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Author Topic:   Trolling Motor Mounting Options w/Bow Rail

jason78 posted 01-04-2015 08:05 PM ET (US)
After the first full year with my 1997 20 Outrage I am really liking this boat. One challenge that I am seeing is not having a trolling motor. I would say we do about 35% fishing but I sure would like to have one when I need one. So far the two challenges I see with adding a trolling motor are-
1. I have a bow rail.
2. I do not have any factory wiring provisions at the bow for a trolling motor.
Wondering how others have tackled this. I have seen where people have cut a section out of the bow rail to allow the motor to fold out. I really don't want to do that. Also not sure how I would get wiring up to the bow through all the foam, other than surface mounting it from the underside of the gunwale forward and I don't want to do that anyway.
So, has anyone found a bow trolling motor that is adjustable or versatile enough to clear under a bow rail or an I better off just adding a kicker motor mount on the transom and mounting a transom mount trolling motor to that? I know running a trolling motor on the back of the boat is not ideal but are any others out there getting by this way?
Thanks!
Jason
saumon posted 01-05-2015 01:44 PM ET (US)
Ok, I can't tell if some of these will apply to your 1997 Outrage 20, but here's what I've done to my 1991 Outrage 17. I was in the same situation, as I want to install without having to alter the original configuration.
As I already have a Minn Kota PowerDrive 12V 55#, that's what I used, but it's at its limit in current or strong winds. Obviously, with a 20' boat, you'll need at least a 24V system.
The Minn Kota PowerDrive (or RipTide for their salwater models) series have a fairly low profile and do clear under the bow rail when deployed. You'll have to make some tests before installing it. I also use the "puck" style quick-release bracket ( part# MKA-21 for PowerDrive or RTA-19 for RipTide).
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/motor.jpg
As I don't wan't to drill ant additional holes, I choose to use the existing holes made for one of the front cleat but, on my boat, one of the problem to overcome was the raised "lip" on the gunnel.
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/cleat.jpg
I then made a riser out of 1.5" Starboard. I first made a template out of a piece of lumber then cut the Starboard to its final size, with 4 holes from the top side to secure it to the cleat holes and 4 other hole from the underside with t-nuts to secure the bracket "puck".
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/temp_riser.jpg
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/underside_riser.jpg
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/puck.jpg
Because the holes securing the riser were toward the back and the "puck" placed more toward the front, I was feared that when the long motor shaft hit something, the leverage force could pull out the screws, so I want to secure it also at the front. I then made an aluminum bracket that clamp the riser to the gunnel.
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/bracket3.jpg
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/completed.jpg
The motor is easily stored and it clear under the rail (but you have to fully retract the locking collar).
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/final_stored.jpg
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/clearance_under_rail. jpg
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/fully_deployed.jpg
As for the wiring, I installed a MKR-18 receptacle in front of the console. That way, when in use, the wires lay on the deck a bit but not that much as I run them under the cooler.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MKR-18-PLUG-AND-RECEPTACLE/
http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/TM_plug.jpg
The beauty of it all is that it take less than a minute to remove everything and put it back to the original configuration, without any more hole.

jason78 posted 01-05-2015 11:03 PM ET (US)
Thank you very much for the detailed post and pictures! This definitely looks like a solution that could work for me. Very clean mounting and looks great! I guess I need to figure out what shaft length I would need and see what the footprint of the mount would be.
saumon posted 01-05-2015 11:11 PM ET (US)
Mine's 54" and when it's set deep enough to temain in the water, even in chop, the head stay above the rail. On yours, you may need a 60"... In any cases, I'd try to "borrow" one to do some tests and see if it clear the rail when deploying it, before buying anything...
AZdave posted 01-06-2015 12:03 AM ET (US)
I installed the same trolling motor on our Montauk 170. It seems to be the best bow mount configuration. Others lift too high when deploying or retrieving, and would hit the bow rail. It works well for us, but we do not use it to troll in high winds or strong currents. If you do a search of this site you should find others who mounted this trolling motor on newer Whalers with bow rails. I also used Starboard to make a raised platform, but might choose a different material if I were to do it again. Starboard is high-density polyethylene which has a number of admirable qualities. It is often used in woodworking jigs because it is so slippery and allows the wood to slide smoothly. When used as a building material the problem is finding strong adhesives or fasteners. We simply put an extra battery in the front "anchor" locker and fed the power cord out through the cutout intended to accommodate the anchor line.
AZdave posted 01-06-2015 12:04 AM ET (US)
I installed the same trolling motor on our Montauk 170. It seems to be the best bow mount configuration. Others lift too high when deploying or retrieving, and would hit the bow rail. It works well for us, but we do not use it to troll in high winds or strong currents. If you do a search of this site you should find others who mounted this trolling motor on newer Whalers with bow rails. I also used Starboard to make a raised platform, but might choose a different material if I were to do it again. Starboard is high-density polyethylene which has a number of admirable qualities. It is often used in woodworking jigs because it is so slippery and allows the wood to slide smoothly. When used as a building material the problem is finding strong adhesives or fasteners. We simply put an extra battery in the front "anchor" locker and fed the power cord out through the cutout intended to accommodate the anchor line.

