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Author Topic:   Working on My New 1994 OUTRAGE 21

WhalerNoobie posted 01-27-2015 10:06 AM ET (US)
I just purchased a 1994 OUTRAGE 21 that seems to be in great shape for its age and was garage-kept its entire life. The boat and its motor have 600 hours of use, all orginal. The first things I noticed were soft spots on the built-in fish boxes. I took those apart yesterday, and the wood is rotted only on the ends. Looks like it just wasn't sealed well enough. I'm in the process of cutting out wood and re-glassing.
The outboard engine is a 1994 Evinrude 200-HP Ocean Pro 90-degree. [Peak cylinder pressure] is 115-PSI [on all] cylinders. I plan on tuning up and preventive maintenance: water pump, head gaskets, spark plugs, and go from there.
The boat has hydraulic steering, which is new to me to work on. When I got the boat the steering was loose and would just keep spinning with no results. Yesterday I poured in maybe a quart [of hydraulic steering fluid]. [The helm] stared to get stiffer and more resistance but seemed to be leaking or overflow from behind steering helm in console.
[Changed topic to discuss the performance for a 1994 Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 21 with 200-HP. Please post that as a new topic in PERFORMANCE. Thank you--jimh.]
jimh posted 01-27-2015 12:04 PM ET (US)
Hydraulic steering can be troublesome with leaking fluid. It is the nature of hydraulic fluid to have very little viscosity, and the stuff will flow through the smallest openings. Because it flows so easily, it may appear to collect at a distance from the actual source of the leak. Inspect the hydraulic helm pump carefully to look for the source of the leaking fluid.
A very common place for a leak to occur in a hydraulic helm pump is the front shaft seal. For some information on the front shaft seal of a hydraulic helm pump and its service, see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/teleflexSeal.html
A hydraulic helm pump from 1994 should still be in very serviceable condition. My own boat dates from 1990, and its helm pump is in excellent shape. I don't even recall if I replaced the front shaft seal on it, or not. I did replace the seals on my 1987 boat.
There is a tendency to overfill the helm pump reservoir with fluid. On very hot days the fluid expands and will overflow at the filler. Also, if there is air in the system, it will cause fluid to burp from the lines as the air is expelled. If too much fluid is in the reservoir, it tends to come out the filler cap. Also, the filler cap should be vented (on most models). What I have found with the fill level: it takes a few weeks of use before the leak from the filler cap stops; that is when you have the level just right.
There are also some very odd helm pumps that require an external reservoir to be filled with air under pressure, and that air pressure to be maintained on the fluid. I don't know exactly how these work, but, if you have such a system, the steering wheel will just spin around without turning the engine [if there is no air pressure in the reservoir]. You have to restore pressure in the air reservoir to get the system working. Usually something like a little bicycle air pump is needed. I don't think that helms of this type were still being used in c.1994 by Boston Whaler, but I cannot say that for certain. It is something to investigate. They have been seen on some c.1980 boats.
WhalerNoobie posted 01-28-2015 06:15 AM ET (US)
Thanks Jim, nice detailed reply. The front seal seems to be the culprit and will try to change tomorrow.
Also the previous owner of the boat did not include the ice chest in front on console. It has the rubber looking molds screwed into the hull and the 31 inch cusion. Would anyone know what kind of ice chest fits into the mold? Was it custom?
Thank you
jimh posted 01-28-2015 10:13 AM ET (US)
An IGLOO-brand cooler was a common accessory. The 94-quart size was popular.
rtk posted 01-29-2015 07:23 AM ET (US)
Congrats you've purchased a great boat. I have a 1997 that I've owned since 2003. It's been a great boat.
The 94 and 128 quart IGLOO Marine coolers fit great in front of the console on the brackets. I believe Jim is correct- the 94 quart IGLOO Marine I have seems to fit best. There are plastic fittings that attach to the side of the coolers for the shock cord hold downs. That may be a whaler part- I'd check with a dealer. Get a couple pair and install them on multiple coolers if you want to swap out coolers from time to time.
Enjoy!
