1994 Outrage 24: Movement of T-Top and Center Console

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  1994 Outrage 24: Movement of T-Top and Center Console

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   1994 Outrage 24: Movement of T-Top and Center Console

matt13moto posted 02-25-2015 08:01 PM ET (US)
I just purchased a [1994 Outrage 24] and took it out for the first time in light chop. When going over chop andsmall waves I noticed the T-Top and center console move around more than I would have expected. This is the first large whaler I have had as well as the first boat with a T-top. Is this normal? Has anyone experienced this in a [1994 Outrage 24] T-top? thanks -matt
stayinstrewn posted 02-25-2015 11:10 PM ET (US)
Does it [the center console or the T-top?] wobble a little from side to side? The typical [unclear, perhaps mean "center console"] installation has a series of wood screws going into a piece of mahogany that's bolted to the deck. If you put a proper length machine screw per your boat into the front and back on each side you'll be good. As the boat pounds and moves around, the console moves at a different rate hence it's putting a lot of strain in the wood that the console is screwed to, thus the screws begin to pullout.
Machine screws in each corner will do well by you. I did this exact repair to my [1979 OUTRAGE 22] and, voila, no more movement!
jimh posted 02-26-2015 12:17 PM ET (US)
I don't believe that in 1994 Boston Whaler was offering the option of a T-Top on their OUTRAGE 24 boat. I suspect that the T-Top on your 1994 OUTRAGE 24 was probably an aftermarket device and was installed by the owner or someone else.
The center console of a Boston Whaler boat is not normally attached to the cockpit deck in a manner that permit any movement. If the center console is loose, it has probably worked loose over the years.
The deck is typically reinforced in any area where a screw fastener will be installed. If the screw fasteners holding the console to the deck are loose, and if they are just wood screws, you should probably replace them with through-bolts and install backing plates.
As for the T-Top, if it is attached only to the center console, it has certainly added greatly to the stresses on the fasteners holding the center console to the deck. If the T-Top has been working on its fasteners, you will need to replace them with bolts, and probably install backing plates.
matt13moto posted 02-26-2015 02:25 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the replies. I will be taking the porta toilet out today so I can get down inside the console for a better look. The T-top is screwed into the floor as well as to the console. I will let you know what I find.
elvis posted 02-26-2015 07:16 PM ET (US)
Should not move. Loose screws.
dfmcintyre posted 02-26-2015 08:06 PM ET (US)
Matt--a 20-year-old boat is bound to have some loose fittings. If you determine that the mounting screws to the floor are wood, and it's mounted to the fuel tank cavity cover, while it's a pain to remove the cover, it gives you easier access to mount a metal backing plate.
Repairing a T-Top that's mounted directly to the floor, and not to the cavity cover, using wood screws is a bit more involved. Just let us know. Regards--Don
matt13moto posted 02-27-2015 01:12 AM ET (US)
I did a lot of investigating today; this is what I found: the center console and T-top are fastened with #14 sheet metal screws; there were a few loose screws but nothing major; there was no improvement after tightening. I stood behind the leaning post and grabbed the back of the T-top and pulled up and down vigorously to make it shake the way it does under way, I had a friend sit down inside the console to watch the floor. He was able to see the subfloor or removable deck section bowing up and down. I removed a couple of screws from the front of the console and front leg of the T-top, and found they were only 1-inch long. The back of the console and T-top was solid because it was fastened into the actual hull. The front, mounted into the subfloor, was allowing a lot of movement. I looked from inside the console and realized the subloor and removable deck, in the exact area that the front corners of the console and the front legs of the T-top were fastened, landed right on top of the hull. I used 2-1/2-inch #14 screws to go through the subfloor and into the hull and fasten to something solid. Once the new hardware was installed on the front corners of the console and the front legs of the T-top, the movement went away!
msirof2001 posted 02-28-2015 02:06 PM ET (US)
I just wanted to congratulate you on getting one of the classic battlewagons. I have a 95 Outrage 21 and 20 years ago, I really wanted the 24 but I was maxed out. Having the head in the CC, the deeper fish holds, and the 195G fuel tank is great. The deeper hull probably pounds less than my 21. I repowered with a Yamaha F200 XB and love it. Yours is rated to 400hp. With a pair of 200 XBs, you'd have a 600-700mi range. Good luck with it. Both of us are in the 1993-1997 line where the 21 and 24 were basically the same for those years. I have found mine to be really well built and takes just about any abuse the ocean tries to throw at me.
matt13moto posted 02-28-2015 08:55 PM ET (US)
Thanks, I have a 13 SS, and a motauk and have put them through their paces and been very impressed....I got sick of taking my montauk out in the ocean and getting the heck beat out of me when it is rough. I cannot wait to get this GIANT boat out in the ocean and see how it does.
JohnKaloper posted 03-08-2015 11:34 PM ET (US)
Whaler did offer a tee-top option on the 1994 24 Outrage. You will find a picture in the Cetecea section on a turquiose Outrage "Mumbler" with a factory Tee-Top. I too have a 1994 Outrage 24. I understand the exact [problem] your describing. In talking to Chuck Bennett at Whaler, he indicates the early 1994 24 Outrage center deck section was only fastened with 3M 5200. Later 1994 models were also fastened with screws along with 5200. Chuck had suggested jacking the deck up a bit and cleaning the old adhesive out as much as possible. Dry everything out, re-glue with 5200, and screw along the deck edges every 12-inches or so. I did this a number of years ago and have since added a tee top with no [loosening]. Good luck