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Author	Topic: Trolling Motor Mounting Options w/Bow Rail
jason78	posted 01-04-2015 08:05 PM ET (US) After the first full year with my 1997 20 Outrage I am really liking this boat. One challenge that I am seeing is not having a trolling motor. I would say we do about 35% fishing but I sure would like to have one when I need one. So far the two challenges I see with adding a trolling motor are- 1. I have a bow rail. 2. I do not have any factory wiring provisions at the bow for a trolling motor. Wondering how others have tackled this. I have seen where people have cut a section out of the bow rail to allow the motor to fold out. I really don't want to do that. Also not sure how I would get wiring up to the bow through all the foam, other than surface mounting it from the underside of the gunwale forward and I don't want to do that anyway. So, has anyone found a bow trolling motor that is adjustable or versatile enough to clear under a bow rail or an I better off just adding a kicker motor mount on the transom and mounting a transom mount trolling motor to that? I know running a trolling motor on the back of the boat is not ideal but are any others out there getting by this way? Thanks! Jason
saumon	posted 01-05-2015 01:44 PM ET (US) Ok, I can't tell if some of these will apply to your 1997 Outrage 20, but here's what I've done to my 1991 Outrage 17. I was in the same situation, as I want to install without having to alter the original configuration. As I already have a Minn Kota PowerDrive 12V 55#, that's what I used, but it's at its limit in current or strong winds. Obviously, with a 20' boat, you'll need at least a 24V system. The Minn Kota PowerDrive (or RipTide for their salwater models) series have a fairly low profile and do clear under the bow rail when deployed. You'll have to make some tests before installing it. I also use the "puck" style quick-release bracket ( part# MKA-21 for PowerDrive or RTA-19 for RipTide). http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/motor.jpg As I don't wan't to drill ant additional holes, I choose to use the existing holes made for one of the front cleat but, on my boat, one of the problem to overcome was the raised "lip" on the gunnel. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/cleat.jpg I then made a riser out of 1.5" Starboard. I first made a template out of a piece of lumber then cut the Starboard to its final size, with 4 holes from the top side to secure it to the cleat holes and 4 other hole from the underside with t-nuts to secure the bracket "puck". http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/temp_riser.jpg http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/underside_riser.jpg http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/puck.jpg Because the holes securing the riser were toward the back and the "puck" placed more toward the front, I was feared that when the long motor shaft hit something, the leverage force could pull out the screws, so I want to secure it also at the front. I then made an aluminum bracket that clamp the riser to the gunnel. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/bracket3.jpg http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/completed.jpg The motor is easily stored and it clear under the rail (but you have to fully retract the locking collar). http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/final_stored.jpg http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/clearance_under_rail. jpg http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/fully_deployed.jpg As for the wiring, I installed a MKR-18 receptacle in front of the console. That way, when in use, the wires lay on the deck a bit but not that much as I run them under the cooler. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MKR-18-PLUG-AND-RECEPTACLE/ http://www.myfishingpictures.com/data/500/medium/TM_plug.jpg The beauty of it all is that it take less than a minute to remove everything and put it back to the original configuration, without any more hole.
jason78	posted 01-05-2015 11:03 PM ET (US) Thank you very much for the detailed post and pictures! This definitely looks like a solution that could work for me. Very clean mounting and looks great! I guess I need to figure out what shaft length I would need and see what the footprint of the mount would be.
saumon	posted 01-05-2015 11:11 PM ET (US) Mine's 54" and when it's set deep enough to temain in the water, even in chop, the head stay above the rail. On yours, you may need a 60"... In any cases, I'd try to "borrow" one to do some tests and see if it clear the rail when deploying it, before buying anything...
AZdave	posted 01-06-2015 12:03 AM ET (US) I installed the same trolling motor on our Montauk 170. It seems to be the best bow mount configuration. Others lift too high when deploying or retrieving, and would hit the bow rail. It works well for us, but we do not use it to troll in high winds or strong currents. If you do a search of this site you should find others who mounted this trolling motor on newer Whalers with bow rails. I also used Starboard to make a raised platform, but might choose a different material if I were to do it again. Starboard is high-density polyethylene which has a number of admirable qualities. It is often used in woodworking jigs because it is so slippery and allows the wood to slide smoothly. When used as a building material the problem is finding strong adhesives or fasteners. We simply put an extra battery in the front "anchor" locker and fed the power cord out through the cutout intended to accommodate the anchor line.
AZdave	posted 01-06-2015 12:04 AM ET (US) I installed the same trolling motor on our Montauk 170. It seems to be the best bow mount configuration. Others lift too high when deploying or retrieving, and would hit the bow rail. It works well for us, but we do not use it to troll in high winds or strong currents. If you do a search of this site you should find others who mounted this trolling motor on newer Whalers with bow rails. I also used Starboard to make a raised platform, but might choose a different material if I were to do it again. Starboard is high-density polyethylene which has a number of admirable qualities. It is often used in woodworking jigs because it is so slippery and allows the wood to slide smoothly. When used as a building material the problem is finding strong adhesives or fasteners. We simply put an extra battery in the front "anchor" locker and fed the power cord out through the cutout intended to accommodate the anchor line.