Rich
msirof2001 posted 01-30-2015 09:25 PM ET (US)
I have a 1995 Outrage 21, and the standard cooler that came with the boat and fits in those black molds with the bungee straps is an Igloo Marine 72. I am replacing my cooler, and I am debating [about buying a] Yeti Tundra 75. It is a little larger but is slightly narrower than the front width of the console. I might have to move the black molds. With the Yeti, there is an optional tie-down kit. The width of the 75 would provide seating for two, where the Igloo is definitely for one person only.
WhalerNoobie posted 01-31-2015 08:36 AM ET (US)
Thanks guys!
The fish boxes have rotten wood on the lids that I'm fixing. But there is also a little softness on the deck around the leaning post. Is this section plywood as well?
It's not that bad yet and can wait to replace till next year hopefully.
jimh posted 01-31-2015 12:07 PM ET (US)
The Boston Whaler boat initially used plywood as an embedded stiffener for many areas of the boat, but as production methods progressed and improved, a much wider variety of materials have been incorporated. To learn about the types of embedded reinforcement materials used in your specific model year and specific model of Boston Whaler boat, you need to obtain from Boston Whaler customer service a detailed diagram showing the placement and type of all the reinforcements. This is known as a wood location diagram or reinforcement location diagram.
WhalerNoobie posted 01-31-2015 01:50 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jim, I'll be in contact with them Monday.
Appreciate the site, full of great advice and users. I'm glad to join the fleet. Thank you
rtk posted 02-01-2015 10:20 AM ET (US)
The deck section/fuel tank cavity cover on my 1997 is a plywood core. I was able to mount my leaning post by simply using screws to fasten it to the deck.
I had to repair my front locker hatch. The fiberglass top and bottom sections of the hatch separate and the core gets wet and rots. The core between the fiberglass sections of my front hatch appeared to be balsa wood or something similar. I just wedged open the separated sections of fiberglass, scraped out the bad balsa until I hit solid wood then let it dry out for a while. Over winter in my house actually. Then I mixed up some epoxy resin and filler powder to a thick consistency. I filled the voids with the epoxy filler, clamped the sections back together and then cleaned up the excess epoxy mix before it hardened. Seems to have worked out just fine.
The wood locating diagram is an excellent suggestion. There is a mix of cores used on this boat. There is a lot of balsa core used in the main deck section and the wood locating diagram is extremely useful. I looked and I can't find mine. If I do I'll scan and email it to you.
Rich

WhalerNoobie posted 02-23-2015 04:25 PM ET (US)
*UPDATE*
Last few weeks have been long and frustrating at times but necessary.
Bought the whaler last month that had been sitting up for over a year. Cosmetically in great shape.
Hydraulic steering was leaking. Replaced front seal shaft with a -210 and new seals on the ram. Felt a little fluid yesterday on helm reservoir I'm going to keep an eye on. But not leaking nearly as bad. Might need to change the gasket or reinspect the hydraulic lines.
Fish box lids were soft and rotten. Had a fiberglass shop redo then. They feel super strong now. New wood, fiberglass, and gel coat.

Upon water testing outboard kept falling on it arse. Decided to rebuild carbs.
Ended up doing the following to outboard
rebuilt carbs
Replaced stator with new
change seals in LU.
new LU oil.
New head gaskets
Water tested again. Same scenario. By this time I had already bought 15ft of new fuel line over a week ago and finally got around to replacing it a few days ago.
Old fuel line had a multiple webbing obstructions from webbing clasping from ethanol.
Decided to go for a sea trial again. This time didn't make it out my driveway before one of my hubs separated from my axle. Bearings went out. Looked under trailer had a snapped leaf spring on opposite side.
Just ordered new hubs and leaf springs.
Don SSDD posted 02-24-2015 11:37 AM ET (US)
The joys of a used boat, but with time you will have all the problems behind you. Hopefully this is the last of your problems.
Don
WhalerNoobie posted 02-28-2015 11:06 PM ET (US)
Changed all hubs and leaf springs. Boat trailered and rode beautifully. Really happy with it now. Rides like a Cadillac.