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 1994 Outrage 24: Movement of T-Top and Center Console
matt13moto	posted 02-25-2015 08:01 PM ET (US) I just purchased a [1994 Outrage 24] and took it out for the first time in light chop. When going over chop andsmall waves I noticed the T-Top and center console move around more than I would have expected. This is the first large whaler I have had as well as the first boat with a T-top. Is this normal? Has anyone experienced this in a [1994 Outrage 24] T-top? thanks -matt
stayinstrewn	posted 02-25-2015 11:10 PM ET (US) Does it [the center console or the T-top?] wobble a little from side to side? The typical [unclear, perhaps mean "center console"] installation has a series of wood screws going into a piece of mahogany that's bolted to the deck. If you put a proper length machine screw per your boat into the front and back on each side you'll be good. As the boat pounds and moves around, the console moves at a different rate hence it's putting a lot of strain in the wood that the console is screwed to, thus the screws begin to pullout. Machine screws in each corner will do well by you. I did this exact repair to my [1979 OUTRAGE 22] and, voila, no more movement!
jimh	posted 02-26-2015 12:17 PM ET (US) I don't believe that in 1994 Boston Whaler was offering the option of a T-Top on their OUTRAGE 24 boat. I suspect that the T-Top on your 1994 OUTRAGE 24 was probably an aftermarket device and was installed by the owner or someone else. The center console of a Boston Whaler boat is not normally attached to the cockpit deck in a manner that permit any movement. If the center console is loose, it has probably worked loose over the years. The deck is typically reinforced in any area where a screw fastener will be installed. If the screw fasteners holding the console to the deck are loose, and if they are just wood screws, you should probably replace them with through-bolts and install backing plates. As for the T-Top, if it is attached only to the center console, it has certainly added greatly to the stresses on the fasteners holding the center console to the deck. If the T-Top has been working on its fasteners, you will need to replace them with bolts, and probably install backing plates.
matt13moto	posted 02-26-2015 02:25 PM ET (US) Thanks for the replies. I will be taking the porta toilet out today so I can get down inside the console for a better look. The T-top is screwed into the floor as well as to the console. I will let you know what I find.
elvis	posted 02-26-2015 07:16 PM ET (US) Should not move. Loose screws.
dfmcintyre	posted 02-26-2015 08:06 PM ET (US) Matt--a 20-year-old boat is bound to have some loose fittings. If you determine that the mounting screws to the floor are wood, and it's mounted to the fuel tank cavity cover, while it's a pain to remove the cover, it gives you easier access to mount a metal backing plate. Repairing a T-Top that's mounted directly to the floor, and not to the cavity cover, using wood screws is a bit more involved. Just let us know. Regards--Don
matt13moto	posted 02-27-2015 01:12 AM ET (US) I did a lot of investigating today; this is what I found: the center console and T-top are fastened with #14 sheet metal screws; there were a few loose screws but nothing major; there was no improvement after tightening. I stood behind the leaning post and grabbed the back of the T-top and pulled up and down vigorously to make it shake the way it does under way, I had a friend sit down inside the console to watch the floor. He was able to see the subfloor or removable deck section bowing up and down. I removed a couple of screws from the front of the console and front leg of the T-top, and found they were only 1-inch long. The back of the console and T-top was solid because it was fastened into the actual hull. The front, mounted into the subfloor, was allowing a lot of movement. I looked from inside the console and realized the subloor and removable deck, in the exact area that the front corners of the console and the front legs of the T-top were fastened, landed right on top of the hull. I used 2-1/2-inch #14 screws to go through the subfloor and into the hull and fasten to something solid. Once the new hardware was installed on the front corners of the console and the front legs of the T-top, the movement went away!
msirof2001	posted 02-28-2015 02:06 PM ET (US) I just wanted to congratulate you on getting one of the classic battlewagons. I have a 95 Outrage 21 and 20 years ago, I really wanted the 24 but I was maxed out. Having the head in the CC, the deeper fish holds, and the 195G fuel tank is great. The deeper hull probably pounds less than my 21. I repowered with a Yamaha F200 XB and love it. Yours is rated to 400hp. With a pair of 200 XBs, you'd have a 600-700mi range. Good luck with it. Both of us are in the 1993-1997 line where the 21 and 24 were basically the same for those years. I have found mine to be really well built and takes just about any abuse the ocean tries to throw at me.
matt13moto	posted 02-28-2015 08:55 PM ET (US) Thanks, I have a 13 SS, and a motauk and have put them through their paces and been very impressed....I got sick of taking my montauk out in the ocean and getting the heck beat out of me when it is rough. I cannot wait to get this GIANT boat out in the ocean and see how it does.
JohnKaloper	posted 03-08-2015 11:34 PM ET (US) Whaler did offer a tee-top option on the 1994 24 Outrage. You will find a picture in the Cetecea section on a turquiose Outrage "Mumbler" with a factory Tee-Top. I too have a 1994 Outrage 24. I understand the exact [problem] your describing. In talking to Chuck Bennett at Whaler, he indicates the early 1994 24 Outrage center deck section was only fastened with 3M 5200. Later 1994 models were also fastened with screws along with 5200. Chuck had suggested jacking the deck up a bit and cleaning the old adhesive out as much as possible. Dry everything out, re-glue with 5200, and screw along the deck edges every 12-inches or so. I did this a number of years ago and have since added a tee top with no [loosening]. Good luck