid"removal and servicing of the gas components. One will not "pull" anything apart but rather neatly cut through with our favorite tool. I have experienced getting some gelcoat chipping when removing varnished wood from the gelcoated areas. So my experience has proven that prying and pulling apart of whaler components should be avoided when epoxy, varnish or sealer has been applied. To neatly cut and free the parts will be advised. And this regardless of the material used. Sikaflex Marine Adhesive/Sealant and Bedding Compound has been often used here in our repairs and would also be recommended. Upon repairing and updating several hulls throughout the years,I have seen everything from Latex bath tub sealers to Silicone colored beading's to seal and fasten marine decking components. The usual sealing agents were picked and improvised by past owners on what was available at the time. In recapping you will use what feels right and if proven to fail in time,you can reseal again until you are satisfied with the durability of the product. The importance of a light and careful touch will be important unless wrecking and scavenging parts is what is being done.