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Author	Topic: Working on My New 1994 OUTRAGE 21
WhalerNoobie	posted 01-27-2015 10:06 AM ET (US) I just purchased a 1994 OUTRAGE 21 that seems to be in great shape for its age and was garage-kept its entire life. The boat and its motor have 600 hours of use, all orginal. The first things I noticed were soft spots on the built-in fish boxes. I took those apart yesterday, and the wood is rotted only on the ends. Looks like it just wasn't sealed well enough. I'm in the process of cutting out wood and re-glassing. The outboard engine is a 1994 Evinrude 200-HP Ocean Pro 90-degree. [Peak cylinder pressure] is 115-PSI [on all] cylinders. I plan on tuning up and preventive maintenance: water pump, head gaskets, spark plugs, and go from there. The boat has hydraulic steering, which is new to me to work on. When I got the boat the steering was loose and would just keep spinning with no results. Yesterday I poured in maybe a quart [of hydraulic steering fluid]. [The helm] stared to get stiffer and more resistance but seemed to be leaking or overflow from behind steering helm in console. [Changed topic to discuss the performance for a 1994 Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 21 with 200-HP. Please post that as a new topic in PERFORMANCE. Thank you--jimh.]
jimh	posted 01-27-2015 12:04 PM ET (US) Hydraulic steering can be troublesome with leaking fluid. It is the nature of hydraulic fluid to have very little viscosity, and the stuff will flow through the smallest openings. Because it flows so easily, it may appear to collect at a distance from the actual source of the leak. Inspect the hydraulic helm pump carefully to look for the source of the leaking fluid. A very common place for a leak to occur in a hydraulic helm pump is the front shaft seal. For some information on the front shaft seal of a hydraulic helm pump and its service, see http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/teleflexSeal.html A hydraulic helm pump from 1994 should still be in very serviceable condition. My own boat dates from 1990, and its helm pump is in excellent shape. I don't even recall if I replaced the front shaft seal on it, or not. I did replace the seals on my 1987 boat. There is a tendency to overfill the helm pump reservoir with fluid. On very hot days the fluid expands and will overflow at the filler. Also, if there is air in the system, it will cause fluid to burp from the lines as the air is expelled. If too much fluid is in the reservoir, it tends to come out the filler cap. Also, the filler cap should be vented (on most models). What I have found with the fill level: it takes a few weeks of use before the leak from the filler cap stops; that is when you have the level just right. There are also some very odd helm pumps that require an external reservoir to be filled with air under pressure, and that air pressure to be maintained on the fluid. I don't know exactly how these work, but, if you have such a system, the steering wheel will just spin around without turning the engine [if there is no air pressure in the reservoir]. You have to restore pressure in the air reservoir to get the system working. Usually something like a little bicycle air pump is needed. I don't think that helms of this type were still being used in c.1994 by Boston Whaler, but I cannot say that for certain. It is something to investigate. They have been seen on some c.1980 boats.
WhalerNoobie	posted 01-28-2015 06:15 AM ET (US) Thanks Jim, nice detailed reply. The front seal seems to be the culprit and will try to change tomorrow. Also the previous owner of the boat did not include the ice chest in front on console. It has the rubber looking molds screwed into the hull and the 31 inch cusion. Would anyone know what kind of ice chest fits into the mold? Was it custom? Thank you
jimh	posted 01-28-2015 10:13 AM ET (US) An IGLOO-brand cooler was a common accessory. The 94-quart size was popular.
rtk	posted 01-29-2015 07:23 AM ET (US) Congrats you've purchased a great boat. I have a 1997 that I've owned since 2003. It's been a great boat. The 94 and 128 quart IGLOO Marine coolers fit great in front of the console on the brackets. I believe Jim is correct- the 94 quart IGLOO Marine I have seems to fit best. There are plastic fittings that attach to the side of the coolers for the shock cord hold downs. That may be a whaler part- I'd check with a dealer. Get a couple pair and install them on multiple coolers if you want to swap out coolers from time to time. Enjoy! Rich
msirof2001	posted 01-30-2015 09:25 PM ET (US) I have a 1995 Outrage 21, and the standard cooler that came with the boat and fits in those black molds with the bungee straps is an Igloo Marine 72. I am replacing my cooler, and I am debating [about buying a] Yeti Tundra 75. It is a little larger but is slightly narrower than the front width of the console. I might have to move the black molds. With the Yeti, there is an optional tie-down kit. The width of the 75 would provide seating for two, where the Igloo is definitely for one person only.
WhalerNoobie	posted 01-31-2015 08:36 AM ET (US) Thanks guys! The fish boxes have rotten wood on the lids that I'm fixing. But there is also a little softness on the deck around the leaning post. Is this section plywood as well? It's not that bad yet and can wait to replace till next year hopefully.
jimh	posted 01-31-2015 12:07 PM ET (US) The Boston Whaler boat initially used plywood as an embedded stiffener for many areas of the boat, but as production methods progressed and improved, a much wider variety of materials have been incorporated. To learn about the types of embedded reinforcement materials used in your specific model year and specific model of Boston Whaler boat, you need to obtain from Boston Whaler customer service a detailed diagram showing the placement and type of all the reinforcements. This is known as a wood location diagram or reinforcement location diagram.
WhalerNoobie	posted 01-31-2015 01:50 PM ET (US) Thanks Jim, I'll be in contact with them Monday. Appreciate the site, full of great advice and users. I'm glad to join the fleet. Thank you
rtk	posted 02-01-2015 10:20 AM ET (US) The deck section/fuel tank cavity cover on my 1997 is a plywood core. I was able to mount my leaning post by simply using screws to fasten it to the deck. I had to repair my front locker hatch. The fiberglass top and bottom sections of the hatch separate and the core gets wet and rots. The core between the fiberglass sections of my front hatch appeared to be balsa wood or something similar. I just wedged open the separated sections of fiberglass, scraped out the bad balsa until I hit solid wood then let it dry out for a while. Over winter in my house actually. Then I mixed up some epoxy resin and filler powder to a thick consistency. I filled the voids with the epoxy filler, clamped the sections back together and then cleaned up the excess epoxy mix before it hardened. Seems to have worked out just fine. The wood locating diagram is an excellent suggestion. There is a mix of cores used on this boat. There is a lot of balsa core used in the main deck section and the wood locating diagram is extremely useful. I looked and I can't find mine. If I do I'll scan and email it to you. Rich
WhalerNoobie	posted 02-23-2015 04:25 PM ET (US) UPDATE Last few weeks have been long and frustrating at times but necessary. Bought the whaler last month that had been sitting up for over a year. Cosmetically in great shape. Hydraulic steering was leaking. Replaced front seal shaft with a -210 and new seals on the ram. Felt a little fluid yesterday on helm reservoir I'm going to keep an eye on. But not leaking nearly as bad. Might need to change the gasket or reinspect the hydraulic lines. Fish box lids were soft and rotten. Had a fiberglass shop redo then. They feel super strong now. New wood, fiberglass, and gel coat. Upon water testing outboard kept falling on it arse. Decided to rebuild carbs. Ended up doing the following to outboard rebuilt carbs Replaced stator with new change seals in LU. new LU oil. New head gaskets Water tested again. Same scenario. By this time I had already bought 15ft of new fuel line over a week ago and finally got around to replacing it a few days ago. Old fuel line had a multiple webbing obstructions from webbing clasping from ethanol. Decided to go for a sea trial again. This time didn't make it out my driveway before one of my hubs separated from my axle. Bearings went out. Looked under trailer had a snapped leaf spring on opposite side. Just ordered new hubs and leaf springs.
Don SSDD	posted 02-24-2015 11:37 AM ET (US) The joys of a used boat, but with time you will have all the problems behind you. Hopefully this is the last of your problems. Don
WhalerNoobie	posted 02-28-2015 11:06 PM ET (US) Changed all hubs and leaf springs. Boat trailered and rode beautifully. Really happy with it now. Rides like a Cadillac.